I need to know if it will matter if I relocate my radiator behind my seat. I quess the question is will a stock toyota water pump have any problem when there is 5ft of extra tube to push water through?

thanks,

Nick

Check the rule book on that too nick. I know it has to be out of harms way and right behind you might be considered harms way so ok it with rich. ie no over head radiators

Cooling Systems
The radiator must be covered so that, in the event of a break in the system, spectators, spotters, drivers and Officials are protected from a coolant spill. Radiators must be securely mounted. Hoses and connections must be in good working condition without cracks. Top mounted (roof mount) radiators are not approved. Radiators must have an overflow bottle connected to the radiator by an overflow tube.

As long as yo meet this it is cool but i would make sure because in my eyes it is a little iffy. About the flow i have now clue:flipoff2: :rolleyes:

if you look at my other post it'l lbe right behind the seat inside the frame.....it'll be out of harms way but I might have to make some kind of shroud to protect form spill

sounds good then well ia am off to bed and you need to head back to the shop and get to bendin or welding or sumptin.

Originally posted by ToyFamily
I need to know if it will matter if I relocate my radiator behind my seat. I quess the question is will a stock toyota water pump have any problem when there is 5ft of extra tube to push water through
Nick
from my experience with the frog's rear mounted radiator, ican tell you two things you should take care of:
a) high flow water pump. the standard wo'nt do for hard wheeling.
b) air traps. you MUST make sure no air is traped in the tubes, otherwise you can kiss your engine goodbye.

sorry, it's passover here and i must go.

will keep in touch later.
frog
the frog (http://www.thefrog.alloffroad.com)

The Toyota mr2 has the engine in the back and the rad in the front, connected by 12 feet of 1 1/2" pipe. There is about 4 gallons of coolant in that system and the water pump doesn't look any different than any other, I don't think it's a high flow. Make sure that you don't get any air trapped in there though.

Tass

it's probably is a high flow pump, although you can't tell by it's outside looks.

the difference is in the number of vanes.

another suggestion = put dual electric fans, one switch operated and the other manually operated, when needed.

the frog:beer:

Originally posted by the frog
it's probably is a high flow pump, although you can't tell by it's outside looks.

the difference is in the number of vanes.

the frog:beer:

I've had the pump off and it looks like any other toyota pump.

Tass

Water moves easy sideways, it's the vertical lifting that causes probs. For less backpressure you should use a pipe or tube, not a gator type flex hose.

yea, watch for air - my engine shot to about 240 REAL QUICK once, other than that the fan never even kicks on (lotsa water flowin and time to cool..)

I used copper to get it from the engine compartment to the back, with flexy hoses at the ends.



http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/TrailReports/Jergins/Jergins_oct01/mvc-018s.jpg

oh yea, put the thermostat for the fan on the engine - not the radiator since it cools as it goes and the engine is hotter..

I was thinking galvanized 1.5 x .065 since I have a 1.5 die....... then radiator hose on the ends....will post pics of the mounting today as I mount it in the buggy

I'd go copper but I am sure that will work too. Whatever is used for hot water in houses etc should work fine here :)

Originally posted by Brandon
yea, watch for air - my engine shot to about 240 REAL QUICK once, other than that the fan never even kicks on (lotsa water flowin and time to cool..)

I used copper to get it from the engine compartment to the back, with flexy hoses at the ends.



http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/TrailReports/Jergins/Jergins_oct01/mvc-018s.jpg


OMG!!!!:eek: :eek: :eek:
Jergens.......shame shame...:flipoff2:

Originally posted by ToyFamily
I was thinking galvanized 1.5 x .065 since I have a 1.5 die....... then radiator hose on the ends....will post pics of the mounting today as I mount it in the buggy

well, if it's a buggy thing, why wo'nt you do what i did with the Frog?!

just use the frame tubes to run the coolant in and save additional tubings & headaches. at the exits of the frame mount flexible pipes onto the radiator. cool :smokin:and elegant........right?

what say you ladies and gentlemen of the jury?

frog

the Frog (http://www.thefrog.alloffroad.com)

Originally posted by the frog


well, if it's a buggy thing, why wo'nt you do what i did with the Frog?!

just use the frame tubes to run the coolant in and save additional tubings & headaches. at the exits of the frame mount flexible pipes onto the radiator. cool :smokin:and elegant........right?

what say you ladies and gentlemen of the jury?

frog

the Frog (http://www.thefrog.alloffroad.com)

sounds to me like you're corroding your frame from the inside out, which is a VERY bad idea in my opinion...

Spotter holding hand, waving frantically, and cursing after steadying himself by grabbing the buggy: "HOT FRAME! HOT FRAME! OH, motherf&*^$ that was a HOT FRAME!!!"

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

well dr. you most certainly are EVIL!!!

not to worry, the tubes through which the coolant is flowing are not accesible by the spotter.

but wait a minute! could that be the reason i had 10 spotters during the last season?:D ::rasta: :D :rasta: :D

seriously, no corosion(no air inside, i hope!) and no problems at all. great idea which works fine.

love and peace

frog:roxy:

Originally posted by Keith



OMG!!!!:eek: :eek: :eek:
Jergens.......shame shame...:flipoff2:

Long Live Jergins!!

That was before the whole planning deal, kinda like my pics of making it up the waterfall without a winch :flipoff2: