what gear ratio would be best for a DD and wheeler on 44's, right now i got the d44 and 9" soon to be d60 up front, undecided for rear axel yet. im starting the rebuild of my 78 and want to redo almost everything, im redoign the motor (that topic was already coverd) and i wanna do a exo to protect the front end mainly. also rebuilding t-case or swapping in a new one, its currently 351M/400 np435 to np205 (twin sticked). what other upgrades would you guys do to the driveline? the idea for this rig is to make it as extream at rock crawling as possible but keeping it on the road as a DD cuz i love driving it. money is tight right now but i got all the time to finish this up.

so if you got some ideas toss em out there to me so i can start this build, its my first buildup for on the rocks. i only ever build street cars before. also id like to see some exo's on some EB's or F-series if ya got em.

ill post some pics of the truck current condition tomorrow when its not dark so you all got idea of what im starting with.

5.13 gears, a dana 70u from early 80's fords will bolt in, so will sterling 10.25's from 85-97....you can fit the 44's with 6 inches of lift and a decent amount of trimming

http://www.fullsizebronco.com

been there, done that

www.extremebronco.com

If you've got a few fab skills, slap a 14bolt in the rear and be the end of it. I know that if anything much happens to my rear 60, that's what will replace it.

Personally, I recommend doing a doubler...I'm sure glad I did. You can get by with a higher gear in the axles, but still have a nice low range.

I'll also throw in that in the beginning of my build, I planned to street it. It's still plated and insured, but I won't drive it on pavement unless neccesarry. I think that you will probably find this out as you go along.

ok build ups started again, ran into some cash flow problems, but i just started ripping into the cab and found alot of bad wires under the dash. the dash is useless to me, if anyone needs a half decent dash lemme know, a lil work and itll be a keeper.

the idea is this, by summer i plan on having both batteries moved behind the cab in battery boxes bolted to the frame rails with a roll cage, tool box, fuel cell, and spare tire mount. wanna get the engin bay cleaned up and done with undercoating. new cab mounts, new cab floors, and a new custom dash with all autometer guages, dont know if ill get to the 4" lift with a 60 front yet but im working on that since i keep killing the ears on my hp 44. motor rebuild will be sometime in the spring if all goes well.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_87_full.jpg

current condition of the truck after breaking the 44 axel and havent moved it

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_88_full.jpg

the horror of wires i gotta replace (i hate wires)

i just thought of something, if i move the batteries to the rear of the truck, should i leave the selinoids up front or move then to the rear with the truck on the frame rails? i dunno what would be better, to put them in the rear or just run a 2 guage wire up to them.

That's a very nice wiring mess you have there. I had something similar under the dash of my truck when I bought it.:shaking:

My .02 on the solenoids. I would mount them down on the frame or somewhere between the batteries and starter, simply to make the wire runs shorter. A side benefit is cleaning up clutter in the engine compt.

That's a very nice wiring mess you have there. I had something similar under the dash of my truck when I bought it.:shaking:

My .02 on the solenoids. I would mount them down on the frame or somewhere between the batteries and starter, simply to make the wire runs shorter. A side benefit is cleaning up clutter in the engine compt.


yeah i think the owner before me TRIED to fix some wiring.

i think ill do that with the solenoids.


ok i was just out working on the truck and decided im not going to make a custom dash, so i simply cut and modified the stock one so the top of it doesnt stick out so far twards the driver and the bottom was moved out by 4" so instead of sitting like this \ it now sits liek this / if that makes any sence to any of you, once i finish moding the rest and making it look nice ill snap some photos.

i still need a d60 for the front axel and im having a hard time finding one, going to the junk yard sometime soon to see if i can get one with leafs and shackles all in one hit. im working on getting the 460 for it yet. a friend i know says he can get me one cheap so will see how that goes.

My battery is in the bed, but I put the solenoid up in the engine bay. It really doesn't make any difference, it's just easier for me to get at if need be. Plus, it's less likely to have something hit it on the top side of the engine bay.


I bought a power distribution block from the local marine shop. Cost about $15-20. I run the cable from the battery up and hit the block, then the cables for the winch and the solenoid off of that. It works good for my application.

My battery is in the bed. I used 0 gauge welding cable. I left the start solenoid in the stock location so it doesnt get packed with mud and what have not.

ok havent had much time to do alot of work, been sick and weathers been terrible. but with the dash out and im makign a new one the original blower motor is in the way. is there an after market or something i can buy thats smaller? i only want it to shoot onto the window for on cold days i can kaap the window clear. i dont need all those other ports, floor, panal and shit. all vacume lines were rerouted and plugged for them anyway.

Expect to pay around a GRAND for the D60.And good luck.

Expect to pay around a GRAND for the D60.And good luck.

i dunno where you get your d60's but i got one lined up for $100. unless i decide to go out and get a ready to use one

i dunno where you get your d60's but i got one lined up for $100.I'm guessing he was referring to a front 60 for $1000. If you found a HP D60 for $100, then you should go buy a lotto ticket.

well if its actually a front for 100 bucks ill give you 500 plus shipping and you can go buy the ready to use one

Yes i meant a front D60.The back isnt any stronger stock than your 9 inch and i wouldnt trust neither with 44 inch boggers.I am on the hunt for a set of front and rear D60s to trade my buddy for his rockwells:D and then I may concider running 44s I was also thinkin of trying the IROC 49s but i think i would break the rockwells.

it is a d60 front im buying for $100, im leaving my rear 9" in there cuz i got to much money sunk into it and time... as for selling it for $500 i dont think, from what im reading its worth more then that :flipoff2: unless i find a better one then ill sell ya it for $500. no more updates because ive been working on my buddies trucks in his garage (i wish i had a damn garage of my own) and now hes getting a blazer :rolleyes: that he wants to beef up...


im still stuck on the blower for the heater, i need to come up with a smaller one that will only goto the windsheild so it fits under my new dash and doesnt have all the usless ports for it (floor, panal heat. etc.)... i was also informed about this yard thats selling 460's for 95 bux so im going to check that out before i order any more parts for the 400.

i still need new doors for the truck aswell. or some custom tube doors if anyone around PA. feels like fabbing up some for me. drop me a PM

Bore the hell out of that 400 and ittl be just as tourkey as the 460.The 460 has a 4.36 inch bore and 3.85 inch stroke and your 400 has a 4 inch bore with 4 inch stroke so the stroke is allready deeper so if you do some boreing you will have close to a 460 and will prolly indup with more tourke in the end.And 460s for 95$.I would look closely and get a warrenty so if/when it turnes out that the block is cracked you can return it and just in case I would buy several an 75 a pop.Move to souuth dakota and you can use my shop.

PS neither the D60 front or the 9 inch rear will support your 44 inch boggers and a 460/4 speed/FOOT in your 6k pound truck.
PSS the 9 inch and D60 will have a missmached lug pattern...8/5 front back.

Bore the hell out of that 400 and ittl be just as tourkey as the 460.The 460 has a 4.36 inch bore and 3.85 inch stroke and your 400 has a 4 inch bore with 4 inch stroke so the stroke is allready deeper so if you do some boreing you will have close to a 460 and will prolly indup with more tourke in the end.And 460s for 95$.I would look closely and get a warrenty so if/when it turnes out that the block is cracked you can return it and just in case I would buy several an 75 a pop.Move to souuth dakota and you can use my shop.

PS neither the D60 front or the 9 inch rear will support your 44 inch boggers and a 460/4 speed/FOOT in your 6k pound truck.
PSS the 9 inch and D60 will have a missmached lug pattern...8/5 front back.


once again, your a fucking idiot:shaking:

Bore the hell out of that 400 and ittl be just as tourkey as the 460.The 460 has a 4.36 inch bore and 3.85 inch stroke and your 400 has a 4 inch bore with 4 inch stroke so the stroke is allready deeper so if you do some boreing you will have close to a 460 and will prolly indup with more tourke in the end.And 460s for 95$.I would look closely and get a warrenty so if/when it turnes out that the block is cracked you can return it and just in case I would buy several an 75 a pop.Move to souuth dakota and you can use my shop.

PS neither the D60 front or the 9 inch rear will support your 44 inch boggers and a 460/4 speed/FOOT in your 6k pound truck.
PSS the 9 inch and D60 will have a missmached lug pattern...8/5 front back.


maybe you think its a good idea to keep the 400, but its shit. i lost all respect for the 400 other then its long life ever since ive been driving my buddies 77 with a 460. dont tell me the 9" wont hold up to my rig on 44's ive seen it done. and i know you seen those pics up top. the rig is stripped. i just had it on the scale and it came out at 4700# not 6k it will have more weight when i drop the 460 in but im not worried bout it, even more when i put in the cage and new fuel cell with spare tire mount.

a warrenty at a bone yard for a 460? hahaha. around here you take chances like that. once you buy it the sales final. i dont know a single bone yard that doesnt do that.

as for the different log pattern, that doesnt bother me. im going to be swaping a 14b in sonner or later. i just gotta get my hands on one

once again, your a fucking idiot:shaking:
What do you mean?

NETBSD! In my oppinion I really do think the 9 inch will not hold up long but i wish you the best of luck.And the 400 isnt no 460 I agree but if money is tight than its not bad.The boneyard shops here will give you 30 days on a part or engine to make sure its good.Think of this if theye are selling a several hundread doller engine for 75$ whats the catch?Once again this is just my oppinion and i wish you luck.If you cant find a good 460 then come doun here and ill get you one that is good and at a reasionable price,Or i could build you one as cheap or pricy as you would like.Good luck

William.

NETBSD! In my oppinion I really do think the 9 inch will not hold up long but i wish you the best of luck.And the 400 isnt no 460 I agree but if money is tight than its not bad.The boneyard shops here will give you 30 days on a part or engine to make sure its good.Think of this if theye are selling a several hundread doller engine for 75$ whats the catch?Once again this is just my oppinion and i wish you luck.If you cant find a good 460 then come doun here and ill get you one that is good and at a reasionable price,Or i could build you one as cheap or pricy as you would like.Good luck

William.


yeah there is a chance it has a cracked block, but for $95 thats a risk im willing to take. even if the block is trash the heads are well worth it along with everything else bolted upto it if they are in decent shape. i went thru this before winter hit, i got a block and it was cracked between the pistons, thats a rist i took for $50 no real biggie. as for the 9" i dont think it will hold long but if i take it easy it will last till i get the 14b but i know for a fact the d60 will hold up longer. my buddie down the street has a chevy with 12" of lift, 14b rear 60 front and 44" boggers. of course hes pnly useing this in the mud but for that 60 holding up its rather impressive, hes got a 350 turning those tires, locked front and rear.

i appreciate the concern and all but i think this setup ill be running will hold just fine, if not then im wrong and ill be upgrading again

Go with cromo shafts in the front.Like you said your buddy has a 350.You will have some real power with a FORD 460.lol So things will be a little more stressed.

NETBSD! In my oppinion I really do think the 9 inch will not hold up long but i wish you the best of luck.And the 400 isnt no 460 I agree but if money is tight than its not bad.The boneyard shops here will give you 30 days on a part or engine to make sure its good.Think of this if theye are selling a several hundread doller engine for 75$ whats the catch?Once again this is just my oppinion and i wish you luck.If you cant find a good 460 then come doun here and ill get you one that is good and at a reasionable price,Or i could build you one as cheap or pricy as you would like.Good luck

William.
You can't form a full sentence that is even close to understandable. Therfore I don't think you should be building motors.

You can't form a full sentence that is even close to understandable. Therfore I don't think you should be building motors.

My engines allways run.

My engines allways run.
So will a chevy 350 only running on 6 cyls:flipoff2: :laughing:

ok if you 2 can stop fighting id like to update a little bit :flipoff2:

ok so i havent been able to get alot of work done on the rig since the weather is shitty and ive been working. but i did manage to pickup some nice toys for in the cab when i get the dash done.

this here is a 7 band EQ and a durabrand CD/MP3/WMA/XM radio
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_89_full.jpg


most of you guys should know what this is, its the cobra 148 GTL, this is the 96 model i got off my boss when he got his new one, still works like new tho and it was only $40
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_90_full.jpg

the rest of the truck isnt goign to well, i still need the front axel, new tires, roll cage, 9" disk conversion, new springs in the rear and a fuel cell.

i found a place here that sells sch40 1-1/4" dia for $1.45 a foot, good or bad price? i never had to buy this stuff before so i have no idea. is 1-1/4" even big enough? or should i run right out to 2" dia?

ok looked at some sch40 today, im going with 2" dia. .150mm for the cage, now i got a problem, google isnt showing me where the oil presure sending unit is, i cant locate it from under the hood, anyone got a pic or diagram of the location? would really be helpful so i can hook up this mec. guage i got from auto meter

google isnt showing me where the oil presure sending unit is, i cant locate it from under the hood,
A 400, right? The pressure sending unit will be at the back of the block on top just behind the intake manifold. You may need an oil pressure sending unit socket to get it off if space is too tight. Otherwise, if you have the room and don't care if you scar the unit up, use a set of big vice grips.

A 400, right? The pressure sending unit will be at the back of the block on top just behind the intake manifold. You may need an oil pressure sending unit socket to get it off if space is too tight. Otherwise, if you have the room and don't care if you scar the unit up, use a set of big vice grips.


yeah ive been reading on google bout it, at the back of the block where it says it will be there is nothing there, just a plug. also seen it said right between the oil filter and fuel pump at the front, but this is also just a plug. they both need alen keys to remove, this is rather confusing because the stock oil presure guage works so there has to be something somewhere sending the presure info. also they say its better to put the mechanical guage in between the fuel pump and oil filter because its a better reading, but id like to find the stock one so i can remove it.

also they say its better to put the mechanical guage in between the fuel pump and oil filter because its a better reading
I personally disagree with this approach. By putting it down near the oil filter you are only getting a pressure reading straight off the pump. Basically all that does is tell you your oil pump is working. It's a nice warm fuzzy, but not all that useful. If you plumb it to the rear of the block, you're taking a reading at the end of the oiling system. It's a much more accurate way of knowing the health of your engine's bearings and oiling system. You might try calling a few good machine shops and pick their brain on the subject.

As far as not having an existing sending unit at either location, I'm not sure what to think. I can't imagine where else someone would have put it. I suppose it's possible that someone has just grounded the wire for the sending unit giving it a full reading. That wouldn't surprise me considering the wiring mess you had to deal with. I mean it's pretty hard to miss one of these sending units sticking out of the engine in these big ol' engine compartments. I'm sure you've wore out your eyeballs searching. I'm thinking it's not there.

I personally disagree with this approach. By putting it down near the oil filter you are only getting a pressure reading straight off the pump. Basically all that does is tell you your oil pump is working. It's a nice warm fuzzy, but not all that useful. If you plumb it to the rear of the block, you're taking a reading at the end of the oiling system. It's a much more accurate way of knowing the health of your engine's bearings and oiling system. You might try calling a few good machine shops and pick their brain on the subject.

As far as not having an existing sending unit at either location, I'm not sure what to think. I can't imagine where else someone would have put it. I suppose it's possible that someone has just grounded the wire for the sending unit giving it a full reading. That wouldn't surprise me considering the wiring mess you had to deal with. I mean it's pretty hard to miss one of these sending units sticking out of the engine in these big ol' engine compartments. I'm sure you've wore out your eyeballs searching. I'm thinking it's not there.


if they grounded it, it would just stay in one position tho, it does move when im at highway speeds, this is why im so confused. i had the headers off and everything looking for this damn thing and i cant find it, so i guess ill just pull the plug at the rear and plumb it in there

if they grounded it, it would just stay in one position tho, it does move when im at highway speeds, this is why im so confused.
You're right, that's confusing.

Have you tried tracing the wiring under the hood to locate the sender? The wire for the oil sending unit comes through the firewall in the big harness on the drivers side. It goes through the GREY squarish connector with 4 wires running into it. NOT the squarish grey connector with 3 wires. This connector should have the coolant temp wire, the coil + wire, and the oil pressure wire. I don't remember what the 4th wire is. Anyways, this is how my truck is setup. But keep in mind my truck originally had a coolant gauge and an oil pressure idiot light so yours may be a little different. Although, if the wiring diagrams I used for my EFI swap were worth a damn, the wiring is the same. Hopefully nobody molested this section of your wiring.

Sorry, although my truck had a 351M in it when I got it, I don't have any 335 series engines laying around anymore or I'd look around one to see any other possible places to stick that sender.

well not much work done lately, ive been trying to find some cheap steel to box my frame with, luckly the local metal yard i deliver to has a nice scap bin with losts of steel in it they just toss out, so ive been picking at that getting sheet metal and everything for fixing this truck up, so almost all the metal im getting is free, its the roll cage tubing thats gunan kill my wallet. was cleanign up the frame a bit today and niced i crack the rear 2 crossmembers, still holding the frame together but are getting real bad so im gunna put in some of that 2" sch40 for some cross members instead, also pulled the 3rd off today and found some water in the gear oil, i think its from the vent hose coming off when i was wheeling last.

ok so i got an idea for the dash, i forget who owns this bronco and where i saw it but i really like the dash and if someone knows whos this is that can get some info on it you would be my hero
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_91_full.jpg

thats all i can think of for now, ill update this when i get some more work done

That would be the dash out of this truck - http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22366&highlight=crawler

That would be the dash out of this truck - http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22366&highlight=crawler


thats where i saw it, thanks

ok so im starting the suspention on my truck, more the rear then front right now cuz i have yet to get a d60. i need info on what your running to get 4 to 6" of lift on it, im thinking 6 is gunna be to high. i wanna do a shakle flip and get new srings cuz these f350 springs dont flex at all but its all i had laying around when i got the truck with broken springs. info+pics would be great.

Heres what I did for rear suspension on my '79 F-150 truggy build up:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Asof1-28-06003small.jpg

It might be a little drastic for what your wanting, but it for my application it turned out quite well, and provided about 7" of lift with the factory blocks, about 4" of lift after I took the blocks out. Even with the 100% factory leaf packs w/ overloads (although spring wraps were loosend), it provides over 20" of overall flex.

so i was poking around in the chevy forum for a bit yesterday at the pics and i came across this nice looking chevy im thinking of building my rear liek this but wanna know what it would be like on short street rides, i only do slow local driving so its not like ill be seeing the interstate at high speeds, the highest i go is 45mph tops

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_92_full.jpg

How exactly does that suspension work?

triangulated 4 link with 1/4 eliptic packs

I will be doing that exact suspencian on my 81 F150 Truggy with coilovers in the front and the above listed Eliptical in the back.And not much different that any other EXTREME suspencian on the road you are only using upside doun leafspring packs cut in half on one side of the center pin and a shackel at the axel.Also take some leafs out of your F350 packs to make them softer.Run 2 or 3 leafs.Make it as soft as you want.You will need the front to be about the same though.

removing leafs from the leaf pack will also lower my rig, i dont want it lowerd, im building a new suspension setup and im looking around for ideas, so far people know what i wanna do woth the pic i posted but no one can tell me how it handles? with summer right around the corner im gunn abe building this thing real fast, once we get some nice weather in its going down the bosses lot for the frame to be boxed, new suspension made, roll cage and hopefull the d60 swap along with the 460

didnt get any work done yet other then a lot of reading, i have yet to get my hands on a d60 so i think ill just beef up the hp 44 and run it till i can get a 60 for the front. i was just on the OX locker website and seen this axel seal for the 44

http://www.ox-usa.com/Portals/4/Axle%20Seal%201.jpg

anyone running these?
how well do they hold up?
do they really seal any better then stock ones?
is it actually worth $145?

so i was poking around in the chevy forum for a bit yesterday at the pics and i came across this nice looking chevy im thinking of building my rear liek this but wanna know what it would be like on short street rides, i only do slow local driving so its not like ill be seeing the interstate at high speeds, the highest i go is 45mph tops

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_92_full.jpg

those springs look really long to me in this pic.

I once built a quarter eliptic suspension that I was able to ajust the ride height. About 8" of total height ajustment. It could have been more but the guy only needed 8". It was about 4 years ago and I don't have pics of the rig. But if I have the time I will try to draw it up for you. I'm not very handy with the computer. And I built the whole suspension for about $400 in parts. Not including axle mounts.

didnt get any work done yet other then a lot of reading, i have yet to get my hands on a d60 so i think ill just beef up the hp 44 and run it till i can get a 60 for the front. i was just on the OX locker website and seen this axel seal for the 44

http://www.ox-usa.com/Portals/4/Axle%20Seal%201.jpg

anyone running these?
how well do they hold up?
do they really seal any better then stock ones?
is it actually worth $145?


dont waste your $$ on the 44 in a fullsize

dont waste your $$ on the 44 in a fullsize


this info isnt usefull to me, im trying to find out about the seal no what you think about the 44. i know what a 44 can do and im stuck with it till i find a better axel.

the seal will work great, but the broke axles inside it will get old real fast

if you know what a 44 can do, then why are you wanting to blow $$ on it??

the seal will work great, but the broke axles inside it will get old real fast

if you know what a 44 can do, then why are you wanting to blow $$ on it??


well 1. its all i got right now, 2. itll last tiull i get something stronger, 3. i can sell the 44 to my buddie when i get the new axel

its not a real waste of money when i should be able to get 75% of it back when i sell it to my buddie

http://www.ox-usa.com/Portals/4/Axle%20Seal%201.jpg

anyone running these?
how well do they hold up?
do they really seal any better then stock ones?
is it actually worth $145?
Unless I'm mistaken, those are outer tube seals meant to be used in addition to the stock inner seals. I've never used a set but I'm looking forward to when they start making these for the D60s.

In my book, they'd be worth it if they keep even half the dirt and muck out of the tubes. It's kind of tough to stab a long side shaft without rubbing it onto the grit collected inside the tubes. Cleaning out the tubes during a trail breakdown isn't always an option.
$145 vs. a complete rebuild due to grit contamination? Sounds like a good investment to me.

My .02 on using the 44.... My 44 held up fine to 36" TSLs. That's with a heavy right foot and a manual tranny. I went through a few 9"s but the 44 never had a problem. Keep in mind though, it wasn't locked.

Unless I'm mistaken, those are outer tube seals meant to be used in addition to the stock inner seals.
correct!
I've never used a set but I'm looking forward to when they start making these for the D60s.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=438115&highlight=dana+60+seals
they may be offered soon

Keep in mind though, it wasn't locked.
that makes all the difference in thh world

so i was poking around in the chevy forum for a bit yesterday at the pics and i came across this nice looking chevy im thinking of building my rear liek this but wanna know what it would be like on short street rides, i only do slow local driving so its not like ill be seeing the interstate at high speeds, the highest i go is 45mph tops

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_92_full.jpg
Got a link to where you found that?

Got a link to where you found that?


ummm in the chevy section under "Lets see your truck"

so what size tires are you planning on running on the 44/9" combo?

so what size tires are you planning on running on the 44/9" combo?

From the first sentence, of his post.

...on 44's,...

Good luck dood.:D

i second that....

44's !! ???..........:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:


:jester:

so what size tires are you planning on running on the 44/9" combo?


35" bogger till i get a 60 up front

From the first sentence, of his post.

Good luck dood


no not 44's on a d44, thats just askign for trouble, 44's were onyl going on if i had the 60 in time, for now i will run the 35's then the 44's.

so i went out to start my truck today to find the battery terminals all corroded, i guess i forgot to put grease on em when i redid the batteries, anyway finally got it going and its backfireing terrible, flexd pipe i put on it is rotten already, so i got an idea on how to fix the problem, the only reason im useing flex pipe is because the t-case x-member is in the way by mabe 1" so cant i just notch it out, or would that weaken it to much, i plan on building renforcements for the mount anyway.

ok since nobody seems to know about notching out the t-case x-member, lets see your setup with LT headers, im gunna start redoing mine in a few hours and could really use some advise, i was going to run it ontop of the x-member but the drivers side doesnt have enough room with the drive shaft, so im thinking of bending pipe to take both pipes out the passengers side, looks like there might be enough room to do so

When I did my exhaust with the LT headers I end up going under my t-case with the pipe. I didn't like the idea of doing this, but it was alot easier at the time than crossing over to passenger side of the truck. I will eventually cross it over. This set up should be fine for me, as I don't have to worry about rocks smashin into it, just mud an snow.

Here you can see how I went under the t-case - if you want a more detailed pic just let me know and I"ll go take one.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74/ramboss429/1967%20Ford%20Build/Exhaust008.jpg

When I did my exhaust with the LT headers I end up going under my t-case with the pipe. I didn't like the idea of doing this, but it was alot easier at the time than crossing over to passenger side of the truck. I will eventually cross it over. This set up should be fine for me, as I don't have to worry about rocks smashin into it, just mud an snow.

Here you can see how I went under the t-case - if you want a more detailed pic just let me know and I"ll go take one.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74/ramboss429/1967%20Ford%20Build/Exhaust008.jpg


im actually interested in alot of things on this truck, i seen it in the picks of your rigs section and fell inlove. lol. but yeah i see how you went under the t-case, thats how mine is now with flex pipe but thats rotting away every 3 month or so, so im trying to decide what route to take, if i do it like yours ill have the same problem i got now i think, the passengers side header made it under the x-member no problem but when i get any kind of fles or the motor twists just that little bit that it does, the pipe is smashing off the x-member and causing it to bend, how much clearence did you give your pipe from the x-member? im im thinking if i do go this route i could fab up a skid plate to go from front to rear of the cab no problem to protect most of my shit against rocks


EDIT: if theres any chance i can get an image of the undercarage and see how it was all routed to get a better idea, this ius something i gotta finish tonight because im due for inspection in 2 month and i barely got anything done :/

I'll go snap a few pics right now for ya. Should have 'em posted in next half hour or so.

I took a bunch of pics for ya, let me know if you need anything else. I'm going to be taking off shortly for a 3D archery Tournament this weekend, so I won't be around for a few days.

http://photobucket.com/albums/y74/ramboss429/1967%20Ford%20Build/Undercarriage/

From that link you can also go to the other pages I have made for this buildup.

perfect, but why didnt you run them both under so they looked the same? i guess it really doesnt matter tho. but its just what i needed.


anyway i was just out getting gas in my pickup and decided to take it on a hell run, so i went to this old road that we all go on and chill out at, smoked my tires to look cool cuz its 2wd atm (broken inner and outer 44 shaft), with the headers not leaking anymore and actually haveing an exhaust it has a shit load more low end then i thought id ever see outof a motor with 300+k on it. but it will be redone to perfection soon. but anyway after about 2 burnouts i hear something i never wanted to hear from my rear axel, thats right SNAP there goes my drivers side 9" axel shaft, only passengers has power now, on the good side (yes there is one to me) i can burn out for miles now without the use of a break, on the way home i had a hard time stopping the rear from spinning and getting traction.

but heres the real brainer, my trucks currently on a set of bald 33's. Since when doesnt a 9" hold up to 33's? or could it be from the cold and having my truck sitting for 3 month without any real abuse. doesnt make sence to me unless its been slowly breaking the past year cuz i was only dropping the clutch at 1,500RPM and ive done it at 4,000RPM before without it doing anything. note this is all on the street i snapped my axel

ok so after 2 hours of cutting and welding i finally got one side done, running the exhaust uner the t-case x-member on both sides and fabbing up a skid plate with enough clearence for movement. i coulda had the other side done if it wasnt so damn cold out tonight, friggen like 8* out there tonight and my hands were froze i couldnt put the finished side back on cuz i couldnt hold the bolts. didnt replace the 9" axel shaft yet so thats prolly gunna get finished tomorrow after i get more kero for the heater and time, almost 11pm here and im beat. more updates tomorrow and maybe pics of the new exhaust along with sound of the new setup if i feel like it

Fatigue of an old rear..........And you Need a HEATER :flipoff2:

:laughing: :laughing:

:jester:

Here you can see how much I cut out of my crossmember to clear my front PTO drive shaft and it never broke with front and rear locked with a 466/4 speed.

http://x11.putfile.com/12/36420372542.jpg
Apperantly I didnt take enough out because the D shaft hit the crossmember under suspencian droop and busted my 208 T case housing in half.Ran for 4 hours on the trail busted in half with no fluid before it fell out.

Here you can see how much I cut out of my crossmember to clear my front PTO drive shaft and it never broke with front and rear locked with a 466/4 speed.

http://x11.putfile.com/12/36420372542.jpg
Apperantly I didnt take enough out because the D shaft hit the crossmember under suspencian droop and busted my 208 T case housing in half.Ran for 4 hours on the trail busted in half with no fluid before it fell out.


i really didnt trust cutting the x-member, last thing i need is that snapping on me and having that t-case break. so i just did a cheap/quyick fix so i can drive to and from my garage so i can work on it, so ill be pulling the cab off hopefully by may and get the rest of my frame cleaned up and boxed then im going to make a new x-member to let the exhaust run past it

I didnt break the T case because I cut the crossmember it was something else.

well ive been doing alot of little work around the truck but nothing worth posting up, ive been looking for new 9" shafts tho and found a set for $200 at http://www.jamesduff.com/eb/warn.html

1541 Forged Alloy Ford 9" Axles with timken bearings. any info on these? cuz if i goto a junk yard and pickup a new axel i still gotta buy new bearings and those are $50 so it will be about the same price if i buy the new ones.

Come on doun here and I have a spare shaft you can have.

if your gonna spend 200 bucks...then go find a dana 70u or a sterling out of a ford for 50-100 bucks at a yard, then take the other 100 and buy two new wheels, youl never have to worry about breaking the rear again, and it will match your 60 front if your still planning on one

im just giving you advice to save time and money, because ive been down that road before

i wouldnt put money into the 9" unless you plan on running a 5 lug front for a long time

if your gonna spend 200 bucks...then go find a dana 70u or a sterling out of a ford for 50-100 bucks at a yard, then take the other 100 and buy two new wheels, youl never have to worry about breaking the rear again, and it will match your 60 front if your still planning on one

im just giving you advice to save time and money, because ive been down that road before

i wouldnt put money into the 9" unless you plan on running a 5 lug front for a long time


yeah i was thinking that but i was also thinking of doing the 9" full floater, im not really sure what way i wanna go yet, this is my first buildup and im kinda lost so the advise is welcome cuz thats why im here to get info on guys that have done this. ive heard that with the 10.25 you lose some ground clearence on the pumpkin, also im having a hard time finding a 60 front but my one buddie claims he can get me one for about $500 in decent shape but i dont got the $500 right now and i dunno if ill find another so im kinda screwd there. if you havent noticed money is tight right now so this buildup is going slower then i wanted, i doubt ill have it ready by spring unless they give me more hours at work.

whats so great about 8lug? my rig should only be about 5,500-6,000# after its all done and i dont think it would really need 8lug and i really dont feel like going any bigger then a 15" rim so no1 even sudgest it.

what about a 14 bolt? i have found one of them at the local junk yard but havent seen a 10.25 yet. toss some info at me guys :flipoff2:

14 bolts are 8 lug no?

nothing is that great about eight lug...but all dana 60 fronts are 8 l ug, so i assumed you wold want a amtching rear to go with it. Since money is tight i assumed you wouldnt want one of the bling bling $$$$$$ 5 lug 60 fronts


yea a 14 bolt would work too. any 35 spline 1.5" shafted rear will work great for you, and you should be able to get one for 100 bucks or less, like a dana 70, 14 bolt, or sterling 10.25

you can run 15" wheels lug on a 60 front, either 2.75 backspacing with no grinding, or 3.75 bs with some minro caliper grinding

im getting off topic, my point is dont waste the $$ on the 9" since money is tight

just went to the metal yard with my buddie to get rid of a shit load of steel (2ton) and i just so happend to see a 14bolt sitting there complete, so i asked the guy if hed sell it, so i got a 14bolt for $35 :flipoff2: and he is digging a dana 60 outof a pile for me for $35 aswell, he selling me them for the price of the weight so heres a :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: to all you guys that said i cant get a 14bolt/60 combo cheap, now all i gotta do is pull the 14bolt apart, clean it up and swap it in sometime in the next week or so.

what all has to be done for this to bolt up to my rig? i would imagin id need new leaf perches but im not sure. info would be great.

and whats up with the site not working half the time? or am i the only one having this problem, i posted here and the thread was still on the 2nd page

If you are gunna keep the coils in the front then you will have to gut the front axel and try and swap all the mounts to the D60.Leafs might be easier.

If you are gunna keep the coils in the front then you will have to gut the front axel and try and swap all the mounts to the D60.Leafs might be easier.


d60 isnt the problem, im running leafs in the front, the 14bolt is my worrie right now, i was rippinmg it apart last night and relized the pumpkin isnt in the middle i dunno why i didnt think of it but will this cause a problem with my driveline?

and that other part i havent looked at was the leafs perches on the 14bolt, will they line up or do i need to weld on some new ones, wouldnt be a big deal because im goign to be running a 4 link anyway so a little more work isnt a problem. just trying to figure this stuff out before i go trying to bolt it up. ill take some pics of the 14bolt when i go up and work on it tonight.


anyway last night i got it all ripped down, took and hour to get the drums off cuz its been sitting and the brake pads rusted fast to the drums, 35# hammer fixed that but also killed my backing plates :mad3: so im working on getting them stright again so i dont gotta go junk yard hoppin or goto the dealer, the 14bolt has 10 teeth on the pinion, 41 teeth on the ring so thats 4.10 IIRC. sent my spiders out to my buddies place that welds them all the time so i dont gotta mess with em.

now for the stuff i need......

i need new drums, brake, wheels, yoke, wheel bearings are shot.
so if anyone got a set of 8lug wheels sitting around that wants to trade for a shit load of 5lug ford wheels i got about 10 of em that are 15x8 all in decent shape, no dents but they need to be cleaned and painted cuz of some surface rust on them. also need some leafs for the front of my rig and a new set for the rear. im up in eastern PA if ya got any of that shit i listed and wanna get rid of em, the main part that will kill my wallet is the drums and wheels.

Well if you look closely the pinion isnt exactly in the center of your 9 inch either so no the 14bffs off center wont hurt any on the DL side of things.Pirches prolly wont line up but not 100 percent sure.Run chevy 52s up front for springs,verry flexy.

sounds like your in a good position to justify a disc brake converstion on the rear. I have a set of stock ford leafs that I'm about to throw away. But I'm in oregon. Shipping would be :eek:

sounds like your in a good position to justify a disc brake converstion on the rear. I have a set of stock ford leafs that I'm about to throw away. But I'm in oregon. Shipping would be :eek:


damn you and living so far away, i liked my stock f150 springs but they got so old they finally broke and i only had a 3/4 ton set outof a f350 and they dont flex at all. i was thinking of a disk convertion but money is tight and i think it would cost a little more then drums

Take a few of the leafs out of your 3/4 ton packs until you get the stiffness you want and BINGO you have a winner.

Take a few of the leafs out of your 3/4 ton packs until you get the stiffness you want and BINGO you have a winner.


already removed one leaf, didnt help to much and i didnt wanna make my truck sit uneven. but i guess i could try removing more and seeing how it rides then when i build my rear setup i can make it level

already removed one leaf, didnt help to much and i didnt wanna make my truck sit uneven. but i guess i could try removing more and seeing how it rides then when i build my rear setup i can make it level

oh and I have a good set of drum brakes for a 14 bolt. They came off my axle after I did my disc conversion. They to are going in the trash

I think you'd be better off doin a disc conversion on the 14 bolt if your gonna run those 44" boggers, your gonna need all the stopping power you can get. When we did the disc swap on my buddies I think it cost around $125.

oh and I have a good set of drum brakes for a 14 bolt. They came off my axle after I did my disc conversion. They to are going in the trash


damn you, new drums are $40 each at my local shop.

I think you'd be better off doin a disc conversion on the 14 bolt if your gonna run those 44" boggers, your gonna need all the stopping power you can get. When we did the disc swap on my buddies I think it cost around $125.

$125 for the whole thing or $125 per side? cuz for all the hardware to do drums again its $120 per side so $240 for all of it, so im actually looking into a disc swap.


so today i was welding up the spiders, only got one gap filled in with 12 rods and some steel i put in it to try and fill the gap. one thing i can say is these spiders are goign to be bullet proof i got thst much weld on em, by the time im done it should look like a full block of steel with 4 pins and 2 inputs for the axels. still need a set of 8 lug wheels for the 60/14b combo so start telling me you have em close to my area

Now you'll twist da shafts........:laughing:


:jester:

Now you'll twist da shafts........:laughing:


:jester:

ive noticed something about you buzz, you never say anything usefull. the last atleast 5 posts were you just being a dick or saying something completely useless, maybe its just me seeing this but its really annoying.

twisting shafts huh? well id rather a twisted shaft then a broken one, and i dont mind changing a shaft on the trail in a 14b, the 9" is the pain in the ass on the trail

well i was doign some poking around in the tech section and found the 14b disk convertion
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b%20disc%20brakes/index.html

went and priced some shit, rotors are $25 each (drums were $40 each) calapers are $15 each so already im saving alot of money, total cost is gunna be maybe $150 for both sides and thats damn good compaird to $240 for drum brakes so i think im doing that, heading to the pick-n-pull in a couple minutes to see if i cant find me a k20 and get a set of calipers cheaper then at the shop and a new 14b diff cover cuz the one i got has a dent in it and i dont like dents.

if i remember my camera tonight ill snap some pics of the 14bolt build so there is something to look at when ready my long posts :flipoff2:

twisting shafts huh? well id rather a twisted shaft then a broken one, and i dont mind changing a shaft on the trail in a 14b, the 9" is the pain in the ass on the trail


BE lucky you had a 9 inch and not something you had to dig into the carrier to remove.

And as for the leafs as long as you take the same # of leafs out of both sides then it should remain level and get thouse packs doun to like 3 or 4 leafs then sheel be back to stock 1/2 ton.

BE lucky you had a 9 inch and not something you had to dig into the carrier to remove.

And as for the leafs as long as you take the same # of leafs out of both sides then it should remain level and get thouse packs doun to like 3 or 4 leafs then sheel be back to stock 1/2 ton.


im not going to remove 1 leaf from the left and 3 front he right lol. i ment the rear will sit lower then the front if i take to many out, but ill see what happends when i do up the rear suspention

Unless you have a lot of weight in the rear then it shouldnt sag much at all.

Unless you have a lot of weight in the rear then it shouldnt sag much at all.


maybe your not looking at it like i am, my truck is level, if i remove any amount of leafs it wont sag but it will drop the height of my rig, sagging isnt a problem with no box and no weight, the ride height will change when i remove leafs because each leaf is 1" thick, so remove 3 leafs, thats 3" of lift gone. (i dunno if they really are 1" thick ium just tossing numbers to show you what i mean)

[QUOTE=Fordtrucks]...QUOTE]
You have pics of your truggy Fordtrucks?
Sorry for the hijack...
-Casey

I have pics of my truggy before the truggy modds.Why?

I have pics of my truggy before the truggy modds.Why?
Because I am making my '84 bronco into a truggy with a '82 F-150 cab... just looking for ideas. If you get some of it in the truggy state could you PM them to me?

well i found two dana 60's at my local pick-n-pull and 4 14bolts but the 60's were a passengers side drop and i need drivers side, the 14 bolts were complete with drums but i couldnt get them off, seems the shoes were rusted fast to the drums like mine was. didnt find a single 77 k20 for calipers but my other local shop sells rotors ($20 each) calipers ($16 each) and brake shoes ($20). so im prolly gunna just get them. anyone got a layout for the caliper brackets? im goign to fab up a set instead of buying them. my idea is to make em so i can just bolt em onto the original backing plate brackets.


didnt get to work on the 14bolt cuz i had a party to go on so no work on that.

what bolt pattern is on the 14bolt 3/4 ton rears? im trying to find a set of 15" rims for it but im running outa places to look. found a set ay my pick-n-pull but they were 16" rims and didnt have any back spacing, i plan on running 44's eventually so what kinda backspacing am i looking at for the d60/14b combo? also where do you guys get your wheels or if any of you have wheels i would love a set cheap or i still have 10 wheels for a ford that are 5lug 15x8

well seems no1 likes answering my questions abou the 14 bolt :flipoff2: .

anyway got the spiders put back in, all welded up and ready to see how well they hold up, all thats left to do is put the pinion back in, get dick brakes, and find a front d60 with 4.10's in it if possible. then itll be time to start working on the motor and rebuilding the cab.

dick brakes, .

LOL here comes the flaming.:flipoff2:


Most here prolly dont answer the 14b Qs because there are plenty of ford used axels out there that you could use and you are going chebby.Ask in the chevy forum for thouse Qs.The D60 should have either 3.73s or 4.10s so you should have a 50/50 chance at your 4.10s.

Good luck and we all need some visual insparition to look at here.:smokin:

Net were are you located? I have a ford d60 4.10. Im in california. 85' kingpin

Oh and dude why not just run a 70 or a Sterling? Less work for you cuz theyre gonna bolt right up. I would hunt out a 70 with a powerlock unless your gonna just put a locker in whatever you get. My sterling went in my truck in only about an hour. they are plenty strong!

you guys must not be reading my posts, i was goign to go 10.25 but when i found a 14bolt for $35 i wasnt going to turn it down when its just as strong as a 10.25, and i know alot of ford guys that run this. so flame all you want but in the end ill be the one saving money.

as for pics, i would but my cam is being a whore, ill try to get some snaps of the 14b when i go up to finish the hubs.

Fordman500 im here in PA, so i think your d60 is outa the question unless your giving me it free :flipoff2:

Oh, I read your post about the 35$ 14b but I thought you ended up not getting it. good luck finding that 60, they are out there and youll eventually find the right one!

How much for the D60 Fordman500??

How much u wanna pay me? :D My last went for 1200$. This is a kingpin dana 60, 4.10

I got a D60 for free... Don't hate me please...

well no real updates, cameras still not working so no pics :mad3: . just talked with a buddie and he got a set of 15x8 8lug wheels for my 14b he wants $125 for all 4, they were crome but someone spray painted them black so im thinking of buying them once i sell my 15x8 5luggers (i still got about 10 of em) so if anyone needs a set please let me know, im in Mount Carmel PA. i also got a thread up in the axels/tires/wheels for sale section with my axels.

for some reason everyone is telling me im a moron for welding the 14b spiders up, they said i killed the rear and itll never work, even when i show them it all works fine they still tell me it was a stupid move, but yet i found out that 3 of them went and welded their 9" spiders :shaking:

I think they may be calling you a moron cause I believe the spider gears in a 14bolt are pretty weak. That's why it's better to put in a Detroit because it eliminates the spiders.

I got a D60 for free... Don't hate me please...

I'll raise you....A HP D44, 31sp 9", NP205, C6, 351M, and a basically rust free '78 F-150 cab....for $80. It was a bitch to load on the trailer and haul off the mountian with no wheels or tires though:shaking:

that 60 is still worth more than all you got, you looking at 300 for axles, 200 for motor, 200 for tranny t-case, 10 bucks for the cab?

I got a D60 for free... Don't hate me please...


ya cant beat that, wish i could find on ebut all im finding is 60 with the passenger side drops, and i need drivers :mad3: and all these were at the local pick-n-pull, was just there yesterday and spotted 3 more, 1 outof 5 were kingpin so i sent my buddie up after em all, hopefully he can make a few bucks off em or something.

I got a free 68 F150 with no motor,It had a HP d44 front and 9 out back with a 4 speed and 2 speed T case.I traded it to a JY for a 208 T case for my ford.

no foolies, ill take some pics tonight, i just got my rotors and calipers in for the disk convertion and im goign to go work on that tonight now that i got a temp cam

ok i started on the disk convertion, sadly i didnt even finish the hubs yet so its just on there for mock up, i need seals for the hubs yet and i need to set the BL on the ring gear yet, but heres what she will look like

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_93_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_94_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_95_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_96_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_97_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_98_full.jpg

info edit: axel is rubber undercoating (4 coats) the diff cover is ford red (6 coats) the axel ends are ford red (6 coats) and the hubs will be gloss black (6 coats) has 4.11 gear ratio, rotors and calipers are from a 77 K20 3/4 ton 4x4 (got the info from the tech page) it was $39.95 a rotor and $17.95 a caliper, $20 for brake shoes and $0.00 for the caliper brakets (home brew). bash away kids cuz i know someone is gunna bitch bout me putting this in my ford or a chevy guy will bitch bout it being ford red :flipoff:

I think ford/dana made enough axel choices that you DIDNT have to use a chevy axel in a ford,but looks good mann.Love the red too.

I think ford/dana made enough axel choices that you DIDNT have to use a chevy axel in a ford,but looks good mann.Love the red too.


well the reason i got the 14b is i found it cheap, for $35 a think alot of guys would do it over a 9". but thats for the comments

I can understand wanting to save cash. If it wasn't for the sweet deal I got on my Sterling along with a bunch of other drive train parts, I probably would have looked hard at the 14b option.

I think the Ford red on a Corporate 14b kick ass.:cool2:

You said homebrew caliper brakets. You have any pis of those?

What are you gonna do for an e-brake?

I can understand wanting to save cash. If it wasn't for the sweet deal I got on my Sterling along with a bunch of other drive train parts, I probably would have looked hard at the 14b option.

I think the Ford red on a Corporate 14b kick ass.:cool2:

You said homebrew caliper brakets. You have any pis of those?

What are you gonna do for an e-brake?


no pics of the brakets yet, as for e-brake im going to run a rotor up on the d-shaft by the t-cae, well actually on the yoke and run a caliper with a e-brake cable, this will happen when i pull the cab off the truck to redo cab mounts and roll cage, once i finish both caliper brakets ill post some pics up... but yeah the 10.25 was my first choice but when i saw the complete 14b and the guy said i only had to pay it by weight i jumped on it, 350# rear at $35 was a damn nice deal. now if i can get a d60 at the same place... oh btw every GM logo on the rear was removed :flipoff2:

Fordteen bolt:smokin:

how strong would a beefed up HP44 be, im actually considering putting 8 lug ends on to match the 14b and some ni9ce shafts to hold up cuz i still cant find a nice d60 for the right price. so im thinking of bracing the hell outof my hp44 and running the full circle clips on the joints

ok ran into some more setbacks, i was under the cab today checking things out to see how much work i have once i pull off the cab to replace cab mounts and it doesnt look to good under there, so im thinking of replacing the body with a newer style. anyone know what years will bolt on easy? mainly cab mounts to frame mounts and tranny are my big concern, also will the 80's syle cover the front end? from look sit looks like it might but im not sure, be better if someone has actually done this cuz i can pickup a 82 body style rather cheap that is in decent shape

'79 will the easiest direct bolt in cab. The '82 cab will bolt on, but more than likely you are going to have to move the cab mounts, radiator supports, etc.

yeah i knwo a 79 is like a direct bolt on, but thats the problem, finding a 79 sround here is really hard that doesnt need as much work as my 78, so i got 2 choices, swap a 80's cab or swapping my new axels and motor in the 80's truck. it really depends if i get the frame with the cab and box or not, just looking for guys that have done this, and info on making cab mounts would be great. just toss some shit my way cuz im really getting pissed with this truck and all the problems im running into

IF you having all these problems with wiring, etc with your truck just swap the running gear over onto a newwer truck and you'll be good to go. Torch out the TTB crap and fab up new hangers/etc for the solid axle an go from there.

IF you having all these problems with wiring, etc with your truck just swap the running gear over onto a newwer truck and you'll be good to go. Torch out the TTB crap and fab up new hangers/etc for the solid axle an go from there.


it wont be a 78 then :flipoff2: my goal is to try and keep the 78 frame if possible cuz i got alot of work into it. and in the long run i think rewiring my current one and dropping a new body on will be alot cheaper and easier then fabbing up a 80's frame for my setup

well i just got some news, my boss found a complete pickup for free from a friend, no idea what year or condition but im told it has no title, just a bill of sales. so my question is if i buy the truck and swap the cab on my truck what vin would i use for registaration and inspection? would i have to use the cabs vin or the frames vin? and would it still be classified as a 78 f150? im told the title to the truck was lost in a house fire so if i have to im sure i can file for lost title and get it sorted out or find out its really stollen and have it taken away. but whats the story on cab swaps in PA? i really dont feel like getting new plates and tags anbd all that just cuz i swapped the body....

well im heading out to look at it in 15 minutes to see if its even worth it, some info would be nice by then but either way im taking it for axels and parts, kinda crossing my fingers it got a 60 front and the guy dunno what he got :grinpimp:

Well what did you get?

got a 82 f150 with what i think is a d60 SF rear, 2wd :mad3: but has a running 300 with a 4 speed tranny mated to it, box is like brand new and i got it all for $1. now to figure out what to do with the rear, tranny, and 300, doubt id ever use it cuz im not about to swap the 300 inplace of my 400 if anything a 460 will be replacing that. so basicly i got the truck for only the box and tyo probly sell the rest cuz i cant use the cab due to the title being lost and i dont feel like filing for a lost title and shit, so ill have a 78 cab and a 82 box :shaking:

Should be a 9 inch rear only.?????

Should be a 9 inch rear only.?????


no, that was real easy to tell by it not hasving the removeable 3rd and it being 8 lug

I wasnt trying to insult you.I knew you could tell the difference between a 9 inch or not.I didnt know you could get a 3/4 ton axel in a half ton.???

no, that was real easy to tell by it not hasving the removeable 3rd and it being 8 lug
Sounds like someone has been dong some swapping.

So NetBSD, does this mean this free truck is useless for your needs? I mean you already got your rear covered, right. No pun intended. I suppose the 4 speed and rear wouldn't be bad for a spares, depending on what they are. That's a bummer if you can't use it. It seems like this project has been full of swwet deals you've fallen into.

Sounds like someone has been dong some swapping.

So NetBSD, does this mean this free truck is useless for your needs? I mean you already got your rear covered, right. No pun intended. I suppose the 4 speed and rear wouldn't be bad for a spares, depending on what they are. That's a bummer if you can't use it. It seems like this project has been full of swwet deals you've fallen into.


well the rear is junk to me, the 14b shoudl last a long time, basicly the only parts im taking from thisd truck is the box, the rest is getting sold or trashed. so if anyone in the PA area (eastern) is interested in a 300 or SF 60 (im not sure if it is but it looks like it) let me know, i dunno what the tranny is till i get it here and actually look at it. also the doors are solid, fenders are solid, hoods solid, the truck has almost no rust on it. even the frame looks nice but i doubt anyone would want a 2wd frame so thatll prolly get cut up with the tourch and put for scrap.

but yes im coming along some nice deals so far. now if i can find a set of 44" boggers real cheap id be set, along with some new coils and leafs (wink wink) :flipoff2:

well im picking up the truck tomorrow at 8am, never knew it would be this hard to find someone to towe it but after 4 hours and 80 calls i found a buddie with a towe dolly for $25 (a full days use) and my boss is picking it up with his pickup, worst part is it'll be a chevy pulling a ford :shaking: ill never live this down cuz my boss is a GM guy and always busting on my fords. but anyway to the point, im gunna start tearing it down saturday or sunday, so if anyone around my area that can come pick up the parts is welcome to them for real low prices, i need to make $75 for the new bearings and seals for my 14b. as stated before its got a 300 stright 6 with a 4 speed mated to it (not sure on the modle of the tranny yet) and what i think is a d60 SF and all the parts you can grab that i dont need. from what im told the steering box has alot of play in it so i doubt thats worth even asking about. i got exactly 5 weeks to get this truck tore down and off my bosses lot. probly will me tourched within the next 3 weeks and all that will be left is the motor and drivetrain. theres what i got, buy it off me :flipoff2:

well i got the truck, turns out its actually a 81 f250 with the 300, now my boss gave me an idea, the 300 has low miles and i was thinking of swapping it in my 78 so i could take my time on rebuilding the 400. what do i need to mate the 300 to my np435? and it also looks like my firewall in the 78 is going to hit the 300. anyone done this swap before? id really like to keep my truck on the road while i rebuild the 400 cuz today i drove the truck to my bosses garage and the oil filter collapsed on itself again, so theres still a shit load of dirt and sand in there from when i sunk it in the pit.

That 4 speed may be a good spare for your truck.They do occasionally blow a gear.

That 4 speed may be a good spare for your truck.They do occasionally blow a gear.


im not worried bout the tranny, i got another np435 sitting in the garage. if that 2wd tranny isnt outa my hands in 6 weeks its goign to the junk man for $$

edit:

2wd coils wont work on a 4x4 will they? the coils on this 81 are still in nice shape and i need new ones. they look liek they will also give me lift

Aaaah.I forgot it was 2x4 anyways.Keep that 300/6 for a DD anyways.you will want a smaller truck fror work driving sooner or later.

Aaaah.I forgot it was 2x4 anyways.Keep that 300/6 for a DD anyways.you will want a smaller truck fror work driving sooner or later.


if you read up the f250 has no title, lost in a fire and i cant be asses going thru lost title and getting this truck insured. and theres no way im goign to keep a 300 in my 78 for good, ill never get the power i want outof it. its more of a temp motor till i get the 400 rebuilt so i can still go out and mess around

I was suggesting you keep the 300/6 in the shop til you get a truck to drive to work.I did not mean to put it in the 78.I also didn't know you were going to put the 300 in the 78 for use while rebuilding the 400.Why don't you just wait til you have all the 400 parts and do it all at once.It will be a bit of work switching from a 400 to a 300 then back again.

I don't think I'd go to the trouble of swapping in the 300. You'd have to change motor mount towers (both sides if memory serves), your bellhousing, and maybe even the radiator just to mention a few. When it's all done you'd have even more weight on the front and less power. It's alot of work for something you're just gonna change back. But then again, maybe you don't mind the extra wrenching.

What has me confused is the oil filter on the 400 collapsing. I don't quite see how that could happen. Please enlighten me.:confused:

I don't think I'd go to the trouble of swapping in the 300. You'd have to change motor mount towers (both sides if memory serves), your bellhousing, and maybe even the radiator just to mention a few. When it's all done you'd have even more weight on the front and less power. It's alot of work for something you're just gonna change back. But then again, maybe you don't mind the extra wrenching.

What has me confused is the oil filter on the 400 collapsing. I don't quite see how that could happen. Please enlighten me.:confused:


the 400 issue is it has 350k on it but still runs strong. but ever since i sunk it in the muddy sandy pit last summer it sounds like a diesel at a steady RPM and the oil filter keeps colapsing on itself and starving my top end of oil. it might also have to do with me running 20w50 in the motor to help the seals cuz they leak at cold starts. swapping over the 300 till i get the 400 is no peoblem in lines of work if i dont need to buy anything, im not sure if my tranny will mate up the the 300's bell and if it will clear the firewall.. i have a small car i use for driving around to get parts and goto work, i just wanted to get something in the 78 to hold it over and so i can take my time on the 400 build

im not sure if my tranny will mate up the the 300's bell

Nope, sorry.

Adrianspeeder

Nope, sorry.

Adrianspeeder


was afriad of that, thats for the stright answer tho.

anyway im going tomorrow to start ripping into it and repairing my cab, then im going to box the frame on the 78. im gunna see if i cant cut up the f250 frame and use that steel cuz its clean yet and i wont have to buy the steel that way :flipoff2: im still amazed at the box on this truck, not a bit of rust on the wheel wells or sides, i was under it checking it out and i cant see any rust on it, prbly wont be stright long tho cuz i like to take my truck on jeep trails and watch all the jeeps get stuck. so the 300 is useless to me so someone should come take it off my hands, ill sell it for $150 witht he tranny. ill even get it running before i sell it. if anyone is interested you can reach me at 1-570-985-7638 im in eastern PA

well the 300 works and the 4 speed does aswell, ran strong for a 6 banger, lil white smoke but im not worried bout it cuz it was sitting for 4 years, but it runs, someone buy it before i finish ripping it apart and trash it, tranny is gone tho, i got a buyer for that... welt to take the bed off and only 1 outof the 6 bolts had the squar head on them, the rest were oval, wtf? so i had to burn 5 of them off. now im cleaning up the 78 frame and putting in new cross members and new wiring from the cab back. i noticed someone was a moron and cut some of the 78's frame to fit new shocks in (they put angel iron in cuz the stock mounts broke i guess) so thats another part i gotta fix up, then im going to use a hole saw and put in some 1-1/4" sch40 in for extra support to get rid of this frame flex, also ripping out the 9" tomorrow, still need a d60 to replace the HP44 so if ya got one cheap you should sell it to me :flipoff2: i really need the 8 lug and strength, i think thats all i really got done, was a slow day. oh i managed to get a drip of slag on my hand. burnned thru the glove and left a nice hole about 1cm deep in the top of my hand, feels awsome :D

Sounds like fun.Ill give ya 5 bucks if ya can blow that 300/6 up.

If yoou let it run for a while that smoke will prolly clear up.

Sounds like fun.Ill give ya 5 bucks if ya can blow that 300/6 up.

If yoou let it run for a while that smoke will prolly clear up.


yeah it was starting to, i imagin its just the seals swelling back up, 4 years of nothing will probly dry them up a bit. but the 300 wont get blown up, if no1 buys it ill probly swap it in a buggy i plan on building, just a small dune buggie i got plans for. but yeah im beat so im off to get some well earnd sleep then its off at 6am to start all over again

Sleep well and good luck.

ok so yesterday i got the 9" outa my 78 and i pulled the pinion to see what damage i did when i sunk it, here there was only water inside and theres metal shavings everywhere from the bearings, i kinda figured it would look like that, i was trying to blow it up cuz i got the 14b but it just wouldnt blow.

got the bed off the 81 and the one x-member that will replace my rusted out one. getting ready to pull the tranny out tonight after work along with the rear in the 81, about this rear, i was weading the tag and only thing i could make out is it has 3.33 gear ratio, cuz i was hopeing i could just use this rear instead of the 14 and build up the 14b some more but theres no way in hell 3.33 are going to do for me. i managed to get a pic of the rear cover on my cuzzins cell but he hasnt sent me it yet, ill post it up along with some other pics today. im off. have fun kids

cuit up the 81's frame yesterday. got the hangers cut off my 78. frasme cleaned up on the 78, working on the 14b today, last night i managed to kill the inner bearing with the punch, i put the pouter bearing in upside down :mad3: and had to knock out the seal and inner bearing and i managed to kill both thew seal and bearing, it was the old bearing tho so i guess its not a real loss, ill just go buy timken's to match the outer bearings i got. i learnd my lesson on those china made bearings. that 9" was so beat with only 700 mile on them and my heavy foot.

so hopefully by tomorrow ill have a rolling chassie again, still havent found a d60 for the front so i think im going to just swap out the 5lug and put on 8 lug ends with some nice shafts and regear it to match the 14b. im not sure yet.

78 frame is done, i wire wheeled the fuck outa it till it was as smooth as a babies bottom, managed to get the 81's f250 dash in my 78 ands it looks rather nice, i have photos just waiting for them to get sent to me (friend took them on his digi) also got rid of the bucket seats and tossed in the 81's row seat. only one real issue with this 81 dash swap, 1st gear on the tranny hits the ash tray when its closed even, so im going to heat the shifter and bend it maybe 1/2"

Heat that shifter and bend a few inches.I like the 80s dashes to.That is what my truck is.You could also go to the JY and get a shifter from an 80s truck with a NP435 and install it in your tranny then it should clear the dash.I forget the tire sise you wana run but if no bigger than 38s or so,then cromo shafts and 5-760x u joints will hold up for that D44.

Heat that shifter and bend a few inches.I like the 80s dashes to.That is what my truck is.You could also go to the JY and get a shifter from an 80s truck with a NP435 and install it in your tranny then it should clear the dash.I forget the tire sise you wana run but if no bigger than 38s or so,then cromo shafts and 5-760x u joints will hold up for that D44.


the shifter is bent, used the tourch and a pipe, only had to move it 1/4" cuz 1st was working but it hit the dash, so it clears now, just did my custom lift and i got about 8" in the rear that im not to happy with, 14b pearches dont line up so im welding new ones on, i got photos on my cuzzins cam just waiting for him to upload to my ftp server then ill post em up cuz its been a while since i shown off my work.

the part i gotta do nopw if find a nice set of coils for the 44 that will level out my truck, looks like a rat rod right now with how high the rear is, kinda upsetting i dont have coils yet cuz i wanna see this thing with the full lift on and a set of 35's. as for more mods, i decided to keep the 3/4 ton leafs till i see how well it flexes with the new box on it, fixing up the 78cab with new cab mounts and 81 f250 cab corners to try and get the cab and box to look almost like a matching set. as for the welding ill be doing ive decided to brase the new sheet metal in cuz i do it well and the stick will burn right thru it still dont have a mig or tig so im stuck brasing right now. but anyway i got work at 2am and its already 9pm so im off to bed. ill try to post up the pics tomorrow after work

Thouse 3/4 ton leafs wont flex to good.Take som leafs out before you finish up your lift.Run leafs in the front.I used chevy 52s and inded up with about 8 inches lift.That will mach your back.There just the right length to.

Thouse 3/4 ton leafs wont flex to good.Take som leafs out before you finish up your lift.Run leafs in the front.I used chevy 52s and inded up with about 8 inches lift.That will mach your back.There just the right length to.


how can you tell me they will give me my right height when you havent seen the setup and i dont know for sure if its 8", and removing a leaf has been tried, the box sags the springs to much. with my frame having x-members and sch40 1 1/4" every 12" i think frame flex is done with and it should flex just fine. i had the jack on them testing it. anyway its time for me to get off to work

ok heres the pics i promised.....


81 dash in 78 f150

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_99_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_100_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_101_full.jpg

rear springs idea that i hope works out

the big guy in the pics is my boss, its his lot and his tools im useing to build this truck. small guy is me

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_102_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_103_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_104_full.jpg

this is the sch40 1 1/4" i put in to stop frame flex
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_105_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_106_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_107_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_108_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_109_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_110_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_111_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_112_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_113_full.jpg

so how was it fabbing that dash to go in there, or was it an easy bolt on type swap?

so how was it fabbing that dash to go in there, or was it an easy bolt on type swap?


all i did was rip the old one out, drill some new holes for the dash and trimmed the edges cuz it was likw 1/8" on each side to wide, now im working on fitting the 81's gage cluster harness into the 78's old one. i got the wiring for the 78 but i need the wiring for the 81

You need to box that frame to stop frame flex.I dunno if your pipe will do the trick or not.Your 81 is the same color as my 81.Funny.I like your new dash.Never was a fan of the old ones.

What year is that copper box?Its not an 81.more like 87 up.

What year is that copper box?Its not an 81.more like 87 up.


you need to work on your years, its a 81 f250, nothing newer.
but i agree on the dash, now if i could just find out what wire does what on the cluster ill be all set.

the pipe is there to support the frame where someone cut a notch out, also to help the old x-members. already tested it by lifting up one side of the frame from the rear to see how much frame flex id have, even with 400# on the oposit side its not real bad with the new x-member. will be boxed in needed areas yet.


someone with a wiring diagram for the cluster should tell me what wire does what, on the plug its numberd 1 thru 18 but number 7 and 3 are unused

so hopefully by tomorrow ill have a rolling chassie again, still havent found a d60 for the front so i think im going to just swap out the 5lug and put on 8 lug ends with some nice shafts and regear it to match the 14b. im not sure yet.


You may have to research this a little bit cause i think that 10 bolt stub shafts and ford d44 stub shafts are different lengths but you could always try to get 10 bolt hubs and backing plates to put on your 44.

you need to work on your years, its a 81 f250, nothing newer.

That truck may be an 81 but that box you have above is not.It maches my 89 to the T.All my 81 pics have the fenders cut so I cant show you the difference in lines.IF your cab is a 81 then look at the fender lines.It will not mach your box,and it SHOULD.If you still need more proof ill find a pic on the net and post it,but I am wright.Sorry mann but you have a 87 up box.Ittl work though just the same but not 81.

that box is 87 and up, not 80-86

how can the box be 87 and up, its thwe original box, this truck only had one owner and never had anything swapped off of it.

Well the box has been swapped.Sorry mann.I think my 89 box like yours is stronger than my 81 box was.Neither the box you have or an 81 box would have mached your front,so whats the difference?

Net, at first I thought these other guys were smokin' crack about the bed thing. After I looked at your pictures a few times I think I see what they're talking about.

The difference is above the wheel well openings. I notice your front fenders have a crease around the wheel opening arch. The bed doesn't have the same crease. I'd have to look at an 81' bed to be sure but I think if that bed was original it would have the crease above the wheel wells.

I wasn't too sure about swapping dashes at first but it looks good. You figured out the wiring yet?

Net, at first I thought these other guys were smokin' crack about the bed thing. After I looked at your pictures a few times I think I see what they're talking about.

The difference is above the wheel well openings. I notice your front fenders have a crease around the wheel opening arch. The bed doesn't have the same crease. I'd have to look at an 81' bed to be sure but I think if that bed was original it would have the crease above the wheel wells.

I wasn't too sure about swapping dashes at first but it looks good. You figured out the wiring yet?


i still dont think it was swapped, the paint and pimp stripe is all original and matches perfect, the original owner has passed away and i got it from his kid, he said it was never swapped. but thanks for the complements on the dash, i enjoy it also but i have yet to find the factory wiring diagram for the 81's cluster, i have the diagram for the 78 f series tho. was hopeing someone on here had the 81's or ill just have to buy them off ebay like i did with the 78's

Was that 81 ever rearended?Maybe it was fixed at a repair shop and they put the wrong year bed on it then painted up to match the cab.That is the wrong bed and I know ford didnt do that because your bed is newer than what they had avalible in 1980 when that ford was made.I like the dash.

well i got the 14b in today, with the lift blocks i got ruffly 9-10" of lift so i think ill lose the blo9cks and run the 6". but my d-shaft is to long and wont hook up, so i gotta send out to get it shortend, a new end put on it (so it takes the same u-joint as the 14b) and balanced, total cost is gunna be $89.55, then some skyjacker 6" coils for the front are $170, boggers are gunna kill me cuz i sold my 44's so i could get some other stuff, so the plan is to run 35's till i get a better front axel and cash to spend on some new 44's.


what all needs to be done to make my HP 44 a 8 lug?

Swich to the 8 lug outers is all i think you have to do.You can also get a conversion U joint that will have the 2 different sises.

TTT.I wana hear how this is going.

well i got the 14b in today, with the lift blocks i got ruffly 9-10" of lift so i think ill lose the blo9cks and run the 6". but my d-shaft is to long and wont hook up, so i gotta send out to get it shortend, a new end put on it (so it takes the same u-joint as the 14b) and balanced, total cost is gunna be $89.55, then some skyjacker 6" coils for the front are $170, boggers are gunna kill me cuz i sold my 44's so i could get some other stuff, so the plan is to run 35's till i get a better front axel and cash to spend on some new 44's.


what all needs to be done to make my HP 44 a 8 lug? Chevy caliper brackets, spindle, hub and rotor, caliper, and outer shaft. I got mine off a k20 (obviously needs to be 8 lug) I also got all the hub pieces because the had the supreme Warn's or whatver.

Chevy caliper brackets, spindle, hub and rotor, caliper, and outer shaft. I got mine off a k20 (obviously needs to be 8 lug) I also got all the hub pieces because the had the supreme Warn's or whatver.


any year i should look for? will the inner shafts fit in my hp 44? im going to the junk yard to get these parts and i need a new inner on my 44 so it would be nice if the inner fit. thats if i can find a k20, for some reason i dont see many at the local pick-n-pull

If you use the GM parts for the 8-lug swap, you'll need the knuckle as well (6-bolt spindle vs. 5-bolt on the ford)....if you go w/ the '70's F-250 ford parts, the 5-bolt spindle will work on your existing knuckles (need the caliper bracket, spindle, hub, rotors, calipers, etc.) & lock-outs.

Good luck!

any year i should look for? will the inner shafts fit in my hp 44? im going to the junk yard to get these parts and i need a new inner on my 44 so it would be nice if the inner fit. thats if i can find a k20, for some reason i dont see many at the local pick-n-pull Oh yours is 5 lug disc already? If it is then the chevy stuff wouldnt be as cost efficient and ideal.

Oh yours is 5 lug disc already? If it is then the chevy stuff wouldnt be as cost efficient and ideal.


yeah its a 78 HP44 from what i know they are all disc. i just need it 8 lug to match my 14b till i get my handfs on a decent d60, so what parts do i need?

The caliper brackets, calipers, spindles, hubs, rotors & bearings of course from a late '70's F-250 HP 44 would work.....reuse the same outer shafts & lock-outs. Big dual piston calipers are nice addition to the 1/2-ton.

The GM swap requires the use of the GM knuckles as well.....smaller brakes to boot.

Isnt there a difference in the chevy and ford 8 lug dementions?Or is it just a difference in the center hole sise?

GM has a 6-lug spindle & the Ford has a 5-lug spindle like what you have now....change the spindle pattern/change the knuckle.

good to hear, ill be looking around for the 8 lug 44 sometime this week when im off work.

now to clear some other issues up...
i just put the box on my truck (from the 81 f250 donor) and all but the 2 bolt holes at the cab line up, they seem to be about 1" away from the hole on each side so i gotta redrill. now the lift i made for this truck looks way to big with the stock lift blocks so i think those are coming out, depends what it looks like when i get the 35's under it, im looking at running a 35x10 for a 16 or 16.5 wheel, what kinda back spacing should i be looking for? the wheels i got with the 81 domor is 8 lug and fits my 14bff patern but there is no back spacing so i dont think these will work for the 35's and i cant run 15" wheels cuz i doubt they will clear the calipers on the 14bff. so someone give me an idea on what kinda BS i need and sell me your wheels :flipoff2: ... still didnt get the dash done cuz no1 seems to know the wiring for the cluster, working on getting the $210 for the 8" coils that are going in the front, need a drop pitman arm, dunno how the front d-shaft is gunna feel about this lift yet and i still need to fix the cab or see if this guys wants to sell his 83 f350 cab to me to swap on it.

oh and i need caliper brakets for the 14bff convertion, my last attempt faild, i need a pattern or something to make a set, i wanna do a bolt just incase i ever feel the need to run drums again or if something happens that i gotta remove them. i will get somne photos of the work ive done tomorrow after work so you all can see it.

I build a truck with 8 inches of front lift and there was no room for doun travel orthe front DL would bind and break stuff.You may want to clock the T case doun a bit.And dont run 16.5 wheels,They dont have the safety bead on the rim so its really easy to loose your bead.Stick with 15s or 16s with 2.5 inches of BS.

didnt get any photos cuz i stayd in bed all day cuz i was sore from lifting all this shit for a buddie, ill try to snap some tomorrow

didnt get any photos cuz i stayd in bed all day cuz i was sore from lifting all this shit for a buddie, ill try to snap some tomorrow

How the fuck old are you? 70?

How the fuck old are you? 70?


20 but i got a bad back and some weird knee thing, theres like no cartilage left in my knee joints. got the bad back from working on 18 wheelers, went to lift a tire when i was 14 and pulled out my back, ever since it bothers me if i do to much lifting in one day, and a 50's piano is to much lifting

Sounds like someone has a case of Pussy'Itis.............:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

still havent touched the ford, weather has been shitty but plans for next job are replacing the pinion seal and drilling out the traps toi use a u-bolt style, i need to regear the fron HP44 to match the 14b buit it seems there isnt a 4:11 ratio for the 44? so i guess i have to run 4:10's. what do you guys run as in brand and price, im on sumit's site now and they want $175 for

Richmond Gear Ring and Pinion Sets
Gear, Ring and Pinion, 4.10:1 Ratio, Dana 44, 3 Series, Set

or do i need reverse cut? i havent regeard a front axel yet so i have no idea. or if you have some 4:10's layiong around you can sell me them but theres no way im moving my truck untill i get the 3:55's outa there and something closer to the 4:11's in the rear.


still havent gotten the 81's dash working in my 78, wiring is friggen weird.

pics will be coming, i just havent got chance to get to the truck but i still need these parts.

8" coil springs for the front (can settle with 6" springs)
8" drop pitman arm (read the first one)
14b caliper brackets
16x10" wheels with 3" backspacing 8 lug
4:10 HP44 gears for the front axel
set of some meaty rubber for the 16x10" wheels


EDIT: my buddie called up and said he found me a set of 15x10" wheels and rubber mounted on them, will a 15" wheel clear the 14b disk convertion? i got the rotors and calipers from a 77 k20

you may have to grind the calipers down a bit, but they should fit on there no problem. I have a few buddies with chevys that run 15" wheels on their 3/4 and 1 ton set-ups.

you may have to grind the calipers down a bit, but they should fit on there no problem. I have a few buddies with chevys that run 15" wheels on their 3/4 and 1 ton set-ups.


guess ill do a test fit and see what has to be done..

this may seem crazy but has anyone extended their stock pitman arm? sumit wants $172.95 for a 6-9" drop arm and i dont have that right now so i was thinking of extending mine till i get one

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SJA%2DFA500&N=4294908331+4294925060+4294811947+115&autoview=sku

seems like i might be able to do it but i dunno what kinda metal it is or if it is REALLY unsafe

EDIT: im still looking around for some coils and all i can find is in the $200 range so im gunna say FUCK coils and get me some leafs to use and maybe ill get lucky and find a d60 at the yard when i got for them tomorrow if i feel up to going, what kinda sprinmgs do you guys run up front? i know fordtrucks did a set so if you happen to come across this tell me what springs your running, im getting sick of looking for cheap coils and i have a feeling ill be alot happier with leafs

If your going to run leaves, I'd use 52" chevies.

As for the gears, 4.10's front and 4.11's rear are perfectly ok, and I believe that from the factory the D44's/9" came with 4.10/4.11/

Extending a pitman arm would be a bad, bad idea IMO. Why do you need so much lift anyways? 6" coils can be had for about $150, then if they werent enough you could drop the coil buckets 2".

If your going to run leaves, I'd use 52" chevies.

As for the gears, 4.10's front and 4.11's rear are perfectly ok, and I believe that from the factory the D44's/9" came with 4.10/4.11/

Extending a pitman arm would be a bad, bad idea IMO. Why do you need so much lift anyways? 6" coils can be had for about $150, then if they werent enough you could drop the coil buckets 2".

well i can deal with 6" of lift, right now with stock blocks and the flip i did in the rear it has almost 11" and im not one for that much lift, so if i remove the 3" lift block and the overload leaf ill have about 6" of lift whitch is what i was shooting for

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SJA%2D186&N=4294925130+115&autoview=sku

yeah theres 6" springs for 150 but then i still need to get new C bushings so the buckets sit level, its really more money then i have to toss into it right now specially if i need to buy that damn pitman arm, leafs were my original plan from the beginning but someone managed to talk me into coils, changed my mind again so leafs are going in the front. so if i find a set of 52" chevy springs at the yard ill be tossing those in, what trucks useually came with 52" springs? and how to mesure it, eye to eye? or follow the arch?

52" eye to eye

dude do not try to extend your pitman arm, thats cast and welds will not hold, it will break for sure eventually and someone could get seriously hurt or die. my one buddy tried to do this(he's even going to school for welding, go figure:shaking: ), he tried to make it work but it didn't hold up at all, and that was under a 2300 lb. samurai, not a fullsize truck

dude do not try to extend your pitman arm, thats cast and welds will not hold, it will break for sure eventually and someone could get seriously hurt or die. my one buddy tried to do this(he's even going to school for welding, go figure:shaking: ), he tried to make it work but it didn't hold up at all, and that was under a 2300 lb. samurai, not a fullsize truck

didnt think it was cast, but still doesnt rest my case, ive been welding cast for years and i think it would hold up for what im doing, its only gunna be used for moving around my land till i get the cash for the right one, its not like its gunna be on the street, im not that stupid :flipoff2:

The chevy 52 are what i used and they are in halfton trucks (older) and all blazers.I have a 460 so I added to leafs to the pack wich i really prolly only needed 1 at best but ohwell.Works good.

Now I was out with the tape measure the other day and it seemed mt rear leafs had the centerpin futher forward than normal.They are 4 in lift springs but according to my calculations they would fit in the front if i used 2x4 springs that are 2 1/2 inches wide and they would move my shackle back 3 more inches but keep my front axle in the same spot.....Somethin elso to think about..

didnt think it was cast, but still doesnt rest my case, ive been welding cast for years and i think it would hold up for what im doing, its only gunna be used for moving around my land till i get the cash for the right one, its not like its gunna be on the street, im not that stupid :flipoff2:

long as it's not gonna be on the street go for it, it may not be cast, but every pitman arm i've been around has been. that said i haven't really checked the pitman arm out on my ford, my brother did the work on the steering

ok kids heres the story, i havent gotten to the pick-n-pull yet, im leaving in an 2 hours to do so tho, my question here is if i go and find a d60 but its a GM how hard is it to flip the axle tubes cuz i need a drivers side drop and a GM is passengers side, or should i just rip the T-case outof the donor truck aswell? if i find a np205 from a GM will it fit my ford no problem? what kinda clearence issues am i looking at? what kinda steering changes?

oh heres the pics i priomised, not the best cuz it was almost dark and my batteries were almost dead so no flash, keep in mind i gotta lift the front yet.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_118_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_119_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_120_full.jpg


may no tlook the best right now, still needs front lift, lower the rear 4" cuz i cant stand how high it is so i gotta simply remove the blocks and overload leaf, needs new paint and itll be ready to show off on the rocks and mud

I would try to stick to a Ford D60, even if its a low pinion. The chevy 205 will not bolt up to your tranny, it has a different input spline, and different bolt pattern. As for re-tubeing an axle, its not something that I would try myself. In order to do it right you need to have a jig to get everything re-aligned. For a shop that re-tubes axles, its not that big of a job so I'd call some fabrication shops and get some prices before you buy a passenger drop axle. With all that said, I think I'd still go for a driver drop axle.

I would try to stick to a Ford D60, even if its a low pinion. The chevy 205 will not bolt up to your tranny, it has a different input spline, and different bolt pattern. As for re-tubeing an axle, its not something that I would try myself. In order to do it right you need to have a jig to get everything re-aligned. For a shop that re-tubes axles, its not that big of a job so I'd call some fabrication shops and get some prices before you buy a passenger drop axle. With all that said, I think I'd still go for a driver drop axle.


well i found 19 dana60 passenger side drop, 2 kingpin rest balljoint, ill prolly go pick them up later and sell them for a few buck to try and help my build, i managed to get me a nice set of leafs for the front tho so im gunna see what i can do with the hp44 till i get a 60, couldnt find a f250 4x4 anywhere for the 8 lug convertion or any 8 lug dana44 all were 6 lug ttb? or 5 lug. i also got a nice set of 1/2ton leafs off of a 02 f150 i found up at the yard :flipoff2:

Hook me up with one of the 19 dana 60s!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Need one with 4.10s!!!!

ok so ive been thinking abou tmy cutting brake ideas, i found a nice set online at
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=174&cat=0&page=
$119 for dual handles, but heres another idea i had, how would this work for an e-brake? was thinkiung that once i got it all hooked up im still going to need an e-brake for when i park my truck on hills so it doesnt put stress on the tranny, so if i use this to lock up the tires you think it would hold for long periods of time with no damage?

well i went to the local pick-n-pull today and seen a new 78 f-250 that was 8 lug in the rear, never seen it there before and i pitched a tent in my pants till i say the fron axel was gone :mad3: almost had a d60 or atleast a 8 lug d44, but anyway i started lifting the front of my truck, i got the front axel all unbolted and i managed to fit leafs in there without having to remove the cast wedges or get it retubed. so now how to i mesure for shocks? i never lifted a truck and had to mesure for shocks so im lost, lol. rest of the build it going good tho, only part i got left is to weld the perches on the axel and make some mounts and regear the fron to 4.11's, oh almost forgot, what parts of the HP44 are cast? cus it seems i have to weld sorta at the end of the C weges and a little twords the pumpkin where the tube meets it.

Hey man! I didn't know you were working on this stuff.. cool shit! I got a 79 CC I'm working on.. but slowly :). Got my front d60 though. It's a low pinion ford. You see many fords in peoples driveways and in the back 40 aound there? If so I go ask them see if they'll sell parts. I've gotten a few good deals this way and made some friends even.

The low pinion d60s are pretty good imo. People knock them but they are stronger than the d44HD. Someplace I found the axle strength and it was between a d44 and a 35 spline d60. Also they have much larger u-joints than the 44.

The pitman arm is probably high carbon steel. You could weld it if you heat treated it after I would think. Otherwise it'll have a lot of stress in it and will crack along the weld. Maybe even just heat it before welding it and keep it hot for a while after.

I guess a guy could do some kind of hardness test and try to get it back to that hardness when done too (heating it will change the hardness).

yueah i was thinkin after i said that abou the pitman arm, kinda figured it would be treated and a waste of time to make it longer and drop it then get it treated again, so im just going to ford up the $125 for a new pitman arm, still dunno what the axle is made of, i know the tubes are steel but what about the part where the C wedges are on the 44?

http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2000/hpd44front/hpd44front-4.jpg

right where that spring perch is, is that cast or steel? cuz thats how i gotta weld on my perches and i cant cut off the C's cuz its cast and i cant find a 44 without cast wedges in my pick-n-pull, unless someone has one that is willing to trade or has it cheap in north eastern PA, or a d60 is still wanted, this front axle is what holding me up right now, its still fawkin 5 lug and i cant find a 8 lug anywhere so im probly going to run 8 lug rear 5 lug front till i get a d60 or get the cash for 8 lug parts (new). i also was looking at putting the leafs right ontop of the C's but it wont clear the tire and you cannot get a ubolt around it, all but one hole lines up, also with the leafs how would i clear the pitman arm, on mine the box is mounted on the outside of the frame and the eye of the spring is about 4" away from the pitman arm (stock pitman that is) so i dunno if i can get the drop pitman to fit.

Use a magnet to check for steel.As for the shocks.Just figure how far your uptravel will be and extend your shock that far then mount it.Nothin to hard.

Good luck.

why not run radius arms? no axle wrap to deal with, softer ride....and great articulation if you wrist one

i hate my front leaves

why not run radius arms? no axle wrap to deal with, softer ride....and great articulation if you wrist one

i hate my front leaves


coils are to pricey, i like leaves, i see leafs flex just aswell as coils and its just a much simpler setup

leaves that flex as well a a coil setup will be long, soft and have tons of axle wrap. it sucks when your topping the crest of a hill and your front driveshaft pulls apart due to the driverside drooping down and the front being in a huge bind.

how are coils to pricey??? 100-150 bucks for a pair??? new leaves are what3-500 bucks a pair?? haha

just trying to help ya out...youl regret not going coils

I dont regret loosing my coils for my chevy 52s.I love them.

I also have a custom PTO front Drive line so the hole thing is a slip shaft..Never run out that way.

leaves that flex as well a a coil setup will be long, soft and have tons of axle wrap. it sucks when your topping the crest of a hill and your front driveshaft pulls apart due to the driverside drooping down and the front being in a huge bind.

how are coils to pricey??? 100-150 bucks for a pair??? new leaves are what3-500 bucks a pair?? haha

just trying to help ya out...youl regret not going coils


leafs at whole sale are $34 each, i got me a set of em and u-bolts for $70 and im making a front d-shaft that will slip about 1 1/2 foot, also puttin in some anti wrap bars front/rear so all the above is coverd and cost me maybe $100 total, still cheaper then $209 for a set of 8" coils from sumit. but on the good side, i got my 448/331 ujoiunyt to hook up my 78 f1560 shaft to the 76 14b for $25 and im drilling ou the yoke so i can use u-bolts tio hold the caps down instead of those stock straps. also talked to my boss about extending my time period on useing his land, so i got more time to find a d60, think i might have one by the end of this week, found a yard that has alot of f350's 4x4 so i should be able to find a d60 dirt cheap, only gunna cost alot in gas to get there. so if the d60 deal works out ill only need the drop pitman and a set of wheels.

fordtrucks, is your steering box inside or outside the frame, id like some pics of your front leaf setup to see how i can mount these, first time ive ever done it and would like some input

i guess the 44's i have combined with the horsepower of my 472ci. gives me the problems.....
i want to build a front anti wrap bar like i did for my rear, but there isnt much room up front

i cant run one of those pto slip shafts...they are too soft, i have seen too many twist and break in the type of wheeling i do

ill let yall be, just speaking from my experiance

yo netbsd, i'm in central pa, any chance you'd be a nice guy and let me in on your cheap dana60 hookup? i'm lookin for one for my 78...kinda

still didnbt get to pickup that d60 (if it even is one) and i didnt do any more work on the 78, however i found a new tow rig i might be getting, its a 87 f250 14b rear 60 front, 460, np435, np205 has 145k on it and he wants $3,000, also has 6" lift with some alum. wheels and small tires, i think like 31's. but i gotta come up with $1,000 yet and ill be buying it, or my buddie hasd a 78 f350 with a 460, 60 front/rear, the 460 in it needs new mains tho, mint condition and i can get it for $1,500. but the 87 just got new skins and had the frame painted, no rust at all so i might just get that and be done with it

get the older f350(they didnt make f-350 4x4's until 79), use the front axle for your wheeling truck, find a hp 44 and throw it under there, rebuild the 460 and you will have 1 tons for your wheelin rig, and a nice tow rig to boot

get the older f350(they didnt make f-350 4x4's until 79), use the front axle for your wheeling truck, find a hp 44 and throw it under there, rebuild the 460 and you will have 1 tons for your wheelin rig, and a nice tow rig to boot


it is a 79 then, the guy doesnt really know what he has, but i also have 2 HP44's sitting here so i guess i could just swap one in and rip out the d60, but id have to make the f350 use coils then, seems like more work then just getting the 87 and waiting for a d60 for the wheeling rig, im not sure what im doing yet, i might even buy both of them and be done with it, my boss tossed $2,000 at me yesterday as a loan :D ill figure something out when i take this 87 for a test drive, only thing im told it needs is a new front d-shaft cuz he blew the CV apart last time he drove it

find a 77.5-79 dana 44 out of an f-250...it will bolt right in place of the 60

hey.. sorry I didn't notice all the new questions when I checked this thread the other day.

I'm pretty sure the spring perches are stamped and so are mild steel. I have a d-70 that came out of a 76 but was originally from a 78-79 or later. I can tell cause the perches were ground off and moved (77.5 and ealrier had frame rails and springs closer together). Long story short this truck was beat and it never had a problem with them so there you go.

i'm pretty sure hte C's are cast. However if yer welding them to the tubes i think that's probly fine because the welds aren't holding all the forces.. most of it i held by the tube friction fitting into the C.

Anyway, sounds like you're going to avert all that problem.. I was thinking about rotating the Cs on my low pinion D60 but I am thiking now it's not worth the effort. Much better just to get something closer that will work.. that's a whole days (or more) work.

I have a 8 lug D44 here.. it has something broken in it.. not sure what but i was throwing the d60 in so i didn't care. Anyway it's an 8 lug .. maybe there's something I could send to help you out?

hey.. sorry I didn't notice all the new questions when I checked this thread the other day.

I'm pretty sure the spring perches are stamped and so are mild steel. I have a d-70 that came out of a 76 but was originally from a 78-79 or later. I can tell cause the perches were ground off and moved (77.5 and ealrier had frame rails and springs closer together). Long story short this truck was beat and it never had a problem with them so there you go.

i'm pretty sure hte C's are cast. However if yer welding them to the tubes i think that's probly fine because the welds aren't holding all the forces.. most of it i held by the tube friction fitting into the C.

Anyway, sounds like you're going to avert all that problem.. I was thinking about rotating the Cs on my low pinion D60 but I am thiking now it's not worth the effort. Much better just to get something closer that will work.. that's a whole days (or more) work.

I have a 8 lug D44 here.. it has something broken in it.. not sure what but i was throwing the d60 in so i didn't care. Anyway it's an 8 lug .. maybe there's something I could send to help you out?

i might need the 8 lug outers to convert my 44 to 8 lug so i dont gotta run 8 and 5 lug wheels, see how much it would be to ship it to mount carmel PA, 17851 and let me know what you want for it. also if anyone has a 6 to 8" drop pitman i could use one

Well unfortunatly I dont have a camera so i only have pics that other people have taken but here is a few.My steering box is in between the frame and the pitman arm goes straight out towards the front.

Here is the front spring mounts and the location of the box and pitman arm.
http://x11.putfile.com/12/36418344629.jpg
Here is the front end where you can see part of the front spring habger and the axle.I used the factory TTB front steering linkage for now.
http://x11.putfile.com/12/36418324820.jpg
Another with spring.
http://x11.putfile.com/12/36313204560.jpg
Here you can see my shackle and mount,on the left and axle in the middle.
http://x11.putfile.com/12/36420344546.jpg



I cant run one of those pto slip shafts...they are too soft, i have seen too many twist and break in the type of wheeling i do

My PTO has a 1 inch by 1 inch solid square slip yoke and a 2 inch round thickwall tube for the shaft.There is a 6 inch section welded to the round tube that has the square slot in it.IT IS rated at a cunthair over twice the strength of a 1 ton drive shaft.I dont recall the numbers but that is what it is.I have well over 400 foot pounds of tourke and have never twisted/bent/broke mine at all.I HAVE busted 4 stock ford front 1 ton drive shafts.I think what ever PTO shaft you saw wasnt a verry good one.

i have seen the pto setup your talking about twist under the power of a toyota 4 banger....


btw where do you get these "ratings"?

The ratings were at the shop that I had my shaft made at...I wasnt sure on how accurate it was so i didnt think twice about it.MY PTO will not break as easy as you think.I have a mean 466/435 and I havent broke it.Its not SOFT.It took me 15 minuites and 2 cutting wheels on the CHOP SAW to cut the 1 by 1 inch square solid shaft.Anyway who cares.I sure dont.

39.5x13.50x17 iroks $315 each at the local tire shop, is this about right? then a set of steel wheels that are 17x12 are $165 each with 2.5" backspacing, will i clear those tires wityh that ammount of BS? or should i get some wheels made?

I got my Iroks about 60+% life for $100 for all four. My wheels cost me 360 or so for all four from summit. Look around a bit for osme new used ones, its worth it if you ask me. Tghey are 36 x 13.5 x 16.

run about 4-4.5" backspacing

I am running 4.5" bs. My wheels are US steel wheels and they were like 80$ for 16 x 10.

till didnt get my d60 but i found a local guy selling lots of 7 for $5,000 and im trying to work a deal cuz the last d60 i found outof a 01 expedition was in a fire and the guy still wanted $700 and that seems to much for one that needs all new seals, gears, hubs, bearings. im starting the leaf sprung front now and every ford i look at that has leafs upfront stock have the shakles in the front of the axle, is there a reason for this or can i run then anyway i want, i wanted to solid mount the front of the spring to the front of the frame and run the shakle in the rear.

You can run the shackles at the rear of the springs, all the 70's modle fords were at the back from the factory,

You can run the shackles at the rear of the springs, all the 70's modle fords were at the back from the factory,


just what i wanted to hear, cuz id imagin that mounting the shakle at the rear of the truck would help axle wrap.

what all do i need to make my AC compressor into an onboard air compressor? i already have the air lines tanks and the AC outof my 78 f150, my idea is i want to run the clutch off a toggle switch so it only fills the tanks when i want to and hals a valve that will bypass air after it fills the tank toa sertain psi incase i forget to turn the switch off

till didnt get my d60 but i found a local guy selling lots of 7 for $5,000 and im trying to work a deal cuz the last d60 i found outof a 01 expedition was in a fire and the guy still wanted $700 and that seems to much for one that needs all new seals, gears, hubs, bearings. im starting the leaf sprung front now and every ford i look at that has leafs upfront stock have the shakles in the front of the axle, is there a reason for this or can i run then anyway i want, i wanted to solid mount the front of the spring to the front of the frame and run the shakle in the rear.


Whatever happened to the 19 D60 for $100 each?


here is 1 ton for you F350 guys...
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5531075&posted=1#post5531075

Whatever happened to the 19 D60 for $100 each?


here is 1 ton for you F350 guys...
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5531075&posted=1#post5531075


they are at harry's you pull it in hazleton PA, $63 each but all are chevy ones so i might end up getting one of them and running a nifferent t-case or getting it retubed, dunno yet

well i see someone got up and took those chevy d60's :flipoff2: not a single one left at my local pick-n-pull. but now im in a real bind, its the 17th and i have yet to get an axle, i really need one, anything leaf sprung right now would be great, i have found a d44 closed knukle but i hear they are hard to find shafts for, if ANYONE lives in eastern PA, close to Mount Carmel or Hazleton and has a axle i can get off them, i will be able to buy it or trade, i still got a 9" and a d44 combo, 3.55 gears, 9" has a mini-spool with only 1,000 miles on it tops, both needs shafts, i broke the 44 passengers and the 9" drivers. you can reach me at (570)-339-3337, ask for mark. also if anyone is interested in a half build 78 f150 i might just have to sell it to get it outof my buddies lot, only needs a front axle and the 14b needs the rest of the wheel lugs, new pinion seal, and caliper brackets, i have the rotors on it and the calipers.

buildup started again, just got the closed kuckle dana44 under the truck with the leafs, now im getting 3/8" channel to mount the leafs with, so far it looks like ill even clear the stock steering box, and it doesnt look like i need a drop pitman arm. only issue im having with this new dana44 is the tire rod ends dont fir, so i have to ream out the holes, ill get some pics after i get it hung and sitting on the tires

having a hard time finding the u-bolts for this 70's d44. anyone know where i can find these?

i dont know why i bother posting anymore, no one seems to like to help out but ill try again. the truck has a 400 6.6L and i wanna rewire it to lose all these damn wires, like a buggie would be wired with minimal wires, just enough to run the motor, is there anywhere that has a howto or a replacement wire harness?

For the U-bolts go to broncograveyard and check there. I do believe they have them. If I woulda got my 60 front a few weeks ago I coulda sent ya my U-bolts off my 44 front.

As for the wiring, are you willing to loose headlights, taillights, brakelights, everything? Or do you just want a 1 or 2 wire ignition setup? If thats the case I can check my diagrams sunday probably and get back to ya. We got a big street dance/co-ed softball tourny/golf tourny/etc starting at 1 today an going thru sunday evening. So I won't be around much.

For the U-bolts go to broncograveyard and check there. I do believe they have them. If I woulda got my 60 front a few weeks ago I coulda sent ya my U-bolts off my 44 front.

As for the wiring, are you willing to loose headlights, taillights, brakelights, everything? Or do you just want a 1 or 2 wire ignition setup? If thats the case I can check my diagrams sunday probably and get back to ya. We got a big street dance/co-ed softball tourny/golf tourny/etc starting at 1 today an going thru sunday evening. So I won't be around much.


im willing to lose everything, my plan is to get everything off the truck, then for my headlights im going to run a simple toggle switch so i can still wheel at night, brake lights the same, i already had to bypase the brake lights from the harness due to wiring issues when i got the truck. so basicly all that clutter under the dash i want GONE and after i get the truck running without that mess i will start working on wiring my ACC. in

just got word off a buddie that works at the local steel dealer, they dont have the channel i need (3/4" thick/ 3" wide/ 4" tall/ 6" long) so they are cutting it outof squar tubing, he dunno if it will be 1/2" thick or 3/8" yet, but i think 3/8" is plenty to hold my leafs in place, so today ill hopefully have the axle hung and ready to go, all i need yet are some brake lines.

got my steel today, 4 peices of 9" long by 3 1/2" wide by 4" tall and 3/8" thick, so i was drilling out 1/2" holes to moutn it to the frame, all went well with the press, then i was doing the side holes for the spring eye and shakle, fuckin 1/2" bit went dull (this is after 9 holes) and my boss was doing the side holes, it grabbed the steel and ripped the vise off the pess and was spinning the chunk of channel around like hell, bit snapped and hit him in the chect, 4" higher and it woulda hit his kneck, took a decent chunk out from his chest.

so i used the drill doctor, fuckin stone is wore or something cuz the bit wouldnt cut anymore, got a new pit and vut thru it like butter again and got them all done, so now all thats left is to drill 1/2" holes thru the frame and bolt it on, and yes these are grade 8 bolts with locknuts and washers, 2 bolts per channel, i think the 3/8" thick steel is overkill but ohwell.


so the plan is to have the axle hung tomorrow and the weight of the truck on the tires by tomorrow night. then all thats left to get it moving is to drill out the 14b yoke to use ubolts instead of those shitty straps and to get 6 more lug nuts and studs for the 14b, those are fuckin $2.50 for the studs (each) and $0.75 for the nuts (each). also need a set of u-bolts for the front axle yet. photos coming tomorrow hopefully. i wanna have this truck done by the 1st so i can take it out on the 4th to the party, everyone cant wait to see it and i have it in a location no1 knows about so its like a suprize to them. :flipoff2:

having a hard time finding the u-bolts for this 70's d44. anyone know where i can find these?

Just have some bent up by a local spring shop. That's what I have done every time I have needed u-bolts.

Just have some bent up by a local spring shop. That's what I have done every time I have needed u-bolts.


they want $15 to bend each one, so thats $60 for u-bolts, i said screw it and got a set at the local pick-n-pull. but now i need to get some high steer shit, ill try to explain this the best i can.

my closed knuckle 44 is like all the rest, but im trying to work out some drag link issues, im still running the stock 78 f150 steering box and its on the outside of the frame so i was looking and if i can get a hiugh steer arm on the passengers knuckle id be set and wouldnt need a drop pitman arm, heres a photo from Mr.N's site, basicly i need an arm like that on the passengers side but it has to face forward twords the front bumper.
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/images/dana44/ford63dana44knuckleii.jpg

and this is sorta how i need it, red would be the arm and green would be the drag link
http://imnotmark.zapto.org:3030/44.jpg

anyone know if this is possible?

I don't think hi-steer is possible on the closed knuckle 44s. At least when I did a bunch of searching I never found it done.

the images, i got the axle hung and tires are on, i messed up my front ahackles or i need some stronger springs. i just got it outof the lot, so i made the dead line, all it needs now is steering linkage and brake lines to be run, then i can drive it agaian. next is to make a front d-shaft and get it painted


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_121_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_122_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_123_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_124_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_125_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_126_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2139000-2139999/2139951_127_full.jpg
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well i was working on the steering today, got a 82 f250 box off a 2 wheel drive truck, seems it wont fit unless i chop the x-member off and make a new one, or if i do get it on i would have to remove the box to change oil filters, seems like to much work, so im going to take the drag link and rod ends off the f250 and extent the drag link, only has to go about 6 more inches and it will fit, so tomorrow i will be doing that, im going to make the drag link end replaceable so when it wears out (if it dont break first) i can replace it with a new one. ill include pics on that project, and i dont wanna hear "your going to kill someone" this weld will be put under stress test and used off road for the first few months of its life then go thru another stress test to see how it holds up, but i dont see why it would break when im going to be welding them together, then running some sch 40 over the top as extra support.

as for the rest, i got the fuel tank mounted with some custom straps i made, rear bumper needs to be mounted yet, brake lines need to be ran, need the caliper brakets for the 14b, and i need to rebuild the kinkpin on the d44 closed knuckle, the passengers side bottom one is shot, you can feel it has some free play.

what gearing useually came in the d44 closed knuckle? someone painted over the tag and i cannot read it, i plan on taking it off and hitting it with the wire wheel some time soon, but i wanna get my hopes up and pray for 4.10 or 4.11

EDIT: is there any kind of stronger windsheilds out there? like plexi or something? im sick of mine getting cracks when i wheel, the day i replaced mine last year another tree fell on the truck and put a nice crack on the top