I'm looking for people who have done a complete Chevy drivetrain swap from a late model 4x4 Tahoe, Suburban or 1500 truck. Websites, how to's, etc.

Thanks

Its going to basically the same a J**P swap. Smaller in size than a SV engine so room isn't an issue. Go to this link for tons and tons of useful info.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/search.php. I guess what I'm saying is a complete swap is the best way to go but it wouldn't be a whole lot different than swapping it into Nissan or something else.

Aren't those Ch*vy trucks only available with IFS? That would be a huge undertaking. Not sure many would go that route. :smokin:

I find it hard to believe nothing came from the good old SEARCH








But a few things might help

Year?
1/2? are you sure?
Complete?
Like stock coils and IFS? :barf:
















:emb: :emb3:

You can search, but you ain't gonna find a solid front axle Tahoe, fer sure. :cool2:

I think he just means motor,trans, tcase which he could mate a Vortec to a700r4 and an NP208 or a 205. Or Find anything pre 88 and pull the whole shootin match.

I'm looking for people who have done a complete Chevy drivetrain swap from a late model 4x4 Tahoe, Suburban or 1500 truck. Websites, how to's, etc.
ThanksYou should check out the Binder Bulletin! They do that all the time! :D

Did a search, thank you. :flipoff2: Not much comes up at all. Did a search on the BB also, a lot came up but not what I'm looking for. I am talking about engine, trans and t/case. Fuel injected with modern electronics, why not? I thought that this board is where I could mention a Chevy swap without getting my teeth knocked in?

...I thought that this board is where I could mention a Chevy swap without getting my teeth knocked in?
It is......

When you're new, sometimes you'll get your teeth knocked in just for saying hi. They're testing the thickness of your skin. You will also gain a little more respect when you start bringing some tech TO the board, instead of just tapping it for info. If you hang in there through the 'hazing' without getting all butt-hurt, you'll see things start to turn around.

What these quick to respond knuckleheads don't know is that I've been on this board (albeit lurking) for a few years. I'm not a mechanic so I don't feel that I have alot to offer. I've got the skin to take the abuse I just want them to know that I can give it too.
Thanks for the pat on the butt though!!

I put in a 2001 Vortec 5.3 and 4L60E in my Scout II.

I am currently Looking for a 4L65E to replace the 60 when I switch to a LQ9 6.0L so I will not explode the 60.

This infomation is good for a 4.8 5.3 and 6.0L swap with an auto trans. The LS1 LS6 are the same but the intake is differant as well as other things from the trucks but are the same size blocks just lighter but will still work!


GEN III GM ENGINE SWAP INTO SCOUT II INFO
1) EXAUST You will need F-body LS-1 camero exhaust manifolds. The stock truck's will not fit the frame they kick out at the collector! I got mine for free a local shop that had thrown them in a dumpster because they said they did not need them. Check E-bay, or locally. Don't pay more than 100 bucks more like 50 bucks for both! Oh 2.5'' Back with a cross-over fwd of the transmission with flowmasters. May be 3'' all the way with a 6.0L.

2)VSS The computer needs a Vehical speed sensor (VSS) signal for shifting the 4L60E and get the motor to idle right. The stock location is in the transfer case on 4x4's. It uses the VSS for the computer and speedo. Options are the 1990 to 1991 NP241 right drop with VSS but you have to change the ring and the sensor to the late model stuff. Just make sure that VSS is at the end of what ever gear reduction you have of the engine may idle funny and the trans not shift right when in low range!

3) Fuel The engine needs 60psi give or take to run. I made a custom tank out of Aluminum for the stock scout location and used the stock gm in tank pump and sender. I had to shorten the sender float so it would fit the tank and read correctly. I wanted a little more than the stock 19 gals but the 33 gal is to big so the tank holds 25 gals. Options are a external pump mounted low on the frame rail with a return from the engine to the tank.

4) Emissions I don't run any kind of emissions on my engine. So if your state says you do than you most run cats and EGR valve. But if not than you can cap the EGR valve at the intake and exhaust and remove the valve. And not run cats or a canister for the gas tank. You most have some one remove the emissions codes in the computer or the check engine light will be on or use a program like LS1 edit to do it yourself. O2 sensors the stock truck has four two in front of the cats (you need these) and Two behind the cats (can be removed and code turned off). It just use those two behind the cat to see if the cats are working or not.

5) Cooling The stock gm rad. will not fit it's to wide. I bought a universal chevy style radiator from summit that fits the scout opening. I modified the stock truck hoses to fit the rad. There is a small hose than goes into the stock rad and is the heater for the thottle body I closed this off, for a cooler air intake. It Uses this to prevent thottle ice in cold air but round here it doesn't get that cold. Fan I use an Electric fan because I mounted the engine low and the stock gm fan is to low plus the e-fan doesn't steal horse power! I also run a trans cooler and oil cooler under the ac evap.

6) Computer and wiring I used the stock computer and modified it with LS-1 edit to work for what I needed. It's reprogramed for performance. You will have to go in to the computer and defeat the anti theft software so the engine will run in the scout. It use the stock gm ignition switch to tell if it's in the right truck or not! Not to mention the codes I turned off (bunch). Wiring I interfaced the stock gm harness to my own home made harness for the dash with auto meter gauges. I also put a check engine light (yellow LED) in the dash and put an OBD II plug under the dash so I can plug up My lap top. Options are to interface the gm harness with painless universal. I would recomend pulling all stock scout wires if the are the original old ones not worth a fire! I will try to compile a list of codes to turn off and make a harness interface guide as to what pins do what from the computer but a good shop manual for vehical the engine came from has pin connection points listed in them. Oh you must also wire the brake light switch up so the torque converter will lock and unlock. I also used the stock Gm Neutral saftey backup light switch n the trans at the shift lever.

7) Engine mounts I could not make the stock gm mounts work so I used AA univeral small block Gen I adapters and weld to the frame and adapted the AA engine mount to fit the gen III with a plate. I was to lazy to make my own mount the AA stuff is great. The Gen I motors have Three mount holes on the side of the block. The GEN III has four. I weld a steel plate to their mount and used one hole and weld the rest to the plate and drilled the other holes and bolted all four holes to the engine, GRADE 8 Metric bolts are a must. I custom made the trans mount with a hump for the front shaft.

8) Driveshafts I used JB conversion slipyoke elminator on the tranfer case I run a cv front and rear. The rear shaft will be short with out the SYE like 24 inches but I gain 6 inches in the SYE conversion. Custom shaft rear and stock 86 blazer front lengthend a little.

9) Intake I used the stock MAF sensor ands stock intake tube cut down a bit to fit the scout. As for the box mine I open to the engine bay but I am working on a box for a snorkle install!

10) Air conditioner I used the stock gm air compressor and adated it to work with the scout stuff the compressor fits with just enough room to bolt the hoses on. I had to bend the stock gm hose to the run them right than adapt them to the IH stuff with adapters. Your best bet is to use the stock gm compressor and use scout inside AC stuff to convert to AC.



http://www.onlyinascout.com/modules/gallery/albums/1973-Scout-Vortec-350/Image_181.jpg

http://www.onlyinascout.com/modules/gallery/albums/1973-Scout-Vortec-350/Image_182.jpg
LINKS
http://www.advanceadapters.com/ Engine mounts

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/index.php? Info on Gen III

http://www.coloradok5.com/jbconversionssye.shtml Np241 SYE

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/ Swap parts and wire harness

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/category.aspx?SID=1&Category_ID=53&Page=2 New Gen III engines

http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/eb040538.htm Gen III info






Thats just half of the info, I have more, and will try to answer your questions! Anything to help!

Damn!! That's what I'm talking about. I knew someone around here had done it. Are you finished with it yet? How does it work?

Thanks

I had a vortec 350 in there before it and it ran well. About 15 MPG.

I had a problem with rust Floor pans gone Cargo area gone so I am fixin it now and at the same time doing the swap. I have my tub off the frame and am powder coating the frame than Line-X the bottom and inside of the tub! So I hope to have it finished before next spring! Find a late model wrecked 2000 up 4x4 or 4x2. Get the drivtrain and sell the rest rear end transfer case etc. to recoupe cost. Unless money is of no issue than but the 6.0L 345 from Crate engine depot for 3500 bucks new! 345 horse is well under rated!

If money were no issue I'd send this thing out and get it completely redone. Oh well. Thanks for the info. I'm going to start my drivetrain search today.

Thanks