I have an ARB locker in an Dana 30 front axle. Sometimes the compressor doesn't shut down. I don't believe the air lines or it's fittings are leaking. What's the drill?? I hear there are o-rings in the diff. I assume you have to pull the diff out.

If it's leaking in the diff, there will be air & maybe even gear oil coming out the breather tube.

What he said. It is the quickest way to tell if it is a problem with the locker or not. Just check the breather and see if you can feel or hear some air comming out. If not then it could be the pneumatic valve is getting stuck 1/2 way between open and closed so it is letting the air out the vent side.

I'm going to assume you are using the blue hose since you didn't specify. If you have a short length of blue hose(3 or 4 inches) plug it into the solenoid and cap the end. If the compressor shuts off you will know it is fine. Then plug your original hose back into the solenoid and unplug the hose from the diff. Cap the end again and see if the compressor shuts off. If it does then you have a problem with a leak in the diff or the connector at that end of the hose. If it does not stop running you need to replace the hose. The blue hose is brittle and can develop longitudinal(now there's a big word) stress fractures. Either way you should replace the blue hose with something a little more robust.

If you are using the ARB compressor, I would bet dollars to donuts, that your O ring at the compressor reservoir is either cracked or pinched. Remove the bolt that holds the compressor reservoir to the pump. You will see an O ring that fits between the reservoir and the compressor. If the O ring is not thoroughly trashed (cracked or broken in two), then pt a liberal amount of fresh grease on it, reposition it and carefully reassemble. I have seen the O rings fail a dozen times or so, and fixed them for people on the trail in about 10 minutes.

On a similar note
You can rewire the ARB actuation switch to be able to stay activated, without the compressor switch being activated.
That way if you have a leaking compressor, you can turn it on, activate the ARB, then turn off the compressor and let it leak down, without the ARB being disengaged. You will need to turn the compressor on each time you need to activate the ARB, and it will need to be able to come up to a minimum of about 65 psi, but at least you wont be without a locker or burn up the compressor.
Many guys with big reservoirs and higher pressure switches, wire their OBA this way so that the compressor can be switched off untill the pressure in the reservoir drops below 80 psi. I usually charge my air system once in the morning, and never worry about it again untill the next day,(unless use the air horn). The ARB itself only uses about a shot glass full of air, to engage.

Thanks for the good info. My ARB is fine until I shut the motor off. Pisssst !! Then, after I re-start the engine, the compressor won't shut off for several minutes, or not until I flip the switches 4-8 times. The compressor is so loud it is annoying/distracting to have it wailing away right when you need it the most. The last couple of trips I simply let the engine run all day, not really a prob with a 22-gallon fuel tank and 4 cyl. :smokin:

Issues like this are an excellent reason NOT to use an ARB. Over the years I've heard more complaints than I can possible remember.:mad:

Thanks for all the info!! I should be able to work things out. I have been using the arb lockers in my jeep for 8 years. And this if the first problem. It was the only selectable locker at the time I purchased them. I live above the snow line and prefer open diffs for the winter. However, when the snow melts, I need lockers.

I am running the blue line and it is time to replace it. Who makes a good product to go from the diff to compressor?

Maybe one of your fittings is loose or the tephlon tape is bunched up between the threads and is leaking. If all else fails....SOAPY WATER.

Originally posted by landuseorc
Issues like this are an excellent reason NOT to use an ARB. Over the years I've heard more complaints than I can possible remember.:mad:

Sounds to me like someone is jealous because they cant afford an ARB:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Keith


Sounds to me like someone is jealous because they cant afford an ARB:flipoff2:

Actually, when I did put the lockers in several years ago I had plently of money at the time, was doing a buildup, both axles and t-case, but of the people I knew with ARBs, it seemed they were always having issues. Heck, last time I went wheeling we had to wait a half hour or so because one guy with a TJ was having trouble, it wouldn't work, was leaking. This same thing has happened many, many times while wheeling with my club, it seems more often than not there is always someone in the group with a malfunctioning ARB. Just speaking from experience.

Originally posted by landuseorc


Actually, when I did put the lockers in several years ago I had plently of money at the time, was doing a buildup, both axles and t-case, but of the people I knew with ARBs, it seemed they were always having issues. Heck, last time I went wheeling we had to wait a half hour or so because one guy with a TJ was having trouble, it wouldn't work, was leaking. This same thing has happened many, many times while wheeling with my club, it seems more often than not there is always someone in the group with a malfunctioning ARB. Just speaking from experience.


Most of the problems I have seen, are all of the operator/Installer error variety.
The ARB systems can be built up to be very reliable, and the locker itself is to damn dependable, efficient, and performance worthy to consider any other locker for the front end. Maybe someone like OX will play out to be another viable option in the future, but for now. I wouldnt use anything but an ARB in a front axle(without a hydraulic ram). I have nothing but completely reliable service from my front ARB in my D44, of course Im very easy on my gear.:D

I love the ability to run with an open front, especialy on the sand paper you have for terrain out in your neck of the wood,...errr desert.

Sorry I didn't think of this the first time I replied. Since your compressor is 8 years old it my be just worn out. That's the case with mine & it will not build more than 90 psi. Since the sitch shuts it off @ 100, it just keeps running. I just ran a line from my York to the ARB compressor tank for a quick fix & unplugged the ARB compressor. It's been like that for 2 or 3 years now. It's much nicer without that noise anyway & the ARB comressor is still useable if the York ever dies.

Bad news...Air leaking out the vent tube. I guess it is time to pull the diff out. I assume it's the o rings I hear so much about.

Bad news...Air leaking out the vent tube. I guess it is time to pull the diff out. I assume it's the o rings I hear so much about.

What air pressure are you running it at? and do you use a seperate pressure regulator....the usual cause for that failure is too high air pressure......I set my reg@ 100 psi.....and never let it go over that!

ok, clarify...
how do you set the pressure? are you talking using the ARB compressor?

Originally posted by John
Bad news...Air leaking out the vent tube. I guess it is time to pull the diff out. I assume it's the o rings I hear so much about.

John, It really isn't that hard. The hardest part is reinstalling the airline inside the diff. There isn't much room in there for your fingers.

Just remember when you replace the 2 "o" rings to apply a liberal amount of oil to them.

Dont sweat it. You can handel this. Just dont drink any :beer: when your doing it. Wait till your done. :D

I would also advise lubing the O ring on the compressor like H8monday said. We have fixed 3 ARB compressors that RUN ON like you said. And we only have 3 :D Basicly all of them need to be lubed every once and a while.

Dont forget the best way not to run into the O ring problem in the diff is to change the Diff fluid regularly. I dont know why, but it helps. Mine are original in my front 30 and they were installed in Jan 1998. Still fine.

Bert,

remember when we installed my ARB... The copper line we installed!... no more problems with your fingers being in the way!.. We should patent this idea! although someone else has to have thought of this too!!!

Milk, Did we take any pics of that?

If not, The next time you change the oil. shoot some pics. I want them on my home page.

What we did was to cut the copper line that runs from the 2 little o rings up to the top of the diff. We put in a copper spacer thingy.

And one piece runs up to the top of the diff and the other half runs to the bearings (little o rings). It works great. No leaks and if we have to pull it apart its a piece of cake.

well i hope for your sake its the o rings, mine held up just fine, but i managed to crack the arb carrier, which also lets the air blow out the vent... :eek: i got detroits now so, no worries here :D

Originally posted by Bert
Milk, Did we take any pics of that?

If not, The next time you change the oil. shoot some pics. I want them on my home page.

What we did was to cut the copper line that runs from the 2 little o rings up to the top of the diff. We put in a copper spacer thingy.

And one piece runs up to the top of the diff and the other half runs to the bearings (little o rings). It works great. No leaks and if we have to pull it apart its a piece of cake.


I cut the copper line from the locker to the hole in the diff and installed an AN3 female fitting onto it. Then I installed an AN3 bulkhead adapter in the diff, and attached the copper line to the bulkhead adapter. On the outside I use a braided stainless line with an AN3 female on both ends. At the air solonoid I use an NP to AN fitting.
They are strong, leak resistant, and easy to assemble or disassemble. Probably cost about $30 for everything.

I had this problem on my first ARB. The guy who installed it had never done an ARB before. I turned out it was just the fitting in the housing leaking inside the housing, not o-rings or anything in the locker. I hope that's all yours is.

Originally posted by badassjeepguy
well i hope for your sake its the o rings, mine held up just fine, but i managed to crack the arb carrier, which also lets the air blow out the vent... :eek: i got detroits now so, no worries here :D

I had a FF44 rear and broke an axle. I drove out on it since the ARB would drive the other axle so at least I had some go. Bust an axle with a Detroit and drive on it and see how long it lasts before the teeth are gone on the inside. We could all go back and forth about whats best but by far most of the failures are due to the installer and not the quality of the product. I love it when a guy routs the line near the exhaust and it of course blows out and what do you hear....That Damm ARB*@$#!

The leak is probably the main seal inside the unit and not the o-rings so replace them both. To replace the main seal you will need to remove the ring gear bolts and that will pull the back half off. Once off use a blow gun on the little inlet hole between the o-rings and just blow the main seal out. Remember what way it goes because there are 2 ways it could go. I had this go out on my 44 once because I got water into it because the compresor was so low.

In the front I used a barbed brass fitting that I found at a hardware store and I ran 3/8" rubber fuel line to the compressor. No leaks and very strong. Total cost about $6. I still have the blue hose in the rear because I was in a hurry but it will be gone soon.

Originally posted by 66CJdean


I had a FF44 rear and broke an axle. I drove out on it since the ARB would drive the other axle so at least I had some go. Bust an axle with a Detroit and drive on it and see how long it lasts before the teeth are gone on the inside. We could all go back and forth about whats best but by far most of the failures are due to the installer and not the quality of the product. I love it when a guy routs the line near the exhaust and it of course blows out and what do you hear....That Damm ARB*@$#!

The leak is probably the main seal inside the unit and not the o-rings so replace them both. To replace the main seal you will need to remove the ring gear bolts and that will pull the back half off. Once off use a blow gun on the little inlet hole between the o-rings and just blow the main seal out. Remember what way it goes because there are 2 ways it could go. I had this go out on my 44 once because I got water into it because the compresor was so low.


hey man, im not saying detroit better, i just prefer it, i was only impling that for his sake i hope it isnt a cracked carrier.... a few others have cracked the arb carrier.... note: this was on a dana 30 front, so part of the problem was the 30 its self......... would i do arb again? sure in the front with my nine inch or a 60... the detroit/arb debate could and probably will go on forever.... i think either one in a strong axle/ set up properly will work very well.... but, i still prefer my detroits :D :flipoff2:

ok, clarify... yes I run a seperate regulator (welding type) if you have an air tank place if after the tank and before your arb.....with no tank place it after your compressor...I run mine from co2 setup.......much more reliable system than a compressor.........