Listen to this...I think Im going to swap in a 727 instead of a 999 behind my 98 4.0. This guy I talked to can sell me the tranny and torqueconverter with adapter for the np231 for 550 and charge another 100 to put the cps sensor hole in there with a bracket. I have to make my own tranny bracket to mount to the tranny mount, but that should be easy. his shop did it theirselves without much trouble. what do ya think? (i cannot find a decently priced 32RH ANYWHERE)

what else do I need? I know I need a shifter. what about a shift cable or stuff like that?

well... a 727 is much stronger than a 999, but doesn't have the low gears (2.45/1.45/1 vs 2.74/1.55/1 or so). to clear the 231 you might need to clock it or get a lift. i know that's the case on a 727/d300 combo, otherwise, you'll hit the oil pan. how long is the 231? if it's 18-20" you won't need to worry bout clearance.

good luck with the swap

hey YAH! I totally forgot about the D300. will that mate up without an adapter?

DUH! I'm a fawkin idiot! the D300 is what came stock with the 727 didn't it? anyhow the pattern is the same.

actually lets just stick to the np231. my dana 44 is driver side drop and I havn't looked into a flipped d300 yet.

The 231 will bolt up to the 727 no problem. The front shaft clears the pan with plenty of room. You will need to find a 727 out of an 80's Grand Waggie. They have the same pattern as your 4.0, and 23 spline output. You will have to get the CPS drilled like you mentioned, or get a relocation kit for it. If you really want a 999, most all of those goofy 80's Eagle wagons had them. They are the right bolt paterns, and 23 spline. (secret CJ tranny info!!!)

OK, If you have DRIVER's SIDE D44, and want a TF727, you should use...NP208 from fullsize jeep. Good low range, driver's side, and no :rainbow: slipyoke. Jus my .02. Stay away form NP229, i have :nuke: 'ed three of them so far in my daily driver '88 Wag. I dunno jack about the 231, but the TF727 can take a beatin' and thats proven. jus my $.02, if you dont agree, then :flipoff2: (jus kiddin)

how long is a np208 compared to a 231 with a short shaft kit? how much do 208's run for?

Not sure on length...very similar in design, so could be close. May need driveshaft work, but probably not too major. You can find the 208 that you want in early 80's wags, and MAYBE J-trucks, i'm not sure on that one. Make sure that it doesn't have a vacume shift motor for high range and a seporate lever fot high-low, that is a POS 229, you most likely don't want it, as it has a full-time (but selectable) high range with a viscous coupling. Anyways, you could probably score a junkyard 208 for around $150 or so in NH, not sure about anywhere else, we have really reasonable parts prices, though. Try the for sale here, and IFSJA board, they might have something. you might need to do some floor mods to fit the shifter for the 208, but other that that, its a good swap. good luck, it should work out well for you.

most of the time when a np229 grenades it's because the DSPO didn't pop it into lo range every month (like the manual sez to; hmm, imagine that, reading the manual?!) and the case is poorly lubricated.

same problem with the BW qtrac... people didn't know how to maintain them. have you ever wondered why there are still qtracs running around today (with 4.88s and 40" tires to boot) and why jeep used the qtrac back in the 70s for desert racing?

98 4.0L

what about the TCM ?

what about the Lock up Torque Converter ?

i didnt think the 727 would mat up to the back of a 4.0L block??? :confused:

i think it has the same bolt patrtern, spline as the 999, 32RH but it is not computer controlled like the 98 (32RH)

the guys who did it say the 727 mates up fine but you need the right toqueconverter. They have the jeep they did it to in their yard so Im gonna ask if I can take a test drive today.
As for as the 208, it has an even worse crawl ratio than the 231 doesn't it? not much of a rock crawler then. was wanting to do the tera low on the 231 to help out some. is there a 4:1 kit for hte 208?

is the one you saw a 97 and up TJ ?

I think its a YJ. is the bolt pattern different on a TJ? does it make a difference that the engine is from a GRAND cherokee?

Originally posted by redruM
98 4.0L

what about the TCM ?

what about the Lock up Torque Converter ?
what a bout it? help me out here. whats on your mind? are you implying something?

bolt pattern is the same but the TJ PCM controlls the lockup of the torque converter... i think the YJ has a mechanical lock up

if you are going thru all the trouble you should check out past posts on the XJ (4spd auto) conversion to a TJ

400$ kit from AEV and you can have overdrive 1st,2nd,3rd are all the same gear but the XJ has a .74-1 overdrive... i was going to do this but im too cheap

(with .74-1 overdrive i could have run 7.17 gears and still done 70 on the highway)

Brian

this is a trailer queen only. built for rocks and the dirt road to get to the rocks. I could give a shiat about an overdrive. infact i killed my self trying to find a 3 speed(shorter). can't I just put in a non computer controlled torque converter? seems simple to me.

np208 has a 2.61:1 lo range
nvg231 has a 2.72:1 lo range

4% difference :rolleyes: whoop de do

the 4.0L is an AMC engine, it has the AMC bolt pattern (up to the 2000 4.0L i think)

the H in 32RH stands for "hydraulically controlled" i.e., it doesn't use electronic controls (as opposed to the 42RE, which is a 4 speed electronically controlled auto)

ok. so i've been reading...do I need the park/neutral safety switch hooked up for some reason? whats it do?
if I dont care about highway speeds, should I go with a lockup or non lockup convertor?
whats this I read about the starter? will I need to make some modifications there on my 98 4.0L engine?