http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=192498

is any one running anyhting like this????

I didn't understand a fawkin word anyone typed over there. You can't just "bolt" on a "H" yoke and have a CV style driveshaft that will slide into the back of your transfercase. The H yoke needs a centering link and a ball stud. Both of these parts are either part of the flange that bolts to the trasfercase or welded to the driveshaft. These parts make both of the ujoints operate at the same angle. Without them, one joint could be doing all the work while the other one isn't doing anything.

There is no "cheap" way around a slip yoke eliminator kit and a CV driveshaft, the slipyoke is a weak part of the driveline and needs to be strengthened by getting a stronger output shaft and a yoke or flange.

Reading tech posts like that are just more examples of people that dont have a clue trying to modify something.

For more examples of this, go to the scary steering page.:D

yeah i fell for it not knowing any beter.... shame on me... just trying to find a less expensive way around the hd sye... maybe a rubicon stock shaft??

Rubicons have a fixed yoke stock. So you would have to do a sye anyways. PORC has SYE's for $169.99 I believe with free shipping. You can find a cherokee front drive shaft and have it shortened to your application if you want to go about things the cheap way. It cost me a whole $80 to get the shaft shortened and the shaft was free. So it only cost me $249.99 to put in a sye and cv shaft which is cheaper than what some places sell the SYE kit for.

here is a good one for $199:
http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/products/np231/np231j_std_sye.html

here is a little propaganda against the cheaper SYE kits, even the "HD" ones, don't know how true it is but read up on it
http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/products/np231/np231j_short_sye.html

i found a rubicon rear for 50$ and i was hopeing it would be the correct length so i could save a bit there.

a rubicon rear doesn't have a CV, just regular ujoints on both ends. Plus it mates to an odd flange.

Like xtusseryx said, use a front XJ or TJ shaft and have it shortened. I don't think they are as strong as a new shaft made by High Angle or Tom Woods but you are looking for the cheapest way out.

damn ive spent most of my time at jeepforum and they alwasy give you the run around about what they run and never answer your question... thanks alot.. i think im going to break down and buy the short sye mentioned above and go with a front shaft out of the xj..... thanks again

dont forget to search classifieds here and other sites, there is always someone that just put an atlas in or changed drivelines, you may be able to get a case and a shaft used for less.

so i went to the u pull it yard ato get the front xj drive shaft. it started raining and i got the wrong one.... i guese jeep changed the flangeon the newer ones or something... o well i guese i have to go back

anything from the late 80's and on should have the same type of driveshaft, a 1310 size joint with a cv style at the tcase end. some of the earlier types had a cv with a boot (similar to an axleshaft on a frontwheel drive car)

I dont think they ever used a flange style, all of the front outputs should have a yoke from late 80's and newer

it doesnt have a flang its the same setup. it uses a different bolt pattern. where it mounts to the tcase

this is all good reading- Jess

so i got the correct ds but what flang can i use at the transfer case???

come on guys????

you dont need a flange. If you got a front XJ shaft, you need to get a SYE with a 1310 CV yoke

yeah i found a guy that will "make" one for 165$ its not a standard part.. i guese the spline count isnt common