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View Full Version : What cutter would you use to slot some holes...

oneton72gmc
12-03-2005, 04:20 PM
Sounds really stupid, but I figured this was best put in with tools...

I bought some 35 spline Yukon shafts for my rear Dana 60 to replace my Dana 70 shafts and the spacers. When I talked to Yukon I asked them about the bolt pattern on the hub, and length. I was told that the shafts were made too long on purpose and they needed to be cut to length. Also that the bolt pattern was the most common one out there for Dana 60 rear axles... Wouldn't you know I never have anything common, the Dana 60 I built came from a 1970 3/4 ton 2WD GMC...

Anyway, I test fit the axles, and they looked good, however they were too long just as was stated. I cut them to length and attempted to bolt them up... DOH! The bolt pattern was/is too wide by about 1/8"-1/4". Since I cut them to length already, I kinda screwed myself in taking them back. What kind of cutter or tool would you use to slot the bolt holes?

I was thinking die grinder, but thats 16 holes, and the material is 4340. The HSS grinding bit I have won't cut it very well. I was thinking about taking it to work and setting up the horizontal mill and cutting them slotted, but then again, what cutter? I don't think a HSS endmill will cut it either.

I admit I shouldn't have been so retarded, but we all make mistakes (I just seem to make more than others) and want to use them since thats $200 down the drain. I could buy new hubs, swap out my brand new bearings, seals, and rotors, but I think it would be easier and cheaper just to slot the holes. What do you guy's think?
rockcrawln
12-03-2005, 04:27 PM
Which bolt pattern are you talking about? The one for the backing plate or the one for the lug bolts?

~Kirk
78bronco460
12-03-2005, 04:36 PM
I'd swap the hubs out for some with the right bolt pattern. The right cutting tool and your time is gotta be worth that much.
420willys
12-03-2005, 04:57 PM
ya like 78bronco said could you swap in differnt hubs, the right ones that you need, jason.
LittleBlackSambo
12-03-2005, 05:20 PM
maybe an insert end mill?
Goat
12-03-2005, 06:52 PM
Any quality uncoated carbide endmill will do the trick...
JeepinDoug
12-03-2005, 07:22 PM
Semifloat axles? Wheel bolt pattern?
What? They sent you 8 lug on 6.5 and you're using late model Ford wheels?

To answer your question, 4 flute carbide, coated or not doesn't matter.

To add my opinion. I wouldn't do that. That hole holds everything together. If you ob-round it you loose half of the strength the knurl on the bolt was intended for.

Your best option may be changing your wheels to the right and more common pattern.
Do your wheels fit on your front axle?
jasonmt
12-03-2005, 08:10 PM
Going with the assumption that you are talking about the axle shaft flange bolt pattern not matching the pattern on your wheel hubs, I would be inclined to drill the needed pattern rotated 45 degrees to the existing pattern.
oneton72gmc
12-04-2005, 12:16 AM
I guess I wasn't very clear... This is the bolt pattern for a Full float dana 60 shaft, Hmmm, see I told you i'm retarded, I never even thought of redrilling the flange 45 degrees off...

I don't know if any of you have tried machining these shafts before, but they are hard as hell, I tried to part it off to length, and I had my parting tool shooting off some nice sparks, its tough shite. The flange has also been hardened too.

I like the redrilling of the bolt pattern, simple enough, now for a good quality drill and how to do it...
krb
12-04-2005, 07:01 AM
Carbide endmill,4 flute or 6.
Depending on the hardness, a roughing (fine)endmill may work at low rpm.
JeepinDoug
12-04-2005, 09:48 AM
I've shortened stub Chevy stubs to Ford length using a carbide endmill. It's not that bad. It will spark at entry because of the surface hardness but then mellow out.
The flange on an alloy FF shaft might have the ribs between the holes. In that case you'd need to spotface the holes for a flat surface. Ob-rounding the existing hole there is not a big deal.
MC
12-04-2005, 10:05 AM
Thats doesnt make sense.....send them back. The flange BP is one of the most common circles used.
MarkW
12-04-2005, 10:13 AM
I may not have read this right, and I have a couple of kids yanking at my chair for me to take them out so apologies if I am on the wroing planet here, but I think the best fix would be to weld the holes shut and redrill.

I'll probably look back at this later on and realized some reason I overlooked but gotta go!
Peter_C
12-04-2005, 11:02 AM
I would go like suggested above and replace the hubs to the more common ones. That sounds like the simplist and cheapest alternative without loosing strength. How much is a damaged mill bit worth?
JeepinDoug
12-04-2005, 12:16 PM
I may not have read this right, and I have a couple of kids yanking at my chair for me to take them out so apologies if I am on the wroing planet here, but I think the best fix would be to weld the holes shut and redrill.

I'll probably look back at this later on and realized some reason I overlooked but gotta go!
Take into consideration these are heat treated 4340 shafts. This is not reccomended.
JeepinDoug
12-04-2005, 12:22 PM
How much is a damaged mill bit worth?

A new carbide 4 flute endmill (1/2") cost $32 (approx). How much do hubs cost?
78bronco460
12-04-2005, 02:00 PM
A new carbide 4 flute endmill (1/2") cost $32 (approx). How much do hubs cost?
$5 or $10 each at the boneyards here, with the brake drum on em. If I'm not mistaken this oneton guy is in my vicinity.
oneton72gmc
12-05-2005, 03:27 PM
$5 or $10 each at the boneyards here, with the brake drum on em. If I'm not mistaken this oneton guy is in my vicinity.

Yes I am, well kinda, I live out in Sandy...

I posted this yesterday (or the day before), I never thought of drilling the hole patter 45 degrees from the old one, that would work, but they're pretty hard so I don't know how well that will work out. These are good idea's, i'll juat have to put them in action.
krb
12-06-2005, 05:07 PM
Yes I am, well kinda, I live out in Sandy...

I posted this yesterday (or the day before), I never thought of drilling the hole patter 45 degrees from the old one, that would work, but they're pretty hard so I don't know how well that will work out. These are good idea's, i'll juat have to put them in action.

Use a carbide drill.
PTSchram
12-07-2005, 10:54 AM
Use a carbide drill.

In a rigid setup. Any chatter and kiss the bit goodbye. Hardened material has to be rock solid or it'll chatter and break the bit. (I have lots of experience breaking cutting tools:flipoff2: )
krb
12-08-2005, 06:13 AM
In a rigid setup. Any chatter and kiss the bit goodbye. Hardened material has to be rock solid or it'll chatter and break the bit. (I have lots of experience breaking cutting tools:flipoff2: )

It will still work.
I use carbide(drills,end mills) to rework hardened parts all the time on materials like 440,410,17-4 etc.Yes the tools could break but it can be done.
PTSchram
12-08-2005, 01:02 PM
It will still work.
I use carbide(drills,end mills) to rework hardened parts all the time on materials like 440,410,17-4 etc.Yes the tools could break but it can be done.

I'll bet you have a nice rigid setup! I have a horrible time as I don't have any really rigid machinery. None of it's bolted down :D
krb
12-08-2005, 08:08 PM
I'll bet you have a nice rigid setup! I have a horrible time as I don't have any really rigid machinery. None of it's bolted down :D

Kurt vise on Sharp vertical mill.Even with this the tools dont last with a riged setup depending on the hardness.
Using the knee instead of the quill works better for plunging holes.
JeepinDoug
12-08-2005, 10:14 PM
There's always more than one way to skin a cat.
For this paticular job I'd do it at home with a carbide burr and a mini grinder. Doesn't need to be accurate, only clearance for the bolts without being overzealous, infact the same tool in the mill will work with higher rpms and patience.