Harbor Freight "horizontal/vertical" pipe bender

[6.2Blazer]

There has been quite a bit of talk about using sch. 40 pipe and a HF pipe bender, but the other day I noticed that HF lists the good ol' 12-ton pipe bender and a 12-ton "horizontal/vertical" pipe bender. I don't remember seeing the latter listed previously on their site.

The pictures look basically the same, but the specs do mention 90 degree bends and a longer jack handle with the "horizontal/vertical" version, and it costs about $25 more.

So what's the deal with this "horizontal/vertical" bender?

[OlBlueCJ7]

It's got springs on the ram so that it'll return the cylinder when it's postioned vertically is all. Looks at the pictures, you'll see the difference. Not worth the $25 imo. My base model one works just fine, in all positions.

[2000 "X"]

I have been looking at the same bender in HF and are they worth a dam? I want to make a xocage for my truck would this do the trick?

[glfredrick]

A post of this nature, after all the discussion previously on Pirate is subject to the ire of the board. But in short, for a non-competition rig, that mainly sees trail use -- the HF pipe bender and schedule 40 black pipe will work.

A good many people have done it, including this poster, with good results. It won't pass tech at a major rock crawling meet, but it will save your bacon on the trail.

Have at it. Oh -- do a simple search for pipe bender and read all the rest of the discussions here at POR.

[Toonces75]

I saw a friend use the Harbor Frieght Bender this weekend. It seemed to be ok to me. I am no pro, but I am going to get me one today.

[glfredrick]

A couple of tricks that I have learned using mine...

1. Cut a piece of larger pipe/tube and use it to sleeve over the roller wheels so they don't dimple the pipe you are bending. This will allow you to make tighter bends very cleanly.

2. Use a magnetic angle finder and a large carpenter's square to figure out bend angles. Know that there is some "spring back" when you bend, so you will have to bend a tad more than you want to count for the spring back. Figure out the first leg, then duplicate that for mirror bends.

3. An engine stand makes an almost perfect attachment point for the bender. Just drill a couple of holes in the flat metal supports on the bender and hang it on there. You can then swivel the bender to almost any angle as you work a bend. It also lets you roll it around as you work, but doesn't affect the bending process because, unlike benders that you have to pull against, the HF bender bends against itself.

4. Bend slowly, and watch where the seam in the pipe goes. There are different opinions about where it should be, but I generally put it on the inside, where it has to bend the least so it doesn't stretch the weld so much. I've never popped one, but why take the chance.

Otherwise, I've found that the bender is great -- and inexpensive -- for general use projects, and for the type of work for general trail rider rigs.

[jot017]

I picked one a couple of weeks ago, it is the same as the 12 ton, just the return springs like someone mentioned. I like it. I lay it on it's back when i've got a whole stick of pipe in it so then when i release the pressure it retracts pretty quick. I'm getting ready to build a cage with for my rig, but i'm building a couple of other things first so i can get use to the bends and how it bends at different lengths.

[4x401cj]

Go with the regular model, no need for the spring return. I`ve used my HF bender for many projects and found the only drawback to be not getting a bend much past 90 deg. Glfredrick, thanks for the engine stand idea, that should make positioning much easier. :beer: :beer:

[glfredrick]

Go with the regular model, no need for the spring return. I`ve used my HF bender for many projects and found the only drawback to be not getting a bend much past 90 deg. Glfredrick, thanks for the engine stand idea, that should make positioning much easier. :beer: :beer:

I can't take any credit for that idea... I got if from another earlier Pirate thread about the benders. Someone's almost always innovating something before everyone else... :D It sure does work good, though.

[Toonces75]

I bought the HF bender and its seems to be ok to me. I have been working on making some tube doors..........so far so good:D

[jot017]

Cool, post some pics up when you're finished, i'm working on the same thing, should be finished tomorrow!

[coachgeo]

A couple of tricks that I have learned using mine...

1. Cut a piece of larger pipe/tube and use it to sleeve over the roller wheels so they don't dimple the pipe you are bending. This will allow you to make tighter bends very cleanly.....

Could you give more detail on this. I have heard of puting tin as a spacer in the dies to accomidate the OD difference between Pipe and tube. I have not heard of your sleave idea but am eager to understand it. Can you take a pic?

[glfredrick]

Could you give more detail on this. I have heard of puting tin as a spacer in the dies to accomidate the OD difference between Pipe and tube. I have not heard of your sleave idea but am eager to understand it. Can you take a pic?

I could do some pics, but it is really simple. I just take a tube sized larger than the OD of the pipe I'm bending, slice off about 6" of it, then split it lengthwise to get two halves. Stick one of the halves under each of the rollers so that your pipe doesn't get the kinks while bending. Instead of rolling on the rollers, the tube will slide inside the sleeves. (In thinking about it, I guess that you could also just stick un-cut pieces of tube over the pipe to do the same thing, except for having to work it on and off the tube as you bent.)

When I looked at more expensive benders, I noticed that the dies were longer, hence distributed the force over a larger section of tube while bending. I just wanted to duplicate that idea cheaply, so I came up with the sleeve idea. It works perfectly, except that you have to stick it in place before each bend. I can now shorten up the radius of the bends instead of having the rollers sit way to the outside of the rack (the recommended fix for "dimples" in the pipe).

Here is a pic. You can see the sleeves if you look closely at the roller.

[Toonces75]

Here is my problem that I have hit tonight. I have 1.75 tube at something like .0239 or close to it. The HF bender is flattening and crinkling my tube.... it did great on the 1 inch. Seeing how there is no exact die to fit a 1/3/4 I tried the 2' the 1/1/2 and the 1/1/4 all did the same thing so I am really dissapointed now....... I will keep it to do small stuff but I dont know what eles to try any ideas......:barf:

[Toonces75]

What diameter tube should I be using........the metal shop guy said what he gave me what the same stuff everyone is using to make cages? I give up I am going to build a wooden cage...........:confused:

[sixty]

You need to use PIPE not tube. 1-1/4" sched 40 pipe is around 1.66" OD & 1-1/2" is around 1.9" O.D.

Pipe is much cheaper than tube but do a search on the board to see the differences & make oyur own opinion.

[coachgeo]

Here is my problem that I have hit tonight. I have 1.75 tube at something like .0239 or close to it. The HF bender is flattening and crinkling my tube.... it did great on the 1 inch. Seeing how there is no exact die to fit a 1/3/4 I tried the 2' the 1/1/2 and the 1/1/4 all did the same thing so I am really dissapointed now....... I will keep it to do small stuff but I dont know what eles to try any ideas......:barf:

From what I read you have to use the 2" die and shim it with tin or ??till it snugly fits your 1/34 tube and snugly fits inside the 2" die.

orrrrr.. you take your dies down to the place where you can buy tube and you find one strong enough for a cage AND fits snugly inside one of your dies. I think there is ONE that fits exact. A search in this board will come up with it. Last time I saw the thead with this info it was NOT in this forum. Maybe in general 4x4? Someone might pop in and let us know.

[coachgeo]

I could do some pics, but it is really simple. I just take a tube sized larger than the OD of the pipe I'm bending, slice off about 6" of it, then split it lengthwise to get two halves. ...When I looked at more expensive benders, I noticed that the dies were longer, ...

Here is a pic. You can see the sleeves if you look closely at the roller.
Thanks for the pic. I was not clear if you were doing as pictured or if you were putting 1/2 a piece of tube on the roller to increase it's circumfrence. The pic explains it.

What have you found to be the best way too split the piece lengthwise?

[coachgeo]

You need to use PIPE not tube. ... My understanding, and I could be wrong is that there is one TUBE size that is extremely close to one of the pipe sizes. Because of this it works well with this bender.

[coachgeo]

What diameter tube should I be using........the metal shop guy said what he gave me what the same stuff everyone is using to make cages? ........:confused:
Everyone else is not cheap shits like us and use a normal tube bender :smokin: you gota find that magic OD and ID tube that fits the pipe dies. Or modify your dies.

[coachgeo]

I did some searching and came up with below quotes

. just go to the metal yard and buy 1.90 x .134 wall tubing. It will work fine in the 1 1/2" pipe die
. I thread the inside of the tubing with a pipe tap then fill it with water.
. I have heard to use sand.
. Difference (between tube bender and pipe bender) is primarily the size of the dies. I've found that you can take a piece of sheet metal about the length and width of the die and wrap it around the tube where you want your bend. Then make the bend slowly. The force of the bender will form the sheet metal into a little shim that takes the slack out of the die. It will also stay in the die and you can make multiple bends...This helps quite a bit. A tubing bender is still easier to use but this will make your bender useable
. My dad bought on of these a while back, all it would do was kink stuff. The more we looked at it we noticed the dies didn't fit the pipe very well. So we heated them with a "rosebud" tip on the torch and beat them into shape. Cleaned them up with the grinder where they swelled a little from hitting them and now it works great.
1) Go Slow, if you try to pump them up fast they kink everytime
2) After the pipe tightens against the rollers 1 stroke of the ram is about 1 degree.
3) Be sure you aren't trying to bend too tight of a radius

These are all from this thread
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=315475&highlight=Pipe+bender+tube

[65Chevy4x4]

to make it work for tube you get a die smaller than the actual tube that your gonna be ebdning, than you grind out the die until the 1 3/4 tube fits tight in it. You should be able to get close to a 90* angle out of it. I did this on mine and built my whole interior roll cage and bedcage and engine cage with it.

[glfredrick]

Thanks for the pic. I was not clear if you were doing as pictured or if you were putting 1/2 a piece of tube on the roller to increase it's circumfrence. The pic explains it.

What have you found to be the best way too split the piece lengthwise?

I used a chop saw.

I tried bending thin-walled tube once and had the same flattening problem. No problems bending pipe, however. It just smokes right around.

[coachgeo]

here is something I wrote sometime back.

"What about having some hardass tube bent by a pro in a curve that is equivilant curve and cup to a die you want. Cut the thing lengthwise in half. Weld one half to the underside of the other half to increase the strength. Now you have something equivialant in shape to the part of a die that cups the tube as you bend.

Now weld a plate on each side with some other gusseting. Another words, build a hollow die. Curved side is made up of the bent tube you cut lenghtwise to form the convex shape.

Drill holes where neccissary and tada..... home made die.

Will this work? or does my description totaly confuse you?
__________________

[jot017]

I see what you are saying and i guess that would work if you could get it all lined up and squared. But why not buy pipe instead of tubing??

[coachgeo]

... why not buy pipe instead of tubing?? Some say it is not strong enough for things like cages. Do a search of this board for hmmm... "Pipe Tube" and you should find all the arguments for and against using pipe.

[glfredrick]

Some say it is not strong enough for things like cages. Do a search of this board for hmmm... "Pipe Tube" and you should find all the arguments for and against using pipe.

It would be great if we could just save this discussion for the bender itself, and leave the pipe/tube stuff to the threads that deal with that subject! Good suggestion about the search. :D

[jot017]

Been using the bender a lot the past couple of days. Last night and this morning i had problems with it need bled. Would that be from laying it on it back when i bend with it and then releasing it and letting the air circulate?

I also couldn't get a piece of 1-1/4: sch 80 to bend a 90. I would just pancake the bend, but a piece of sch 40 bends a 90 just beautifully.

[andyr354]

Does the sch80 measure the same OD as the sch40? I think pipe is spec by ID and the outer changes with thickness. The sch80 is most likely not fitting down in the die correctly and flattening it.

[jot017]

Now that i think about it, you are right. I knew that pipe was ID and it never occured to me that it was a larger OD since it's thicker. What an idiot! :shaking:

[Toonces75]

today was a new day, yes I am new to making a cage....... I made some calls to some off road shops and I bought the wrong stuff yesturday. today I bought schedule 40 seamless PIPE at $4.35 a foot and the HF bender redeemed itself with me. I finished the front hoop on my cage in about 2 hours, It took time and patience, bending checking and on and on......but came out good. HF bender says on the side of it , that it is a Pipe bender, I just assumed that tube was the same, I was wrong.....not the first time.... tube is also only $1.59 a foot.....and the HF bender does not like it at all.. once I finish the cage I will post pics on a New thread about the HF bender, thanks for all the input and help even know this is not my thead,,,,,,,I am still learning........:)

[coachgeo]

... once I finish the cage I will post pics on a New thread ...

As mentioned above lets not get into the Tube -vs- Pipe debate in here BUTTTTTTTTT.... I caution you to NOW do a search and fully read alot of the threads on this board that discuss the debate. Ask questions you may have IN THOSE THREADS. After reading all that then decide if you are comfortable with making a cage out of Pipe.

[crawldaddy]

Check out my build, I used the HF bender for the whole thing. I did have to do a little work to one of the die's to with with 1.50 tube. It suck's ass to use for a big project but it will get the jod done.

[pmurf1]

today was a new day, yes I am new to making a cage....... I made some calls to some off road shops and I bought the wrong stuff yesturday. today I bought schedule 40 seamless PIPE at $4.35 a foot and the HF bender redeemed itself with me.

$4.35 for "seamless" sched 40 pipe, something doesn't add up unless you went to some exotic metal place, not your run of the mill steel yard. I'd love to see pics of this, but it has to have a weld somewhere on it if it's sch 40, it just may not seem like it. I could believe that price for some DOM thinwall 1.75". Are you sure they didn't sell you some .200" wall sched 80 pipe? That stuff bends nicely, just a little heavier.

[coachgeo]

Check out my build, I used the HF bender for the whole thing. I did have to do a little work to one of the die's to with with 1.50 tube. It suck's ass to use for a big project but it will get the jod done.

Could you please describe the work you did to the die?

[jot017]

$4.35 for "seamless" sched 40 pipe, something doesn't add up unless you went to some exotic metal place, not your run of the mill steel yard. I'd love to see pics of this, but it has to have a weld somewhere on it if it's sch 40, it just may not seem like it. I could believe that price for some DOM thinwall 1.75". Are you sure they didn't sell you some .200" wall sched 80 pipe? That stuff bends nicely, just a little heavier.

That's actually about right for retail. I bought my sch 80 for 10% over cost and it was like 3.30 a foot.

[generalee7]

Check out my build, I used the HF bender for the whole thing. I did have to do a little work to one of the die's to with with 1.50 tube. It suck's ass to use for a big project but it will get the jod done.

I was just wondering what modifications you did to the bender in order to get nice smooth bends out of it with DOM tube, thanks!

Also, how does one bleed this thing? Mine doesn't even pump anymore so I'm assuming it needs to be bled :flipoff2:

[jot017]

Also, how does one bleed this thing? Mine doesn't even pump anymore so I'm assuming it needs to be bled :flipoff2:

Ah, welcome to my world. I've done this twice in the last two days. Here is how i did it.

Pumped up the ram
took out the rubber plug off the back side of the body of the jack
put in some fluid (not much, i just put in some cause it looked cool :D )
release the ram and push it all the way down
then fill it up with fluid

Should be good to go. i don't know why mine was difficult the past two days.

[coachgeo]

Ah, welcome to my world. I've done this twice in the last two days.
Which of you with this problem are using ones NOT listed for horizontal use? Which of you two have ones with the springs on it that are said to be ok for horizontal use?

[jot017]

Mine has the springs.

[coachgeo]

Mine has the springs.Thanks. So yours is rated to be OK for horizontal. Least that is my understanding. Have you been using it Horizontal or vertical lately?

[jot017]

Both. I'm just wondering if laying it on its back while bending and then releasing it when done is letting the air get circulated?

[coachgeo]

Both. I'm just wondering if laying it on its back while bending and then releasing it when done is letting the air get circulated? well my background is in biomechanics not engineering buttttttt.... I would think the idea of the spring is to keep an inward presure on the post at all times thus not allowing any air space to be created. This means you have an air leak? AKA cheap construction. Something ya just got live with unless you find a fix?

[jot017]

Yeah i gotcha. Of course we are talking a HF tool here. Although when i start to pull that rubber plug out, it does have a vacuum inside cause i can hear it sucking. I'm thinking it's just leaking a little bit around the release valve.

[bspencer]

my problem is that ive been told not to use the black iron pipe from Lowes etc......

so where should i get it at.?.......what kind of place should carry it?

[bspencer]

Yeah i gotcha. Of course we are talking a HF tool here. Although when i start to pull that rubber plug out, it does have a vacuum inside cause i can hear it sucking. I'm thinking it's just leaking a little bit around the release valve.


josh...you better get that cage done before you head back to swiss with us!



:flipoff2:

[45acp]

my problem is that ive been told not to use the black iron pipe from Lowes etc......

so where should i get it at.?.......what kind of place should carry it?Any place that sells steel. Is there nothing in your area that sells tubing or pipe other than Lowes?

[glfredrick]

my problem is that ive been told not to use the black iron pipe from Lowes etc......

so where should i get it at.?.......what kind of place should carry it?

I agree with the Lowes deal... Their pipe is definately lower quality than good US made pipe. I get mine from a local plumbing supplier. Check out the yeller pages... Sometimes they even have a stack of bent stuff that I pick up for $20 to their party fund...

I've even found that the pipe at Home Depot is better than Lowes, FWIW.

[jot017]

josh...you better get that cage done before you head back to swiss with us!



:flipoff2:


LOL, i hear ya. Could have a whole other Explorer by then, but that's another story.

You aren't that far from me, you want some let me know. I work for McJunkin and thats what we do, oil and gas field supplier, so i've got pipe out the ying yang. Any grade any size.

[crawldaddy]

Could you please describe the work you did to the die?
All I did was add some steal to it to build up the inside of it. Then fill in the gap's with your welder, after that grind it smooth.

Also, how does one bleed this thing? Mine doesn't even pump anymore so I'm assuming it needs to be bled

I don't now I have never had to:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

[timberwolftaco]

I ran into the same thing on trying to use the HF kinker with pipe or tubing. It would flat spot and kink if you used the 2" die with 2" pipe. I finally "solved" this problem by using the next smaller die size which allows the pipe to rest at the very top of the die. However, this is only good for about 45 degs.

I finally bought steel to build my own manual bender using an 8 ton ram. It uses the protools/jd2 die sets. Total in steel was $81 and the jack was $50 at HF.

[redrangie]

I have a love hate relationship with this thing. I did something yesterday while doing some pipe for a new front bumper. I took some bearing grease, and slathered the roller axles and the inside of the roller dies, as well as the face of the die itself. Not much on the die, just what was left on my rubber gloves.

Layed it horizontal, (had always used it vertical before) and viola, perfect bends, without filling with sand...

fwiw.

[Howling]

This thread has got me thinking real hard about the HF bender.I might have to get one for some projects I have been thinkig about.Since I'm a union pipefitter buy trade I can get a good deal of pipe for free.:D

[coachgeo]

This thread has got me thinking real hard about the HF bender.I might have to get one for some projects I have been thinkig about.Since I'm a union pipefitter buy trade I can get a good deal of pipe for free.:DAgain I will sugest you fully read all the info about pipe -vs- Tube before making any cage like stuff with pipe. Make a decision from this on what you're willing to do.

[6.2Blazer]

Again I will sugest you fully read all the info about pipe -vs- Tube before making any cage like stuff with pipe. Make a decision from this on what you're willing to do.

Good advice...........but keep in mind my original post on this thread was simply asking about the difference with the "horizontal/vertical" bender and the regular one.......not about whether you should use pipe or not..........

[Howling]

I don't plan on building a cage with pipe just bumpers,sliders and some links.I will use tube for a cage.

I have a H.F. store near by so I'll probably get the bender and start practicing.

[sixty]

I've spent the last 3 days working with this bender on some schedule 40 1-1/4 & 1-1/2".

the 1-1/4" bent beautifully with no sand/gravel and would bend up to 100* with only slight dimples.

Then I went to 1-1/2 and thats where i had trouble. Without sand or gravel the pipe would kink VERY badly at probably 30* no matter where the rollers were mounted. I then filled the pipe with sand and it bent a full 90 but there was a 1/2" wide kink right at the center of the bend and the bend looked a little flat. I then tried gravel and the bends were not as good as sand, but far better than no fill. I then looked at the die and notice that it was not nearly as smooth as the 1-1/4" and there is a void in the casting about 1/16" deep and the size of a nickle right in the center of the die (directly above the ram). This void coresponded directly with the kink on the inside of the bend. The die also has a bunch of paint drips and splatters that I think are affecting the the bends also.

Hopefully if I get time I will be able to take the bender back and get the die exchanged with a better one and maybe get the jack replaced also (it leaked a littlefrom the ram), other wise its weld & grind & sand time :(

Has anyone had similar experiences or had no problem bending 1-1/2" sched. 40?

Also the benders owners manual stated that all sched. 40 pipe needs to be filled with sand or the bend will kink. I had no problems at all with the 1-1/4" pipe.

edit: I was also using high quality pipe from a steel supplier & no matter where the seam was located in the bend the results were always the same with both size pipe.

[generalee7]

Thanks for the info sixty. All I've been bending in mine is 1 1/2". Have yet to try 1 1/4" pipe. For my front bumper, I got no folds on the inside of the bend using 1 1/2" but on my girlfriends bumper, a few folds were visible. Guess I'll have to try bending 1 1/4" and see what it does :grinpimp:

[sixty]

Thanks for the info sixty. All I've been bending in mine is 1 1/2". Have yet to try 1 1/4" pipe. For my front bumper, I got no folds on the inside of the bend using 1 1/2" but on my girlfriends bumper, a few folds were visible. Guess I'll have to try bending 1 1/4" and see what it does :grinpimp:

no problem... i was stoked when bending the 1-1/4 cause they looked just like they came out of a jd2 until the went past 90 but still looked good even 5-10* past 90.

Do you fill your pipe w/ sand/ gravel? How many degrees (roughly) are your bends?

I have a feeling that the poor quality on the die is causing my grief but maybe not :confused:

[Haggar]

On mine, I've done pretty good with 1 1/4" schedule 40 (A500 structural grade B). I can usually go 70 degrees without kinking, although I've had a few times where it just started to 'pre-kink'.. I have yet to try filling the pipe with sand. I think I want to try smoothing the die a bit and also using grease on it.

I have no worries using A500 grade B for my cage work. Yes, I am an engineer, and have had plenty of materials work and statics/dymanics, etc.. i'd never build anything structural out of home depot unknown black pipe, though, although I've used it in a pinch for some brush-guard type applications where I'm not too worried about my safety..


I've also noticed that with mine, that I also get bleed problems using it horizontally. But vertically, its been fine, so I'll keep using it that way, even though its not as easy for layout purposes..

[sixty]

Haggar,

Have you tried moving the rollers? I had mine three holes out from the center & used some halved 2" pipe covering on the roller as talked about at the beginning of this thread. Set up this way the 1-1/4 sched. 40 bent beautifully.

The pipe I was using is just standard schedule 40 black steel pipe which i assume is just the regular 32ksi stuff. Maybe the A500 46ksi stuff is more rigid and causing the kinks. Otherwise look closely at your die. My 1-1/4" die is smooth and even.

filling with sand and gravel will also most likely fix your problem. I found it was not that much to fill the pipe before bending, just cardboard & tape (I used old spring bushings I had lying around that fit well) the ends shut & fill.


I tried greasing the 1-1/2" die & it just made it worse.

[generalee7]

no problem... i was stoked when bending the 1-1/4 cause they looked just like they came out of a jd2 until the went past 90 but still looked good even 5-10* past 90.

Do you fill your pipe w/ sand/ gravel? How many degrees (roughly) are your bends?

I have a feeling that the poor quality on the die is causing my grief but maybe not :confused:

I don't fill the tubes with sand, I feel that it takes too long to fill it and drain it completely. My bends are roughly 90*. I took a dremel to the 1 1/2" die and cleaned it up a little bit but it still didn't help.

Has anyone thought about finding some more 1 1/2" dies and welding them end to end? Like say cut a die in half (perpendicular to where the die sits) and weld both of those pieces to either end of the good die. That way, instead of having one die that is like 120* (I'm guessing on that one), you now have one die that is like 210*.

IMHO, if you can weld those pieces straight, you would be able to get nicer bends past 90*.

Has anyone thought of doing this before?

[sixty]

I don't fill the tubes with sand, I feel that it takes too long to fill it and drain it completely. My bends are roughly 90*. I took a dremel to the 1 1/2" die and cleaned it up a little bit but it still didn't help.
[QUOTE]

If I bend the 1.5 w/o sand I get 1 big kink with an inside radius of less than 1"

It has to be my die. Where do you put the rollers? I tried 3 out from the center & then 4 out from the center. I did not try 5 out because there was no difference between 3 & 4.

[QUOTE=generalee7]

Has anyone thought about finding some more 1 1/2" dies and welding them end to end? Like say cut a die in half (perpendicular to where the die sits) and weld both of those pieces to either end of the good die. That way, instead of having one die that is like 120* (I'm guessing on that one), you now have one die that is like 210*.

IMHO, if you can weld those pieces straight, you would be able to get nicer bends past 90*.

Has anyone thought of doing this before?


That sounds like a good idea, on the 1-1/4" I bet I could go well beyond 90* I have no idea where to source the dies without the bender though.

[generalee7]

[QUOTE=generalee7]I don't fill the tubes with sand, I feel that it takes too long to fill it and drain it completely. My bends are roughly 90*. I took a dremel to the 1 1/2" die and cleaned it up a little bit but it still didn't help.
[QUOTE]

If I bend the 1.5 w/o sand I get 1 big kink with an inside radius of less than 1"

It has to be my die. Where do you put the rollers? I tried 3 out from the center & then 4 out from the center. I did not try 5 out because there was no difference between 3 & 4.




That sounds like a good idea, on the 1-1/4" I bet I could go well beyond 90* I have no idea where to source the dies without the bender though.

I would find someone that doesn't use their HF bender and offer them a few beers for a die :laughing:

It's weird that yours are kinking so bad. I tried to bend square tube (bad idea) and it kinked that same way. My bends with 1 1/2" look fine but just a little bit wrinkled on the inside. I'm not sure what causes that but I would sure like to figure it out!

[generalee7]

I think I put the rollers on the second from the farthest one. I'm not sure which one that is from the middle :D

[kozaz]

I bought the 40 ton HF Pipe bender, and I can not wait to make either a press or a tube bender with a 40 ton hand pump (instead of a 8 ft cheater bar) out of it. I just can't make up my mind which one I should use it for?

[generalee7]

I'm not sure I understand what you are talking about? You bought a 40 ton pipe bender from Harbor Freight but don't know if you should use it for a press or a bender? WTF?

[Fordman500]

You guys think it would be sufficent to build a little 2wd dune buggy frame? Just a small little one seater with a motorcycle engine?

[sixty]

Quick update,
I exchanged the bender on saturday & the 1.5" die works flawlessly. I bent the last piece of 1.5" lying around put it in the bender & bent it as fast as I could to 90*. Besides slight kinking on the inside of the radius it bent perfectly with no sand or gravel in the pipe.

the moral to all this is if you get a bender & it kinks the pipe, exchange it!

also they let me keep the 1.25" die so I may try building a die with a larger radius so i can make clean bends well past 90* like Generalee's suggestion. I'll post up if I try it.

Here are some pics of the stuff I built over the last few weeks with my bender:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=74680

[VerticalTRX]

While this thread is about the HF bender, I just bought a Northern tool 12-ton bender and I'm very happy with it. I've used it to bend all of the tube for my tube bed, and got the main tube for the roll-cage bent (6 bends on 2 axis). Up to 90* it makes bends as nice as any other tube bender I've seen, I haven't had a need to go past 90* yet so I don't know how it will do past that.

The only drawback is that it absolutely will not work in the horizontal position. The ram just runs out of available fluid when you get to about 120*. To fix this I mounted it atop a 10' tall step ladder to allow for a full 21' joint of pipe to be bent in the vertical position. I will say it is quite terrifying trying to maneuver a 21' stick of 2" OD pipe into the bender by yourself when its 10' up in the air.

As for the material I'm using, its sch. 40 1.5" structural pipe (not sure what class), costs $64 a stick at the local metal supply place. It's almost exactly 2" OD and is very nice looking pipe, about as good at welded seam tubing. As stated before, I would never buy black iron pipe from lowes for anything other than plumbing. It truly is poop pipe, and is of very, very low quality and I'm sure is not rated for anything structural.

[coachgeo]

While this thread is about the HF bender, I just bought a Northern tool 12-ton bender and I'm very happy with it. I've used it to bend all of the tube .... As for the material I'm using, its sch. 40 1.5" structural pipe ..l.

For sake of avoiding confusion it would be best that we all do our part to be consistent with terms. Pipe and Tube are very different. You spoke of bending "tube" sucessfully in the first part. Your later statement clarifies that it was not tube but actually sch 40 "pipe". As you know Very different bending results can occur with tube when done with a "pipe" bender.

[coachgeo]

Has anyone tried putting a strap and springs on their verticle bender to see if this allows it to be used on its side? Look the pic below of one that is said to be "Horizontal" version. It has a strap with springs to keep a constant compression force on the piston at all times.
http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B0007ZL6II.01-A8QVA2VP18VAT._SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg
This should keep the fluid compressed at all times and not allow any fluidless space to form. If this happens the thing wont work in a horz position, assuming I understand the physics of this right. I don't know if there is any other things different inside the unit such as different seals. Just wondering if adding springs to other pumps will let them opperate on their sides too.

So once again..... anyone tried putting springs on theirs? YOu can buy the strap and springs as parts from HF, probably from Northern Tool too. They wont list parts like this. You have to talk to a tech. guy to get the part #'s

Anyone with a horizontal Pipe bender-
. can you take your springs down to a hardware store and compare them to what is in stock there? Check the tension (pull on the things) and let us know which ones are simular.
. Can you give us some details on how the springs are hooked too the frame and pump?

[jot017]

The springs are pretty tough. I've had mine off. The top hook just hooks into a hole in the plate the goes around the neck of the ram, on the bottom, it hooks into and eye bolt, nothing that anyone couldn't add to it.

[coachgeo]

The springs are... it hooks into .... Thanks

[VerticalTRX]

For sake of avoiding confusion it would be best that we all do our part to be consistent with terms. Pipe and Tube are very different. You spoke of bending "tube" sucessfully in the first part. Your later statement clarifies that it was not tube but actually sch 40 "pipe". As you know Very different bending results can occur with tube when done with a "pipe" bender.

Very true, however I still refer to it all as tube work, i.e. a tube bed, cage, sliders, etc even though its technically made out of pipe. People tend to look at you funny if you say you have a 'pipe chassis' rig, lol.

[sixty]

Coachgeo,
I have the verticle bender & the dies that came with it have holes that you could attach the springs to. I have been using mine horizontally and the ram started to leak after 2 or 3 bends. I had no problems with having to bleed the ram, it always worked like new.

Edit: I'm not sure if the ram leaked from being used horizontal or not. I do not recall the manual stating that the bender should not be used horizontally.

[coachgeo]

Coachgeo,
I have the verticle bender & the dies that came with it have holes that you could attach the springs to.
springs on horizontal pipe bender do not attach to the dies. see picture posted earlier in this thread
I have been using mine horizontally and the ram started to leak after 2 or 3 bends. I had no problems with having to bleed the ram, it always worked like new. Glad to hear that bleeding helped. That answers some questions. How did you bleed it? Just opened it a crack while it was under compression and burped air out then closed it back quick? Oh wait......think I read earlier in this thread about how you burbed it. My bad.
Edit: I'm not sure if the ram leaked from being used horizontal or not. I do not recall the manual stating that the bender should not be used horizontally.

[sixty]

Actually, I never had to bleed it. Eventhough it leaked, it still pumped just as hard. I'm pretty sure it was defective, as the new one bends horizontally and does not leak from the ram. I see no reason to use the springs except for convienience to automatically retract the ram.

[Haggar]

For sake of avoiding confusion it would be best that we all do our part to be consistent with terms. Pipe and Tube are very different. You spoke of bending "tube" sucessfully in the first part. Your later statement clarifies that it was not tube but actually sch 40 "pipe". As you know Very different bending results can occur with tube when done with a "pipe" bender.

It can be tough sometimes :) At my local steel yard, A500 is specifically called structural tubing, even though its pipe sized. Its the same standard as used for things like 2x2" square as well, so they just call it tube.

[Haggar]

Haggar,

Have you tried moving the rollers? I had mine three holes out from the center & used some halved 2" pipe covering on the roller as talked about at the beginning of this thread. Set up this way the 1-1/4 sched. 40 bent beautifully.

The pipe I was using is just standard schedule 40 black steel pipe which i assume is just the regular 32ksi stuff. Maybe the A500 46ksi stuff is more rigid and causing the kinks. Otherwise look closely at your die. My 1-1/4" die is smooth and even.

filling with sand and gravel will also most likely fix your problem. I found it was not that much to fill the pipe before bending, just cardboard & tape (I used old spring bushings I had lying around that fit well) the ends shut & fill.


I tried greasing the 1-1/2" die & it just made it worse.


Thanks for the tips, I'll be bending up a winch bumper next month, and will try playing with the roller spacing and some gravel.

Overall, my experience has been pretty good. For $70, its worth it. Heck, with the 20% off coupons, you can get it out the door under $60.