I'm going to be setting up my first set of gears in a few weeks and I want to know if the advice I got was BS or not. I have an xj with a 44/30 combo and I'm installing a detroit locker/truetrac with 4.88's. I was told that the best way to set the pinion depth is to just take the shims off the stock pinion shaft and put them right on the new pinion gear, I shouldn't need to remove the pinion bearing once its pressed on with the old shims.. It sounds a little to easy but is it likely this will work? I know the gear pattern will tell the truth about it..And can I use a 2-jaw puller to get the bearings off if I need to or will I just F them up?

I'm also looking for a page with all types of gear pattern pics and what to do to get them right from there..

Measure the shims that came stock. That will give you a baseline on what new shims to use. Dont reuse the old shims, because you are going to have to do some more shimming anyway, well probally. Get a caliper and measure the thickness of the old and thats your base line. Hope this helps.

Ok, I found a set of yukon gears install instructions and a lot my questions were answered but now I have a few more..

What kind of carrier bearing preload design does the 44/30 have? (inside or outside shim)

What kind of pinion preload design does the 44/30 have? (crush sleeve or shim)

And I've seen pics of ppl using a 2-jaw puller to pull the bearings. Is this a bad idea?

Ok, I found a set of yukon gears install instructions and a lot my questions were answered but now I have a few more..

What kind of carrier bearing preload design does the 44/30 have? (inside or outside shim)

What kind of pinion preload design does the 44/30 have? (crush sleeve or shim)

And I've seen pics of ppl using a 2-jaw puller to pull the bearings. Is this a bad idea?

1: under the bearings on both.

2: shims on both, unless it's a low pinion aka TJ 30 (some xj,zj too) which has a sleeve.

3: some Fords you can get away with it, usually it will ruin the bearings.. or typically just blow the retainer and rollers off and leave you with only the inner race still on the carrier. A bearing separator might leave the bearing intact, more likely it'll oval the retainer. Best bet is dummy bearings or a spendy removal tool.

Save yourself a lot of headaches and make a set of set-up bearings. Get yourself spare pinion and carrier bearings, then use a cylinder hone to take out a few thousandths. You can then slip them off and on while getting the pinion depth and carrier bearing preload like you want it, plus the pattern itself. Don't pay a hundred bucks for a couple of bearings that someone else has already machined out. Inevitably, you will destroy part of the bearings you try to separate, especially without a bearing separator.

Thanx for the help. Ya I ordered an extra set of carrier bearings for both the 44 and the 30. I planned on using these just in case I screwed up the first set pulling them. I was planning on using the bearings on my stock carrier/pinion for setup bearings..Will this throw things off since they're used? And I didn't plan out how to get them off other than a 2-jaw puller..Maybe if I can get the jaws behind a shim it will keep the bearing together? I would have ordered extras for the pinion too but they were out of stock...

What do you guys use for setting up your gears? Can I get away with just dummy bearings or will I prob need to make one last adjustment after I throw the good ones in?

I've seen the yukon removal tool ..drool..but I'm getting broke fast.

I was planning on using the bearings on my stock carrier/pinion for setup bearings..Will this throw things off since they're used?


Maybe.. it depends on their condition. New bearings are supposed to be repeatably accurate to ten-thousandths of an inch, so if they're worn at all your setup may change.

Another tip that might save your bacon. Drop the carrier shims down onto the carrier and see if they fall to the flat surface, or get hung up on the radius machined into the carrier. If they don't sit flat you'll want to give the setup bearings a good whack to seat the shim to the carrier.

If you don't do this, you'll get the setup looking good, then when you drive on the final bearings they'll crush the shims down, and the carrier will fall into the housing with zero preload.

Thanx for the help. Ya I ordered an extra set of carrier bearings for both the 44 and the 30. I planned on using these just in case I screwed up the first set pulling them. I was planning on using the bearings on my stock carrier/pinion for setup bearings..Will this throw things off since they're used? Some wil say yes, some will say no. In my experience the pattern didn't change, but the backlash tighted up by about .004. [quote]And I didn't plan out how to get them off other than a 2-jaw puller..Maybe if I can get the jaws behind a shim it will keep the bearing together? I would have ordered extras for the pinion too but they were out of stock... Yeah, right. I have a 2 jaw and the only place I could get the jaws on was under the retainer.:shaking: I ended up getting one of these (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=3979) and that got under the inner race.
Since my setup bearings were a little tight, I needed the puller to pop them off the first half, and bent a few shims doing that.

I was told that the best way to set the pinion depth is to just take the shims off the stock pinion shaft and put them right on the new pinion gear,

I always do that, very rarely have I had to change shims assuming the pinion depth was correct to begin with.

Awesome help, I'm glad I'm asking questions now..I think I might actually be prepared for this come next week! :laughing:

So can I can get the job done using only that harbor freight bearing separator? (given that I need to get my old bearings off to use for setup bearings and I have an extra set of new bearings just in case)

And is there anything else I should watch out for or buy now?

I'm going to be buying a harbor freight bearing press. I'm wondering if there's any fittings to press them on that I need? And if should get a set of extra pinion bearings..

I'm also planning to use a dremel w/sanding bit on the inside of the old bearings instead of a hone. Anything to make me better prepared I'm glad to hear..

I always use a carbide burr in an air grinder to make setup bearings. The dremel may take eons. I'm sure somebody's done it that way though.

Carbide burr= 5 minutes per bearing tops. While you're grinding on things reduce the OD of the inner pinion race so it's a slip fit to the housing, for ease of depth shim adjustment.

from my experience with the D30, the carrier bearing closest to the ring gear can be a bitch to get off without damaging it. Even with a hydro press or a 3 jaw gear puller. I'd suggest you use the old bearing for mockup on that side, and ONLY use the new one when your measurements are perfect and your ready for the final install.

It'll save you a couple bearings.

Ok, will do. And I've got a die grinder so I'll have to pick me up a carbide bit..Any more answers or suggestions would be great. I am still wondering if I'm going to get the old bearings off without damaging them(much?)..

probably not.

I have some expensive tools and still have to cut off a bearing now and then.

Thanks for all the help slag. I got ONE more question..I'm looking for a complete set of setup bearings and I already have the carrier bearings for both axles. Will I need the inner and outer pinion bearings for each axle to setup the gears?

You'll only need a modified inner pinion race for setup (the bigger one) on the 44 and 30. The pinion bearings won't be messed with. When you take it apart make sure you don't lose any of the pinion preload shims. They're pretty small and like to stick to the bearing when it's all coming apart... and much like the pinion depth, you'll want to keep the preload washer stack intact as a reassembly baseline.

Ok so the pinion depth shims go behind that race, not between the gear teeth and the bearing (so you don't have to keep pulling that bearing)?