GRM got me thinking about this 435/205 business, and I am really liking this idea. I am looking for the cheapest/strongest way to build my Ram with what I have at the least cost to me from this current point. The plan is: Keep the 318, but do some cheap little mods here and there. 52" Front leafs, high steer, cheap hydro-assist. inboarded stock rear springs... attempt to keep it as low as possible... drw '85 d60/spool, 14ff/detroit, 4.56 gears... 37's on H1's for the road, and local wheeling... 39.5 boggs for trips after the doubler

I know about most of that stuff. But I don't know jack about manual trannies. I had one in my K10 that is now serving as a parts vehicle for the axle swap (and other areas of the Ram), but I sucked at working on it, and it was never right. I never really tried to learn it though, and I couldn't fit my hand in there to mess with the tranny linkages.

Since then, I have matured and am now willing to learn everything, and would love to run the 435 in this rig. If I get an early 90's Dodge 435, will it have an np205 married to it already? I can postpone the doubler until later if I can get a strong pass side t-case in this rig. The 435 will make it so that the 4.56's wont seem so high with the 37's.

Hydro clutch? Will the set-up be on the 435/205 donor vehicle? Pedals, brake lights, torque converter all in the donor? I'll definitely need an ECU for Rig with nv3500 or nv4500.

Am I missing anything else? Thanks dOOds. Please flame my plans as I don't want to waste much money. I am doing this on a college budget.

*EDIT - FWIW, this is not a Daddy's money rig nor a daddy's money build-up. I don't want to seem like a rich kid with the college thing and the newer model rig. Thanks.

**EDIT - Would I be able to run a hand throttle on the stick, and be able to just stop with the brake when crawlin? I don't want to be rocking back and forth, nor do I want to replace clutches constantly.

***EDIT - Any ideas on how to go about having the same springs f/r, same length shocks f/r, same length d-shafts f/r, same anti-wrap bars f/r, etc. I am also considering another goal of having as much interchangeable spares as possible. The spring part might not be worth it.

Before I get into my explaination, let me first explain where I come off telling you to do this. My truck needed a better transfer case, front axle, and track bar solution. I had a 10 bolt, leaf springs, and a 203, so this seemed like a great idea. I scrapped it though and bought a new DD volvo instead, focusing on building my 4runner.

GRM got me thinking about this 435/205 business, and I am really liking this idea. I am looking for the cheapest/strongest way to build my Ram with what I have at the least cost to me from this current point. The plan is: Keep the 318, but do some cheap little mods here and there. 52" Front leafs, high steer, cheap hydro-assist. inboarded stock rear springs... attempt to keep it as low as possible... drw '85 d60/spool, 14ff/detroit, 4.56 gears... 37's on H1's for the road, and local wheeling... 39.5 boggs for trips after the doubler

I know about most of that stuff. But I don't know jack about manual trannies. I had one in my K10 that is now serving as a parts vehicle for the axle swap (and other areas of the Ram), but I sucked at working on it, and it was never right. I never really tried to learn it though, and I couldn't fit my hand in there to mess with the tranny linkages.

Since then, I have matured and am now willing to learn everything, and would love to run the 435 in this rig. If I get an early 90's Dodge 435, will it have an np205 married to it already? I can postpone the doubler until later if I can get a strong pass side t-case in this rig. The 435 will make it so that the 4.56's wont seem so high with the 37's.

it will probabally have a 208 attached to it. But a similar era 205 will bolt up (around $200 in good shape). I orignally said 203/205 because the botl pattern for the 203 is a race track, and the married 205 is a round pattern. So you will just be waisting money by running a 205 to begin with. if anything, run a 203, then save up for a 205. rear driveshaft is the same length on a 203/205 as a 203, so its a cheaper swap. Plus, 75-79 435's are easier to come by. Then you would only need the newer bellhousing, which I would try to snag off of a newer ram or dakota to get access to the crank position sensor.


Hydro clutch? Will the set-up be on the 435/205 donor vehicle? Pedals, brake lights, torque converter all in the donor? I'll definitely need an ECU for Rig with nv3500 or nv4500.
You have a 318, meaning you need an ECU for a manual trans ram, or dakota. Not a rig with a 4500 (360 powered). Preferabally the same year ecu too. As far as the hydro clutch, swap the entire brake pedal, clutch master assembily into place. It should bolt up.


Am I missing anything else? Thanks dOOds. Please flame my plans as I don't want to waste much money. I am doing this on a college budget.

*EDIT - FWIW, this is not a Daddy's money rig nor a daddy's money build-up. I don't want to seem like a rich kid with the college thing and the newer model rig. Thanks.

**EDIT - Would I be able to run a hand throttle on the stick, and be able to just stop with the brake when crawlin? I don't want to be rocking back and forth, nor do I want to replace clutches constantly.

You are missing the crossmember, steering parts, brake lines, etc etc etc. But you should be able to sell your old axles, trans, tc, plus parts off the chevy, and break even in this whole swap. Plus, you already have most of the expensive parts.

That is a lot more convenient. I really was dreading having to do driveshafts twice. Doing it once would make the doubler so much cheaper.

I need to start dismantling my K10 and start parting it out. Gotta fund a new project. I wonder how much I could get out of all the stuff...

TO SELL:
sm465, np205, 402 big block, 46re (rebuilt, cooler), np231-d, 1310 d-shafts, d44 (3.55’s, open), 9.25” (3.55, LS), 56” Springs, 2" Coils, 1978 K10 frame, 1980 Crossover Steering Box, Gas Tanks, 2wd Chevy Cab, 4wd Chevy Cab, Dented Chevy Step-side bed, Rusted Chevy Short-bed, Automatic Trans ECU, 6” Lift Chevy Springs, Bling Bumpers, Bling Rollbar, ’78 & ’80 Chevy Front clips, ’83 K10 (305, th350, np208, 10b’s), 15x10 MT Classic II’s (33’s attached), Full Hydro Set-up... Mostly worthless shit, but it adds up. I should get started.

TO SELL:
sm465, 150
np205, 150
402 big block 500
46re (rebuilt, cooler) 650,
np231-d 350,
1310 d-shafts $75,
d44 (3.55’s, open) 350,
9.25” (3.55, LS) $100,
56” Springs $30,
2" Coils $100,
1978 K10 frame $20 at the metal recycler,
1980 Crossover Steering Box $35,
Gas Tanks $40,
2wd Chevy Cab, 4wd Chevy Cab, Dented Chevy Step-side bed, Rusted Chevy Short-bed $40 at the metal recycler
Automatic Trans ECU $100,
6” Lift Chevy Springs $100,
Bling Bumpers $50,
Bling Rollbar $35,
’78 & ’80 Chevy Front clips $60,
’83 K10 (305, th350, np208, 10b’s) $800,
15x10 MT Classic II’s (33’s attached) $600,
Full Hydro Set-up.. $350

Thats $4685 to fund your project. You should have enough money let oevr to take it to a shop and have a cage built too!!

Oh, i fergot, you also need a tone ring for the 14 bolt to keep the engine happy. Should be able to get that off of a newer 14 bolt at the dealership, then modify the rear axle to accept the vss off of your 9.25"

well you can get a new d70 tone ring for around $50. So if I just get the carrier machined for the tone ring, and then figure out how to set up the sensors, I'm good. I'll also be learning the proper way to set-up my ring and pinion... in the 14ff.