since the last UROC when andy wrinkled his tierod, I've had this fear of bending mine, not anymore ;)
http://www.jeepinjunkie.com/tierod.jpg
http://www.jeepinjunkie.com/tierod2.jpg

its 1.5" diameter, 5/16" wall, and used the same chevy ends the one I have now does, that 7/8 18 bastard thread.

mmmmmmm beefy :D

Let me see if I have this right:

1.5 od with 5/16ths wall (.3125)
7/8= .875
so 1.5 - 2(.3125) =.875

Shouldn't you have more material to bite into?

in the new peterson 4 wheel mag there is an article about aluminum tie rods and draglings say is has 4" of flex with no harm:eek: and the hardware is aerospace grade 9:D

Originally posted by ironpig70
in the new peterson 4 wheel mag there is an article about aluminum tie rods and draglings say is has 4" of flex with no harm:eek: and the hardware is aerospace grade 9:D

I think that is death wobble waiting to happen...

Originally posted by Scout Dude
Let me see if I have this right:

1.5 od with 5/16ths wall (.3125)
7/8= .875
so 1.5 - 2(.3125) =.875

Shouldn't you have more material to bite into?
ok, so I didn't get out the calipers, I used a 25' tape, but by your calculations, it probably has a thicker wall than 5/16" cause they had to drill it and tap it, and I can see where the drill stopped inside the tube.

I just ran 1" bar stock with 5/8's heims. Not a problem since then...

I don't wanna pee in anyone's cornflakes, but, depending on where you have the tie rod mounted, making the rod much stronger than the joints like this can be a REALLY BAD idea, especially where you drill and tap the tube without a radius that leaves a huge concentration of stress where the threads enter the tube.

I know what I'm talking about from experience here:

http://billavista.tripod.com/Steering/SteeringV3/SteeringV3.html

I don't think it is going to be much of a problem for me...

Do you know what size ID you need for a 7/8" TRE? I was thinking of getting some 1.25 .25 wall and running a tap through it.

Originally posted by BillaVista
I don't wanna pee in anyone's cornflakes, but, depending on where you have the tie rod mounted, making the rod much stronger than the joints like this can be a REALLY BAD idea, especially where you drill and tap the tube without a radius that leaves a huge concentration of stress where the threads enter the tube.

I know what I'm talking about from experience here:

http://billavista.tripod.com/Steering/SteeringV3/SteeringV3.html I see what your saying, you were also using 3/4" rod ends, this one uses 7/8" and it is also the "spare" for when the other one bends.

Originally posted by Scout Dude
Do you know what size ID you need for a 7/8" TRE? I was thinking of getting some 1.25 .25 wall and running a tap through it. I don't, but if you can find a drill size tap size chart, you can go off the drill size for a 7/8 tap.

7/8-18 tap goes right in 1.25 .219 wall tubibg, no drilling. Just got done with one end of my tierod. For what it is worth, anybody needing a left hand thread 7/8-18 tap contact e-taps.com. Someone on the board sussested them. They are in Poland, they are $59.50 without shipping.