new clutch: pedal NOT returning up

[usmcdoc14]

:mad3: gotta calm down....
Ok the pedal is not returning up. It seems like the slave cylinder is too short :confused:

Can you put the release bearing 180* back wards? thats the only area i may have fucked up (and i dont mean installed backwards i mean turn it 180* around with the fork on the correct side)

or is the slave shot?


getting ready to set it on fire

[randii]

Several things return the pedal to up. There's a spring in the pedal and hangar assembly to deal with freeplay, and of course, the diaphragm. What all did you change and how confident in your bleed are you?

Tough to visualize what you're asking on the throwout bearing. The easiest mistake to make is to put the friction disk in backwards, but even then you'd have pedal.

Start with the basics -- do you have strong resistance to compress the diaphragm at the clutch fork? If yes, then look to the hydraulics. I'm tempted to suggest you look online somewhere with more Isuzu content, but I'll hold my tongue, and just suggest that you bleed the clutch lines with the truck on a sideslope (that long level hard line across the dash SUCKS to bleed any other way).

Randii

[usmcdoc14]

Several things return the pedal to up. There's a spring in the pedal and hangar assembly to deal with freeplay, and of course, the diaphragm. What all did you change and how confident in your bleed are you?

Tough to visualize what you're asking on the throwout bearing. The easiest mistake to make is to put the friction disk in backwards, but even then you'd have pedal.

Start with the basics -- do you have strong resistance to compress the diaphragm at the clutch fork? If yes, then look to the hydraulics. I'm tempted to suggest you look online somewhere with more Isuzu content, but I'll hold my tongue, and just suggest that you bleed the clutch lines with the truck on a sideslope (that long level hard line across the dash SUCKS to bleed any other way).

Randii

bleed, like bled bled bled..bled NO fawking air.

ok where the throwout bearing "clips" onto the fork i tried putting the fork under the spring one way, didnt work well, rotate the bearing 180* WHILE STILL ON THE OUTPUT SHAFT and put the fork under the springs and it was a pain but looked "right"

the slave looks to short. if i pull out the slave shaft all the way it does not look to have enuf throw to move the fork far enuf.

I would look online elsewhere but you fuckers usualy come here first :flipoff2:

[randii]

I don't think you can engage the TOB spring clip backward. Anyway, if you did, as long as it stayed engaged, everything should work well enough, as long as you also clipped it onto the fork pivot, as well/

What all did you change out? A standard clutch R&R shouldn't change clucth adjustment that far, IMHO. If you're runnig a Borg and Beck setup, then maybe?

Get a chunk of all thread and some long-thread coupler nuts and extend that slave linkage. Should take a half hour and provide more adjustability, as well. I'm not sure what you changed to alter the throw that much, but I'd try to fix it all from outside the bell, to avoid having to yank it all out for inspection. Unless you LIKE signing the purple dinosaur song...

Randii

[usmcdoc14]

wel i got a new master and slave and am putting those in and see what changes.
if nothing then i am making my own linkage and shit :laughing:

nope normal clutch change, normal isuzu 5 speed 2.6 4wd amigo :rolleyes:

[usmcdoc14]

i have no clue what it was...:mad3: :mad3: :mad3: i replaced eveything....i dont care...i will kill an asian automotive designer....
AMIGO RAGE !!!!!!!!

oh an who the fucks bright idea was to make the cotter pin that for the clutch yoke that goes to the pedal the MOST IMPOSIBLE THING IN THE WORLD to install and remove ???

I cut a hole threw the space behind my drivers side speaker to be able to even SEE IT :eek:

[Mhamari]

I had a similiar problem with my trooper when I put a new clutch, slave and master cylinder on. I found that the shaft on the new master was almost an inch shorter than the old one. I never got around to checking the slave cylinders shaft but it may be shorter also because I grind alot of gears even with it adjusted all the way out. Hopefully that helps a bit.

[usmcdoc14]

I had a similiar problem with my trooper when I put a new clutch, slave and master cylinder on. I found that the shaft on the new master was almost an inch shorter than the old one. I never got around to checking the slave cylinders shaft but it may be shorter also because I grind alot of gears even with it adjusted all the way out. Hopefully that helps a bit.

I am making an adjustable pushrod off the slave in the morning because adjusting the under dash one is RETARDED :laughing:

[randii]

oh an who the fucks bright idea was to make the cotter pin that for the clutch yoke that goes to the pedal the MOST IMPOSIBLE THING IN THE WORLD to install and remove ???
I cut a hole threw the space behind my drivers side speaker to be able to even SEE IT :eek:Interesting --- I don't have anything BEHIND my drivers side speaker? What'd you cut?
BTDT on that silly cotter pin, tho. Pretty easy to pull with a dental pick, but quite the bugger to re-install.

Randii

[CPOM]

doc you just adjust the new slave cyl pushrod to the same length as the one you pulled off. You can complain about how many 1000s of pumps it takes to bleed the isuzu clutch system but in comparison the cotterpin reallignment is easy.

[CtTrooper]

I had the same issue, but mine happened after about a year on my trooper with a new clutch. The thing would grind horribly one day, and catch too high the next. It got to the point where I had to shift it clutchless, RPM matching to get it home it was that bad.

It seems that the previous owner had taken it to a garage when the clutch was done, and they fabbed a little longer "fork" (basically a piece of band bent with a hole drilled and threaded, to make the pedal push more on the master cylinder. I just said screw it i replaced both the master & slave... after lots of bleeding and fine tuning I got it to work properly. One thing that was retarded (on the trooper) was that in order to replace the master cylinder they want you to remove the entire inner fender because it's so close haha. I just punched a hole in it using a chisel enough so I could slide the damn thing out.

I called up an Isuzu dealer and what I was told is that this is a common problem with factory replacement style clutches wherever they may come from. Also what I have heard is that if your flywheel needs to be resurfaced, or even replaced the same problem can occur with strange clutch engagement.

hope this helps.

[usmcdoc14]

randii: i just removed some "excess" plastic that was preventing me from sticking my big ass hands in there :laughing: I removed that pin by sticking a wire threw it and ripping the fucker out.

Bleeding the fucker was EASY. stick full bottle of brake fluid inverted into the master cylinder, put tubing on slave bleeder, stick tube in cup, grab cup of coffee, pump half the bottle of brake fluid threw the system, finish coffee, close bleeder :D

oh and it was new clutch, new flywheel also.

[Roxywheels]

You could always put a Toyota drivetrain in it and be done:flipoff2:J/K wish I was closer would come give you a hand.
Robert

[Ford4x4Chik27]

I'm having the same problem, bad slave and my clutch has like 20k on it. I just add fluid every 20 or so stops and once in awhile have a bubble that scares the crap out of me when I can't shift, but i'm too lazy to change it

[TroopnKS]

Hey,
I feel your pain,
Replaced the clutch in my 90 trooper this past weekend. First time I'd ever changed a clutch, took me off and on for 4 days. doesn't help that I'm still recovering from a car accident and going to the chiropractor 3 times a week.
being rear ended with a 45mph diff in a non roll caged jeep is scary as hell. needless to say my back still hurts from wrestling with the troopers tranny.

I don't have clutch pedal either. it stays on the floor, I think my prob is a bad slave. I bleed the dumb thing and it get's a little better but still won't disengace the clutch, then I move the slave out all the way by hand and it lets air in and the thing goes to mush again, Getting a new master and slave tomorrow.

Oh i'm not sure if you mentioned it, is your pedal working now with the new master and slave?

gosh, after someone else mentioned it all I can think about is, did I put that dumb clutch plate on backwards too? I need to quit working in the dark with a flashlight...

[Rude_Dog]

A sludged up or swollen hose, or junk in the slave cylinder could block the fluid return and not let the pedal rise correctly, and/or prevent the clutch from completely engaging. (Doc, I wrote about this more in your other clutch thread).