I'm in the process of putting AFIRover's 5" RTE lift on his truck. His swivel housings do not have the drains. Given his propensity for following me into mud holes (and then watching me get stuck:flipoff2: ), I'd like to modify his swivel housings to allow for draining after such activities.

I'm thinking there should be plenty of room for an 1/8" NPT plug. Anybody got a better idea, or a suggestion for a plug size? The original drains are tiny. I'm thinking the 1/8" pipe plug ought to be about perfect!

PT

Anybody got a better idea

Well,could you find an earlier axle with plugs for cheap or at least the housings you could swap parts...

I'm dismantling one and will try moving the housings with new seals fitted on my '97 axle ,they should be fully interchangeable...
(I hope)

Cheers

HEY STOP [/SIZE]
dream up crazy shit and fix my truck DAMMIT

PS like Im going to drain them anyway :flipoff2:

Anybody got a better idea

Well,could you find an earlier axle with plugs for cheap or at least the housings you could swap parts...


Cheers

he already has enough parts from my parts trucks as it is! I gotta save SOME parts for the someday hybrid project!

At least I'm working on osmething other than a bone stock truck!:flipoff2:

At least I'm working on osmething other than a bone stock truck!:flipoff2:[/QUOTE]

at least i can spel :flipoff2:

Shit, just drill them out and put some bubble gum over the holes. ; ) The rig-factor will mathc that of the adjustable ball-joint I just sent. It's a stock one with a screwdriver welded to thetop. I figured it would be ok since your the AFRO ENG... :flipoff2:

j/k bro, your shits on the way...

Pull the inner axle seal and drain it from the diff...
Ah Crap you wouldn't get all the oil out..
What you suggest has been done before without any trouble... CV grease will not come out though, only 90 wt. Probably the reason there aren't drains in later cars anyway...

Wanted: One each: two armed Railco swivel housings from and early 110... And I've got the balls to use them

I've taken to popping the seals off the "no drain" type swivels. Takes like 2 min a side. Works so well I'll do it to the older style swivels to. Also allows cleaning of all the rust and crap that gets in behind the retaining ring (re-assemble with liberal grease applied) Make sure to mark the seal and housing to assure correct replacement.
That rover grease will come out if you pour a cup of diesel in the swivel and drive around the block before draining.

I've taken to popping the seals off the "no drain" type swivels. Takes like 2 min a side. Works so well I'll do it to the older style swivels to. Also allows cleaning of all the rust and crap that gets in behind the retaining ring (re-assemble with liberal grease applied) Make sure to mark the seal and housing to assure correct replacement.
That rover grease will come out if you pour a cup of diesel in the swivel and drive around the block before draining.

I wouldn't do that to oil-filled swivels, as IME they usually weep around the outside of the seal if the outside hasn't been siliconed to the swivel housing.

Just loosen the bolts for the top pin and it will all drain past the seal. no drain hole needed.

Magically Delicious! :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

My 127 swivels aren't that much different than my '90 RRC swivels Revor. They both use the same upper pin and railco bushes...if that's what you're looking for.

If it's not, sorry...I was just thinking you were wondering how they were different...unless you already know...which you probably do. :D

The housings I'm looking for fit the balls that have a steel sleeve protuding above the ball by about an inch into which the upper pin and bushing goes into.. The gasket and retaining plate are almost pear shaped, the opening in the housing is sorta the same shape (not round) I have only found these balls on earlier 110 axles that I have brought in from Canada..

The benefit would be more strength as the leverage points of the steering pins would be farther apart, more than that they're weird, I like weird..

I'll post a pic when I get a minute..

I wouldn't do that to oil-filled swivels, as IME they usually weep around the outside of the seal if the outside hasn't been siliconed to the swivel housing.
really? I've always used oil...never used silicone. no leaks.

OK guys, back on topic. I've looked at a number of swivels and am now thinking that 1/8" NPT might be too big and would weaken the bottom of the housing near the bearing. Any ideas? I'm now thinking a 1/4-20 hole with a socket head cap screw safety wired in position... Copper crush washer?

AFI's already gotten enough parts from me for this project (And I have a parts truck that can't be moved until his job is finished and the "Borrowed" parts are re-installed on the parts truck), so I'm NOT giving him a pair of swivel housings with drains!

Worthy of note was the fact that when I disassembled the swivels, I found there to be almost no oil/grease in them. If I put drains in his swivels (worded carefully for Merv avoidance) I might be able to convince him of the necessity to drain and re-fill his swivels!

Happy Ramachannakwanzmastet!

PT

I might be able to convince him of the necessity to drain and re-fill his swivels!

Happy Ramachannakwanzmastet!

PT


NO WAY :GOOD LUCK WITH WHAT :flipoff2:

PT, how 'bout useing one of the lower swivel pin mounting bolts as the drain?
I was just looking at one and the bolt hole ( at least on this one) goes right through, something I had not previously noticed.

Ding ding ding
we have a winner

You guys have got to be kidding? And they call me a hack!

I kinda question the wisdom of removing a structural component for a maintenance activity, especially one that isn't particularly easily accessible, what with the mud shield, etc. Also, I'd prefer that lower swivel pins remain tight and not periodically removed and reinserted under conditions not as conducive as those found under original assembly.

I can see amny arguments against and only one for. Convince me otherwise, I demand it, especially from you Pendy!

I'll buy a BPP tap and order OEM plugs!

PT

I never got water in my swivels. And I sat in rivers and lakes for hours with my truck using it as a diving board. But, your not going to reduce the strength of the swivel at all with an 1/8NPT plug just make it as far from everything as possible. The other option is to drill the lower swivel pin with maybe a 1/4" through hole, and a small plug on the end. The swivel pin is more than strong enough to make a small hole. The plug could even be a 1/4" fine thread with a little silicone on it.

You guys have got to be kidding? And they call me a hack!

I kinda question the wisdom of removing a structural component for a maintenance activity, especially one that isn't particularly easily accessible, what with the mud shield, etc. Also, I'd prefer that lower swivel pins remain tight and not periodically removed and reinserted under conditions not as conducive as those found under original assembly. If its jacked up with no weight on it no harm will come with one bolt is removed. The design of the swivel pin, with a tolerance fit at its middle section, will not allow it to droop

Infact its no different then removing the top bolts to bring a caliper away for hub removal. If done right the swivel housing does not droop. I further suggest one of the top bolts can be removed to aid in draining. Maybe even air pressure applied. I would goop up the bottom bolt with sealer before reinserting it also.

I can see amny arguments against and only one for. Convince me otherwise, I demand it, especially from you Pendy!

Some people cannot be reached

I'll buy a BPP tap and order OEM plugs!

PT:p

really? I've always used oil...never used silicone. no leaks.

The first set I did (a long time ago) I didn't use silicone, one weeped from the outside, one was fine. That was a series swivel, and all the series and coiller swivels I have replaced since, I have used some RTV/silicone around the outside for good measure. Maybe coiller swivel seals have a better seal around outside, but have only wanted to do the job once.

I never got water in my swivels.

Did you fit swivel housing breathers?

I have gotten very small amounts of water in oil-tight swivels after driving through deep rivers, but this doesn't seem to happen to mates' trucks with dedicated breathers to the swivels. Going from an ambient temp of 104ish to a cold river doesn't help either.

You guys have got to be kidding? And they call me a hack!

I kinda question the wisdom of removing a structural component for a maintenance activity, especially one that isn't particularly easily accessible, what with the mud shield, etc. Also, I'd prefer that lower swivel pins remain tight and not periodically removed and reinserted under conditions not as conducive as those found under original assembly.

I can see amny arguments against and only one for. Convince me otherwise, I demand it, especially from you Pendy!

I'll buy a BPP tap and order OEM plugs!

PT
Hey man, I have an advanced degree in hackery.
Just tried pulling ONE lower swivel bolt from my heap, which has 90wt in it. Drains slick like puppy doo. Especially the water which came out really quickly.
Forgot about the dust sheilds. It's been a while since I've seen those, as I usually HACK them off .

OK, everybody back up, I'm gonna agree with KC! :flipoff2:

I'd been thinking of drilling and tapping the swivel to 10-32 and using a SHCS and a crush washer.

Matt-my dad still says I have a PhD in assholery! I'll have to pursue that double major in hackery! I too have removed the dust shields from my truck and will on AFI's as well.

Pendy-things are still pretty weird around here, we're waiting for more info as to the situation and when the wake will be. (for those of you not in the loop, we had a very tragic death in Shopgrrl's family Christmas day)

W/R/T not leaking into swivels, perhaps in New Mexico yes, but in Indiana, if a truck even thought about going out into the real world this time of year, swivel balls instantly corrode and the leaking begins shortly thereafter. As for swivel breathers, I'm a major proponent of removing axle seals and allowing the diff fluids and swivel oils to intermingle. Hell, I'm not even too excited about swivel/diff oil in the bearings, IF the drive flange is sealed well enough to keep the oil where it belongs.