I asked this in the TOTW, but it went unanswered.

Is grinding out stock stub shafts, in order to use full circle clips a good idea? I ordered a set of Moser inner shafts, but don't have the $ right now for some quality stubs.

In guestimating how much material would have to be removed I decided it would probably make the yokes too weak. Anybody ever do this, and what were the results?

Thanks,

i have seen prople do this with a lilling machine but yes i did a full set of scout d44 shafts with a grinder one time. it worked fine. he only thing i did was make sure you don't grind into the thickness of the ear. give it a shot, it works.

easier to just tack the cap to the stub in 2 spots. but if you have the time the full circle rings would work, just remember to grind out your spare stubs also.:D

Did it w/ cutoff wheels to my D30 shafts a couple years ago. They never broke a joint again as long as I had the Jeep, but every so often would egg the hole out and rip off the strap around the cap. :nuke:
Seemed like the ujoints held a hell of a lot better after that little mod.

Chris,

I did it too. F150 stubs with Moser inners. used a 4.5" grinder and an air powered cutoff.

No problem to date

the u-joint held up better? or is this another urban legend?:D

Anybody got pics of this grindage?

SeanP

Originally posted by FULLSIZE
the u-joint held up better? or is this another urban legend?:D

it would last longer if your failures were based on spitting out caps, but I think if you have good condition shafts the little C-clips are plenty good.

I used a Dremel and a few tiny grinding stones on my D44 shafts and stubs after I had a cap spit out. Its held up real well.

The problem is the caps can rotate in the yoke when pushed hard at an angle. This rotation pops that half-round clip off. Its more of a problem on axles that have had more than one U-joint in them, but still happens sometimes on original ones.

Where are u guys getting the full circle clips from :question: :beer:

I originally got mine from an independent auto parts guy near me, but shortly afterwards, I saw them at,.. of all places, Home Depot.
They are a 1 3/16" external type for a Spicer 297.

I modified some stock D44 shafts for full circlips using a portable band saw. I just cut about 1/8" into the yoke following the flat underside of the strap area and then nipped the little piece of metal off at a 90degree to the first cut. I didn't remove much metal, but now there is room for full circlips. Also, most circlips are thinner than the C-clips, so your joint will be a tad loose compared to using the c-clips, but most people just run that way anyway. I purchased a little kit from Bill at (damn, I can't remember the name of the place but it is in the Pacific Northwest.) The kit had the circlips and small spacers that fit inside the caps of Spicer 297 u-joints. Jeff

I freehanded mine in the chop saw. Went just deep enough so that I could get the clip in around the U-Joint. So far, it's holding up great.

Interesting -- sounds like quite a few folks hot-ground them and have suffered no failures.

Methinks this would be less of an affect on the axle's heat-treat if you cold-ground them... anyone like water sports?

Randii

Originally posted by randii
Interesting -- sounds like quite a few folks hot-ground them and have suffered no failures.
Methinks this would be less of an affect on the axle's heat-treat if you cold-ground them... anyone like water sports?
Randii

Are you saying that grinding the stubs creates enough heat to affect the heat-treating?

I don't think my Makita angle grinder would take kindly to a shower while grinding.:D

I don't think my DeWalt Chop saw would like a bath either. My stub shafts take a beating with the low gears and 38" tires and haven't broken yet, so I don't think it's an issue.

Anybody find these 1 3/16" bastards in the East Bay???

I've been to Dale's, OSH, Home Dumpo, Napa, The Parts House, I'm striking out, and I need them by this weekend.:(

I had a clip pop out one day and the cap walked out just far enough to catche the very top of the lower joint stud. I sheared the stud off and did not hurt the joint or the cap. Wow. :eek:
So, I just tacked the clips and the caps, not a problem. Just need the die grinder on the trail to change to a spare.

I considered that, but I thought that created more stress on the caps cuz they were supposed to be able to spin if needed. You have any caps explode on you as a result of tacking them in?

Originally posted by cbassett
I considered that, but I thought that created more stress on the caps cuz they were supposed to be able to spin if needed. You have any caps explode on you as a result of tacking them in?

Never have broke a joint. 297's are plenty stong for a poser rig.

Are the caps really supposed to be able to spin. I thought that was a bad thing:confused:

Are you saying that grinding the stubs creates enough heat to affect the heat-treating?
I'm thinkin' yes.

Are the caps really supposed to be able to spin.
NO! They are damn near a press fit, spinning much at all would ream out the hole! All the spinning is supposed to be absorbed by the needle bearings inside the cap.

Randii

Poseur rigs r us! It's not like we're driving Xterras!:D

Hmm, well thanks for clearing that up.

It was mentioned on here a couple times in the past, that folks blamed the caps exploding on tacking them in place.

I was thinking about this a little more tonight, and decided putting a retaining tack on the yoke ears and overlapping the caps would be a good compromise.

Chris,

I actually did both...Moser inners came prepped for the full circle clips, I homebrew prepped the f150 stubs for full clips.

I tacked the caps in the f150 stubs, but couldn;t bring myself to do it on the new lloy inners.

Neither have broken in a year.

But I'm not too gutsy with the loud pedal either.

Bill