Thinking about getting a Ford truck [Archive]

miesk5

12-02-2005, 06:43 AM

Gabe,
a re-post reply since the database here went down last night:
2 good Big Bronco FAQ's are:
Bronco FAQ by Matt & Ray at off-road.com (http://www.off-road.com/ford/bigbroncos/bbfaq.html)

Bronco FAQ by Zen (Alex) at zenseeker.net (http://www.zenseeker.net/4x4/indexBronco.htm)

Have Links to more tech, parts sources, etc. in my Bronco site below.

We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it...meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & lube, all filters changed before severe duty schedules, etc. Still, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.

Besides the usual visual, drivability and leak checks, look for:
- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/POR 15 or Restore (NAPA, etc.) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and undercoat/paint by Ford!

- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
- auto tranny - E4OD had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing
- transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually the motor connector is fouled, etc.
- auto hub operation (get it in sand, snow or mud and try the 4x4 system; or mark the driveshaft w/chalk or tape and see if it moves when in 4x4 for a short drive; ours blew @ only 30 k miles despite freq. maint.)
- rust in inner rear fender lips and bottom of tailgate (fender lips was rusting due to beach sand wearing the paint & road salt) ...check tg drains for clogs/rust..check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass
- radius arm bushing deterioration (I sprayed em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings
- ball joints..our's are ok, but costly if not DIY
- PSOM, make sure it works; look for a waver in the needle at highway speeds..costly to replace w/new; most get yard units for DIY; , a crooked dealer here in NJ has been caught for the 3rd time switching PSOMs!..there is also a device to roll-back odometers on PSOMs..so look for some maint records or contact a dealer to run an OASIS report to see what maint was done to it a Ford dealership... Car Fax is iffy..they do NOT list over $5k in single accident damages on 3 of our vehicles & our 92 Van had less mileage than when we sold it according to a CarFax report 2 years later... they id nothing after we contacted them.
- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.
- roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)
- emissions air check valve & tubing on MTA system..tends to rust early; as does the AIR tube
- radiator supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side PIA to replace

See if you can get it to a mechanic for a compression check, code checks (free at AutoZone, etc.and other inspections if you don't diy; neglected vehicles are costly to repair, esp. 4x4's.

Good luck!

and thanks to Blown for his remarks in the original reply!:beer:


Pirate4x4.Com > Brand Specific Tech > Ford > Thinking about getting a Ford truck PDA : Thinking about getting a Ford truck Gabe 11-30-2005, 09:39 PM Hey guys, I just bought an 89 Toyota 4runner recently, but have always prefered Ford. I have a 95 Mustang GT so I know the 5.0 decently well. Anyways down to biz. What would you say to someone interested in buying a Bronco (the 80s/90s style) Any good links to some FAQs? rabidranger 12-02-2005, 05:34 AM Search! Google is yer friend... OX 12-02-2005, 06:12 AM Hey guys, I just bought an 89 Toyota 4runner recently, but have always prefered Ford. I have a 95 Mustang GT so I know the 5.0 decently well. Anyways down to biz. What would you say to someone interested in buying a Bronco (the 80s/90s style) Any good links to some FAQs? fullsizebronco.com miesk5 12-02-2005, 06:43 AM Gabe, a re-post reply since the database here went down last night: 2 good Big Bronco FAQ's are: Bronco FAQ by Matt & Ray at off-road.com (http://www.off-road.com/ford/bigbroncos/bbfaq.html) Bronco FAQ by Zen (Alex) at zenseeker.net (http://www.zenseeker.net/4x4/indexBronco.htm) Have Links to more tech, parts sources, etc. in my Bronco site below. We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it...meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & lube, all filters changed before severe duty schedules, etc. Still, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly. Besides the usual visual, drivability and leak checks, look for: - oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/POR 15 or Restore (NAPA, etc.) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and undercoat/paint by Ford! - radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight - auto tranny - E4OD had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing - transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually the motor connector is fouled, etc. - auto hub operation (get it in sand, snow or mud and try the 4x4 system; or mark the driveshaft w/chalk or tape and see if it moves when in 4x4 for a short drive; ours blew @ only 30 k miles despite freq. maint.) - rust in inner rear fender lips and bottom of tailgate (fender lips was rusting due to beach sand wearing the paint & road salt) ...check tg drains for clogs/rust..check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass - radius arm bushing deterioration (I sprayed em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings - ball joints..our's are ok, but costly if not DIY - PSOM, make sure it works; look for a waver in the needle at highway speeds..costly to replace w/new; most get yard units for DIY; , a crooked dealer here in NJ has been caught for the 3rd time switching PSOMs!..there is also a device to roll-back odometers on PSOMs..so look for some maint records or contact a dealer to run an OASIS report to see what maint was done to it a Ford dealership... Car Fax is iffy..they do NOT list over $5k in single accident damages on 3 of our vehicles & our 92 Van had less mileage than when we sold it according to a CarFax report 2 years later... they id nothing after we contacted them. - cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc. - roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years) - emissions air check valve & tubing on MTA system..tends to rust early; as does the AIR tube - radiator supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side PIA to replace See if you can get it to a mechanic for a compression check, code checks (free at AutoZone, etc.and other inspections if you don't diy; neglected vehicles are costly to repair, esp. 4x4's. Good luck! and thanks to Blown for his remarks in the original reply!:beer: