well, i'm just about to complete my SAS and wanted to ask you guys that have gone to rod end steering a quick question. since i'm ditching the TRE's and castle nuts, what sort of hardware do you recommend to keep my steering secure and safe for a daily driver (which my rig is)?

grade 8 bolts i assume. fine/course thread or does it matter? nylon nuts? or stover nuts?

I was also told to use an interference fit bolt on the one that goes through the pitman arm, comments?

TIA
-Rob

Grade 8 works fine, I'd use fine. You can use the stover nuts if you want but I would just use a regular nut and periodically check it, I hate the way those nuts make the wrench feel, like your messing the threads up.

CJ

One thing that racers and aircraft sometimes do is put a washer on the bolt over the rod end when it is mounted in single shear to prevent the rod end from coming apart if the ball "pops out."
some people dont like doing it because it doesn't look cool.

Thanks for the advice. I was more worried about the nuts working themselves loose under vibrations since i would no longer have castle nuts and cotter pins like the stock steering configuration.

I'm not to worried about the rod ends falling apart since their load ratings should have no trouble handling a standard steering setup (no hydralic anytime soon) as long as I don't exceed the misalignment angles.

-Rob

First - mount in double sheer, or use safety washers.
Second - Use UNF grade 8 bolts, and get a castle nut for them. Then drill a hole in each bolt for the nut. It's EASY with a drill press, and then you can be SURE.

Phil

I know AMA racers race wire all critical fasteners on their bikes, drill through nut and bolt, wrap some chevy wire through / around the nut, and give it 3 good wraps with a pair of tie wire pliers. At least that's how I'd do it. I have never gotten a good read on how the AMA rule book requires it to be done, so I have not yet done it to my bike.

A castle nut would also work quite well, and then you don't have to deal with problems from loosening / tightening the nut and the hole not lining up anymore.

Definatly use the SAE (fine) thread fasteners. The deep threads on the coarse stuff weaken the bolts quite a bit...Only use coarse threads if they have to hold in aluminum or cast iron (where fine threads tend to strip). If you use the convex part of a spherical washer pair instead of a flat washer, you gain a little angular travel , and the spherical washers are good steel and heat treated...A lot of hardware store washers are second only to re-bar as far as being junk steel.