Here are a few more pics, I had the wheel, well for that matter the whole dam assembly. I chewed up a stub last weekend, didn't realize until I notice one of the caps was long gone. Grab another cap, it slid right in :eek: So while I had the front apart thought I'd take the pics.

Joe

Here is an over-head shot of the pass side, both the TRE's are the same, but the one with the link tied into has been reamed for the TRE. BTW, the links are left thread, the ones on the other side are right. Makes adjustments easy.

Another shot from the pass side.

Pic of the complete linkage

BTW the Superlift SS brake lines, are not long enough, at least not for my flexy beast. I'm going to add some hardline at the caliper (the SJ lines use a threaded block for the SS brake line / banjo bolt) The hard line will allow me to position the line away from the bump stops.

One more directly above, notice the nice Ben W arms :D and the little bit removed from the TRE to clear the tires.

Last one shows the tire clearance with the wider axle. I may have lost a little turning radius, but I can still flip-a-bitch in the street.

Cliff let me know if these pics work for you.

Joe

Why did you use two TRE's with the hole in them? Aren't they more expensive?

Originally posted by Scout Dude
Why did you use two TRE's with the hole in them? Aren't they more expensive?

That is how the kit came from B&T, I figure I'll ream the other one as well, then if I ever break one I'll have a spare ready to go, and can replace one from the auto parts store without the worry of reaming the TRE. Plus I only need two of each, rather then 2 of one, and 2 others. Oh and because it's :cool:.

Give me a bit to come up with some more reasons:flipoff2:


I just assumed that was the only 1 ton TRE with left thread available.

Joe

Originally posted by jdjanda
Here are a few more pics, I had the wheel, well for that matter the whole dam assembly. I chewed up a stub last weekend, didn't realize until I notice one of the caps was long gone. Grab another cap, it slid right in :eek: So while I had the front apart thought I'd take the pics.


Don't forget to pound a U-joint into the "chewed" stub and weld the sucker in. Makes a good trail-spare if nothing else.

Just finished welding some U-joints in place for a buddy an hour ago. :D

(knock on wood) I haven't broken a U-joint since I started welding them in place..

Those are perfect. thanks:smokin:

In case you're wondering, I wanted shots like the 2nd and 4th picture so I could tell (or get an idea of) weather (sp) my crossover set-up will work with leaf springs. It looks like I might need to shave a bit on the angled side of the mount I built.

Maybe like this, so that it doesn't hit the springs.

Cut at the PINK line:

If that doesn't work I may need to get some hy-steer arms. Arghhhh, I really don't want to go that route, since I don't have flat-top knuckles.

But if I do HAVE to do it, I know where I can get a set (or the one side) for like $50.00:beer:

Thanks again.

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
Those are perfect. thanks:smokin:

In case you're wondering, I wanted shots like the 2nd and 4th picture so I could tell (or get an idea of) weather (sp) my crossover set-up will work with leaf springs. It looks like I might need to shave a bit on the angled side of the mount I built.

Maybe like this, so that it doesn't hit the springs.

Cut at the PINK line:

What axles are you using? Rember that axle on my rig is about ~2 inches wider per side then a stock Scout II axle.

Do the hi-steer, then you can be the envy of all your buddies.

Originally posted by tsm1mt


Don't forget to pound a U-joint into the "chewed" stub and weld the sucker in. Makes a good trail-spare if nothing else.

Just finished welding some U-joints in place for a buddy an hour ago. :D

(knock on wood) I haven't broken a U-joint since I started welding them in place..

Might do that, there is no need to pound, I can pull the cap by hand. But I might try the welding trick, just weld the shit out of it all the way around.

Dam good idea :beer:

Originally posted by jdjanda


That is how the kit came from B&T, I figure I'll ream the other one as well, then if I ever break one I'll have a spare ready to go, and can replace one from the auto parts store without the worry of reaming the TRE. Plus I only need two of each, rather then 2 of one, and 2 others. Oh and because it's :cool:.

Give me a bit to come up with some more reasons:flipoff2:


I just assumed that was the only 1 ton TRE with left thread available.

Joe

ES2010L is the LH 1-ton TRE that you would use instead of the one w/ the hole in it if you so desired. And BTW, the "1-ton" TRE's are also used on the Chevy 1/2 tons and 3/4 tons. :p

Originally posted by jdjanda


What axles are you using? Rember that axle on my rig is about ~2 inches wider per side then a stock Scout II axle.

Do the hi-steer, then you can be the envy of all your buddies.

Ohhh, yours aren't FULL WIDTH? Well maybe I'll be ok then :beer: