Ok I'm pissed;) my starter quits when warm, not even a click. And I came outa the movies and flat tire with a 3" gash, with a point in the middle...Knife perhaps?:mad: no jack:mad3: no lug wrench:mad3: :mad3: no phillips to remove custome rim lug nut cover:mad3: :mad3: :mad3: & it won't start:nuke: & spare is almost FLAT:vader2: FUCK! ok I feel better, now is this starter a common thing like the toyota's? Com Awn;) A search netted no help:(

Better for your starter to die in town than some place like clawhammer (sorry Tusker..it was too easy). If you go to Izook they have starter fix stuff there, but dont you have a yankee motor?

BTW the tire thing sucks ass!

Originally posted by scwafish
..................but dont you have a yankee motor?

BTW the tire thing sucks ass!

that's my wheeler, I also have a 86 stocker:) thx I'll go to izook. lucky 4me the tires are only 30's not my boggers:eek:

i rebuild my starter.
dont laugh to much.
i used gun oil to lub up the moving parts and ued a spring out of some old starter that i had laying around.
Breakfree gun oil has teflon in it. it did the job.
At first it didnt want to turn over.
cleaned all the wires ends off with sand paper. hit it with a monkey wrench a couple of times now she works fine . until the engine blow up. two day ago.

That is why i am trying to sell the swift engine.
I bought a new thermsat (it was not good)
made sure i put enough water down the thermstat housing and the rad/ started the engine/ watch teh temp for a few min/ went inthe house came back out and about the time i got back to the truck it was over with/ the thermstat din't open up/ the engine overheated and that was the end of my samuria engine/ cracked the head / and the pressure pused a hole through number 4 piston.

Originally posted by scwafish
Better for your starter to die in town than some place like clawhammer (sorry Tusker..it was too easy). If you go to Izook they have starter fix stuff there, but dont you have a yankee motor?

BTW the tire thing sucks ass!

been over at izook for over an hour, no starter info that I can find:(...got a link?

That is a chevy starter for you. the problem is that the solinoid gets to hot on the chevy starters. You need to use a ford solonoid and mount it on the fire wall. This is what I did to fix the same problem.

Mike

SeaBass,
This is on a stocker right???
You may want to check the clutch interlock switch, if it's still hooked up or not bypassed. A bad switch will act the same way... Push in clutch - Turn key - no clicky... If that's not it, check starter cables and ground wires... There is also the starter relay mod that sends full power to the starter and bypasses all the factory crap wireing. Like was mentioned before, i think it's on izook somewhere, or petroworks may have a blurb about it, i think they sell a little kit.

Can't help you with the tire... No wait, i got a whole PILE of stocker wheels with good tires on em... You can have ALL you want for shipping:D

Bass...I'll have a look, I am pretty sure I saw it there, but may have been another page.

Ok so I was way off, especially embassing since I should know ORC a little better (sorry Geoff and Scott:emb3:) anyways hope this helps...http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/samurai/starterfix.htm

Originally posted by mas2
That is a chevy starter for you. the problem is that the solinoid gets to hot on the chevy starters. You need to use a ford solonoid and mount it on the fire wall. This is what I did to fix the same problem.

Mike

read above...where I say it's my stocker:emb4: Thx scwafish, I'll go check iut out. I have some snow ski's on the 86 that came with the truck, now my buddy says that the guy I traded for the sammy has people that don't like him, and likly thought it was still his and slashed my tire:mad3: ski's r gone!:rasta: :rasta: :rasta:

Originally posted by scwafish
Ok so I was way off, especially embassing since I should know ORC a little better (sorry Geoff and Scott:emb3:) anyways hope this helps...http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/samurai/starterfix.htm
\
Nice idea, but my won't even "click" when it won't work...may still be the same thing though.

I also forgot... It could be the solder connections on the back of the key switch. They've been know to go to shit. I had one that did that...

Originally posted by StomperZUK
I also forgot... It could be the solder connections on the back of the key switch. They've been know to go to shit. I had one that did that...

This has something to do with it being warm, ain't hot here yet;) so if I drive it,even if only for 5mins it won't restart, but if it sits for a while, 20 mins it works.

Clean the little push on tab on the solenoid. Try jumping the tab from the battery with it out of gear. If no go just go to a local starter/alt shop and buy the new solenoid for a mitsubishi starter. They have generic ones for like 15$ US. (Well, they're 30$ canadian at least).

The things go bad when old and the coils tend to open or short out at the incorrect # of windings.

Problem I have is the roller cams in nose drive won't jam so the dam thing just spins and spins even though it's engaged!
Ken

what mine used to do was not click immediately, but if you kept the key turned for another 5 seconds or so, it would start right up. Weird, but it hasn't let me down yet, well, except for the 5 minutes it wouldn't work after being submerged.

How about just buying a new selanoid? Either that or the starter is getting hot, and the windings are expanding. Then when it cools down, the winding go back to there normal size....and it starts

Happens all the time to GM cars!

Get a new starter witha selanoid and put it in there!

Originally posted by RudeZuk
How about just buying a new selanoid? Either that or the starter is getting hot, and the windings are expanding. Then when it cools down, the winding go back to there normal size....and it starts

Happens all the time to GM cars!

Get a new starter witha selanoid and put it in there!

it's not the heat, I drove it 10 mins, stoped and it wouldn't restart, so I push start it drive another 10 mins total now 20 mins, and stop and then the starter works? wierd, but I haven't messed with it yet, other things to do:)

i know you are talking about a non EFI model, but some of the "problems" Zuks have aren't restricted to years.....

mine is a '91efi, but i had/have the same probs as an earlier (soft top) model such as : THE LEAK, THE STARTER (:mad: :D )

i had the starter go randomly AWOL about a year and a 1/2 from brand new, and took it in under warrantee, replaced the starter, solenoid, and main relay.
after a little while it continued doing it, and (as ashamed as i am to admitting it) just went "ahh fawk it" and lived with it for the next 8 years:emb2: then not too long ago i began to get error codes from my ECU pointing to the igniter!

to make a long story short- it turned out to be a MICROSCOPICALLY *loose* main GROUND wire where it attaches to the block (under/near the starter motor)

i couldn't even feel that it was loose, but after undoing it, emery papering the surfaces, and locktight-ing the bolt, all the error codes went away, AND i've never had another starter problem.

not so much as a dirty look from the little fawker.:D

i'm not saying this *is* what your problem will turn out to be, but heck, it'll cost you nothing to try, and yuh never know.....:beer:

That sounds feasable!!! Totally! Im starting to have that problem with mine! I even started draining my battery.....Ill check my grounds!

Originally posted by UZI 9mm
i know you are talking about a non EFI model, but some of the "problems" Zuks have aren't restricted to years.....

mine is a '91efi, but i had/have the same probs as an earlier (soft top) model such as : THE LEAK, THE STARTER (:mad: :D )

i had the starter go randomly AWOL about a year and a 1/2 from brand new, and took it in under warrantee, replaced the starter, solenoid, and main relay.
after a little while it continued doing it, and (as ashamed as i am to admitting it) just went "ahh fawk it" and lived with it for the next 8 years:emb2: then not too long ago i began to get error codes from my ECU pointing to the igniter!

to make a long story short- it turned out to be a MICROSCOPICALLY *loose* main GROUND wire where it attaches to the block (under/near the starter motor)

i couldn't even feel that it was loose, but after undoing it, emery papering the surfaces, and locktight-ing the bolt, all the error codes went away, AND i've never had another starter problem.

not so much as a dirty look from the little fawker.:D

i'm not saying this *is* what your problem will turn out to be, but heck, it'll cost you nothing to try, and yuh never know.....:beer:

Thanks, it may very well be that;) I'll check it out.

i'll keep my wires.....er oops, fingers crossed for you guys:D :beer:

SeaBass, I had the same dilema (thanks for the Clawhammer reminder swafish :mad: ). Wouldn't restart when hot or cold/wet. Turned out to be bad starter (you know, the quality life-time guaranty jobie from Kragen's :flipoff2:). So I took it back. The next one did the same :flipoff2: :flipoff2: . Took it back, got my money back, and got a Bosh starter. That one works like a charm.

I am sure the problem was the sylenoid. Not starting when it is hot is a sure sign of a bad electrical connection/component. Mine would draw a lot of current, but wouldn't turn or even click at all. Is your's drawing a lot of current when you turn the key (my fan would slow way down when it was locked up)? The stock units are famous for having bad sylenoids. The relay helps if your unit isn't dead already, but the Bosh unit is the only way to go.

Originally posted by Tusker
SeaBass, I had the same dilema (thanks for the Clawhammer reminder swafish :mad: ). Wouldn't restart when hot or cold/wet. Turned out to be bad starter (you know, the quality life-time guaranty jobie from Kragen's :flipoff2:). So I took it back. The next one did the same :flipoff2: :flipoff2: . Took it back, got my money back, and got a Bosh starter. That one works like a charm.

I am sure the problem was the sylenoid. Not starting when it is hot is a sure sign of a bad electrical connection/component. Mine would draw a lot of current, but wouldn't turn or even click at all. Is your's drawing a lot of current when you turn the key (my fan would slow way down when it was locked up)? The stock units are famous for having bad sylenoids. The relay helps if your unit isn't dead already, but the Bosh unit is the only way to go.

thx, I'm going to do the solinoid trick also, can't hurt:)