:evil: leaving out dickwad, let's open yet another thread on the GM diesel. plusses:

a) not as heavy as ford (:flipoff2: ) and a fair amount less than a CTD
b) CTD will rip out the stock rover drivetrain
c) there are better, but really - for a conversion that may see 50k miles
d) way cheaper than rover diesel. really - put down the crack pipe.

please stop the bitching and open your hearts a little!

i'm pretty intent on swapping in a 6.5 turbo in my LWB in the near future. my 4.2 is is over 220k miles, and I really want to tow a boat and run bio-diesel with it (sorry OS - sail power fer me). i have an off-road rig that'll stay gas - this other one will have the wheelbase and the suspension to deal with a heavy azzzzzzz diesel rig. SO! what's better:

- mark's adapter to the ZF **ORRR***
- custom adapter to LT230 **ORRR***
- divorced t-case (uhhh... yeah)

my buddies 'burban gets along quite well with a 6.5 turbo, BTW. i'm thinking my LWB would feel like quite the rockstar, and I won't have to replace the entire fuggin drivetrain to deal with the torque of *real* diesel, and will still get the mileage increases and ability to run alternative fuels. the isuzu diesel looks groovy, but seems like more work IMO, and doesn't have the power of the 6.5T.

flame away fawkers. and newbies, yer welcome. :cool2:

re-post! :flipoff2:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=411504

bwahhahahahaha :D

not at all! that thread was all total bickering about pros/cons of a diesel and then a GM diesel at that. let's asssss*ume that we've chosen a GM diesel and actually want to install it, and need some tech to actually get it done :flipoff2:

my folks had two different versions of the 6.2. one was in a wagon it sucked, the other in a suburban, and it was the best damn truck we ever had. it lived through a good 7 north dakota winters then it moved with my folks when i went away to college and they moved to minn. tough rig. i like the gm diesel idea. i also would like to build a biodiesel. you can't tell me a 3.9 is more reliable:shaking:
i will be closely watching this thread as well. i will join in the insanity if it can be done. i also wonder if the rover drive train will survive as well.

the 3.9 is a great engine ... for a 3500lb car! in a 5k truck it's slow. for a wheeler i think it's okay - but for my DD / LWB i'd like better mileage and the ability to run bio.

it CAN be done. i doubt the ZF is really up for it. a GM tranny to LT230 adapter is where it's at, but i don't know of anyone who's done it firsthand :confused:

Marks also do an adaptor for the 4L80E to LT230.

John

i doubt the ZF is really up for it. a GM tranny to LT230 adapter is where it's at, but i don't know of anyone who's done it firsthand :confused:


I read a thread where aschroft transmissions build a ZFHP24 in a HP22 case for a guy putting it behind a 2.8L TGV. Might be a little pricey though. IIRC it was only about 12 mm longer than a stock HP22. Also I have read a few posts where 6.2s were in front of rover drive trains and did very well if not abused. I was also thinking of going this route at one time.

Tim

Start looking at UK conversion websites, this is one of their favorites over there. You will be able to find a lot of info I think. I also would not use the ZF as it sits, maybe a rebuilt unit upgraded to HP24 specs. That would be okay. Good luck!

my mate has a 6.2 in his RRC auto (zf) is goes like hell..pulls anything out of the slop, i also have one in my RRC manual, gets great mileage and is used for towing, which it does with ease...conversion plates are available in the uk, from various sources..this guy is very knowledgeable about the LR conversion but does`nt have aweb site, (brian gill 01246 430862) and has just made a plate for the zf auto out of a 4.6 P38 and this was dropped in a LR 101 with a 6.5 in...i`m sure you could get one made in the states easily, i have a few spare ones for the 4 auto out of the RRC, i could draw arund it if you like and make a template for you....

[QUOTE=SeaRover
- divorced t-case (uhhh... yeah)

:[/QUOTE]

This has been done (http://www.bcboffroad.com/gallery.html ), and 6.2s and 6.5s came in many 2WD GM trucks where you could use both the OEM engine and trans as a package for a swap. Custom short shafts tend to be cheaper than custom adapters.

Someone educate me here: did any LT230s come in a divorced mode AND feature 1:1 high range? If so, what are some sources for these t-cases?

Keith,

AFAIK LR never offered any t-case that was divorce-mounted. I believe mine may just be the first LR t-case that has been divorce mounted (that pic is one I took of my own truck).

Your comment about the short shaft is one of the reasons we went with the divorced t-case.

Hit the gear section on my website and you can read all about it.

thanks all for the off-board replies and info in the thread.

i have seen the divorced case setups before at Timm's shop. these are pretty cool, but you still need some kind of faceplate and adapter to fit a stubby onto the front of the LT230. on a LWB rangie i may not have this option, after looking under there a bit more. on series / def bodied rigs it seems like you've got much more clearance (from what I recall of my buddies 110, anyway).

i will start keeping my eyes peeled :)

One thing I have been curious about recently is the transmission used in the LR3/RR Sport/RR. It is a ZFHP26. Seeing that a lot of the parts between an HP22 and an HP24 are interchangeable, I wonder that parts from the HP26 may interchange as well. I know that it is a fully computer-controlled 6 speed trans, but I am specifically interested in what heavy-duty internals might swap over. They are built to handle 400hp/tq in a 6000 pound Range Rover, after all. The same way you can swap clutches from a 24 into a 22, I wonder if you can do with a 26.

If you could work with this, there should be no reason whatsoever why the transmission would not withstand the torque of a 6.5. They really only produce smallblock-like power anyways, which is absolutely fine if thats all that you require. People get caught up in comparing them to 600-fpt Cummins diesels but when you look at them as a diesel engine that was designed to replicate smallblock power while retrieving excellent fuel economy then they really aren't too bad at all. The 6.5 turbos had some problems; I don't know if those have been solved in the aftermarket yet (better headgaskets, etc).

i'm sure it's possible, but why not use a 700R4 or 4L80E that was built for heavy duty applications, and will be much easier to repair and find parts for. i want the steady flame ... not the fuse :D

From everything that I have read, you will have quite a bit of difficulty getting the front driveshaft from an LT230 to clear the transmission pan on any of the larger American made automatics, even the 700R4. Also, if you keep the ZF trans, it is likely that all of your modifications will be from the firewall forward. If you change to a larger, heavier-duty trans, then you will almost surely find yourself messing with driveshafts, transmission tunnels, shifters, linkages and cables, and possibly even wiring. I would try to keep it simple, and build the ZF to handle it so that I can leave the rest of the truck alone and focus on what this is: an engine repower. Not a complete vehicular rebuild.

Here you go:

http://www.landyonline.co.za/techtalk/dv8_conversion_pages/index.htm

Specifically, click on the "transmission" link.

SeaRover,

what do you need the LT230 for? Unless you are dead-set in keeping as many rover parts in place, I'd look for whatever GM diesel you like + 4L80(E, if you like it) + whatever NP transfer case was behind it (247? 249?). NP cases are clockable, so you may be able to either find the one with pass.side front output, or clock one to a right side. With the LWB, you shouldn't have problems with rear driveshaft going from centered t-case output to the rear diff.
I've been looking at my options for the 89RRC (won't happen, most likely), but it'll happen eventually when either of my newer rovers' drivetrain tanks. I've also spent some quality time at a few junk yards in Ridgecrest, CA, and was amazed at the number of nearly intact, low-mileage, GM powertrain combos available taken off rolled trucks.

SeaRover,
what do you need the LT230 for?

i don't know much about those NP cases, but i thought they were all chain driven and numerically higher gear ratios on low range than a stock LT230. an atlas would be the way to go if not using an LT. i'll have to convert in any case, as the LWB has the stock borg-warner case at present.

for the money and for what you get, the LT230 is a great full-time t-case. the atlas is not full time, and really should use selectable hubs on the front axle which is a whole nuther ball of wax. the other NP cases might well be full-time, but are not going to be as strong as an LT230 or an atlas.

Rovertracks shafts and a truetrac 4-pin diff would be plenty of rear-end beef to keep up with a GM diesel. For the front, i'm thinking i might swap my aeu2522/ashcroft/truetrac setup over to the LWB and then convert the other rig to toy CV's and an ARB on its front. the LWB is bone stock at the moment.

there's merit in Adam's point about repowering vs. replacing the truck. 6 one way -

I've also spent some quality time at a few junk yards in Ridgecrest, CA, and was amazed at the number of nearly intact, low-mileage, GM powertrain combos available taken off rolled trucks.

'xactly. :cool2:

Actually, nearly any NP chain-driven case used on 1/2-ton and heavier trucks will be nearly as good as you want it. The simplest (but part-time) would be NP208 - stands without any complaints behind a very healthy 401 V8 in a 4700-lb truck. I wouldn't worry about running a part-time case in a LWB, but there are full-time NP cases in newer trucks.
Most will have 2.6:1 or thereabouts low range ratio; with a 6.5 diesel, you may not want to go deeper - no rover axles will stand up to it.
If you still want to go deeper in gear, 700R4 has 3:1 1st gear ratio, it'll put you in the same ballpark (don't know if it's good enough for the diesel torque).

bcb offroad number disconnected????? http://www.tawayama.com/ nothing either? whats up? i'm very interested in bcbs transfercase set up

Isn't the Samuri conversion from the UK a bellhousing adapter to go from a GM engine to the rover tranny?

Pete

I think I'm the guy mentioned above who's got one of Ashcrofts ZF4 HP24 spec boxes infront of a 2.8 TGV. Its a great gearbox but I don't know how well it'll handle a turbocharged 6.5, that'll have a huge ammount of torque. The design limits for the (ZF4) HP22 and HP24 are 280lb/ft and 360 lb/ft respectivly although i've seen vehicles running a little more than that reliably on well built boxes. If you do decide to go for a ZF box, I reckon it won't last long if its not uprated and fitted with a BIG oil cooler. Even then it might be a bit dodgy especially towing heavy loads.

As far as fitting parts from later boxes, I doubt they'll be compatible (but it would be nice :D ) as, from what I know, the HP** designation is just a way of differentiating differant models of simerlar boxes ie the ZF4 HP22 and HP24. As the box fitted to the DIII/RRS is a ZF6 box I think it'll be quite differant.

I have Mark's 4x4 lt230 adapter to an 4L80e.
Its behind a LS1 chevy putting out 420+lbs of Tq.
The t/c is 1:1 by Ashcroft and also has their new underdrive as well.
Gear ratio on the 4L80 is only a 2.75ish 1st not a 3.6, which I think maybe the 4L65 and or 700r4 is.
My tranny was built to handle 900+ hp so it will last.
Marks kit is sweet, but took FOREVER to get (like 9 mos!)

I have Mark's 4x4 lt230 adapter to an 4L80e.


Same adapter should work with the 700r4 and maybe the TH350/400 wouldn't it?

Pete

I thnk they make a different one for the 400.
The pans are totally different and are made to clear.
The 4L80 is a HUGE tranny compared to the others.
I think Marks kit for the 400 comes with a special pan for the DS to clear it.
I wanted a 4 speed also

what do you need the LT230 for?

or any t-box...if it's just to haul your a** or a trailer, make it RWD only !:D

I put a 1998 6.5 TD/4L80E/atlas 3.8 into my 1980 Scout and love it. I had the 6.5 cpu chipped and run 4" exhaust, probably about 260hp and 450+ tq.
Having said and done that , i would not do an electronically controlled 6.5 again. EVER... Go with a 1993 for mech injection. I almost went with a 700R4 but decided the OEM mating would be easier. Trying to get the 700R4 to work with the cpu was not looking fun. I run 35" MTRS and 4:10's and it cruises at 2000rpm @ 70mph.
If you have any specific questions PM me
good luck with it...

So how about biodiesel vs vege oil?

I know of a NV4500 to LT230 behind a turbo 6.2 that is up for for sale. Give me a call.

JP

So how about biodiesel vs vege oil?

VO requires changes to the vehicle. Need a second fuel tank dedicated to the VO, heaters, etc. Also not all IPs are VO compatable. VO will make less power.

Biodiesel requires no vehicle mods. Can use the same fuel tank. Can switch back and forth between BD and Dinosaur based diesel. BD produces more power the VO, they same as Dinosaur.

When comparing to dino fuel, BD has same power, some get more. Better emissions. Smells better. The power and emissions data I got straight from the diesel emissions folks here in COSP. Their machines don't even get any emissions readings from some trucks that run BD. And they have had some customers score hire on the dyno after the switch.

Pete

I wheeled with a guy in WVA once who had a dark blue series 1 Disco with a 6.2 mated to the stock Disco ZF. We had a long conversation and he said he bought the motor mounts, exhaust manifolds, adapterplate and torque converter from Samuri in the UK. He made up the alt. mount etc. himself. Vehicle did very well on the trail. I'm really tempted to stick a 6.2 in my 110 if I could make up my mind on a transmission. I would think that it would turn into a great tow rig then. Someone in the US really needs to come out with a decent priced kit.

Someone in the US really needs to come out with a decent priced kit.

Easy, don't use any rover parts.

GM engine and tranny mated to an Atlas then get one of the vendors here to make you a double jointed rear shaft.
Done :D

Actually, now you could use the AA Orion t-box (designed for cruisers) that has an offset rear output.

Actually, now you could use the AA Orion t-box (designed for cruisers) that has an offset rear output.

Interesting. Technically its a rebuild Toy TC, not an entire replacement like the atlas is. But if you had a source for the TC this is definately a good option. "It is required that you reuse your stock fasteners, front and rear housings,
retainers, shafts, clutch sleeves, and cover plates"

But they do make adapters for the SM420/465 and NV4500 manuals as well as the TH350, TH400, and 700R4 autos.

The adapters are aprox 700, with the 4:1 gear set you are looking at around 2100$. Not sure current prices on an atlas 4:1 but that seems beeter, plus no need for a special drive shaft.

So how common are the LC TC's here in the US?

Interesting.
So how common are the LC TC's here in the US?


real common, if you are after the 40/60/fj80/fzj80 and taco/tundra stuff.

the rest of world 60 and 80 cases have pto out as well.

The fzj80 case is pretty stout, convertible to part-time very easily, and has a full lock option (requires a power source). It is part viscous, however, and it unlike the bw unit in rovers is a true viscous and not tied to the rear shaft like a bw.

j

real common, if you are after the 40/60/fj80/fzj80 and taco/tundra stuff.

the rest of world 60 and 80 cases have pto out as well.

The fzj80 case is pretty stout, convertible to part-time very easily, and has a full lock option (requires a power source). It is part viscous, however, and it unlike the bw unit in rovers is a true viscous and not tied to the rear shaft like a bw.

j

hmm, the Orion manual specifically talks about 10spline and 16spline case from 1963-1980 Land Cruisers. Its an all gear set up.

ever think about running a 3.9 4bt cummins?

yep the orion is all about the 40's and 55's. sorry. Still a damn strong case. I have been wheelin with several people that have them these days. I thought that someone, Marks? or someone in the uk made a 6.2 conversion for the bell housing? I seem to remember seeing ads all the time in LRO and such

VO requires changes to the vehicle. Need a second fuel tank dedicated to the VO, heaters, etc. Also not all IPs are VO compatable. VO will make less power.

Biodiesel requires no vehicle mods. Can use the same fuel tank. Can switch back and forth between BD and Dinosaur based diesel. BD produces more power the VO, they same as Dinosaur.

When comparing to dino fuel, BD has same power, some get more. Better emissions. Smells better. The power and emissions data I got straight from the diesel emissions folks here in COSP. Their machines don't even get any emissions readings from some trucks that run BD. And they have had some customers score hire on the dyno after the switch.

Pete

True, but if you do convert your truck with another tank and heater (heater hose through a coil in the tank) it can run on anything, including biodiesel.

There are way too many conversations going on in this thread!

There are way too many conversations going on in this thread!

Conversations or convertions?

Well I have ordered the kit from advanced adapters / marks4wd to install a 6.2 and turbo 400 in my 95 disco it will be here in 6 to 8 weeks i'll keep you posted. any one who wants more info e mai lme service@rovermedic.com

I hope to put together a kit at a good price once i'm done 6.2s are a dine a doz here in the states

Well I have ordered the kit from advanced adapters / marks4wd to install a 6.2 and turbo 400 in my 95 disco it will be here in 6 to 8 weeks i'll keep you posted. any one who wants more info e mai lme service@rovermedic.com

I hope to put together a kit at a good price once i'm done 6.2s are a dine a doz here in the states
What is the final cost? If you wouldn't mind sharing

What is the final cost? If you wouldn't mind sharing


ended up being about 1300.00

ended up being about 1300.00 Seems pricey, what was included?
Motor mounts, adapter plate, anything else?

That is what seems to have my cooling my heals on the whole chevy swap idea.
I can get a very nice chevy motor for short money, with all the power I could ever want for less than the adapters themselves.
I seem to remember coverting the aussie$ to US on the marks site for the 350 conversion in the $8-900 ballpark.(350 to zf).

Does Advanced import marks stuff, or reproduce it under license?

Seems pricey, what was included?
Motor mounts, adapter plate, anything else?

That is what seems to have my cooling my heals on the whole chevy swap idea.
I can get a very nice chevy motor for short money, with all the power I could ever want for less than the adapters themselves.
I seem to remember coverting the aussie$ to US on the marks site for the 350 conversion in the $8-900 ballpark.(350 to zf).

Does Advanced import marks stuff, or reproduce it under license?

they import it that was just a est. price they gave me will not know till it gets here 6 to 8 weeks can't wait

just using the currency convertor at xe.com
I had a aussie$ price of 1350. That converts to 996 us.
That was adaptor plates to the zf, motor mounts and headers.
No number for shipping. So $1300 seems to be the right ball park, as I assume there are customs and all that stuff to deal with.

Well I have ordered the kit from advanced adapters / marks4wd to install a 6.2 and turbo 400 in my 95 disco it will be here in 6 to 8 weeks i'll keep you posted. any one who wants more info e mai lme service@rovermedic.com

I hope to put together a kit at a good price once i'm done 6.2s are a dine a doz here in the states

I really hope you do a complete write up and post it here on pirate :D

Pete

I really hope you do a complete write up and post it here on pirate :D

Pete
x2

thanks for sharing about the adapter -they do seem proud of it! compared to rover diesel you probably will still come out on top.

i may have located a 6.2 NA - plan right now is to use an NA engine instead of the turbo, and mate it with an SM465 and then on to the LT230. no idea how yet. now that I have a DD rig, I can finish converting my wheeler back to farm equipment, just like the scout i should've kept with the T-19 and SD33T!

*sniff* Long Live the Scout!

http://nwrovers.com/pics/albums/ikescout/intl_leftfront.jpg

rangie leather seats would have looked good in it.

*sniff* Long Live the Scout!


I like scouts almost as much as I like Rovers. I had two of those Travelers, a 79 and an 80. Only reason I got rid of them was due to SWMBO getting transfered from VA to HI. Navy would only pay to ship one vehicle and it was too much $$ for us to ship all my off roaders. Still kicking myself in the ass for that sale. Almost as bad as selling the 98 Wrangler and the XJ when we left HI for WA. :(
We did have quit a caravan on the way from WA to here though. Neighbors dont understand why I need four trucks :)

SeaRover, do you plan on overhauling the engine or running as is for now?
Mine had 104k on it and ran great but I figured I would do a complete overhaul just to be on the safe side.
Machine shop only polished the journals and patterned the cylinders. Stocks bearings and rings.
I did get the rotating mass balanced, but other then that it really was a big waste of time and $$ given the milage.

You can always run it stock and see what you think and later on add a Banks turbo

yeah I still kick myself for selling it. it was an '80 so had the rustproofing on the frame, D44's and 3.73's. The T19 was not wide-ratio, but i still miss hearing that turbo spin down between shifts! it was my little semi :) my plans had been to restore it back to showroom quality, use it for camping and hiking - e.g. not a wheeler. It was 100% complete, and the interior would not have been overly difficult to restore. I had the complete line sheet for it; came with the factory AC option and a couple other rarities, including the finned alloys.

It was a one owner truck and the fella had raised his family inside it before retiring it for a 2 seater after his kids moved away. Now I think it's rotting in someone's yard, which makes me sad. anyhow - for afficianodos here's a link to the ticket. kind nof interesting to read through!

line_setting_ticket_big.jpg (http://nwrovers.com/pics/albums/ikescout/line_setting_ticket_big.jpg)

interior shot -

http://nwrovers.com/pics/albums/ikescout/intl_interior.jpg

i will probably run the 6.2 w/o touching it. i can't afford the motor and a rebuild at the same time, so i'm looking at one with low miles - 50k.

it's supposedly off a military truck, which may have the coveted "J" code intake. THe problem is that I think i'll need the EGR valve to fool the emissions people when I do the swap.

question: do i need an ECU to run the egr valve or emissions equipment? I'm going to be running 100% biodiesel and eventually WVO, so it's not like I'll really need it. I'd rather not have to. GIven the motors didn't change much from the mid 80's through 91, the MY of my rig, I'm hoping I can get away with it with the greenie EPA and licensing dolts.

the 4.10's and the SM465 i should have a 87:1 crawl ... with endless torque around 1200 RPM i think this would be ideal for a wheeler.

After recouperating some $$$, I'm thinking a roverdrive on the back ofmy LT230 will give me the best of all worlds. Low crawl, and about a 2300 RPM cruise at 65.

it's supposedly off a military truck, which may have the coveted "J" code intake. THe problem is that I think i'll need the EGR valve to fool the emissions people when I do the swap.

question: do i need an ECU to run the egr valve or emissions equipment? I'm going to be running 100% biodiesel and eventually WVO, so it's not like I'll really need it. I'd rather not have to. GIven the motors didn't change much from the mid 80's through 91, the MY of my rig, I'm hoping I can get away with it with the greenie EPA and licensing dolts.



I don't think there was any ECU for the 6.2s. they started the computer controls on the 94 6.5TD. Do you have to smog it because of the swap? I swapped in the 6.5 into a scout that was already a diesel, so no smog..

Yeah I didn't know Seattle smogged diesels. Thought it was only gassers.

they don't smog 'em per se but they do have have to take some kind of particulate test. the issue is the legality of the swap itself, because of the 10,000 fine for tampering with the emissions system :mad3:

hopefully i can get away with it. it hasn't been licensed / tagged for 3 maybe 4 years now because the gasser in there won't pass emissions. I just wheel it on a 3-day temp pass when I want to go off-road. this sucks azzzzzzz....

run Biodiesel through it when they test it...lol
that should make them wonder WTF? And they may crave french fries....

are the na 6.2s hard to find?
is this like one of those dana 60 searches or do these motors fall out of trees.

compared to other diesels ... they are plentiful.

my kit should be in next week engine is going to rebuild shop mon so get ready advanceadapters had the shit in stock!!!!!!!!!!!!!

are the na 6.2s hard to find?
is this like one of those dana 60 searches or do these motors fall out of trees.
Everyone is looking for a Dana 60 but there are few people looking for 6.2s

i know next to nothing about deisel engines. is this a hard motor to rebuild? what kinds of things can be done in the home garage? i have rebuilt sbcs, 22res, and the occasional ford 302. never worked on a deisel.
what would be a good junkyard price for one of these?

i know next to nothing about deisel engines. is this a hard motor to rebuild? what kinds of things can be done in the home garage? i have rebuilt sbcs, 22res, and the occasional ford 302. never worked on a deisel.
what would be a good junkyard price for one of these?

If you have rebuilt sbc's you will have no problem with the 6.2/6.5. I rebuilt mine about 4k miles ago with no issues and it runs great. i took the block to have it checked/mag'd and took it home from there and basic tools put it back together. there are a few great resource sites just for these engines PM me if you need them.
the main differences are the fuel system/compression ratios, get a good manual and good luck.:smokin: :smokin:

i know next to nothing about deisel engines. is this a hard motor to rebuild? what kinds of things can be done in the home garage? i have rebuilt sbcs, 22res, and the occasional ford 302. never worked on a deisel.
what would be a good junkyard price for one of these?

Agree with DOc, if you can build an SBC you can build a 6.2.

Only special tool I can think of off the top of my head is the injector socket.
Everything else is just a regular metric fastener.

they don't smog 'em per se but they do have have to take some kind of particulate test. the issue is the legality of the swap itself, because of the 10,000 fine for tampering with the emissions system :mad3:


10k$$ :eek:

Is that a State thing or county?
Either way contact who ever would be "in charge" of assessing the fine and ask them if a conversion to a diesel engine constitutes tampering with the emissions.
IE if you use all of the controls that are specific to the engine in question are you ok?

Pete

Well,

This is not tech just my opinion on the GM diesel...I have owned 2 of them personally. The dreaded old 6.2 gas conversion in a Caddie....that I drove over 200k and only changed the oil in the damn thing and never had a problem with it accept a starter wire getting up behind the heat protector plate and melting where it directly grounded the starter and engaged it to a point to where it melted down two batteries for I could get a wrench and pull the battery cable.

The thing got excellent milage...all I have ever heard is one bad thing and another about that engine. Mine was in a Cadillac so it was just used for street not pulling anything so maybe why I never had a minutes trouble out of it.

On the other hand I bought a 1995 Suburban 4X4 2500 3/4 ton with the with the 6.5L V8 Turbo Diesel in it...I bought the truck used it had a whopping 36,000 miles on it when I bought it....coming from a diesel truck back ground I LOVE diesels my dad drives only Ford diesels my younger brother has switched from Ford to Dodge...so I WAS the GM son in the family so I got the 6.5 to make my GM statement...what a statement it was...one freaking problem after another until at 75K I had enough and took the freaking POS back to the dealer and told them I WANTED out of this diesel POS TODAY...I bought it from them and it had been in the shop...2 new tranny's in a little over 40K and I wanted something else.....where they put me into a brand new 1997 Yukon SWB 4x4 SLT that I drove to 186K and never hardly had a problem out of it accept the fuel pump and alternator going out.

I WANT a diesel in my Disco BAD but it would have to be a 300TDI or the 2.8 powerstroke as I don't trust ANY GM diesel because of personal NOTHING but bad experience with the GM 6.5 POS I had.

I will say the GM Suburban was a nice rig though...never had one problem with the truck just that #$%^&*( Gawd Damn 6.5 Diesel engine.)

The dealer made it right though and got me out of that Gawd forsaken POS and into a gas guzzling Vortect 350 gas guzzler.

I can think of a LONG list of diesel engines I would love to be able to put in my Disco and the GM doesn't even make the list. If you are having great luck with yours then more power to you...I think mine was just a freaking lemon to make me look bad and give me dad and brother something else to rag on my GM products about.

Oh just on a personal story level my best experience with my GMC 6.5 diesel...I had only had the damn thing like 4 months barely over 45k on the clock...at my grandmothers funeral everyone is lined up to leave the church and parade to the cemetary when we all line up our cars and trucks turn our lights on to get ready to go.

I killed my truck while waiting as the diesel is noisey as soon as the procession started I reached to turn on my truck and guess what it wouldn't start. It never did start...I waived down my dad and we rode with him to the cemetary in his Ford Powerstroke no doubt.

I had to have my truck towed to the nearest dealer which was Lubbock, Texas a good 80 miles away where they replaced a bad injector pump.

I had bought the exteneded 75K warranty on the truck (THANK GOD) so it never actually cost me any money when it broke down it was just a royal pain the ass and it always broke down in the worst f'ing places.

Again at 75k right before warranty ran out I ran away from that POS as fast as I could and never looked back.

The 6.2 was not the gas conversion it was a 5.7. Bummer you had a bad experiance with the 6.5. If you move the PMD off the pump the injection pump will last much longer. There are plently of 6.5 guys who have figured that out and have several hundred thousand mile on em. I am more than happy with my 6.5 swap and hope to put many more miles on..:D

The dreaded old 6.2 gas conversion in a Caddie....

...2 new tranny's in a little over 40K and I wanted something else........NOTHING but bad experience with the GM 6.5 POS I had.

I will say the GM Suburban was a nice rig though...never had one problem with the truck just that #$%^&*( Gawd Damn 6.5 Diesel engine.)


The 6.2 is a Detroit Diesel designed from the ground up deisel engine. The 5.7 was the gas-diesel conversion.
The 6.5 is an updated 6.2 basically a factory intalled Banks turbo, serpantine drive accessories and computer controls :barf:
The early electronic controlled IPs on the 6.5s did have problems that got corrected. Tons of tech out there now on how to bring the early ones up to date.

You bitch about the engine, but then only reference 2 bad trannies. Here we go again :shaking:

Pete

The 6.2 is a Detroit Diesel designed from the ground up deisel engine. The 5.7 was the gas-diesel conversion.
The 6.5 is an updated 6.2 basically a factory intalled Banks turbo, serpantine drive accessories and computer controls :barf:
The early electronic controlled IPs on the 6.5s did have problems that got corrected. Tons of tech out there now on how to bring the early ones up to date.

You bitch about the engine, but then only reference 2 bad trannies. Here we go again :shaking:

Pete

Sorry not sure what the here we go again comment was all about....maybe I missed a before thread. My Caddi had the 5.7 gas conversion then...the motor looked exactly like any old 350 gas engine.

I bought the truck from GM and I bought an extended warranty on the thing that meant I was not able to work on anything on the truck or it would have voided the warranty. My brother-in-law is a diesel machanic and has been for over 20yrs. He actually warned me against buying the damn GM Diesel but I had my mind made up. I should have listened it was an all around bad experience. The thing broke down on me....hmm

Once on the beach 10 miles into deep sand on South Padre Island, Texas
Even a wrecker couldn't get to me and get me out. Had to leave it setting on the beach and take a taxi back into Padre and walk the streets looking for someone with a 4x4 rig that could pull my POS back to the highway so a wrecker would pick it up and take it to the dealership 40 miles away in Brownsville, Texas. We sat in a hotel for 4 days until I was able to find a guy with a jacked up Yota that I paid $50 bucks to pull me out and he actually pulled me all the way back to South Pardre.

Some sort of relay BS shorted out and caused the truck to die on me in Caddilac, Michigan. I got it to the shop there...where they had it for 2 days and supposedly got it fixed. I picked it up and drove about 100 miles north to Bay City, Michigan for the tuff man contest to where as soon as I pulled into town in died and I coasted into the Wal-Mart parking lot...my hotel was in the Wal-Mart parking lot...the Fairfield Inn...so I just checked in and left the POS sitting where it died since it was about 5 degrees outside.

Called the dealership back in Caddilac and they sent a flat bed wrecker to pick it up, fix it and actually returned it via flat bed wrecker to me a couple days later. Actually fixed this time for awhile...the truck was bought to use over the road like any diesel should be capable of...this one was not up to the challenge.

Of course I already listed the breakdown at my Grand Mothers funeral...there were about 7 more times in the shop motor problems, relatively small motor problems, but still back in the shop...and then yes we had the two tranny failures...but allot of diesels have had that problem...my advice is don't by an automatic diesel truck...get a standard...they handle all the power and torq much better than a auto.

Again, if you are having good luck with yours...than great...I have been told the old 6.2 actually could use a tear down and rebuild at 100k...to me that is not a diesel engine...but whatever floats your boat.

To me a diesel engine is like the old International 6.7 my dad has in his old 1984 Ford F-250 that is pushing over 400k on damn near everything original on the truck. I went with him to the dealer in 1984 I was 13yrs old in the 7th grade when he bought that truck brand new..and he still drives in everyday as his horse shoeing rig..hauling an anvil and cutting torch bottles...and about 2000lbs of Horse Shoes in the back of the damn thing.

Only thing he has really done to it is change all the injectors and the injector pump rebuilt like at 250k when he had a huge loss of power and was smoking way to much. He has a 1999 Powerstroke as well that he uses to pull 36ft stock trailer with 6 head of horses in it..or full of cattle.

The 1984 model has probably actually been washed twice in it's entire life..it is used and has been used on a West Texas ranch about as hard as any pickup truck possible could be.

My GM diesel didn't have to do shit but pull a little enclosed construction trailer with ladders on top and maybe 300lbs in it all over the United States and it couldn't even handle that reliably. Of course the gas Vortec I traded it for handled it all just fine no problems hardly at all to almost 200k when I got rid of it.

I have actually thought about a Vortec conversion for my Disco as well and have looked into it and believe me if I had of had nothing but GOOD experience with my GM diesel you think I would be searching out doing a Vortec conversion on my Disco. One other side note my brother-in-law who is the diesel machanic bought a 1996 Dodge Cummings Quad Cab not even a year after I got my GMC Diesel Burban...he is still driving the damn thing with like 200k on the clock and not a problem ever with the truck. We just repainted the damn thing and restored it to look brand new and he is in the process of souping it up now and giving it even more power.

Sorry not sure what the here we go again comment was all about.

Sorry, I meant stay in context. If you have complaints about the engine then tell us, not changed the tranny twice :D

I am a firm believer in NOT buying something during the first two years it gets introduced or modded heavily. Let them work out the bugs first.

There are issues with the early 6.2s and 6.5s which have been listed in another thread. Rebuild either engine at 100k...nope.

I think maybe I should reread the title to this one. Its asking about mounts not about engine problems :laughing:

Pete

Sorry, I meant stay in context. If you have complaints about the engine then tell us, not changed the tranny twice :D

I am a firm believer in NOT buying something during the first two years it gets introduced or modded heavily. Let them work out the bugs first.

There are issues with the early 6.2s and 6.5s which have been listed in another thread. Rebuild either engine at 100k...nope.

I think maybe I should reread the title to this one. Its asking about mounts not about engine problems :laughing:

Pete

That can work either way Aloharover...again like I said my dad bought a 1984 Diesel Ford as soon as they hit the market when International designed and built the engine for Ford again the truck has around 400k on the clock and no problems really what so ever.

I have a 1994 Land Rover Discovery I bought new in 1995 the around the same time I bought the Suburban it was my city around town truck..I actually used it over the road allot because the suburban was so unreliable or everytime the suburban was acting up I would just say screw it and take the Disco. My Discovery is pushing 200k and I have changed an alternator and a few other minor things but so far knock on wood no major failures, but I only about a year ago really started playing with it offroad.

Again, Land Rover was building a Discovery they were hoping could come into the US and compete in the market so they built the 1994's right IMHO. I know guys with newer model D1's who have had one problem after another...so the bug issue can work either agains you or for you.

I guess it all boils down to luck and for me if it weren't for bad luck I would have not luck at all...lmao :smokin:

Give me a 300TDI or a 2.8 Powerstroke diesel for my Discovery you guys can keep your GM diesels and more power to you. I want a really real diesel not the dreaded junk GM wannabe POS. :flipoff2:

Also Aloharover if memory serves me you made a statement about the Diesel 300TDI Discovery I posted saying sum shyte like get a real diesel, and I wondered what diesel you were referring too. Please tell me it isn't the one I had in my Burban you are calling a real diesel...if it is I am going to have to pick myself up off the floor as I fell out of my chair from laughing so hard.

I would call any diesel made a real diesel accept the damn dreaded GM Detroit POS.

That Discovery 1 with the 300 TDI is wheeled all the time never one problem with the motor..in over 4yrs. It just goes and goes and goes.

I think maybe I should reread the title to this one. Its asking about mounts not about engine problems


Ok let me get back on topic here since I got so far off and it is bothering Aloharover.

Hopefully this will answer the mount question....

Mount that POS is anyones truck but mine...you could not give me a GM diesel 6.2 or 6.5...

hopefully that anwsers the mouting problem and good luck mounting the worse diesel engine made in your truck....your gonna need it.

Pete - I believe this is a state law. I got the number to someone in the Department of Ecology to call today - wish me luck! The highway patrol does the inspection. you have to get a slip of paper back from them so you can get your registration changed over to diesel and then get through smog.

it sucks, but hey - at least my truck doesn't have to pass MOT. it would NEVER be on the road in that case :laughing: :eek: :laughing:

Since the emissions controls didn't really change until '94, I'm going to try and sweet talk some folks into letting me use an '85 engine with '91 - '93 EGR intake and whatever else small ancillaries are needed to comply with emissiosn equipment for that year.

The letter of the law states that using an engine older than your vehicle is illegal. I'm going to try to argue a case for retrofitting an engine up to '91 standards since it was the same damned motor. I've found a good military 6.2 with 50k miles out of a 1-ton pickup. seems promising if i can just figure out a way to skirt all the friggen red tape.

as for the 2.8TGV, I can't use it because there's no CARB number for it. I could go with a 300TDi but I don't have that kind of coin.

parts is parts.


10k$$ :eek:

Is that a State thing or county?
Either way contact who ever would be "in charge" of assessing the fine and ask them if a conversion to a diesel engine constitutes tampering with the emissions.
IE if you use all of the controls that are specific to the engine in question are you ok?

Pete

How would there be a CARB number for a 300tdi? It was never sold in the US.

SeaRover,

Buddy I just want you to know I am not trying to bust your bubble. I was just trying to give you a first hand account of someone who actually owned one of these diesels when almost new 36K which for a diesel should be pratically brand new.

I am sure with all the tech out there these days yours will work fine for your application. In my opinion of diesels though it is still the bottom of the barrel and there is a very good reason for that.

Get it in there and put some really real miles on it and let us know how it works for you.

SeaRover,

Buddy I just want you to know I am not trying to bust your bubble. I was just trying to give you a first hand account of someone who actually owned one of these diesels when almost new 36K which for a diesel should be pratically brand new.

:shaking:
You have zero experiance with the na 6.2

How would there be a CARB number for a 300tdi? It was never sold in the US.

Would the Army be required to have a CARB#?
If so, there is the route.

that is true i forgot about the small number of 300tdi 110s owned by the US military. although i am not sure if they are required to be emissions compliant... i am guessing not but you never know.

:shaking:
You have zero experiance with the na 6.2

Hey Alahorover I NEVER said I had any experience with the 6.2 Einstein. :shaking:

I said I have experience with the 5.7 and the 6.5 Turbo which is the exact engine he quoted he wants to put in his truck.....so you can stop with the spin zone already it is getting old.

his quote

i'm pretty intent on swapping in a 6.5 turbo in my LWB in the near future

I have more experience with that POS diesel than I would care to have ever had. From my own PERSONAL experience with that engine I would not even trust it as a boat anchor...maybe target practice for my old 44 Magnum.

Hey Alahorover I NEVER said I had any experience with the 6.2 Einstein. :shaking:

I said I have experience with the 5.7 and the 6.5 Turbo which is the exact engine he quoted he wants to put in his truck.....so you can stop with the spin zone already it is getting old.


He had just posted that he has found an ex Mil 6.2 so that is what we are talking about. Post #50, 53, & 74. The decision as to which engine was made prior to any of your posts. It was also stated that there is another thread discussing the merits of the actual engine. The idea is now that the engine is selected how to put it in the vehicle. I am not in a spin zone, just tired of you and the lack of ability to remain in context.

that is true i forgot about the small number of 300tdi 110s owned by the US military. although i am not sure if they are required to be emissions compliant... i am guessing not but you never know.

Yeah, no idea what rules and regulations apply. The Army doesn't register its vehicles in the state and doesn't need license plates to run the roads.
There are a bunch of SOVs at Ft. Lewis. Not the same county as Seattle, but might be able to find out if the State/County is aware of the engine.

Pete - I believe this is a state law. I got the number to someone in the Department of Ecology to call today - wish me luck! The highway patrol does the inspection. you have to get a slip of paper back from them so you can get your registration changed over to diesel and then get through smog.

Since the emissions controls didn't really change until '94, I'm going to try and sweet talk some folks into letting me use an '85 engine with '91 - '93 EGR intake and whatever else small ancillaries are needed to comply with emissiosn equipment for that year.

The letter of the law states that using an engine older than your vehicle is illegal. I'm going to try to argue a case for retrofitting an engine up to '91 standards since it was the same damned motor.

Interesting it's a State law because so few of the counties even require emmisions. Wonder what would happen if you moved to Seattle from another State and already had the conversion in place?

Let me know if you need any help running down a 91 intake.
and good luck with the phone call.
Pete

hot damn! all lights are green. can't post what i was told, but it can be done.

combo is likely going to be 6.2NA with either a NV4500 or, I may go SM465 and roverdrive on the LT230. need to see how it prices out. need to call dutchmans to see about cutting a spud shaft from new stock to mate into the LT230. have a machinist on standby for making some plate adapters to get the cases to mate and get the proper oil seal on the output of the trans. looks promising so far.

i'll have a good running ZF and 3.9 for sale. the 3.9 doesn't pass emissions but runs strong. i suspect the MAF or ECU; pretty much everything else is brand new sensor wise.

re CARB #'s - i didn't know the 300TDi didn't have one?! oh well ...

at least in WA state, the rule is that you have to repower with an engine of the same make and be in the same model year or newer.

hot damn! all lights are green.

Awsome. :D

If you can afford it go the NV route. The SM465 has an awsome low, but for all praticle purposes its a 3 spd on the highway.

Your best powerband and mpg is going to be in the 1900-2800 range. Try and work your tires/gearing/tranny so that you are in the 22-2400 area for most highway driving.

I had no problems leaving "Andy" or a 300tdi D90 going over Snoqualmi during the 02 NWC. You should be pretty happy when its all sadi and done.

Now you just need to get a second hand H2O heater and start brewing up some biodiesel

Pete

<< Now you just need to get a second hand H2O heater and start brewing up some biodiesel >>

hell yeah! I'm going to get some bumperstickers made, too -

___________________________________
| MY 4x4 IS GREENER THAN YOUR HONDA |
|---------------------------------------|
| Powered by Biodiesel |
-----------------------------------------


ok ... back to the tech

re: gearing. thanks for the operating range - this had been one of my concerns. I'm going to be using 4.10 yota diffs. so yeah, gearing is going to be a problem with a 1:1 trans and 1.2 high-range.

to use the SM465 4-speed, I was thinking about installing a roverdrive unit at the same time. This would give me a a side benefit of being able to split to a higher ratio on the fly while in low range. with 4.10's the crawl ratio in 1st low will be 87:1. using the roverdrive i can split that on the fly and have more usable gears off-road than by just using an NV4500 by itself. The price is about the same; just spoke to rocky mountain and they quoted $1300 for the roverdrive. I haven't seen NV's go for less than about $1000.

looks like freeway RPM's with the SM465 and roverdrive would be 2600 @ 70 and about 2200 @ 60MPH. Getting the 465 with hydraulic clutch bellhousing all setup seems to be about $300.

as far as streetability, the 465 won't shift worth a damn and will lose revs between shifts. the gearing is also alot better on the NV4500 - nuther gear to play with at sub-freeway speeds around 40mph

SM465 6.55 | 3.58 | 1.57 | 1
NV4500 6.34 | 3.44 | 1.71 | 1 | 0.73

hmmm...

ok ... back to the tech

re: gearing. thanks for the operating range - this had been one of my concerns. I'm going to be using 4.10 yota diffs. so yeah, gearing is going to be a problem with a 1:1 trans and 1.2 high-range.

to use the SM465 4-speed, I was thinking about installing a roverdrive unit at the same time. This would give me a a side benefit of being able to split to a higher ratio on the fly while in low range. with 4.10's the crawl ratio in 1st low will be 87:1. using the roverdrive i can split that on the fly and have more usable gears off-road than by just using an NV4500 by itself. The price is about the same; just spoke to rocky mountain and they quoted $1300 for the roverdrive. I haven't seen NV's go for less than about $1000.

looks like freeway RPM's with the SM465 and roverdrive would be 2600 @ 70 and about 2200 @ 60MPH. Getting the 465 with hydraulic clutch bellhousing all setup seems to be about $300.

as far as streetability, the 465 won't shift worth a damn and will lose revs between shifts. the gearing is also alot better on the NV4500 - nuther gear to play with at sub-freeway speeds around 40mph

SM465 6.55 | 3.58 | 1.57 | 1
NV4500 6.34 | 3.44 | 1.71 | 1 | 0.73

hmmm...

Yeah the 465 is definately a cheeper option. I picked up a low milage tranny down in Eugene for 75$. Went with a new Novak main shaft and adapter plate to a Dana-18. This case has the same rear off set as Rovers and old Cruisers. The 18 got a new Saturn overdrive and 3.13 low gears from Advanced.

Its great combo off road, can crawl over anything with the engine running 1000-1500 rpms. Hit the skinny when it gets too steep, but it just putts along great otherwise.

The problem as you mention is streetability. On hills I end up hitting 3500 before the gear change. This is highway and around town. Its doable but ends up hurting milage. At sea level as long as I was careful with the skinny I was getting 24-25mpg, here its 19-21. Remember my 88 is pushing 5000lbs too.
I am seriously considering getting a different tranny and Atlas when I rebuild her next. its difficult trying to keep the daily driver milage and the off roadablity all in one vehicle. I have been thinking about maybe getting a gear splitter like Mike put into the Icecream Truck. I am stretching the wheel base so drive shaft wont be an issue.

When I first did the conversion it was a question of $$. Even with all the parts from Novak and Advanced I had under 1500 into the transmission and tcase.

Pete

good info on the driveability. the more i think about it, the more i'm swayed toward the NV4500. that first to second gap is too huge to be a decent driver, and i plan on a lot of highway miles to get to offroad destinations. I may have a line on a NV down in oregon. if only i could get the LWB running now so i can actually pick some of this stuff up! seems kind of silly to be planning on this swap when I get defeated by setting the dizzy. :laughing:

Not really, a diesel doesn't have a distributor so it sounds like a step in the right direction for ya!

Not really, a diesel doesn't have a distributor so it sounds like a step in the right direction for ya!

and if i keep going in the right direction, the 6.2 is going to find it's way into a 109. hmmm.... can i fit a 109 shell on my 108" LWB? :idea:

no no! bad isaac! bad!!

and if i keep going in the right direction, the 6.2 is going to find it's way into a 109. hmmm.... can i fit a 109 shell on my 108" LWB?

Yes. I thought the RRC LWB was a 109 or 110 wb?
But the engine into the engine compartment needs some tinkering. Use a Defender front and it's easier.

Pete

and if i keep going in the right direction, the 6.2 is going to find it's way into a 109. hmmm.... can i fit a 109 shell on my 108" LWB? :idea:

no no! bad isaac! bad!!

well either way Isaaic, i need to follow up on your engine change...after all i have been thinking of doing the same with the disco...since i never bought Slades spare 4.2 when i hd the $$ handy! damn!
....and if it's realistic i may try to convince my friend to pull out the 4.2 in his lwb rangie and give to me for disco(or the other mothballed hybrid project) instead and install the 6.2(5?) in JoE's rangie instead? Pete? what was the engine in '93/94? only the 6.5 or did they still use the 6.2 in some applications? would rather the simplicity of the 6.2, but CARB rules state same year or newer if i recall?(funny you thought the tdi300 had a carb #! if it did there'd be dozens in CA!

damn california..can't build an ak-47 and can't install an older than model year engine in your vehicle! grrr!!

Paul(who finde it ridiculout tht i can install a '06 corvette engine fully legally, but not an older diesel!)

Pete? what was the engine in '93/94? only the 6.5 or did they still use the 6.2 in some applications?

There is the trick. The 6.2 was still being used in Military humvees. I don't think the switch was made until the 94-96 time frame.
It is possible that GM was still making the engine for other things, even if it wasn't offered on the show room floor.I believe the 6.2 was offered in GM light trucks through the 93 model year.
6.5 started in 92. Think 92-94 had mechanical injection, switch to electronic in 95.

How does the fact that you can still get new crate engine from GM effect this?

Also you can get a 6.5TD and use a mechanical injector pump. There you have a single wire engine, no computer.

Pete

I don't know very much about diesels, other than I want one, but IIRC I read last night that the mechanical pump was a bad design and not really recomended. You can check it out at gm-diesel.com (www.gm-diesel.com) I hope this is the correct website, I did a lot of reading late into the night. Had something to do with the, what seemed very likely possibility that fuel could leak into the engine oil therefore wrecking the engine.

Keep posting as much info as possible, I am very interested in your progress.

Tim

I have been a member of TheDieselPage.com for 4 years now and dieselplace.com for close to the same.
I have a friend that is a civilian diesel tech for the Army since the late 80's and has rebuilt and repaired many 6.2s and 6.5s
I began driving and working on 6.2s when I joined the Army in 84.
When I worked as an apprentice at the hotrod resto shop the owners had 6.2 Subs and pickups that I would work on.
I sent my short block to a machine shop to get it balanced but the rest of the build I did myself.
Those have been my sources. The only 6.5s I have worked on were NA in humvees.
I dont have any experiance with the electronic IPs I only know what my friend told me and what I have read on those two forums. And that has been the early electric IPs had mucho problems. And I have read were people will replace it with a mechanical set up, just like the 6.2, and loose all the computer controls. Now I don't know the legality of this in SMOG areas, but it supposedly works just fine.

The mechanical sits in the valley between the heads. Shaft out the front of the IP goes through the timing cover. Gear on shaft engages gear on the cam. There is at least one oring on this shaft to keep the fuel on the IP side of things.
There are people that are getting 200k+ miles out of the DB-2 pump. The very earliest ones (84,85) had some issues internally where the seals would break down and clog up the inner workings of the pump.
I am not saying that fuel couldn't leak into the engine, but I don't think its very common. And any sort of leak would cause a change in performance and milage. And an easy check would be to look at the oil level.



Pete

Again, I'm not knowledgable of diesels, just saw a thread on this before reading the earlier post. IIRC the author did say the original electric pumps were iffy and gave an alternative. I don't want to try to repeat too much of it because as I said it was verrrrry early this morning. Just thought I'd post it as alternative reading. :)

Tim

Also, (tried to post this yesterday) there is a write up where a guy did a 6.2 swap into a 1980 rangie at landyonline.com.za/techtalk/dv8_conversion_pages/engine.htm

Tim

Also, (tried to post this yesterday) there is a write up where a guy did a 6.2 swap into a 1980 rangie at landyonline.com.za/techtalk/dv8_conversion_pages/engine.htm

Tim

I had to change it to .co.za to get that link to work. But very interesting project.
http://www.landyonline.co.za/techtalk/dv8_conversion_pages/

lt230 to turbo 400 ikit is here next few weeks will be very interesting

first prob make sure you 400 has a 32 spline short output shaft

I had to change it to .co.za ]
Sorry about that, I looked it over about three times and didn't catch that.

Tim