I am new to the sami club and have purchased an '88 stock soft top. I am looking to replace the stock carb and was wondering what anybody would recommend for me to purchase. I have been looking at the Solex or the Redline RGM offered at webercarbs.com. I am planning to change the exhaust and do a transfer case 4.16 gear set to run 31 inch tires. Any input would be much appreciated

I've seen some people have issues with the Weber carbs at either steep inclines or declines depending upon which direction they installed the carb. I'm not sure about some of the other carb options we have out there.

I've never had any problems with stalling out with the stock carb on there. Unless it's giving you problems I would leave the stock one in there.

Not to spam but we have made many sammy owners happy with our propane kit. It's designed just for the sammy and runs awesome. No stalling and no re-tuning. No fuel pump to go bad either. It's wierd to see the moter oil actually start to get clearer and clearer after each oil change. They cost $825 and come with everything except a forklift tank. All new and will last 20 to 30 years. I order the equipment with silicone diaphrams to make this possible.
These are done right and won't cause you to lose power. In fact we have had several customers notice an increase in power!

I've never had any problems with stalling out with the stock carb on there. Unless it's giving you problems I would leave the stock one in there.

I'll second that. If you're wheeling steep inclines, you may want to re-think the stock carb.

My vote is for sidedrafts, if you have to stick with carbs..Once setup properly they are quite nice onroad/angles whatever, just not upside down..

Later, Scott

Oh ya I have a sidedraft manifold for the 1.3/1.6 8v for sale..

I've never had any problems with stalling out with the stock carb on there. Unless it's giving you problems I would leave the stock one in there.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the input. my stock carb idles fast when hot and has no fast idle when cold. I also have a backfire problem on decel. Thats why I am looking for options.

thanks for the input. I only have a fast idle problem and back fire on decel with my stock carb. I was just checking my options

If you're having problems, then I say replace it. Unfortunately, I'm not sure what the best options is besides a stock carb. The aftermarket ones seem to have different strengths and weaknesses.

I just wish it was legal to run propane on the road. That would be the direction I would go but I still need to keep mine street legal. I already have to swap a stock geared axle in it every time I get it smogged. I'd hate to have to swap it back to gas every time also :evil:

Here in the UK there are 3 common carb swaps, Weber, good for road use & economy (there are performance downdraft types available, all suffer from stalling on inclines to a greater or lesser degree) Nikki, called the Pony carb swap in the US, good allrounder & makes better power than stock. Finally there is the SU, generally thought to be the best, fitting is more difficult as the manifold needs to be modified/adapted as it is a sidedraft carb. There are many variants HIF44 or 1 3/4" are the ones to go for. I do not know what cars will have been fitted with them in the US. Tuning is easy as there is only a needle change required & they seem a very tolerant carb. I run one on my 1600 conversion, runs at any angle, plenty of power etc.

Muddi44

I've never had any problems with stalling out with the stock carb on there. Unless it's giving you problems I would leave the stock one in there.
Thanks for the input. my stock carb idles fast when hot and has no fast idle when cold. I also have a backfire problem on decel. Thats why I am looking for options.[/QUOTE]

I recently picked up a sami with same symtoms you are describing this is what i found: As far as the fast idel the relay could be bad or stuck if there is no additional load ie: heater, lights,etc...this would be the relay on the front left side of mtr. by the timing cover, there is a hose that goes along the side of the valve cover to the diaphram on the side of the carb pull it off if the idel goes down then that relay is stuck or bad. Also look at the choke relay it might need to be adjusted. As far as the backfiring of decel after installing a new cat converter and adjusting the timing no more popping on decel. take it for what it is worth maybe you have already done all this.........:grinpimp:

If you're having problems, then I say replace it. Unfortunately, I'm not sure what the best options is besides a stock carb. The aftermarket ones seem to have different strengths and weaknesses.

I just wish it was legal to run propane on the road. That would be the direction I would go but I still need to keep mine street legal. I already have to swap a stock geared axle in it every time I get it smogged. I'd hate to have to swap it back to gas every time also :evil:

i have a couple of friends that run propane only vehicles it is an alternative fuel i was told it is ok to run on the street by local smog guy, unless it is by the county.:confused: :confused:

Apparentally all you have to do is visit a smog ref, then you don't have to ever somg the vehicle again.

DO NOT GO WEBER! I know someone with a holly and it works 100% better. I have heard of people making the mazda rotary carb fit. They say it is a flawless carb for off-roading.

thanks for the input. I only have a fast idle problem and back fire on decel with my stock carb. I was just checking my options

There are easy adjustments that you can make on the stock carb that will probably clear up these symptoms. Do you have the Factory Service Manual (FSM)? It outlines these things. Many such issues have been addressed on this and other forums. There are people hereabouts who are happy to gve advice too.

The Weber has a couple of gotchas too. I think it would be probably easier all around to just tinker with what you have, and learn a bit about it, than to jump into an entirely different set of issues.

How many miles are there on the engine, the truck, etc? If you have a fairly tired old Sammi that hasn't been cared for the very best, I think that with some TLC and info from here and the FSM, you can improve many things about your new ride.

The Weber doesn't give any real power advantage over the stock except at high rpm, and frankly, I wouldn't suggest that mod with that reason with a tired engine.

There is a simple adjustment of the carb linkage that addresses the fast idle problem. It has been the subject of a thread on here or Pirates of the Rubicon forum. It is also in the FSM. You simply bend a tab to line up with a scribed line. It has pictures.

I kinda wonder if the backfire even has anything to do with the carb. Typically it is an air leak in the exhaust. There is a decel valve (gulp valve) that can be checked. It may have something to do with the backfire.

In addition, I suggest you buy/borrow a vacuum gun and start checking all vacuum operated systems. Look for vacuum leaks. Be ready with some new vacuum line to replace bad parts.

Make sure all the vacuum lines are hooked up properly. I have some photos on flickr.com that may be of some help. Search for GeoB or Samurai.

Go through the entire vehicle, change all of the fluids. Check all of the belts. Lube. Inspect. These vehicles can be a reliable barrel of fun for years, but you will have to get acquainted with it, and tinker with it some.

Take note that the smog system is well designed. I know it pretty well, and I can't think of any part of it that I would recommend taking off. No part of it hurts your power or mileage. I have mine ALL on there and functioning and my Sammi is SO much fun. I have built up the engine (high comp pistons, porting and port-matching, 3-row rad, isky cam, K&N, DT header, large pipe, cat, muffler), tranny; changed 5th gear, t-case (4.16:1 gears) wheels/tires: 31" BFG muddies, suspension (panhard bar, super long shocks RS9000, SPOA, anti-wrap bar, custom springs, lockers front and back. Next is high steer, larger tires (32"s), new wheels. I have a roll cage waiting installation. About to rattle-can it cammo. Have some Prelude seats waiting to be installed. Ordered a kit to mount Sidekick power steering. I'll prolly do birfield rings same time. Collecting metal for a new rear bumper. I have a TBI EFI from a Sidekick I am getting ready to put on there.

I used to use a Weber. I don't have anything against it. I do feel most of us are putting too large a Weber on there for our purposes. I like the stock carb's electronic functions (like EFI) in that it dynamically changes the mixture as needed. I have had mine up at 11,700 feet altitude and it ran crisp and clean w/o loading up at all. I like the fact that the stocker is really good at running in odd pitches and angles, unlike the Weber.

Some people use a Toyota carb on there. Some folks convert to EFI. Some step back, look at the whole picture, and do an engine swap.

I have driven this as my daily driver for ten years. I don't think I have ever broken it off road. I take it to the dunes and pert near float the valves all weekend. Real abuse. Then I drive it 160 miles home again. I take it to the desert and careen around. I wheel in the sierras alla time.

Thanks. I have gone through and checked for vacuum leaks already. I did all the fluids when I got it. It runs good, exept that it has no fast idle when cold, like the choke isnt working, and then once it warms up it idles at about 1200 rpms. Other than that it wheels fine on all inclines I have had it on. I want to redue the exhaust, but don't want to spend the money until I can track down the backfire issue. It only backfires on decel under load. I don't have a service manual, but have been checking on forums for any advice I can find.

think SARGE he is the intake gurue he knows all and he will put you a pakage together that wont let you down

exept that it has no fast idle when cold

This is the linkage adjustment I mentioned

like the choke isnt working

You mean, like the traditional American Iron carb, with the fast idle canceling being done by the choke? On this carb the choke and the cold fast idle are not directly related.

and then once it warms up it idles at about 1200 rpms

There is provision for the computer to be able to kick the idle up when it needs to.. such as above 4000', or when the lights or heater are on. If for some reason this is stuck 'ON' you'd have to do a little sleuthing to determine the trouble.

IF, however, you are describing the fast idle in situations like actually BEING above 4000', or having the lights or heater on, then that adjustment is simple also. It is on the back of the carb, and takes a 12mm open-end to turn it unless you can actually turn it by hand as I can mine. I will give more details if you need em. I think I keep mine at about 1000-1100 rpm. Don't recall what the FSM calls for.

Now if it isn't stuck on fast idle, and you have too fast idle, then maybe it is the regular idle adjustment which is accessable on the passenger side of the carb, between the linkage and the throttle body, below the throttle shaft. The FSM has pictures.

And if it isn't that, maybe the throttle cable is just a tad too tight. Adjust it when warm. Give it some slack! You have gotta be able to easily deflect the cable with your finger some 1/4" or so.. don't recall specifics.

It only backfires on decel under load

Generally this is caused by sucking air in very close to the engine, like at the exhaust manifold. Forget what I said about the gulp valve. Could just be a failing gasket?