Looking to go lower. I was really happy with Gumbo 35's and 4.10's. Since the swap to MT/R 37's, I feel a little under geared...

Running 37's with 4.10's, 345, 727, D20. What would you do, for the been there done that crowd.

1) Re-gear to 4.88's. (cheapest, better than now, maybe the simplest/easiest.)

2) Swap to a jeep 727 rear and run a jeep D300 with the stock 4.10's. (new shafts and associated swap costs.)

3) Swap to a jeep 727 rear and run a dodge 203 to jeep D300. (lotsa more cost.....but super gearing options)

4) Swap to a jeep 727 rear and run the 4speed atlas when it comes out. (lotsa money....maybe better than #3 and #2.)

Hash it out......I can't decide. Looks like I am stuck on the 727 jeep tailshaft idea.

Thanks,


EDIT::::::UPDATE

I regeared to 4.88's with a detroit in the rear. Should have went 5.13's. Its lower, but could be more-so.

if you looking for more power, since you said that since you put the 37's on you feel a little under geared, then just go with the gear swap. i have 35's w/4.88's and i love the gearing. but it also sounds like you talking about getting low low gears for crawling... not just more get up and go to power the 37's around... if it were me i would skip the atlas and get a klune v w/ a chev np 205 it actually cost me less doing that then it would have buying the atlas, and i have more gear selections, 1:1, 2:1, 4:1 and 8:1, plus i twin sticked the 205 so i have those options as well. i swapped to the jeep tail housing to the klune... the jeep 300 isnt going to be that much lower from 2.03 to 2.62. you best bet is to go with the gears if you just want more tourqe to push the 37's around, but if you want more crawling gears, then go with a doubler (watch out for drivelines) or a 4:1 kit in a 300. or if your willing to buy an atlas, go with a klune v instead and build up a bulletproof np 205

my 2 cents

Were is get a scout D300???

I'd say 4.88's, heep 727 and a Stak 3 speed box with the overdrive gear.

my vote


1) Re-gear to 4.88's. (cheapest, better than now, maybe the simplest/easiest.)

2) Swap to a jeep 727 rear and run a jeep D300 with the stock 4.10's. (new shafts and associated swap costs.)

X2 on the 4.88's

Definately 4:88's for the increased tire diameter. However, I'm on the fence with the driveline. I "planned" and have the J**p tailshaft conversion along with a J**p Dana 300. Pros - Keep IH engine, trans, passenger side drop TC, 4 to 1 gearing, many other TC upgrades, and the same driveline lenghts. Cons - I can't keep the tranny locked going down hill, (sucked when I crushed my rear brakeline on the last run), and no OD. I may be planning a drivetrain swap soon, but if I hold off, I'd settle for the 4 to 1's in the 300. :smokin:

Wait for the atlas 4 speed:D

Wait for the atlas 4 speed:D

$2700.00 delivered to your front door. I can do the same exact gearing with new driveshafts for half the money. :smokin:

5.38's, spicer 18 T-case, Warn OD. :grinpimp:

I'd go 203/D300....

High end remains the same for street (unless that was an issue for you before)...

Tcase options: 1:1, 2:1, 2.62:1 5.24:1

4.88's to get a better gear/tire ratio AND the Jeep output and D300. Then you can add the other options (doubler, Stak, Atlas whatever) later. But I'd definatly gear out of the highway gears.

Go with the 4.88's no matter what - your going to want them for driving around regardless of what you do for overall gear reduction in the future...

Tera Low anyone??

4:88s and a Scout D300. I searched both Anything Scout's and Binderbulletin's classifieds and found a couple of Scout D300s for under $450. Can always drop a 4:1 Terra Low kit into it for crawling. The automatic bull gears are out there too. Could leave your 727 alone. I'm running this same set-up, except I've got 33's and a 258, the 4:88s are too low for the street with the 33's, but offroad it wants to crawl through the brakes.

I'd say 4.88's, heep 727 and a STaK (http://www.stak4x4.com/) 3 speed box with the overdrive gear.

I like this option 5.44 in low1 and 3.05 in low 2.

The 2 speed boxes were on sale last month for $2399. Sounds like a lot, but once you upgrade your Atlas to 32 spline outputs it's a better deal. Or the D300 with a 4to1 and 32 spline your getting mighty close on price, plus all the work. You could even keep you 4.11 gears for highway use.

Next to swapping to the 4.88s, I think a doubler would be cheapest...

I haven't priced a 727/203 so I don't know, but lets guess:

D300- $300
Doubler $600
Bearings,seals, etc $200
727/203L $400?

Your at $1500.

With a Stak or Atlas, your still looking at another $700-$1500 at least.

I'm with Mike. Since you already run the juice box, I'd suggest option#3.

Swap on a Jeep 727 tail housing/shaft. Add a Ford round-6 pattern NP203 (with a swapped in 23 spline Dodge input), use a Northwest Fab doubler to a Jeep D300. That'll give you 1/1, 2/1, 2.62/1, 5.24/1. :D

If you REALY wanna go crazy low you can add LoMax gears to the Jeep D300. Then you'd have 1/1, 2/1, 4/1, 8/1. :flipoff2:

I wonder if any of the Dodge NP203s had the now common Jeep D300/NP/NVG/BW round-6 pattern. The only Dodge NP203s I've seen have had the same 'race track' case as a TH350 application GM NP203, but with a 23 instead of 27 spline input.

So I have a dodge 203 range box on the back of a manual dodge tranny to donate the 203. This should bolt to a converted to jeep 727 tailshaft...right?

Maybe the 4.88's and a Scout 300.....Hard to decide....

Thanks to all who replied.

There's a 727 with a 203 sittin' on a shelf at a local yard. The yardman wants $200 fer it, but I didn't haggle with him about it, yet. You could use a Northwest Fab rear adapter and throw on a J**p Dana 300. The whole package would be around $1000. Add the trans rebuild, LoMax 4 to 1, driveshafts, 32 spline tailshaft, twin sticks, crossmember, etc., you'd be running upwards of $2500 easy. :smokin:

http://www.northwestfab.com/203-205adaptor.html

Thanks for the link to Northwest fab.