This is starting to get ugly!!:nuke:

Im dow to three spares

KEE-RAP you guys are tough on your trucks.
:eek: :eek:

Go Dana 300 and never look back!

I run the same setup.

How did this unfortunate tragedy occur?

Atlas II.

Once you break one, that should be the last LC case you ever see under your cruiser again.

Jeff DANA 300
(__________)

OKay, how many people have broken their LC tcase while using the Tcase saver?
Does it really help that much?


(I have one on order... Just wondering)

Originally posted by KMAN
I run the same setup.

How did this unfortunate tragedy occur? I went up a steep wash about 25 yards Right as I crested POW! I thought it just poped out of gear. I looked under and she was bleeding to death and her guts were laying on the ground. If I go to a dana then I have to swap axes right? I just bought my air locker for up front. I really dont want to start all over!:mad: I only have three spare transfercases left. I better be a little easy on her. The transfercase saver and top of the case is in tack, It blew the bottom out . Who has the other saver that holds the bottom together?

new shot

you only have to change d-line flanges to mate to the dana and run a rear shaft at an angle. the front is still same side output -right:question: - or change the rear axle only. not the front...

With the rear driveline at a angle, will that afect how it acts on the road? Ive never seen this set up.

Originally posted by Jason M
OKay, how many people have broken their LC tcase while using the Tcase saver?
Does it really help that much?


(I have one on order... Just wondering)

I have seen two crack up the idler shaft area with the tcase saver installed.

Man, I hate having that damn tcase on my mind. I tossed around a split case setup which got too expensive. I waiting for my Colorado bud to put in his 2.5 tons so I can get his built 9" centered rear end and go with a something else.

Is a Dana 300 as strong with 4:1 gears. I have heard of this setup breaking, but that could be from crazy big rigs which I am not and never will be.

I don't see the problem....nothing a little epoxy won't fix....ok maybe JB weld but that's it....

Ouch!!!!! I'm glad that I don't wheel with you guys..... poor Cruiser:( .......

If you run a dana 300 with the stock dif you'll end up with some gnarly vibrations!:eek:

we've made plates that come down from the rear x-member (which gets bolted to the back of the t-case) to go down to the steel rear output housing. you can tie into 3 or 4 of the bolts holding the housing to the t-case and then weld the top of that brackett to the x-member.
if this does not make any sense to you i'll try to get a pic of one we've fabbed.
just start torching, grinding, welding, drilling, cussing,.......:flipoff2:

run the lt230 and never look back at the dana 300
it's begger and a side drive
you find it under a disco or rang rover and you can get one set up by a guy in portland

did i mention lower low range
bigger parts than an atlas
I'm bolting mine in right now and it's burly

what do you do about adapting that to your tranny? say sm420 to that rover thangy...:question:

or go with the model 18 (Dana/Spicer)
Right offset front and rear.
plenty strong, lower than toy stock and reduction gears available

NICE:D

More about this lt230 please???????????

yea, tell us more!!

well this is what I know, I'm no expert but I'll pass this on

I have not yet run this case, but am putting one in my rig, a hybrid truck running a sm-420.
The case is a full time 4wd case, but there is a bolt in unit that can change it to part time.
There are also custom adaptors available.
Mostly for np-435's, and sm-465's, but others are available. I have the second sm-420 adaptor.
I would call this case the poorman's side drive atlas. The only problem being that you can't have front drive only.
One of the cool things about this case is that it has a 1.2 to 1 high range. So I will be running 4.10 dif gears with 38 inch tires, and it shouldn't be too bad. Plus it has a good low range of 3.3 to one. It also has a big old parking brake attached to it. The case is aluminum and it is as big as a 205.
My buddy has a shop here in Portland and he does a lot of really trick rover stuff. His name is Timm Cooper and his number is 503 236 0101, but he is in Moab for the week, so try next week some time. And try after 5pm as that is usually the best time to catch him. He can get you a case, set it up build an adaptor and everything. He has had the gears out and they are as big and bigger than those in an atlas. Plus there is the rumor of a bolt in style,(like the old warn) over and underdrive in the works.

I would think for the t-case ($200-$400), part time conversion ($400) Adaptor ($500-600) You could be set up for under $1500.
DON'T QUOTE ME ON PRICES AS I'M NOT POSTITIVE ON THEM
Do a search on the Land rover page and you'll learn even more.

It not perfect, but way better and bigger than any of the other side drives out there, not to mention most of the center drive. I swapped out my dana 300 for one of these, and I'm not looking back.

sorry so long

You know what I like best about a Dana 18 transfer case?

They fit just perfect in a garbage can:D

No offense 500HORS...just my opinion on them.

In your case an atlas ($1800-2500) or a dana 300 (with adapter=$800??) or NP205 would work out better for you. You could try a dana 20 but I've seen the output shafts snap clean off on those before.

This landrover thingy looks interesting though.

fcfred thanks

please keep us posted on your swap, like maybe some digital pics. I am curious on all of the little things that drive you crazy....how the assembly is supported, how low it hangs, drive shafts, adapter bolting, etc.

what year case and what vehicles so I can add it to my boneyard list.

many thanx

Kman:smokin:

Originally posted by KMAN
More about this lt230 please???????????

I was looking at them,they look pretty cool,and you can get crawler gears for a mere 2650.00:eek: at least at the site I was checking out:D

But you may not need them it says it's got a 3. something low range

Is it this?????????

another view

Now that can not be it...that case looks like driver side drop...shoot I don't know. It does have a honkin brake on it though;)

thats it
but it's up side down so it is a pass side shaft
I'm shooting pics tonight, but I have to post em tomarrow

Thank's for the info, this looks real interesting.
I wonder if it is any longer than a LC t-case? I'm allready fighting for rear drive line length, as it sits now I'll get about 19" max!(after I move the V8 2" closer to the radiator) More like 18" in the end.

What model Rover does that come from? Where did the SM420/465 adapter come from?

Nice unit...with my 3.03 Atlas ans SM465, I have 97:1...works great with the 2F and 42" meats..

Yea! tell us about the adapter , to sm420:question:

here are some pics of mine if they work

another

more

and another

LT 230

out of Land rover Discovery, older Range Rovers, Defender 90, and Defender 110.. (In the US anyway)

Multiple gear ratios available although 1.22:1 high and 3.3:1 low is the most common in the US.

Full time 4wd, can be converted to part time. (See Timm Cooper)
Passenger side drive.

Bolt in underdrive now available, bolt in under/over drive in the works. (See Timm Cooper)

-John

what the hech are you building ????looks good ????but no more toyota ??????/

I assume you are asking me
I don't have any toyota in my junk yet
any parts you would recomend?
the only thing I could think I would really want would be a 22re but they don't have enough guts for what I'm building, and I heard that the yota v-8s aren't all that
any suggestions?

How thick are the walls of that rover case? Thay don't look much thicker then a L/C case. It looks bigger then the l/c case but size is not the issue, or the strength or the gears themself on the L/C case. Its the houseing. What size motor are in the rover's??? A built small block , swampers , dry ground, heavy foot=:nuke: how hard are the rover's case's to find, If you start to brake them? Not to mention what it will cost to set up with one. Tell me about the horse power and the power range (rpm) of a stock rover?

Two good questions were asked and I didn't see answers...

LENGTH- How does it compare in size to the stock LC transfer. Can anyone givemeasurements from input mounting face to center of output yoke? Transfer alone w/o adapter would be best.

WHAT YEAR- someone said they are in Disco, older RangeRover, defender90/110. Anybody got years?

Thanks,
Chris

PS- FCFRED- Somebody is building ONEBADASSRIG!!!! congrats. I get up to New England a bunch and would love to check it out.

Who has the other saver that holds the bottom together?

John Pardi (pardi@d-web.com) makes the saver that goes across the back.

http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/soa_etc/img_0082-640x480.jpg

That's Don Anway's (dba73@hotmail.com) saver on the top.

I've had a 4spd tcase behind an 2F-SM465-NP203 for two years now with those two plates, and no problems yet.

Morgan

so what did that rear saver cost?

I think I paid $200 for it. The kit is complete, easy to install and I'd do it again.

Morgan

looks great, i need to go find more info on that case.

Posted some info onto the Rover list about the LT230 for you guys. It is long, but informative for those interested.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=43172

Way

Originally posted by orangefj45
If you run a dana 300 with the stock dif you'll end up with some gnarly vibrations!:eek:

we've made plates that come down from the rear x-member (which gets bolted to the back of the t-case) to go down to the steel rear output housing. you can tie into 3 or 4 of the bolts holding the housing to the t-case and then weld the top of that brackett to the x-member.
if this does not make any sense to you i'll try to get a pic of one we've fabbed.
just start torching, grinding, welding, drilling, cussing,.......:flipoff2:

George,
My friend bought Simon's old cruiser X-member with the bracket welded to it that supported the transfer case output. We also had it modified to bolt to 3 top cover bolts, so it would be extra stout.
One day at Pismo, he took off at the bottom of Comp hill, and only made it 5 feet. The transfercase Split in half!!!. The only thing holding the output side from hiting the ground, was the t-case saver.
This Saver was the strongest and best design I have see, and it was not sufficent for Sand running. The guy who broke it had previously destroyed 3 cruiser transfercases and is now running a FJ60 split case without any problems.

B

Front output is ~7 3/8in forward of the input face.

Case is ~6in deep rear output is ~5in behind rear face.

Could not figure out drop from center of input shaft to center of output flange but ~5in seems right eyeballing it.

Case is quite thick with internal webbing. Never heard of one breaking from force only landing on a rock.

The only failures I have seen are either linkage (dumb crap) or driving with the diff locked on road and grenading the center diff. (no sweat if you convert to part time)

Ron

Ideally you want one out of a 96, 97, or early 98 discovery (crossdilled input before the Q suffix) but any should be fine.

They come in all discoverys, defenders and 87 and 88 range rovers.

Only defender 110s had a different gear ratio 1.4 high range. all are 3.27 low and 1.2ish high.

The adapter looks pretty long compared to my plate between my 420/3 speed. How much did it lengthen your drivetrain? Also as was asked by someone else, how much bigger is the rover case than the 3spd. case?

my wheelbase is 108
but this is not a landcruiser I'm building
evilfij posted the lt230 specs
I'm sure it's a bit longer than what you currently have, but I assume it is also a bit larger
what is the distance from the front of your sm-420 to the rear yoke of your t-case?

You can do front diggs, as i have done them in my disco.

You can do front diggs, as i have done them in my disco.
Thats awesome that you brought a 2+ year post up just to say that.

yeah, but what's even sadder is that my project hasn't changed much in those 2+ years :(

Usually the case does not crack this way unless one of the gears dropped a tooth which was forced between two others, forcing the whole thing apart. If that is the case, I don't see the sense in trying to reinforce the housing against that kind of breakage.

The ones the t-case saver helps with are the 75-80 cases that start cracking above the idler on the inside rear corner of the top cover. They actually have a flaw in the casting that makes them pre-disposed to cracking at this point.

I'd save the $$ and the headache of adapting and put another cruiser unit in, just not one from 75-80. My .02

The AA Orion?????