Had the tranny rebuilt after I bought my 85 FJ60 three years ago. Since then it's been a bit notchy shifting into gears but not bad( same notchyness on my 83 Toyota 4x4 rebuilt by the same guy). Added some extra slippery in the gear oil and that helped a bit. The last couple of days the shifting has gotten progresively worse. Yesterday we went up into the National Forest for a Xmas tree and the shifting was terrible. From neutral it is very hard to get it to go into any gear with out force. Usually I can shift into a different gear and then it go right into say first gear and off I go. Now it's very hard to go into any gear at a stop and impossible to get into reverse without massive grinding. On the road it'll shift but I have to almost jam it into gear. Not nice. Doesn't seem so bad in 4-low. Clutch fluid is fine but I'm wondering if the cylinder isn't holding up the pressure when depressed? Was seeping a bit inside but no massive leak.
Any ideas boys?
Thanks a million,
Russ:cool2:

If the master is leaking down the firewall onto your floorboard then its got warn rings and needs replaced/rebuilt. But if the res is still full like you describe the problem is not in the master/slave hydrolic. It could be not pushing the clutch fork in far enough cause its out of adjustment. Some FJ60s have adjustable rod on the slave. I would start by checking this.

was the clutch replaced when the transmission was rebuilt?

are you sure you were able to bleed the clutch hydraulics well and there's no air in there at all?

i would guess that the disc has worn some over the last three years and now you need a little more travel so if you adjust the push rod on the slave, you should be good to go just like justin said.

was the clutch replaced when the transmission was rebuilt?

are you sure you were able to bleed the clutch hydraulics well and there's no air in there at all?

i would guess that the disc has worn some over the last three years and now you need a little more travel so if you adjust the push rod on the slave, you should be good to go just like justin said.
Mater was not replaced at rebuild but the slave and clutch set were. The master WAS replaced a year or so ago and I've had no problems until now. I'll look into the adjustment.
:cool2:

Does it feel like the clutch is engaging at a different point? Is it holding pressure? Is it shifting easily with the truck not running? It is possible to have a master go without spilling fluid as well. Try pumping the pedal twice quickly with the truck running. If it shifts easily then, that would be a sign of a bad master... If the clutch feels 100% normal otherwise then your fiurst guess might be right unfortunately. But I would try adjustments first to make sure something weird didn't happen and/or the master is still good. My guess is there are dozens of 4 speeds lying around nearby where you are from the millions of guys who have pulled them for other trannies. You might try looking for one here or post in the wanted section of the forums at www.ih8mud.com. I bet you can find a good used trans for less than $200...

Today while driving I had to come to a stop and couldn't shift into any gear. I had to stop the engine, shift then restart the enine. After I got home(barely) I was messing with the clutch release fork and found the slave fully extended and the fork loose inside. Moves up and down back and forth and I can hear a clip or spring sound when the fork is moved.
Soooo, I guess the tranny comes out for the fix. Yikes.
:cool2:

Sounds like the fork fell off the ball it uses for leverage. THere is a clip that holds the fork onto the ball I bet that was installed incorrectly and allowed it to come off.

The clip that holds the fork to the ball is an inferior design to begin with, and you will be amazed at how much better a new fork holds, as well as looking at the two prongs and trying to figure out how long it will take until the problem comes back again! D'oh.

Thing I REALLY don't like about these late model 60 clutches is the non-adjustable slave cylinders. Where they got off deciding that they could predict with 100% accuracy where each individual clutch would end up is beyond me!:shaking:

If I were you and I had to pull that thing apart, I would purchase an 84 or older clutch fork and slave cylinder and retrofit them to the truck so you can get a precise setting on your throwout bearing. THAT should take care of your problem once an for all.

Best.

:)

Well, well, well, well, well...
Got the word from my mechanic on the clutch whatever problem.
He determined the problem to be just a bad clutch master. Bypassing fluid.
Wow! That's good news for me. Started the fix Saturday and finished same day. I even had a spare master on hand so there was no waiting. I'll pick the beast up today and off I go. I can put a few of the allotted fix money into other repairs for the future sale. Secondary throttle diaphram is next, then the air inj. tube. Looking good for Russ.
:cool2:

[QUOTE=Russ in California Looking good for Russ.
:cool2:[/QUOTE]

You talk about your self in the 3rd person:laughing:

You talk about your self in the 3rd person:laughing:
Russ is know for that.
:cool2: