I've been reading a lot of stuff lately about the toy axle swap. I'm going to start looking for the axles (already got a line on rear), go through them, and then install 'em. From what I've read, and just want a little last minute confirmation, the front will bolt right in WITHOUT having to outboard the springs, right? I know I will have to redo the rear perches, but don't want to mess with the front ones. Thanks for the info. ~Steve

Here's my plan:

Front:
4 cylinder third
5.29 Superior gears
ARB or lock-right
Standard cross-over arm from All-Pro
Beefed up tierod
Custom draglink

Rear:
4 cylinder third
5.29 Superior's
Spool

Opinions? :smokin:

Def the ARB! What tcase??

If you plan on sticking with the zuk case....get the wider rear end, shorten it 3" on the pass side and bolt it in.....The spring width on the front stock from toyota should be about 29.5.......When i set up my front end i used 28.5..But i think that the closest you can go up front is about 29.5 on the Toy's.

I will be sticking with my 4.16 case for a while, but probably go to a 6:1 later. I'm not too worried about the compound angle, though, as I already have a toyota CV in the rear anyway.

So, toy axles are 29.5" from center of spring pad to center of spring pad, and sammy axles are 28.5" from center to center, correct? :confused: If so, does that 1/2" on either side matter? I just swapped in YJ's with the TT kit, so don't want to mess with outboarding the springs if I don't have to. Thanks. ~Steve

Just FYI: for the $249 you'd spend on the All-Pro low crossover arm, you can get high steer arms from Rockstomper, and save $49! :D

Just something to consider, low steer is no longer cheeper than high steer.

Originally posted by squirrelman83
I will be sticking with my 4.16 case for a while, but probably go to a 6:1 later. I'm not too worried about the compound angle, though, as I already have a toyota CV in the rear anyway.

So, toy axles are 29.5" from center of spring pad to center of spring pad, and sammy axles are 28.5" from center to center, correct? :confused: If so, does that 1/2" on either side matter? I just swapped in YJ's with the TT kit, so don't want to mess with outboarding the springs if I don't have to. Thanks. ~Steve

Toy axles are 29" c to c.

you should get my offset toy rear end off ebay :D

i was looking at that shit. what does it have for gears, locker??

Im not sure what stock zuk is....But i think it is pretty close to 28-28.5.....I just know i have mine set up at 28.5...

it has no gears or locker. (those are for me) :D just add a stock 4.10 welded 3rd for like $30.

Couple of small details:

Toy front ends are set up to be used with shackle-reverse.
If you still have your shackles up front, you may encounter a little Death Wobble now & then. :D

also: If you have 2 rear brake lines (1988.5 and earlier) you'll have to re-plumb to accomodate - no biggie.




don't forget you'll need 6-lug wheels :rasta:

Hey oilburner or whoever, what is the easiest way to "replumb" to fix the brake line prob? I am encountering this prob right now. THe rear toy axle has a t-block fitting for one line. All pro and spidertrax told me to go to a hydraulic or brake shop and find a t-block that will accept two brake lines. HOw else can you do it?

Originally posted by 0ILBURNER
Couple of small details:

Toy front ends are set up to be used with shackle-reverse.
If you still have your shackles up front, you may encounter a little Death Wobble now & then. :D

also: If you have 2 rear brake lines (1988.5 and earlier) you'll have to re-plumb to accomodate - no biggie.




don't forget you'll need 6-lug wheels :rasta:

I flat-tow it right now, and will be getting a trailer this summer, so "death wobble" isn't too big of an issue. Besides, my alignment is already way off. :D

Mine is an '88.5, so it already has a single rear brakeline. Should hook right up. :)

And as far as tires/wheels go, I'm probably going to run some black steels for now. Oh yeah, and some 35" MT/R's. :D Thanks for all the info, guys, keep it coming! ~Steve

Black steel toy 6 lug wheels are waayyy cheeper than the custom 2" BS wheels, which is nice! :D A lot easier to find used, too!!

squirrelman83 I have Toyota axle up front with the trail Tough YJ kit. Just drill the hole in 3/8". Works great for me and no death wobble.

Mike

i just took off the tblock and ran the brakes just like on a stock sammy axle... they stopped way better with 38's than my zuk axles with 33's :D your other option is to just ad a second tblock to reduce from 2 lines to 1 then run it to the toyota tblock on the axle. think you have to reconfigure your brakes for it to work right though.

Originally posted by 0ILBURNER
Couple of small details:

Toy front ends are set up to be used with shackle-reverse.
If you still have your shackles up front, you may encounter a little Death Wobble now & then. :D
:rasta:

Being set up for the shackle reversal only means that the castor angle is not right for having the shackle at the front.

To get around this, I just milled up an angled shim which I bolted into the spring pack to correct the angle. Its a really easy fix.

BTW, the incorrect castor angle makes steering much easier which can delay the need for power steering.

After I put the TT kit on The caster angle was just right with stock toyota pads.

Mike

Originally posted by mas2
squirrelman83 I have Toyota axle up front with the trail Tough YJ kit. Just drill the hole in 3/8". Works great for me and no death wobble.

Mike

Kinda confused, but very happy that someone runs this set-up. What do you mean by "drill the hole in 3/8"? Are you talking about redrilling the spring pads on the toy axle towards the center (or diff)? Probably makes perfect since to everyone else, just kinda confused (too many :beer:'s ). Thanks for the info. Got any pictures? ~Steve

You can just drill the toyota pad about 3/8 of an inch in to the center of the diff. This is what I first did, now I welded on some 1/4 flat steel on and then I redrilled it. There is not much to it. It is too much work to move your springs out with the TT kit.

Mike

Yeah, that's what I thought you meant. And I don't want to outboard the springs with the TT kit. You're right, that would be a major PITA! Thanks again for the input. ~Steve

Reading on can you follow my thining?

I am thinking of doing Toy axles sometime in the future...
Toy axles are shacke reverse, well rear shackle anyways.
I am doing YJ swap real soon... so...

Should I just get the CSC Shackle reversal.. then i'd be setup more like the stock toy setup? Whould this be a 'preferred' setup for the toyota axle for pinion & caster angles or does it really matter? I was leaning towards a S/R anyway.

Hey oilburner or whoever, what is the easiest way to "replumb" to fix the brake line prob?

Bend a short 90 deg towards the front of the rig in the toy hard lines at the end where they would have go into the block. Weld a little tab with two holes for them to pass thru on the axle housing. Run the sami lines to the hardlines. The tab will let you put line clips on at the housing to keep em from flopping around.

One other thing, if you havent already, go to AZ's site and check out his toy swap info, it has everything you need to know about the swap right there.

I wil be having a parts toy soon(maybe). going to look at a buddie toy he has out east. It was hit hard in the nose but the axles were still good. All I want is the cab off the thing so if the trucks axles are good I will make you a screamin deal on them.

Jeff

Originally posted by camo kid
I wil be having a parts toy soon(maybe). going to look at a buddie toy he has out east. It was hit hard in the nose but the axles were still good. All I want is the cab off the thing so if the trucks axles are good I will make you a screamin deal on them.

Jeff

Shiat, I already committed to a guy up in Denver. :mad: Thanks for the offer, though. If it falls through with this other guy, I'll let ya know. ~Steve

thanks for the brake info. I just received my brake lines from all pro and I only ordered one rear, which threads into the t-block, so I would like to keep the t-block if I can. Is there a way to make it so there is only one rear brake line going to the rear?

Since you already bought the Toy line, i would find another t, and join the two lines into one. run that one line to the hose that goes to the T on your axle. Kind of 1/2 ASS, but it should work.

i think you have to configure your brakes up at that little router box to make them work with the second tblock like that. i remember reading about it somewhere but it's been a while.

I'm surprised nobody mentioned the older LC rear axle with the dif in the correct place. It is the same width as the '83 truck axle, and you don't have to cut a thing. They are available cheap 'cause all those guys go Big Dana. It's stronger than the truck axle too, isn't it? And I heard it's a real easy conversion to run MR2 disk brakes. Is this good info?

The problem with the LC axle is the weight. I don't have the exact numbers on me, but I'm sure that the Pickup axles are quite a bit lighter.

cruiser axles have a 9.25" ring gear... arn't they narrower than the mini truck axles? like 53-54" or something? i like the mini truck axles. i almost bought a set of the cruiser axles though.

If the time comes and you need to offload those axles let me know.

My Zuk starts to get Death Wobble when I hit about 100mph. I think it's the Boggers though...:confused:

i got mine up to 90 a few times with the boggers... scary as hell!! but it was going way downhill... wayyyyyyy downhill. :D

at 80 im redlined.....

90 isn't fun in a zuk. The whole damn thing sounds like its' gonna fall apart and the wind noise is louder than the engine.

The problem with the LC axle is the weight. I don't have the exact numbers on me, but I'm sure that the Pickup axles are quite a bit lighter.
1977 FJ40
Front axle weighs 270 pounds (wet) with tie rod, drag link and steering stabilizer, minus hubs and brake calipers.
Rear axle weighs 220 pounds (wet) complete.
(source: here) (http://root.moose.ca/~zukinugen/axles.html)

Front Dana 44 weighs ~300lbs
Rear Dana 44 weighs ~250 lbs
(Source: Dynatrac)

Samurai Front Diff hub to hub w/calipers, drag link, and tierod (wet) 179lbs
Samurai Rear Diff drum to drum with brake lines and E-brake cable (wet) 134lbs

Anyone have the miniTruck axle weights??????

cruiser axles have a 9.25" ring gear... arn't they narrower than the mini truck axles? like 53-54" or something? i like the mini truck axles. i almost bought a set of the cruiser axles though.
Front axle ~55.75 inches wide wheel flange to flange
Rear axle ~55 inches wide wheel flange to flange

FJ60/2
Front ~ 58.5 w-w
Rear ~ 58" w-w
Weight?? Still not as heavy as a D44.

I've hit 100 a couple times...:eek: