Silly window question

[drummer12345]

I'm trying to move my front glass windows of my '69 Series IIA from the beat-up doors to new uppers and I seem to be lost. :confused: What parts do I need, besides the glass, to install the sliding windows into the new doors?? I went to Paddock.com and saw 'window channel' listed but there is no description as to what it is for. Also, what does 'unglazed' mean?? I e-mailed Paddock but in the past it has taken them a while to respond. Thanks.

[ISUZUROVER]

"Window channel" or "Bailey Channel" refers to the tracks that the glass slides in. It is a u shaped steel track with felt on the inside of the U where the glass slides. Usually I buy it in a big long length (5' or so) and cut it to length.

Unglazed means without glass.

And a couple of tips - the bailey channel is normally screwed to the door top with small screws through the bottom of the U. Water often seeps down past the screws and is the starting point for rust. When I have reconditioned door tops or put glass in new door tops, I simply use a high strength silicone (Sikaflex - from any boating suppies or building supplies place - or Bahr in Germany too I think), and silicone the bailey channel in - holding everything in place while the silicone cures.

[drummer12345]

"Window channel" or "Bailey Channel" refers to the tracks that the glass slides in. It is a u shaped steel track with felt on the inside of the U where the glass slides. Usually I buy it in a big long length (5' or so) and cut it to length.

Unglazed means without glass.

And a couple of tips - the bailey channel is normally screwed to the door top with small screws through the bottom of the U. Water often seeps down past the screws and is the starting point for rust. When I have reconditioned door tops or put glass in new door tops, I simply use a high strength silicone (Sikaflex - from any boating suppies or building supplies place - or Bahr in Germany too I think), and silicone the bailey channel in - holding everything in place while the silicone cures.
Ben, you are my hero!! I'll have to buy you a keg or something if we ever meet. Thanks for all of your asistance.

[Keith Armstrong]

When I have reconditioned door tops or put glass in new door tops, I simply use a high strength silicone (Sikaflex - from any boating suppies or building supplies place - or Bahr in Germany too I think), and silicone the bailey channel in - holding everything in place while the silicone cures.

Cripes, that makes sense - whacking self on forehead!

Next time I'll only have to fight with the screws on the way out! :)

[ISUZUROVER]

Happy to be of service.

Another word of advice when using the new replacement door-top frames. I found that they were made too large, and I had to make-up a few strips of 3mm aluminium to work as a spacer between the door top frame and the bailey channel.

[Simon]

Silicone can be a PITA to work with (especially if you plan to paint your door tops anytime soon)and there are better adhesives. I used construction adhesive, about three-four years ago and it seems to hold just fine. You only need a thin bead (it will splooge out around the chennel material if you get too "excited" about how much you use. I supplemented with some screws on the top and side channels to hold it in place as it dried, and the weight of the glass to hold the chennel in place on the bottom. Water is only really a worry on the bottom channel. There are those who will tell you that screws are the only way to go, but they are the kind of guys that enjoy spending time on stuff like this. You might want to somehow coat the ends of the channels where you cut them as this seemed to be where the rust in my old ones originated. I dipped the ends of mine in "plasti-dip."

Yeah, this is low tech, but its about my speed!:flipoff2:

Simon

[ISUZUROVER]

Silicone can be a PITA to work with (especially if you plan to paint your door tops anytime soon)and there are better adhesives. I used construction adhesive

Sikaflex - which I used, is a construction adhesive - I just refer to all those products that come in a tube like that as silicone. Sikaflex is very strong and fully paintable.

If I remember correctly, I used Sikaflex 292 (but the black version):
http://www.sikaindustry.com/tds-ipd-sikaflex292-us.pdf

I don't use any screws, I just use welding clamps to keep everything in place while it cures.

[evilfij]

They make stainless channel. I forget where but someone found it through a marine store.

:smokin: