Are the 8 lug spindles the same as the 6 lug? Disc brakes on both.

Yes, as long as you get the same "design" axle, they are the same.

first "design" goes to 76 and the second "design" goes from 77 and up.

BTW:
2nd design spindles are stronger. They are larger (and thicker) where the inner bearing is (the bearing is also bigger). They both use the same outter wheel bearing and the same seal.

Originally posted by Esteban86K5
Yes, as long as you get the same "design" axle, they are the same.

first "design" goes to 76 and the second "design" goes from 77 and up.


Yep, what he said!

Well I just picked up an 8 lug 44. I think it might have been a 78, but I'm not sure. I was hoping to use the spindles on my disc conversion, but they will need to work with ford hubs. If the inner bearing is bigger then I think I might have a problem.

I imagine it would be easy to trade these for some older ones?

Yes, the large-bearing spindles will fit the proper 6 or 8-lub hubs. And the old small-bearing spindles will fit Ford hubs. You'll also need the smaller backing plates to use the GM calipers on the 5-lug Ford rotors. I have the backing plates you'll want, and I could really use your large backing plates and 8-lug stuff - however, I've got the large-bearing spindles too, and no Ford hubs.

Also, the spindle bolt pattern is rotated on the disc-brake stuff relative to the drum-brake applications, so you'll want to use the knuckles off your 8-lug setup.

Originally posted by Lloyd
Yes, the large-bearing spindles will fit the proper 6 or 8-lub hubs. And the old small-bearing spindles will fit Ford hubs. You'll also need the smaller backing plates to use the GM calipers on the 5-lug Ford rotors. I have the backing plates you'll want, and I could really use your large backing plates and 8-lug stuff - however, I've got the large-bearing spindles too, and no Ford hubs.

Also, the spindle bolt pattern is rotated on the disc-brake stuff relative to the drum-brake applications, so you'll want to use the knuckles off your 8-lug setup.

I've got one side apart, and the inner bearing from my ford drum brakes is too small. So I assume I do have the large bearing spindles.

As for swapping knuckles, I know lot of Early bronco guys use their stock knuckles with the cheby stuff. I don't see why placement of the calipers would be critical?? I'll probably swap knuckles anyway. Only one is flat top though :(

I don't think I want to deal with shipping, but if you were local I would certainly trade. The 8 lug front end was full time, so it didn't have hubs. One rotor was pretty wasted, and both were rusted. I haven't narrowed my rear 60 yet, so I can consider leaving it 8lug now. I'm told it's more complicated to cut down a full floater. I was going to put 9" ends on it. Guess I have few more options to think about now.

Yes, you've got the big-bearing spindles. And it does work both ways; you can put the small-bearing GM hubs on Ford spindles. On the backing plates, the small 1/2-ton GM rotors are 11-5/8" and the big ones are 12-1/2" so if you use the big backing plates on a small rotor, you've got 1/2" of your pads grabbing air. Also makes the calipers get in the way if you try to mount 15" wheels with more than 2" backspacing.

Personally I think you'd be happier retaining the 8-lug and full-float rear; unless you've got a compelling reason not to, like new tires on expensive beadlocks in another bolt pattern. I've heard that the 9" bearings don't hold up well to side-loading (Grim Reaper, I think, commenting he'd seen many of the C-clip eliminator kits on 12-bolts fail this way). I don't have any experience on this.

Just curious, are your hubs set up for internal or external? I assume they've got slugs? Never seen a fulltime GM 8-lug 44, and was wondering what they've got.

I'm leaving all my options open right now. Cost is the biggest factor though. I don't want full width. I still need to narrow My rear 60. If I use 9" ends, I have access to a jig, and then I can run 35 spline axles and disc brakes dirt cheap. I'm currently still running on my ford 7.5". It just won't die. So I've got mismatch lug patterns already and packin 2 spares.

I think I'd like to stay with a 15" wheel. That's all I really care about.

Anyway, this 8 lug 44 came from what I believe is a 78 truck. It had a 14 bolt in the rear. That's all I really know. It's got 4.10(open). The short axle is a direct replacement for my EB short axle.

I scored the works for a grand total of $20...yep twenty bucks :D Rescued it from the scrapper. I fear the 14 bolt won't be saved.

I guess this would be set up for external.... I have it apart if you want to see pictures of the pieces.

http://home.earthlink.net/~mattsara/bb/8lug44a.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~mattsara/bb/8lug44b.jpg

Gee, if you want to get rid of those nasty ol' drive flanges so you can run manual lockouts I'll be delighted to buy them from you.

You *could* just run large-bearing Chevy 6-lug hubs on your spindles, convert the rear to SF and just use 6-lug SF axles there to match. You did say that you wanted rear discs and a 15-inch rim, but didn't mention a 5-lug pattern as being necessary. If you want to do this, I'll trade my hubs, rotors and backing plates for yours. My hubs are setup for internal lockouts - which will come with the hubs - but they are done. To make it fair, include your drive flanges and I'll get the freight both ways. UPS calculator shows about $30 for ground from 87025 to 98273 for a 50 lb. 15" cube (my guess). Let me know.

Originally posted by Nobody
I'm leaving all my options open right now. Cost is the biggest factor though. I don't want full width. I still need to narrow My rear 60. If I use 9" ends, I have access to a jig, and then I can run 35 spline axles and disc brakes dirt cheap. I'm currently still running on my ford 7.5". It just won't die. So I've got mismatch lug patterns already and packin 2 spares.

I think I'd like to stay with a 15" wheel. That's all I really care about.

Anyway, this 8 lug 44 came from what I believe is a 78 truck. It had a 14 bolt in the rear. That's all I really know. It's got 4.10(open). The short axle is a direct replacement for my EB short axle.

I scored the works for a grand total of $20...yep twenty bucks :D Rescued it from the scrapper. I fear the 14 bolt won't be saved.

I guess this would be set up for external.... I have it apart if you want to see pictures of the pieces.

http://home.earthlink.net/~mattsara/bb/8lug44a.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~mattsara/bb/8lug44b.jpg
I think that's older that you think it is. GM pretty well guit using that style hub I think by 76 at the latest. I'm think it was closer to 74. The 3/4 tons in 78 should be running the same internal locking hub(or inthe case of a 203 equipped truck that it looks like that came out of the drive slug) hub as the 1/2 ton. If I'm right about the years that may also have a smaller u-joint. I'm guessing 74 since it had a 14. GM used 60's in the rear though about 73 on the 3/4 ton axles.
78 was about the time GM went to 10 bolt fronts also.
As for the 9 inch comment. I wheel with a couple folks with 79 Bronco and a 79 F150. With the bearings being pressed on and being used to retain the axle in a SF configuration they don't take side loading well. I have more than once helped them guys replace axles because of this. If the shaft gets driven in it shatteres the outer edge of the bearing race and the bronken peices cut the oil seal out. Never seen it happen bad enough to cause the bearine to completly fail and have the race come appart and the axle exit but it's not good to have gear oil in your brakes either. The c-clip eliminator kit basicly set the bearings up the same way as the nine inch so not good for off road use.
Don't get me worng. 9 is a good axle for the street and strip but since it doesn't run a tapered bearing or a floating roller bearing it doesn't like them side hits especialy in a heavy trail rig.

I know a guy who has a late-70's Sub; it has a 14bFF in back, and these style external hubs with manual lockouts on a 10-bolt. I don't know if it came from the factory that way or not, but I'm under the impression that the external hubs were used in that time period.

Lloyd, I might be willing to part with the drive flanges, but I dunno about the rest of the stuff since I'm not sure what I want to do yet.

As for the year of the axle, it has the large spindles, so that points to 78 correct? I also checked the u-joint, and it's the large one. I pulled the axle, and everything appeared to be original, but I guess it's really hard to say. The truck it came in did have the 203, and I think a 400 ci. There was an aircleaner present that said 1978.

.............

I just went and looked at the numbers on the ring gear:

4 23 75 DANA 18520A A3D55 45-11

I also found this number under the diff cover BOM # ???

E0120 5

The first few numbers on the ring gear looks an aweful lot like a date 1975 ???

So would the housing be worth anything, since it's 3/4 ton? I have no use for it since the diff is on the "wrong" side....ha ha ha

I have the same axle out of a 75 suburban also. I have cut it down (long side) to put it under my "Project 4Runner". I run these all the time and do many SAS swaps for the local guys using these. Good score for $20.00....around here these axles go for $800-1200 in the local scrap yards....you believe that:eek: :eek:

Originally posted by Shaker
I have the same axle out of a 75 suburban also. I have cut it down (long side) to put it under my "Project 4Runner". I run these all the time and do many SAS swaps for the local guys using these. Good score for $20.00....around here these axles go for $800-1200 in the local scrap yards....you believe that:eek: :eek:

Did you just say $800- $1200 :eek: :eek: :D :eek: :eek:

That sounds outrageous. Is the housing actually beefier? Other than that, the 8 lug stuff just can't increase the value that much.....can it?

Those housings do have extra webbing in the casting, especially around the tubes, and the 1/2" thick tube walls. There's one in a yard in Albuquerque they want $650 for. Another yard down the road from the first has a Chevy D60 for $1800. No one in the state (that I can find) wants to part with any 8-lug stuff apart from a complete axle assembly, so I may have to go with mostly new parts. I really would like the drive flanges since the rig they'd be going into has a 203. Tell me what you want for them, I'll pay shipping, and send you a check or paypal or whatever for the total.

Originally posted by Nobody


Did you just say $800- $1200 :eek: :eek: :D :eek: :eek:

That sounds outrageous. Is the housing actually beefier? Other than that, the 8 lug stuff just can't increase the value that much.....can it?

Housing does have more webbing and it has the 1/2 in axle tubes. I'm telling you these 8 lug axles around here are gold nuggets in the local pick-n-pulls. They will not sell you the "outters" either.....they refuse to "seperate" the axle....:mad3: :(

There's some 8 lug stuff on ebay right now. Looks like a guy is parting out one side. There's currently only one bid on the hub and rotor. I'm curious to see what it goes for. Now you guys have me reconsidering parting this thing out.

Look, it's only $5 :eek:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1815923579&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1017641519&indexURL=0&rd=1

Lloyd, I'm sending you a PM