Amigo frt axle:Toy or D44?

[Aaronfab]

Ok, I've searched and searched, and my head is beginning to hurt. I'm going to do the SAS thing to my '94 Amigo. Slightly built 2.6, 5 speed, stock transfer, stock rear, w/33" MT's. Going to lengthen a bit and do a four link, front and rear. DD w/some hardcore trail riding about once a month on average. Now the question; Should I go with a front Toy axle or a Dana 44 from a 74-79 waggy/cherokee?

[randii]

You're gonna hear plenty of opinions on this topic.

IMHO, the stock Toyota differential is stronger than that of a stock 44, but the stock 44 axle joint wins over the 44. Modified, you can make the Toyota axle joints beat a modified 44 axle joint if you've got the same grand to spend on each, but if you're gonna spend more than that, you can make the 44 axles and joints rule the roost... with the same differential dependencies first noted. In a round-about way, the key *PAIR* questions is this:
* what's your budget?
* how big a tires are you planning to run, and how hard are you gonna work 'em?
These inter-relate...

Width is another big question, one I'm currently wrestling with... there are some spacer/hub options available to widen a mini-truck housing, or you could use an FJ80 housing. Other than that, you are pretty limited, unless you want to lengthen/shorten a housin or go full custom (Front Range Offroad Fab). The 44 has more options available before you start spacing or customizing...

Semi-random thoughts:
* the Toyota housing is simpler to weld on than the Dana tubes-and-cast setup (handy for your stated suspension plans)
* stock Toyota driveshaft bits are stouter than their stock Dana counterparts

Randii

[Uzi]

X2...for what Randii said you will hear opinions on both sides.

I went with the D44 for width and because it was easier to find (Central Nebraska) but as already mentioned you can make good with either depending on your budget. I picked up my D44 from the local salvage for $200 and itwas 100% complete and then I spent another $100 on new brake pads and rotors. Then another $285 for a new carrier and new gears. Don't know what ratio you want to run but my axle came out of a waggy with 3.07's and I went to 4.56 to match the rear 12 bolt that bought for my project. You may be able to find ratio's to match your current config if you look around here on the board. Its alot about personal perference and budget for your project. If you are going to stay with the stock engine trans, and t-case you might want to look for the axle that will allow the lowest ratio but that will depend on your tire size and the type of wheeling and street driving you will do. I would say that either could ba good choice just depends on what you want to do with you rig and the money you want to spend. my .02 Cents

[paulevans76]

I love the toy axle, and would recommend it for the SAS. If you plan to stay on 33's, you can build it almost bulletproof for very cheap. find a v6 4runner w/ factory 4.56's in the rear and pull the 3rd for a very strong setup that will already match your rear. throw in some upgraded birfs, a locker, and hysteer and call her good.

I was planning on going toyota until I got a great deal on a complete d44, already detriot locked, geared, flat top's, steering, brakes, etc. I will like the extra width over the yota I'm sure, but either eay would have been fine for me.

As far as strength is concerned, it's a wash. you can do superior shafts, ctms, arb/detroit and crane knuckles on the d44, or longfield 30 spline birfs & shafts, arb/detroit and marlin 6-stud knuckles on the yota and they will both be breaking ring & pinions (which can be heat treated and/or cryo'd for more strength). You will be safe to up and over 38" tires in either if you need to get there and have the time and money to do so.

Just use whichever is easier for you to get a hold of, or can get a better deal on. :beer:

[CPOM]

Just use whichever is easier for you to get a hold of, or can get a better deal on. :beer:

This is exactly what made a toyota axle easier for me. My friend hooked me up with one for short money hub to hub. Like Paul said you can get a junkyard toy in a ratio that will match your rear. I went with the 4.30 out of an auto to match my 4.30 isuzu rear. You don't want to lock it up unless you go longfields.

phase 1 of my build
$150 toy axle complete hub to hub
$75 marlin knuckle rebuild kit
$50 wheel bearings
$20 pipe cap diff guard
$70 calipers
$40 cheap vented rotors
$60 spare axle shafts + birfs junkyard
$0 gusset steering stops
$300-400 high steer with common GM tie rod ends
$100 brake lines, ubolts, misc hdwe, etc.
$100 wheel spacers (probably)
<$1000 total

I did not have to buy:
new carrier and new gear setup
new wheels or new hub for pattern (same wheel pattern)
hubs (using the stock aisins)

Later on I'll add a lunchbox locker for ($200-$300) and Longfields ($600) and I'm at stock D60 strength. $1800 grand total for an axle that will last me forever and will retain atleast 60%-70% of that value.

[Lil Uzi]

The Toy with spacers fits under or into the stock Amigo Wheel wells..........kinda. If your going to the trouble of a 4-link, then I dont think a little self clearancing trim is a big deal. Since you said DD, my casual splib is that the wider Waggy D44 may require some action to make it street legal, fender flares, mud flaps, that kinda thing. Depends on your local LEL..........and if you care about flipping gravel onto someone else's windhsield.

[Aaronfab]

Thanks guys for your input. From the research I've done, I've concluded that; both axles are close to correct width(58") and both have 6 x 5 1/2" bolt pattern. I was just looking for what you thought was the stronger axle. The Amigo has stepped up from a no budget project to a low budget project, so it won't be getting any lockers or after market axles shafts. I'm a welder/fabricator for a living, so I'm planning on trussing, welding the spiders, and doing the four link, myself. It sounds like with the D44 I'll be buying a R&P and with the Toy, maybe I could find stock 4:56's to match my rear. What about trail fixing broken shafts? I've seen plenty of Jeeps R&R D30 shafts on the trail and it looks easy. What about the Toy axle?

[paulevans76]

the toyota is 55.5", and with the common 1.5" spacers on each side, you will be at 58.5" (there are also other ways to acheive the extra width). your rear 12 bolt is 58". the wagoneer d44 will be more like 60.5", and yes both have the correct bolt pattern.

FYI, anything you would ever want to know about toyotas is available in the toyota section FAQ.

anyway, for a budget build, they still are about even. I think the d44 is marginally stronger completely stock. those toyota birfields would probably pop before a u-joint in the 44. but you can get aftermarket birfs for as cheap or cheaper than a set of mid-range aftermarket d44 ujoints.

Also, I think the d44 has better brakes.