OK so I am not quiter ready to sell it but it is real close! I have spent more money than I care to admit to and it seems to always be something that I go way overboard fixing. I have tried to make all mods top notch with no cut corners.

So far, painless harness, 350-420-late three speed, 76 axles with 4 wheel disc, wheels tires, new paint inside and out and a new flat bed, Blah Blah Blah.....$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Today in the snow I needed 4x4 and it worked but it was noisy at various RPMs. WTF! Over...... If I lock the hubs and not the tcase no noise, If I unlock the hubs and engage the tcase no noise, with the two locked I get a whine and slight vibration at various RPM and under a load. I AM NOT HAPPY!

Any ideas? Offers?:(

mybe your front bearing is dry in t-case ?????

How much for the 45????????????????:beer:

Mike,
Where does the noise sound like it is coming from?
Front or tranny?
Did you run the clips in the front axle? (in the hubs)

Jason, I still have your springs if you want them. I was not able to return your message when you called.

I am almost sure that it is t-case noise. I guess that it could be the trans also but I have not noise in 2 wheel. I am not exactly sure what clips you mean but if it was stock then I would have put them back in.

hey mike!
i'll give you a C note for that hoopty!:flipoff2:

don't give up now bud, you're so close.
from what you've described the noise would have to be coming from the t-case , front drive shaft or the front axle.
have you checked the oil in the t-case. do you know the history of the t-case?
how are the u-joints in the front drive shaft( i assume they are new since everything else is). are you sure the drive line flanges/yokes are not bottoming out when you turn the drive line?
last but not least (for now until we can narrow this down) are you sure that you have matching gears (4.11's or whatever) in both axles?!
let me know. georg ;)

Georg, thanks for the reply.

Here is what I know.

Drained and refilled the tcase today, looks good.
No problems with axles, I have not screwed them up yet:rolleyes:
No major noise with case in neutral and running through gears
Get vibs with case in hi or low with or without front hubs locked
Tcase shifter hits hump in 4hi but not in 4low, same noise in both
No noise with hubs locked and tcase not if 4x4. Drive line spinning
Don't know the entire history of the case, told it was good

Would it help to take off the modified shifter and shift from underneath? Don't think so but thought I would ask

What about taking out the drive line and driving it, would that help with diagnostics.

I am afraid it looks like it will come out :mad:

keep reducing the variables in your front axle and you will succeed.

Don't let your rig get you down.

You've gone almost the entire resto drooling over this thing.

You will win!

Keep us posted......

i'd pull the front drive line and double check the u-joints. then go drive it in 4 hi and 4 low and see if the noise is still there without the front d.s.
let me know.:smokin:

Thanks guys. I will pull the front shaft on Wednesday and report back.

Mike, what DS are you runing? CV's can do wierd things when they go bad...
Keep us informed..

Update

The driveline guy thinks that the flanges are hitting the tranny when the RPMs go up. There is a very thin space there. It might only be a few sheets of paper thick. He thinks that a little more grinding is in order. There might be a little paint off of the flanges. What do you think? Is this possible?

if your u-joint on the t-case side is not new it would be possible for it to move a little under load and hit the tranny. my SM420 is ground down quite a bit...there is plenty of material there...so go ahead and grind away...I have also rounded the flanges on the t-case yoke and the shaft...gives even more clearance...

Don't give up...sounds like you are almost there!

Hey...my brother has lived in Carson for 15 years...he has a Red 70FJ40...it's a Beast, I'm sure you have seen it...his son has the Silver FJ40...another Beast...another son has a Green 69FJ40 and another has a Black 85 Mini...I have him to blame for giving me the Cruiser Disease...Got my 73 FJ40 in October of last year and almost have it ready to rock...good luck man!

hey mike!
i'd shave the flanges and the trans. that should take care of it.
now take a breath; you're doing good!:D

I have had the _exact_ same problem with two of my cruisers. No noise with hubs locked in 2 wheel, no noise with hubs unlocked, but in four wheel... but horrible grinding clunking shuddering in 4 wheel with hubs locked. Want to know what the problem was/is?

When most V8s are installed, the engine slants backwards slightly (for clearence and other reasons). What that means, is your entire drive line is slanted down, front to rear. Now, driveshaft angles are a bit of a science. There are many schools of thought, but the general rul of thumb: the upper angle must match the lower angle. OR, the lower angle can be 0 degrees, and the upper can be CV (see: Rotating knuckles).

Anyway, my upper driveshaft angle was more than my lower, because of the V8 install. Pull off your front shaft, and use an angle finder to see if there is any difference in the angle of the pinion yoke, and the transfercase output yoke. Every degree makes a difference.

A CV joint can often make things better, but it is really a band-aid. To really get things right, you may have to: body lift and raise the transfercase to level the driveline _or_ lower the engine _or_ cut/rotate the knuckles.

thats news to me, and have a pleasant tomorrow.

-B

-B

Hmmmmmm..... I need to give that a look. I had not really thought of that yet. I have not been able to muster up the energy yet to tackle it. I will yank the shaft, grind the hump
(can I say that) and check those angles.

Thanks

I will yank the shaft, grind the hump...

you should be in good shape if you remember to grease it up really well... :rolleyes:

b-sully is corect but I belive his
vibration or the v8 angle problem would
be less vibration than you are experiencing

and you could test his thery buty cheking
the angle of the transfer case then adding shims
to turn your axel output down word to the
same angle.

if vibration goes away he is corect if not


but I wouldnt recomend driveing it long distance with shims in it as this will afect the ability
of your tires to return to center.

I dont have enugh time to go into this properly
so buy

ps I RECOMEND GRINDING FIRST
AND YOU CAN GRIND A LOT ......

actually, if the drivetrain is pointed downward front to back, and you need to point the pinion down a bit to match the upper angle, you will be increasing your postive castor... which _greatly_ increases your handling. Positiv castor makes the wheels want to return to straight, and will be less wandering on the highway. I run close to 6 degrees of positive castor to make my cruiser handle better.

Mmmmm, castor.

-B

It was a good day! Yes it looks like I need to rotate the chunk down. That shoud do it. THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I got my 420 reverse light operating, all 4 of my turn signals are working(finished the painless kit - almost). I really have turn signals, brake lights, and a reverse light!

Any one know the wiring pattern on the 65 wiper motors? I have no idea.

I painted my kids play fort. I built a New Yankee workshop version. Wow what a project!

Junt needed to share, thanks for listening.:)

Originally posted by mikec
Get vibs with case in hi or low with or without front hubs locked
Tcase shifter hits hump in 4hi but not in 4low, same noise in both
No noise with hubs locked and tcase not if 4x4. Drive line spinning



Mike,
You need to sell it to me because that problem sounds fatal. :D

Actually if it doesn't have the vibration in 2wd, then it isn't a driveling angle problem. If it only does it in 4wd with the hubs locked, but not in 2wd with the hubs locked, then it is likely to be wear in the slip yoke spline. Yank that thing around and see if it moves. It should have no noticable slop.

There is no slop when I pull on it. I hope it is the shim thing.

Mike, how do you like that painless wiring kit? is it worth it? come with everything you needed? im thinking of going the route, let me know, Matt

The kit was great. I bought the universal version and it was easy to install. It does take time to do it right but overall very well worth it. The tech support is great. I call and say that the thingey magigger is pushing on the doodad and they know exactly what I am talking about and how to correct it the first time. Just yesterday I called to tell them that the right side was not flashing but was getting power. The bulb in my tail light was new. They said change the bulb first. Guess what, that was exacty it. Ok enough of that, yes good stuff and I would do it over rather than chase electrical gremlins ever again!

Mike,
One other silly thing you might want to check is the phasing of your front drive shaft. That will cause a loud irritating vibration just like you describe. You've probably already done this, but its just a thought :rolleyes: