I am installing a reverse shackle and extending the wheelbase a total of 4in. in the front, and was curious what others have done with the steering box's stock location. I will move the front axle forward 2in by moving the mounts forward (extending the frame) and the other 2in will be gained by using 7leaf waggy springs. It appears that the steering box will need to be moved forward.

If you ask me it all depends on how you plan on running your steering.

I have a MORE SR with buggy leaf and waggy front springs on my YJ (total of ~3.5"). I have only the drag link above the springs and left the tie rod in the factory location (soon to be behind the axle). With this setup the geometry is fine with the D44 and even better with the D60. I left the gear box in the factory location with no problems.

If you plan on having the drag link tie into the tie rod then you will have issues with binding upon articulation.

My shackle reversal has pushed the front axle forward about 2 inches, and right now I'm running the drag link to a high steer arm and running the tie rod in the stock location. Thank God it's a really beefy tie rod, because I've already dropped the Jeep hard on the tie rod twice. It's got a nice arch to it, but at least it didn't taco it. As soon as I can get ahold of Bob Roggy I'm doing the tie rod behind the pumpkin as well.
I looked at moving the box forward, but as far as I can see I'd have to cut that front round tube off and weld a square tube further forward or something. I think it's easier to just put the tie rod in back.

I actually plan on running the tierod below in the stock waggy knuckles, and pick up a flat top pass. knuckle and do histeer on the draglink. I see so it doesnt make a difference with the histeer. DUH well that saves me alot of work. I was getting ready to extend the frame and so on. It is simple to do, i have had to three times with other rigs. My cj5 has full size blazer fronts on all four corners and I had to extend the frame 4.5in. Thanks for pointing out the obvious guys. Hey Rockslut is your YJ white with black tube fenders on 38.5sxs? I would love to see more pics of that rig if it is yours. My YJ is white as well and with the exception of the tube fenders will be fairly similar when done. Thanks again guys!!!!!!

uh...so what protection does that give your tie rod?isnt that half the purpose of hi steer? how about his for a thinker: move the axle forward about 5 inches by extending the frame, move the steering box BACK about 6-7 inches(stay with me), move the pitman arm around where it points toward the front bumper, run the tie rod in front of the axle, the drag link behind the axle( and both above the springs). this gives you proper steering properties(from what i can tell), and would solve the behind-the-axle binding problem between the steering and the front driveshaft (i think). not to mention you wouldnt need to use offset springs.......................so...what do yall think about this?



- jake

Yep, thats my YJ. It is currently under the knife. It is getting GM front 60 Ford rear70 and beadlocks and 39.5" TSL's.

There will be picks very soon.


As for the loss of protection from running your tie rod in the stock location I have never had a problem. I have a rockstomper rod with GM ends and have only scratched the paint off of it. I will be putting the tie rod behind the axle as soon as I have the $$$ to get a double ended 60 arm. I dont think that everything has to be above the springs if its beefy.

Originally posted by The Rockslut
Yep, thats my YJ. It is currently under the knife. It is getting GM front 60 Ford rear70 and beadlocks and 39.5" TSL's.

There will be picks very soon.


As for the loss of protection from running your tie rod in the stock location I have never had a problem. I have a rockstomper rod with GM ends and have only scratched the paint off of it. I will be putting the tie rod behind the axle as soon as I have the $$$ to get a double ended 60 arm. I dont think that everything has to be above the springs if its beefy.

Where can a guy get a double ended 60 arm? Is it roughly the same design that Eric Ruhl and Bob Roggy where developing for a Dana 44? If so, I'm all over that.

My opinion on drag link angles, is the flatter the better.
Why settle for a marginal drag link angle, or potential bind, when it is so easy to move the box to whatever location and elevation that works best.
Using the stock steering box bracket from a YJ makes this mod very easy. just line up the upper holes where you want the box. Mark them drill them and sleeve them with 1/2" ID pipe or tubing. Drill a piece of 1/4" x 2 1/2" flat plate to accept the bottom bolts, then weld a couple of grade 8 nuts in place to accept the bolts.
fab a couple of 1/4" side plates fasten all the bolts, then tack and check everything before fully welding.
Comming from someone who can make an all day project out of plumbing my OBA, I can do this modification in about 2 to 3 hours max. I have moved mine 3 times, due to suspension changes.
My front axle is currently about 6" forward of stock.
Here is a pic of my current box location. you can see the stock holes above and forward of the current mounts

Just ordered my Eric Ruhl style high steer arms today. Tie rod will be behind the pumpkin. Can't wait to go wheelin again!