i am planning a budget for a project to get started as soon as february. Im going to build a 78->83 chevy pickup. the bigger the better. i want a rusty busted truck.

does anybody knows about junk parts that can come cheap to me so i can make this crawler/bogger rig handle properly and have a nice articulated susp.


i want this upgrades:

at least 6 inch lift

fitting 35s or bigger down there

cheap good tires

cheap rims

cheap gear to upgrade

a locker new or used

i sure want a heavy duty winch why not in this strict budget

any tricks on how to upgrade the steering the cheapest way???

i think i can handle the cheap engine upgrades but if you know something special please post it.

ive been thinking on bigger springs as lift upgrades or body spacers but i do want to know what the good stuff is.

help me my wife is tracking the bank account better than a fbi agent


PS I DONT WANT A JUNK TRUCK SUCKAA I WANT A JUNK SUPERSTAR :grinpimp:


this is it guys time to post those tricky parts list:D

PLease leave and shoot yourself in the face

Hola Amigo! First choice... US GOVT auction in Puero Rico look for an CUCV 1 ton truck comes with cool OD green paint and 14 bolt rear w/ detroit locker, D60 front, TH400, NP208, ...the 6.2l diesel is nothing to write home about, but the truck is stout!
Like the one 4 Wheel & Offroad did a while back
Part 1:
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/brandpages/chevy/131_0403_cukv/index1.html
Part 2:
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/brandpages/chevy/131_0404_cucv/
Part 3:
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/brandpages/chevy/131_0405_cucv/

I don't see any listed for PR right now, but I bet you can can find one.

http://www.govliquidation.com/index.html
Fort Buchanan
DRMO USNS Roosevelt Roads
Cieba, PR 00735
4803671300
http://www.govliquidation.com/locationmaps/PR3.pdf

PLease leave and shoot yourself in the face
Why do you have to be a dick? I thought this section was supposed to help out us newbs. not all of us have unlimited budgets to build trophy trucks so why not help the guy out since you are so awesome?

Bro, you need to visit a lot of junkyards and you will find a lot of what you are looking for. For the diffs, i would weld the spider gears and run twin sticks.it would probably be your cheapest locker option

It would be cheaper to use a smaller lighter rig. To make a full size chebby tough you need a front D60. Front 10bolts and D44s just don't cut it on something that heavy and big.

i am planning a budget for a project to get started as soon as february. Im going to build a 78->83 chevy pickup. the bigger the better. i want a rusty busted truck.

does anybody knows about junk parts that can come cheap to me so i can make this crawler/bogger rig handle properly and have a nice articulated susp.


Crawler/Bogger do not typically lend themselves to one vehicle....you will have to compromise.

i want this upgrades:

at least 6 inch lift.

Why do you need a 6" lift? You realize you will be drastically altering the center of gravity of this rig by doing this? This would be great for a mud bogger but bad for a crawler.


fitting 35s or bigger down there.

You said you wanted a rusty pickup...well then, cut your fenders. This will assist you in keeping the COG low and provide a cheap and easy way to fit the tires and give you more ground clearance.


cheap good tires.
You're in PR....I don't know of the tire situation down there. Check surplus tire shops....used tires....

cheap rims.

The ones that come with your rig will probably be the cheapest you'll find.


a locker new or used.

You might find a truck with a Gov-Loc or like it was said a MIL CUCV with a Detroit....The CUCV would be a wise choice...14B, D60kp, NP208 2.67 low, TH400 trans, and maybe low miles...


i sure want a heavy duty winch why not in this strict budget.

For cheap....a double line puller and a Hi-lift are about it...but your fullsize is going to be heavy. So, look for a good used one...with a CUCV you should already have dual batt's.

any tricks on how to upgrade the steering the cheapest way???.

Why ugrade? IF it works, leave it alone. You might plumb a steering cooler in the low pressure return line. Also, check the frame rail where the steering box mounts. These year Chevy's are notorious for cracking the frame in this area.


ive been thinking on bigger springs as lift upgrades or body spacers but i do want to know what the good stuff is.

Don't worry about new, bigger springs....a reciprocating saw will take care of all that, leave the body lift on the shelf.

you asking for trouble if you use cheap parts. if you want anything half decent your going to pay for it. if you want cheap tires they wont last long at all. 6" lift is noty gunna be cheap no matter where you go unless you do it :rainbow: with blocks.

get the truck in running/driveable condition and work on it slowly if you dont have cash to drop into it right away

My formula for fun on the cheap : http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4680589&postcount=37

Why do you have to be a dick? I thought this section was supposed to help out us newbs.

Bro, you need to visit a lot of junkyards and you will find a lot of what you are looking for. For the diffs, i would weld the spider gears and run twin sticks.it would probably be your cheapest locker option
That's the way this site works. We're not family friendly, and we're not dumb-ass friendly.
not all of us have unlimited budgets to build trophy trucks so why not help the guy out since you are so awesome?
Thanks for noticing my awesomeness, now notice my $1500 budget beater.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout80011.jpg

THANKS TO ALL OF YOU.

what ive heard might be a wakeup call on what im getting myself into. As i was reviewing my budget i came with a way to separate 1400 for the truck(including the truck) it may be way short for what im planning for but hey thats the challenge.

i was looking around an i saw a 4 inch lift kit for 300 (rough country). that may be an option. the thing is that crap comes with rear blocks. i was thinking a set of used springs for the back its the way to.

Dumb question: IS welding the spider gears strong enough?

i guess the truck is going to be full time locked.


ok i read that a 1 inch body lift wont hurt anything. any other opinions??

i can do body work so cutting and fixing the fenders is not a problem. again i was thinking of a two or three inches cut.

So my bogger wont be a good option for crawling....... anything that can help the two blend a little better?

i know my truck is going to be more time fighting the mud than stepping on the rock so i just want something ok to start learning on the rocks.


i saw a set of gears for 250. can i swap other gear into my truck?
what may be the best gear configuration for my bogger/semi-crawler???


again thx for taking some of your time to help me.

ill take everything on consideration.

i'd recommend a fsj like a j10, j20, wagoneer, or cherokee chief. they can be found for 500 or less. and mildly built for less than 2000usd

this is mine after a grill change

this is it after a 4" lift

total invested:$1880.00
now
1200.00--truck
150.00--grill(just my preference, not necessary)
360.00---lift

soon
120.00-- used 35" tires
50.00---used locker

by the way it runs great and still passes strict california smog :D

That's the way this site works. We're not family friendly, and we're not dumb-ass friendly.

Thanks for noticing my awesomeness, now notice my $1500 budget beater.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout80011.jpg
I dig the sliders!!!!!!1:D

If you want a good budget build, just keep watching the forums for parts going cheap. At the rate I'm going, I'll have my truck built for around $2500. That's with a new engine/trans/tcase/axles/springs/etc. Only thing coming from the truck I'm using is going to be the frame and the body.

:rolleyes: Did any of you guys happen to notice he's in PUERTO RICO and said he wants to build a Chevy?:rolleyes: I'd bet his parts availabilty and shipping costs make his budget build a little tougher.

buy a toyota....

id think of something better to build. get something smaller. smaller is always cheaper and it will do everything that you want your fullsize to do, if not more. you can deffanatly get a rustbucket yota. bought my comanche for 800. it had 3 in lift and 30s. and new 33s came with it. 120k miles. i have an 8.8 that im putting in the rear and im getting a d44 for the front. im having good luck with getting axles. ill be spending money on gearing the 8.8 and the 44. so far thats the only thing im spending money on. figure 400/axle on gearing so i should have a good wheeler for 1600. plus some little things i might spend money on.

:rolleyes: Did any of you guys happen to notice he's in PUERTO RICO and said he wants to build a Chevy?:rolleyes: I'd bet his parts availabilty and shipping costs make his budget build a little tougher.

AS I SAID BEFORE: NOT AT ALL!!!!:flipoff2:

THE ONLY THING THAT IS GOING TO BE COSTLY IS THE LIFT KIT AND THE TIRES IF I BUY NEW TIRES FROM ANY SITE. I HOPE I FIND OFFER WITH FREE SHIPPING OR MAYBE I CAN BUY DIRECTLY FROM MANUFACTURER OR DISTRIBITORS.

THERES A LOT OF THOSE CHEVS PICKUPS AROUND.......PLENTY TO CHOOSE FROM IN THE JUNKYARDS AND MANY MORE LAYING AROUND ON PEOPLES YARDS. DODGE IS NOT AS EASY. LATELY I HAVE BEEN LOOKING EVERYWHERE FOR THE PROJECT IDEA AND EVEN WHEN I DO LIKE THE DODGE TRUCKS IT IS GOING TO BE A PAIN IN THE A$$ TO BUILD CHEAP.

IM LOOKING FOR A CHEV FROM $300 TO 500. ILL HAVE SOMETHING LEFT FOR TIRES LIFT AN GEARS.


JEEP TRUCKS ARE UGLY AS HELL. I DONT LIKE THOSE AT ALL.

AND TOYO IS THE CIVIC OF THE OFFROADERS. I STAY OUT OF THE GROUP.

IM NOT THAT MUCH INTO CRAWLING AS I AM INTO BOGGIN SO A BIG RIG IS WHAT IM LOOKING FOR.

I dig the sliders!!!!!!1:D
Thanks. They are tied to the frame and the cage.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout80005.jpg

Thanks. They are tied to the frame and the cage.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout80005.jpg

nice bodywork .... you should be working with FOOSE

nice tires too....

hey that way i can beat a 600$ budget buildup

truck plus tubing = $1500 well done dude :rolleyes: :laughing:

nice bodywork .... you should be working with FOOSE

nice tires too....

hey that way i can beat a 600$ budget buildup

truck plus tubing = $1500 well done dude :rolleyes: :laughing:
Do I have to break it down for ya?

$350 purchase price
$350 tube
$4xx for gears and install kits
$150 rear axle
fuel cell, seats, harnesses, etc, so yeah, right around $1500.

Some stuff I already had, like the power steering stuff, springs, some things I traded labor for, like the front axle.

The rust was free.:flipoff2:

i still think you should be upgrading those tires. :( those look as bad as a 26 bike tires. just to let you know where to do the next upgrade.

rubber rubber rubber :D


dont forget the bodywork

i would buy a bicycle and some mud tires then i can save a bunch on car insurance

I dig the sliders!!!!!!1:D
I dig the parking brake!!:D

Take another look at the tires in each picture. Tires are on the list, but for now, I'll use the crappy tires I have.


Ryden, :flipoff2: