Started building a new Toyhauler / Tow Rig [Archive]

rockcrawln

11-11-2005, 06:31 PM

We are starting out with a '99 FL106 moving van and converting it into a toy hauler / tow rig.

Truck Specs:

'99 FL 106 33k GVW
Series 50 8.5L 4 banger
307,000 Mi
295 hp / 1000 ft/lb
Air ride, AC, Cruse control/ Jake or exhaust break (coming soon)
2-100 gal diesel tanks
1-50 gal gas tank
1-16.4 gal propane tank

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=214474&stc=1&d=1131759101

Box / Toy Hauler Specs:

28' x 102" x 96"
8' x 12' Bi-fold aluminum ramp (currently being built)
~100 Gal fresh water
~40 Gal Black water
~60 Gal Grey Water

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=214475&stc=1&d=1131759101

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=214476&stc=1&d=1131759101

The truck will be fitted with a 10 kw generator, MIG welder, compressor, tool boxes, BBQ, and storage boxes along the frame rails outside.

Fully loaded we estimate the finished truck will cost between $25000 and $27000. When we are done the truck will be registered as an RV and being that we are in CA you will be able to go 65 mph and drive in the car pool lanes and get free bridge toll.

2D EDGE

11-11-2005, 06:52 PM

Looks like a good project can't wait to see the progress

KS Toy

11-11-2005, 07:37 PM

Nice. What kind of ramp set up will you have?

85blue4runner

11-11-2005, 09:19 PM

If that 8.3L motor is a Cummins ISC or CTA its an inline 6, not a 4. Also, you might want to check your torque ratings. Though it can get to that number with a little work, its not that high stock or even mildly bombed. There is also quite a disparity bt HP quoted and torque quoted and since HP is derived from torque using a simple mathematical equation, the two are inextricably linked. Cool buildup, keep us posted..

edit: might want to look into an Envirolet or similar type toilet, runs on 12v and uses little to no water. Eliminates the need for black water tank and uses less of your fresh water. Easy to service, no odor, no maint.

Po' riggity

11-11-2005, 10:09 PM

awesome project.. My dad rents budget moving trucks, and they look pretty damn close to the same as yours.. I want one. They are hella fun to drive.

Scott

willymutt

11-11-2005, 10:34 PM

I have to agree on the engine. It may be a series 55 Detroit, but that is a straight 6 and no way near 1800 torque. Hell, the new series 60 14.0l doesn't even do that. Not a bad engine though and perfect for what you are doing there. Keep the pictures coming. I want to do something like this someday too. Since I work at a dealership, I should be able to get a good deal too.

Firescooby

11-12-2005, 08:21 AM

Yeah, if it is a Series 50 Detroit the MAX torque is 1150 lbs.

Not to rain on your parade (seemed to be doing that lately), but we got 7 trucks with that motor on FL-106 chassis. That motor is a POS!! We've also got several trucks with the CAT 3126/C7 and Cummins 8.3. We've reaffirmed that bigger motors are ALWAYS better. With smaller motors, you're gonna wear it out before it's "service life" is over.

Good luck though, seem's like a nice project.

in2gpn

11-12-2005, 04:15 PM

Nic lookin rig, keep the pics coming as you progress:D

rockcrawln

11-12-2005, 04:56 PM

Nice. What kind of ramp set up will you have?

We are custom building them. They will be 8' wide and 12' long when the 2 parts are folded out or 8' x 8' and 8' x 4' when they are folded up against the back of the truck.

There are 4 box beams under each side where the tires run and then smaller boxes in the middle to support the plate that will go over the ramp. There will also be inverted angles link this /\ up the ramp where the tires run as cleats to give added traction

We have it setup so that the ramp can be down at an angle to load jeeps or out at 90* as a patio (later we will build a mesh cover to go over and around the ramp to make it into another room).

According to FL the engine can be rechipped for $400 and that motor will put out those specs currently its around 275 and 890 from what I was told. Thats just what we were told. The engine is also an I-4 not an I-6.

edit: "The proven 8.5L Detroit Diesel Series 50 engine is the 4-cylinder version of the Series 60 with the same heavyduty qualities as the larger Series 60. With a horsepower range from 250 hp to 350 hp, this is the ideal engine for applications where high torque and horsepower are demanded"
Detroit Diesel.com (http://www.detroitdiesel.com/public/brochures/6SA587.pdf)

Also, would someone please enlighten me on the equation to relate torque and HP?

NapaBavarian

11-12-2005, 07:14 PM

http://vettenet.org/torquehp.html

big94GMC

11-12-2005, 07:47 PM

Sweet undertaking, bro. Check out my thread here about what I tow with:flipoff2: I got one too! lol Good luck on the 'build, man.

willymutt

11-12-2005, 11:35 PM

Ok, I was wrong on the cylinders, but the torque is not near 1800. I could see 1100. Let me know if it is different.

Firescooby

11-12-2005, 11:50 PM

Yeah, the 50 series Detroit is 4 cylinder. The max torque is 1150, for fire and RV applications. Our trucks are 330hp/1150tq. They're good motors, but when maxed out their life goes down.

Ours are 1999, they are WEAK on takeoff (thanks EPA), but they hold their speed on hills better than the CAT C7's. Our truck has 91k miles and is at the local Detroit dealer. We kept getting check engine light, reduced power, knocking, etc. Turns out the battery in the computer went dead and ended up frying the computer. Parts cost is over $3k so far. Under powered motors and Freightliners in general aren't worth a shit for Fire apparatus!!

rockcrawln

11-13-2005, 11:32 PM

http://vettenet.org/torquehp.html

This can't be right. If it is my 350 5.7L makes more torque then the stock 8.5L Series 50 Detroit.

Yeah, the 50 series Detroit is 4 cylinder. The max torque is 1150, for fire and RV applications. Our trucks are 330hp/1150tq. They're good motors, but when maxed out their life goes down.

Ours are 1999, they are WEAK on takeoff (thanks EPA), but they hold their speed on hills better than the CAT C7's. Our truck has 91k miles and is at the local Detroit dealer. We kept getting check engine light, reduced power, knocking, etc. Turns out the battery in the computer went dead and ended up frying the computer. Parts cost is over $3k so far. Under powered motors and Freightliners in general aren't worth a shit for Fire apparatus!!

These specs sound a little more correct. The 1800 is what my dad said that the engine would put out. Even at 1150 thats more then enough for 2 jeeps and some tools in the back of the truck.

Anyone know if Jakes makes a brake for this engine or do I have to go with an exhaust brake?

Thanks

Firescooby

11-13-2005, 11:54 PM

pcorssmit

11-14-2005, 07:02 AM

Fully loaded we estimate the finished truck will cost between $25000 and $27000. When we are done the truck will be registered as an RV and being that we are in CA you will be able to go 65 mph and drive in the car pool lanes and get free bridge toll.

Cool built. Can you explain the car pool lane and free bridge toll deal for us non-Californians? And is 65 mph the max speed limit there?

Pete

pmurf1

11-14-2005, 07:02 PM

If you're looking for interior paneling, check out some of the new stuff Formica and Kemlite have. Type either into google and they'll come up. The FRP select stuff has some cool colors and patterns, but they have solids too. Stuff like that makes covering walls easy and attractive. Supposedly Lowe's can get it special order if you pick out the color you like.

88zuk

11-14-2005, 07:58 PM

Cool built. Can you explain the car pool lane and free bridge toll deal for us non-Californians? And is 65 mph the max speed limit there? Pete

in ca if its registered commercial 55 is the speed limit
if its registered as a motorhome than you can do the posted speedlimit, use the carpool lane (if you have the appropriate # of passengers) all cal toll bridges have a carpool lane and during commute hours it is free for carpoolers and motorcycles

in ca motorcycles are considered single and/or double ocupant vehicles so you are considered a carpooler even when riding alone

ramv

11-15-2005, 07:35 AM

This can't be right. If it is my 350 5.7L makes more torque then the stock 8.5L Series 50 Detroit.

Torque * RPM

Horsepower = ------------

5252

'96 Chevy Vortec 5700 @ torque peak = 335 *3000/ 5252 = 191 hp

At Hp peak 255 hp* 5252/5000 = 268 ft-lb

Looks pretty good to me. The formula is a mathematical calculation, it is always right. (I rounded on my rpms for the 350, I don't know them off the top of my head, but they are pretty close to 3 and 5k).

yager

11-15-2005, 10:19 AM

great project, here is a site i stumbled on a while ago... Not busy but TONS of great pics of a few people doing exactly what you are...

http://truckhome.com/eve/ubb.x

bigun

11-15-2005, 01:01 PM

Great site!!!

rockcrawln

11-30-2005, 07:12 PM

Heres some updated pics. We decided to go with an ventless tankless hot water heater that will be recessed into the false 2x4 wall that we built behind the cabinets. There is another set of drawers that goes to the left of the sink base that is the same size as the one to the right.

Jeffh555

12-02-2005, 06:33 PM

sweet rig, my buddy's shop just got a similar truck and i was thinking how cool of a hauler it would make

rockcrawln

12-14-2005, 05:53 PM

Here are some updated pics. We finished up the propane plumbing and most of the hot and cold water plumbing. We started running wiring for outlets / switches. The last image is of some track lighting that we picked up. We are going to try to take out the inverters and run it at 12v (the bulbs are 12v 50w)

Rough Wiring and Water Heater

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=219263&d=113460771

Rough Wiring for 110 inverted and 110 generator plugs down the side of the truck

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=219265&stc=1&d=1134608033

Propane Quick Disconnect

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=219269&stc=1&d=1134608366

12v Track Lighting (hopefully)

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=219264&stc=1&d=1134608033

pmurf1

12-14-2005, 10:31 PM

The track lights will work fine if gutted. I have some 2 and three light under cabinet lights in my Lance that I did the same thing too. The only bad thing about the halogens is they suck the power. You can get MR16 LED replacement bulbs on Ebay for about $10 apiece, just need a fixture/shade to hold them. They don't use much battery, don't produce much heat and last a long time. I have a couple of them too. Some people like the LED light, some don't though. It's just a different kind of light compared to halogens or incandecents.

Go2Guy

12-15-2005, 08:58 AM

I can get you a 4" exhaust brake from US Gear that goes/splices in the exhaust tubing itself, been running them on my Dodges for yrs. Nice project. How's it geared for OTR cruising?

rockcrawln

12-15-2005, 12:57 PM

It maxes out at about 80 or 85 which is WAY too fast for that truck. It cruses nicely at about 70. We are actually looking into a Jake setup. We have one on our 10 wheeler dump truck and it stops great. Well worth the money.

I will look into the LED MR 16 bulbs. We have 3 car batteries linked together so I am not too worried about the wattage draw. The truck has a 130A alternator on it so if we have to we can just let the truck idol in for a few minutes during the day.

James_Fendley

12-17-2005, 05:45 PM

It maxes out at about 80 or 85 which is WAY too fast for that truck. It cruses nicely at about 70. We are actually looking into a Jake setup. We have one on our 10 wheeler dump truck and it stops great.
.

You can't put a jake on that size engine. If it is running a Allison auto you can delete 6th gear in the program. You can put on a exhaust brake, that don't work that great but will make noise so you will think it's working.

When I was president of our Fire dept., I ordered 3 trucks. FLD 120SD with 435 hp with jake, FLD 120SD 460 hp with jake , FL 80 330 hp AWD with trans retarder, Damn they will stop quick.

rockcrawln

12-18-2005, 03:39 PM

You can't put a jake on that size engine. If it is running a Allison auto you can delete 6th gear in the program. You can put on a exhaust brake, that don't work that great but will make noise so you will think it's working.

When I was president of our Fire dept., I ordered 3 trucks. FLD 120SD with 435 hp with jake, FLD 120SD 460 hp with jake , FL 80 330 hp AWD with trans retarder, Damn they will stop quick.

Freightliner gave me a quote a few weeks ago for the parts to put one on. The engine is justs a series 60 minus 2 cylinders. The new setups run about $1900 if I install it which shouldn't be a problem. The tranny is a Fuller 9 speed so I can't do much there. All the literature that I have seen says that engine brakes have almost double to stoping power that an exhaust break has. As far as the noise... I really don't mind it. I drive the 10 wheeler around all day 5 days a week with the jake blaring and after a while you just learn to tune it out.
http://www.jakebrake.com/products/application-wizard/detroit_wizard2.php?manufacturer=Detroit&engine_series=Series+50&engine_model=6047GK45

brian4wd

12-18-2005, 08:45 PM

Rockcrawlin:
You can get a PACBRAKE (exhaust brake) though. However, they're not really worth the money.

Hmm, the Jacobs E-brake on my '00 CTD sure works well - especially rolling down the road at a GCVW of ~22,000 lbs with my 36ft Patio Hauler. The exhaust brake is money well spent in my case - I have 6spd stick.

Brian

Mustard Dog

12-19-2005, 09:19 AM

Nice job, need more pics:smokin:

rockcrawln

12-22-2005, 03:49 PM

I will have more pics up in a few days. We are finished up with the wiring and starting with the exterior stuff (generators, propane tank, gas tank, dry storage and water tanks)

Go2Guy

12-23-2005, 12:20 PM

Hmm, the Jacobs E-brake on my '00 CTD sure works well - especially rolling down the road at a GCVW of ~22,000 lbs with my 36ft Patio Hauler. The exhaust brake is money well spent in my case - I have 6spd stick.

Brian

Ditto, I'm betting he'd be more than happy with a good exhaust brake at 1/2 the expense, not to mentuion labor. I'll probably put one on the FL70 toter even though it can handle the 28' GN just fine.

With my Dodge I can take just about any mountain/downhill without service brakes, 10% service brakes at best- pads have about 5/16"-3/8" still on them with 70 k+ miles.

If someone had bad experience with an ex brake it might have been a bad install or automatic tranny not suited to the job.

Ken Carter / BRUISER

04-24-2006, 12:04 PM

what ever happened to this??

rockcrawln

04-24-2006, 01:17 PM

We are still working on the truck. The ramps are done and almost mounted. We are looking for fresh and grey water tanks right now. We are hoping to have it done for Memorial Weekend Hi Desert Roundup.

GoatSauce

04-25-2006, 12:38 AM

Post up some pics, man!

rockcrawln

04-25-2006, 12:51 AM

I go to school 400 miles away from where we are building it so I don't get a chance to work on it or take pics much. I am hoping to go home in 2 weeks. I will take pics then and post them.

Hammered Scout

05-16-2006, 05:43 PM

Don't know if you ever got around to those holding tanks but since your in Pomona you might wanna check out El Monte Platics. I got my Blk holding tank made there. This is where most RV oulets get there tanks, so cut out the middle man and see them. Nice crew they'll show a catalog with all the different configurations and put the tube fittings where ever you want them while you wait.

rockcrawln

05-16-2006, 05:46 PM

Thanks for the heads up. I haven't made any decisions on the tanks yet.

rockcrawln

05-17-2006, 08:15 PM

I think I will probably go with Stainless steel. I only need 3 sheets @ $220/sheet its cheaper then 2 poly tanks at $455 each.

Mud Slayer 2.0

05-19-2006, 11:45 PM

THe people demand more pictures !!!

rockcrawln

05-20-2006, 12:04 AM

I wish I was able to go home and work on it more. I HATE being stuck is F#$&ING L.A. instead of being at home at my Dads nicely setup shop. Anything in particular you want pics of? I have some older ones but nothing too current. The last time I went up I took tons of pictures and then left the damn digital camera at home.

rockcrawln

05-30-2006, 10:59 PM

Here are some updated pictures. Spent the weekend mounting the side walkin door, mounting the black water tank, and started on the 85 gal steel grey water tank.

Inside front of the truck. Left side is the shower / toilet enclosure. The upper cabinets have not been mounted.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=247704&stc=1&d=1149051816

Finished ramps. Good thing we know a good aluminum welder that works for cheap.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=247705&stc=1&d=1149051816

We used an old tank from a slide out camper that we had. It fits perfectly over the drivers side fuel tank and directly below the toilet. Best of all, if any drivers piss you off you can just reach out and open the valve. :flipoff2:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=247706&stc=1&d=1149051816

We added a 1"x1" steel bar as a header over the door to stiffen up the side of the truck above the door.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=247708&stc=1&d=1149051739

Outside of the truck with the door installed. Not too bad for $275.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=247707&stc=1&d=1149051816

Any questions?

4x4not

05-31-2006, 01:15 PM

Starting to look like a hauler! What are your plans for steps for the side door? Just a ladder style, or some kind of flip down? Oh yeah, that shower/toilet looks smaaaaaaall! :D

rockcrawln

05-31-2006, 02:25 PM

Looking at making something compact like these. Pretty simple and I think I can make them cheaper then $260.

http://www.rvlifestyles.net/Graphics/441/250/441691_folded_bad.jpg

http://www.rvlifestyles.net/Graphics/441/250/441690_silo.jpg

We will have a small foot step so we can get in and out without the stairs if we just need to jump in quickly.

As for the shitter/shower, its as big as we could make it. I am 6'7" 330lbs and I can get in, turn around and sit on the toilet without any problems. We had to keep it small to make sure we could get 2 CJ7s in it. Its a little tight but then again this isn't the presidential suite.

ScoutIITD

05-31-2006, 03:04 PM

Starting to look like a hauler! What are your plans for steps for the side door? Just a ladder style, or some kind of flip down? Oh yeah, that shower/toilet looks smaaaaaaall! :D

Echo on the small john. If you can do it do a seperate show and a dry toilet. We have a Lance 915 with a shower toilet combo wet and the shower doesn't get used much at all.

rockcrawln

05-31-2006, 04:40 PM

Well... We have 3.5' deep by 8' long for the kitchen and shower and fridge. Not much room for anything else. 2 CJ7s are about 24-25' long and the truck is almost 28' inside. If I remember right the enclosure is about 28" wide x 36" deep

Rompn

06-02-2006, 09:26 AM

Sweet project. I'm only about 30 minutes away from you too. Let me know if you ever need a hand, I'd like to see this thing in person.

rockcrawln

06-02-2006, 10:44 AM

The truck is in Woodside (Nor Cal) not Pomona. Thats why I haven't made much progress on it in the last few months.

Rompn

06-02-2006, 11:33 AM

The truck is in Woodside (Nor Cal) not Pomona. Thats why I haven't made much progress on it in the last few months.

Holy crap. Way up there? Do you drive up there every time you have to work on it or fly? Is it ever going to make it down this way?

yager

06-22-2006, 09:08 AM

looks super!!! any updates or additional pic? (web site?)

were you building a divider wall ? where will you be sleeping ?

thanks

rockcrawln

07-02-2006, 10:26 PM

There will be fold out partitions that form 2 8'X8' rooms and an 8' X 10' kitchen/ dining area. I will try to get some new pics up soon since I am now home for summer and have more time to work on the truck.

rockcrawln

07-02-2006, 10:29 PM

Holy crap. Way up there? Do you drive up there every time you have to work on it or fly? Is it ever going to make it down this way?

I always drive it only takes 5 hrs to go 400 miles. I can make it up here in the same amount of time it would take to drive to the airport, park, fly and then wait for someone to pick me up. The truck will probably be down at rocktober fest in eairly october.

Rompn

07-03-2006, 08:40 AM

I always drive it only takes 5 hrs to go 400 miles. I can make it up here in the same amount of time it would take to drive to the airport, park, fly and then wait for someone to pick me up. The truck will probably be down at rocktober fest in eairly october.

Gotcha. Let us know when you bring it down so we can check it out. :smokin:

Mud Slayer 2.0

07-04-2006, 11:08 PM

Any More pics of the progress ??

rockcrawln

07-16-2006, 12:23 PM

Sorry for the picture delay. I haven't had much time to work on the truck. Heres some pics of the ramp mounted and all the hinges finished. We are waiting on the sheetmetal order for the 186 gallon stainless steel water tank, and steel 86 gal grey water tank and 60 gal gas tank. I think we have decided to go with the yamaha EF3000ise with the Tri-fuel kit. And we will have a 22,500w generator for the welders and stuff.

Anyone want a 3000# aluminum deck Maxon lift gate in good condition? We are going to cut it off the frame so that it is complete.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=254538&d=1153074046

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=254539&d=1153074046

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=254540&d=1153074046

Advent Horizon

07-17-2006, 04:35 AM

How are you planning to lock the ramps together?

kledder

07-17-2006, 07:32 AM

Why cut the ramps off. A few years ago I rented a box truck with a lift gate and we were able to use the gate to load the jeeps in the back. Worked great. We lifted one axle at a time and drove it in. Just a thought

Kevin

yager

07-17-2006, 07:44 AM

I like the new ramp, it looks a lot lighter, and easier to load a rig.. That and you need a dump valve for your rear suspension !! :flipoff2:

Keep the pics flowing.... come on !!!

rockcrawln

07-22-2006, 11:53 AM

We are working on the dump valve right now. That picture is kind of deceiving because the shop floor is level but the ramp leading in the front door is sloped. When the air is out of the bags the rear deck is about 38" high.

As for the lift gate. It won't work with the ramp on the truck. The hinge that is welded to the truck keeps the gate from being able to tuck away. Also the beam that the gate attaches to is about 10" off the ground 10' behind the rear axle. You can see where it had been scraped pretty hard during normal driving conditions. I can just see the truck getting hung up on it going thru a sand wash or something like that. We are considering not selling the ramp though and using the pump and res for hydraulic leveling jacks and and possibly for raising and lowering the ramp.

The ramps will not "lock together". We are going to mount trailer jacks on the left side of the 8' ramp section and rubber bumpers between the 4' and 8' sections. The jacks will support the ramp when loading and unloading and then we we have it up as a "deck" out the back of the truck, a cable will run from where the jacks mount to the top of the truck and the rubber will keep the 4' section inline with the 8' section.

I will try to take some more pictures to explain what I mean.

Thanks for the input.

rockcrawln

09-11-2007, 06:06 PM

Well... after 8 months of not working on the truck I finally got a chance to get up to my parents place and worked on the truck some more. I am hoping to have the ramp mounted and functioning by this weekend. Here are some progress pictures of my dad and I taking off the lift gate and building the bumper /lift ram mounts.

Code3Response

09-12-2007, 10:06 AM

Chris

09-12-2007, 10:32 AM

Cool!I've been wantin gto get a truck type hauler for a while.

hadfield4wd

09-13-2007, 01:51 PM

Do you have a layout view?

rockcrawln

09-13-2007, 10:51 PM

rockcrawln

09-13-2007, 11:05 PM

Here are some more pics of us mounting the ramp. We are welding the upper ram mounts tomorrow morning. After that the ramp will be complete and we will be mounting the tanks so we can get it re-registered as an RV.

hadfield4wd

09-15-2007, 05:28 PM

Not sure what you mean by layout but heres a google sketch that I did.

The front left is the shower/toilet, middle has upper 43" cabinets with 60" lower cabinets and sink, right is the fridge. Then theres a 10' x 8' dining room/kitchen, and 2 8'x8' bedrooms.

Close enough. I assume the partitions are moveable to get the jeep in. Are you putting fold down bunks in the bedrooms? What are you doing for seating. standard motorhome stuff?

maveric

09-15-2007, 09:52 PM

Rockcrawlin:

Not 100% sure, but I don't believe you can get a JAKE on that motor. We have Telma driveline retarders on ours, and we checked about the jakes. You can get a PACBRAKE (exhaust brake) though. However, they're not really worth the money.

We have a 99 FL 4x4 with the 4cyl. It has an engine brake, but I haven't checked to see which brand. It has the option to select 2 or 4 cyl's. Works great when the truck is empty (700 gal water, gear, tools, 5 people, etc), not so well when it is loaded. I will have to look when I get back to the station.

rockcrawln

09-15-2007, 11:10 PM

Close enough. I assume the partitions are moveable to get the jeep in. Are you putting fold down bunks in the bedrooms? What are you doing for seating. standard motorhome stuff?

There isn't room for any people in the back when 2 jeeps are in there. We usually have a chase vehicle with other people in it so there isn't much of a need for extra seats.

As for the partitions, right now they are just curtains but eventually they will be plywood walls that fold back flat against the wall. We have the elevated aero beds to sleep on so they don't take up much room.

rockcrawln

09-25-2007, 05:29 PM

Here are a few more pics. Got the grey water tank and propane installed and bolted in. We also painted the rear and wired all the lights.

rockcrawln

12-24-2007, 10:48 AM

Finally got a chance to do some more work on the truck. Built the mounts for the small generator and for the water tank. I can't believe how nice that drill with a cobalt drill bit was. Too bad the drill costs $1200 to buy and $70/day to rent. Hopefully some day the truck will be finished.

Murfman1967

12-24-2007, 11:59 AM

Nice, those magnetic drill presses are sweet! Used one at a customers site once, it was hard not to throw it in the back of my van on the way home!

Big91RustyBucket

12-24-2007, 03:13 PM

Nice Project just saw this in the other thread.

guidolyons

12-25-2007, 08:33 PM

Cool project. That back ramp looks SLIPPERY! A little water, snow, mud, gear oil will make that ramp a skating rink. Got tread plate? Like they use on Fire trucks and abulances?

I assume you are planning on some additional support for the generator rack?

343482

rockcrawln

12-26-2007, 11:17 PM

we are going to bolt expanded metal onto the ramp for tread. As for the generator... there will be a piece of 14 ga sheet on the bottom to connect the 2 "L"s and there will be 2 3/8" rods the run vertically up to the I beams that support the box.

frontporchfab

12-27-2007, 12:35 PM

Go2Guy

12-27-2007, 01:36 PM

Smokin project! :smokin:

Make sure you conform to the FMVSS 108 for the lights. I'm not sure how many lights/reflectors you moved around, but just double check to make sure some DMV or state trooper a-hole can't find reason to write you up. I have that document if you want me to email it to you. Also, are you concerned about overloading the axle at all? I'm pretty sure that is probably a 21K lb axle. 8K worth of jeeps + 4K of chassis + the body/box (~5K?) + water tanks and furniture and gear (etc.). Granted that is a gross over-simplification, but I was just wondering if it was a factor in the design.

I'm not knocking it, just curious! Keep up the good work!

I'll take you up on the email..... Mine should be well under 30k gross, probably 28k
kpblume@cox.net

HandBuilt

12-27-2007, 05:35 PM

I'll take you up on the email..... Mine should be well under 30k gross, probably 28k
kpblume@cox.net

http://www.tc.gc.ca/roadsafety/reg/108/en/menu.htm

This is a Canadian website, but they are the same requirements...

Trust me:flipoff2:

rockcrawln

12-27-2007, 07:26 PM

Smokin project! :smokin:

Make sure you conform to the FMVSS 108 for the lights. I'm not sure how many lights/reflectors you moved around, but just double check to make sure some DMV or state trooper a-hole can't find reason to write you up. I have that document if you want me to email it to you. Also, are you concerned about overloading the axle at all? I'm pretty sure that is probably a 21K lb axle. 8K worth of jeeps + 4K of chassis + the body/box (~5K?) + water tanks and furniture and gear (etc.). Granted that is a gross over-simplification, but I was just wondering if it was a factor in the design.

I'm not knocking it, just curious! Keep up the good work!

We haven't touched any of the reflectors or lights for that reason. As for the weight the truck is rated at 32k but we have thought about putting a drop axle on the back if it ends up getting too heavy. I would love to take a look at those requirements if you want to e-mail them to me. kirkoden@gmail.com

Thanks

frontporchfab

12-28-2007, 05:08 AM

HandBuilt

12-28-2007, 04:28 PM

I like the 3-d truck models on that website. That's pretty slick. I sent you both an email with the document that I have. I also think the requirements are the same, or atleast VERY similar.

rockcrawlin, I do weight distributions on medium-duty trucks all the time at work. If you want, I can knock one out for your truck pretty quick. I just need to know the wheel base, weights of stuff, and an estimate of the distance from the rear axle (both in-front and behind). I can estimate the curb weight of the truck chassis if you don't know it.

Guys, my job is to know FMVSS / CMVSS requirements (enforcement), those 3D drawings were developed by NHTSA in the US, they were copied by us Canadians. They are 100% accurate for your application. There are some differences between CMVSS and FMVSS but nothing that applies to trucks except for daytime running lights.

If you are looking for a second opinion take some finished pics of it and I can confirm whether or not it complies. The IDs and Clearance lights at the back have to have 45 degree downward visibility, due to the ramp they may or may not meet the requirement, but I doubt a Statey would call you on it, just the Fed pricks :flipoff2::grinpimp: