89 trooper help.

[man0war]

It is manual trans with the chevy v-6.I still can't figure out why it always so high.When cold it idles 2200.When warm it still idles high,10,000 to 12,000 rpm.And it goes up and down.Any help appreciated.:smokin:

[CtTrooper]

care to elaborate such as what year, and you are off by a place on the RPMs.

if it is the 2.8L like i have they idle as high as 2000RPM when cold at startup, when warm it should idle just under 1000RPM

[paulevans76]

let us know what you have tried so far. go through the vacuum lines for leaks, check the diagram under the hood to make sure they are all in the right place, check pcv, egr, map, etc.

[Rude_Dog]

It is manual trans with the chevy v-6.I still can't figure out why it always so high.When cold it idles 2200.When warm it still idles high,10,000 to 12,000 rpm.And it goes up and down.Does the engine sound like it's idling too fast? Or are you just writing about what the tach indicates? If your tach is defective, ignore it. If your engine is actually sounds to be/seems to be idling too fast...ignore it..:D Kidding! Just kidding. Things to check. Make sure the throttle is returning to it's home position. It should be resting on a stopper screw and appear nearly closed if you look down the venturi.

There is a proceedure for setting minimum idle speed. At the beginning of this proceedure you do something that causes the ECU to drive the idle speed motor to the fully close the idle air control valve. Go that far in the proceedure and then electrically disconnect the motor so its position is saved. Remove the motor so you can look at the actuator and see if it actually did go all the way closed. If it didn't go closed, then you get to troubleshoot IAC motor and the ECU's control over it. Usually this just means you have to replace the IAC motor, because it's mechanism is jammed. If the IAC motor did close the valve all the way, then continue with the minimum idle speed proceedure. When you get to the part where you are adjusting the stopper screw that controls the idle position of the throttle (mentioned above), the engine should be idling just under the normal idle speed the controller tries to keep (probably printed on a sticker under the hood). On my '91 GM V-6 trooper, I think the controller tries to keep the engine at 750 RPM, and the minimum idle is something like 450 or 500 RPM. When you begin to adjust the throttle stop, if you set it so the throttle is completely closed and the engine is still idling (fast), then you most probably have a vacuum leak. Air is entering your intake manifold through some other passage other than the idle air control or throttle. Check all manifold connected hoses. Don't overlook the big hose going to your brake booster (if so equipped..heh). Once you get your engine speed down under control, finish the minimum idle speed setting proceedure.

No matter if this helps or not, once you get things fixed up, disconnect a battery terminal for a few seconds to force a reset of the ECU. Drive with moderation for about 20 minutes. The ECU will begin "learning" and setting it's variables, etc. based on any adjustments you have made, or new parts installed, etc. good luck.

[man0war]

Thanx alot rude dog.I'll go through all that this weekend.I 4-got to mention that it's an 89 CT.Thanx for all your replys.

[Rude_Dog]

Don't overlook the big hose going to your brake booster (if so equipped..heh). Hey, look! I'm quoting myself! :barf: :shaking: OK so another idea I had. If you troubleshoot and figure out there's a vacuum leak, but can't seem to find the leak, another tricky source for a vacuum leak is when the brake booster goes bad. When the booster goes bad, the booster will be the source of the leak. Try disconnecting the booster hose from the engine entirely and stopping up the port where the hose connects. also, if the throttle body were to become severely loose from the manifold or get it's gasket sucked in or blown out or something like that, it could also cause a fat vacuum leak. Have fun.

[man0war]

Hey, look! I'm quoting myself! :barf: :shaking: OK so another idea I had. If you troubleshoot and figure out there's a vacuum leak, but can't seem to find the leak, another tricky source for a vacuum leak is when the brake booster goes bad. When the booster goes bad, the booster will be the source of the leak. Try disconnecting the booster hose from the engine entirely and stopping up the port where the hose connects. also, if the throttle body were to become severely loose from the manifold or get it's gasket sucked in or blown out or something like that, it could also cause a fat vacuum leak. Have fun.
thanx rude:D

[man0war]

Another question?May sound stupid cause it is.I have the spare tire on the back door:smokin: but still havent found a jack or lug wrench.Where in the hell is that supposed to be?

[Uzi]

Believe it or not.....My lug wrench and jack were under the driver's seat. I'd never seen that before I assume that is the stock location for the older generation troopers mine is an 87. I've never seen the location on the 90's or newer generation troop's. Also the crank for the jack is mounted under the hood right next to the prop rod if you haven't figured out what that long rod is for. If its not there you should see 2 or 3 little plastic clips (one for the bend in the handle is near the washer resivor IIRC) like the ones that hold down the prop rod if yours is missing, lost, etc.

[man0war]

Believe it or not.....My lug wrench and jack were under the driver's seat. I'd never seen that before I assume that is the stock location for the older generation troopers mine is an 87. I've never seen the location on the 90's or newer generation troop's. Also the crank for the jack is mounted under the hood right next to the prop rod if you haven't figured out what that long rod is for. If its not there you should see 2 or 3 little plastic clips (one for the bend in the handle is near the washer resivor IIRC) like the ones that hold down the prop rod if yours is missing, lost, etc.
ok ill check that out.thanx:smokin:

[Rude_Dog]

Hi Gang! Happy new year!! [pssst. jack location could be the start of a new thread, or an add-on for the FAQ thread. I'm not the thread police, just a suggestion.] Anyhoo, on my '90 Trooper, I found my jack and lug wrench under the driver seat. Clear all the carpet fuzz and desicated french fries out of the way (heh). OK, so IIRC, There's a red plastic pouch with the lug wrench in it, and I think there's a rubber strap or something that holds the wrench in place. I also think the jack goes between two brackets, and you can fully retract the jack and set it between the brackets and "raise the jack", and it will snug up between the brackets to stay in place and not rattle. The lug wrench has a shaped hole casted or punched into the handle midway down that fits a shaft that's located (snapped into clips) under the hood parallel to the hood's prop rod. Of course, the end of the shaft that doesn't fit the hole in the wrench, fits the jack. That end is spoon shaped, so you have to insert it into the jack at an angle. Once the whole jack is assembled, the socket of the lug wrench becomes the crank handle of the jack. Ooop! You know, now that I think about it, there's an instruction sticker on the outboard side of the driver's seat pedestal! Simple enough. Be prepared for Jenglish. I still get a chuckle from the sticker that explains the use of the trans' winter mode.