Who here has a parts washer??

How big is it?

How much was it?


I am in the market for one of these so I don't make such a mess in the barn...

Originally posted by Toyota_Jim
Who here has a parts washer??

How big is it?

How much was it?


I am in the market for one of these so I don't make such a mess in the barn...

Harbor frieght, for the budget minded redneck:flipoff2:

I sell them. The HF one will work just fine but get the drum mounted one, so you can run a filter. Solvent never wares out , it just gets dirty. A simple filter housing can extend your solvents life by 80%

Originally posted by Old Scout
I sell them. The HF one will work just fine but get the drum mounted one, so you can run a filter. Solvent never wares out it just gets dirty. A simple filter housing can extend your solvents life by 80%

No shit, thats good to know, thanks.

What kind of solvent is used? I just pour paint thinner in the one at work... course it isn't mine and thats what I was told to use.

could you make one out of a simple water pump, have a 50 gallon drum, a screen, a filter, and a flexable, rigid hose?

Originally posted by Old Scout
I sell them. The HF one will work just fine but get the drum mounted one, so you can run a filter. Solvent never wares out it just gets dirty. A simple filter housing can extend your solvents life by 80%
I got the cheap one from HF w/out the drum but the "heavy duty" pump. I can see the benefits of the drum, I just didn't want to spend the extra cash on it for a shadetree mechanic like me. It's one of the best garage items I own next to the welder. I just filled it with nuts and bolts this morning and when I get home, just a little rinse and whalla clean parts.

Originally posted by Old Scout
I sell them. The HF one will work just fine but get the drum mounted one, so you can run a filter. Solvent never wares out it just gets dirty. A simple filter housing can extend your solvents life by 80%

What kind of good solvent can we get in Cali. now, I heard they will only sell water based:confused: :confused:

I was thinking about throwing 10 gallons of McKay's in there, but figured it would stink up the garage something fierce :barf:

Originally posted by Bones

I got the cheap one from HF w/out the drum but the "heavy duty" pump. I can see the benefits of the drum,

The problem with the one that has the pump in the corner is there is no sump to let the dirt/grease/gaskets/ect to fall out of solution. With a drum mounted one ,you just line the drum with a trash bag and when thing get bad just pump the solvent into a bucket change bags and re-fill the new bag.

I use a cheap Northern Hydraulics 20 gallon. I've used a bunch of differenct water based solvents, but they don't last. Now I just fill it with kerosene, which works great and the parts don't flash rust when they come out.

When I change the kerosene, I just use it a little at a time for firestarter.

Originally posted by Mustard Dog


What kind of good solvent can we get in Cali. now, I heard they will only sell water based:confused: :confused:

I was thinking about throwing 10 gallons of McKay's in there, but figured it would stink up the garage something fierce :barf:

If your in So cal or the Bay Area your screwed! Your air resources board killed all the good stuff. I've never heard of Mc Kays, but the chemical co I work for is in Compton and I can get you the real stuff if you want it.

Originally posted by fcfred
could you make one out of a simple water pump, have a 50 gallon drum, a screen, a filter, and a flexable, rigid hose?

Don't use a water pump! The seals in a water pump will become brittle and leak solvent in to the electrical part of the pump. It can be a nice shocker when your solvent is charged with 110V!

Originally posted by Toyota_Jim
What kind of solvent is used? I just pour paint thinner in the one at work... course it isn't mine and thats what I was told to use.

The Flash point is too low so the P.T. will go bye bye very quickly. Call a local pertoulium distributor and ask for 170F stoddard solvent. You can get it thur a company like ZEP as well, but there a real PITA to deal with.

Originally posted by Old Scout


If your in So cal or the Bay Area your screwed! Your air resources board killed all the good stuff. I've never heard of Mc Kays, but the chemical co I work for is in Compton and I can get you the real stuff if you want it.

If you can get me some that would be great. I'm just over in San Pedro and work downtown, so I'm pretty close;)

Shoot me a PM with contact info:)

If you can catch the Chuck Homier traveling tool sale, (I think they are on the web too) thier prices are a little better than even the HF sale price.

oh yeah, www.homier.com, they come through here about every 6 months. same stuff as harborfreight at bargain prices ...

- jack

They only have the BASIN TYPE (http://www.homier.com/itemdetail.asp?i=03021&ss=part washer&sm=ct&sf=ALL&browse=no)

HF puts THIS ONE (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42817) on sale for 129.00 all the time. It's a far better unit than a basin style.

My buddy has a good old fashioned slop sink with a half of a plastic 55 gal drum under it. Drum's filled with kerosene and his plain ol' fountian pump is connected to a sink sprayer.
He's had this set up for over 10 years and hasn't had a problem with it yet.
BTW when his kerosene gets filthy he get rid of it by putting it in his gravity feed fuel oil furnace that he has in the garage.

Originally posted by Old Scout
Don't use a water pump! The seals in a water pump will become brittle and leak solvent in to the electrical part of the pump. It can be a nice shocker when your solvent is charged with 110V!

This shouldn't be a problem unless you're using a water based solvent.
Non water based solvents have no electrical value so they can't carry current.

Originally posted by ForestCam

This shouldn't be a problem unless you're using a water based solvent.
Non water based solvents have no electrical value so they can't carry current.

SHOW ME! Many/most solvents have a Dielectric Strength that will carry power. Let me see an MSDS with this value you are talking about! Most solvents that will not carry power have a very high VOC rating and can't be used any more or are 25.00-35.00/ gallon!

would deisel work?

Deisel is damn near the same shit as kerosene.

I tired the thing, mineral spirits carries electrical current all right, stuck and extention cord in a bucket of it. Shocked the hell out of me then flipped the breaker.

Originally posted by Toyota_Jim
Deisel is damn near the same shit as kerosene.

I tired the thing, mineral spirits carries electrical current all right, stuck and extention cord in a bucket of it. Shocked the hell out of me then flipped the breaker.

You are kidding right?

first i have a drum style cleaner at work and it is small

the harbor freight one is 42-1/4"L x 19-1/2"W x 10-1/2" deep pump recurcilates up to 2 gallons a minute lid closes at 155 degrees in case of fire has steel stand w/ shelf
item # 36105-3ava price $169.99

thought i'd use this and run a hose from the cleaner barrel to the washer.

Originally posted by oldjeep


You are kidding right?

Nope!

well I'm glad this came up. my neighbor has the HF POS. he got the water based cleaner that you are sapposed to use. I guess it just sucked!!
I am a printer and have a REAL parts washer at work.orange/red can....Cant think of the name right now.,..they are VERY OSHA cautious. There shit RIPS the grease, ink, goo, anything off the parts. WILL eat plastic!! has anyone put real parts washer fluid in the HF bin? I would guess that it would eat the pump right to hell. I would like to use the washer, even got offered one for x-mas. I said no cuz the fluid sucks!! HELP!! I need a washer..

Originally posted by Skyetone
well I'm glad this came up. my neighbor has the HF POS. he got the water based cleaner that you are sapposed to use. I guess it just sucked!!
I am a printer and have a REAL parts washer at work.orange/red can....Cant think of the name right now.,..they are VERY OSHA cautious. There shit RIPS the grease, ink, goo, anything off the parts. WILL eat plastic!! has anyone put real parts washer fluid in the HF bin? I would guess that it would eat the pump right to hell. I would like to use the washer, even got offered one for x-mas. I said no cuz the fluid sucks!! HELP!! I need a washer..

Parts washing 101
There are two different kind of small part hand washing.

Aqueous & Solvent

Aqueous is the green method and was brought on because of the VOC* loading in high air pollution area's. AQUEOUS or in laymen's terms is cleaning with a water based degreaser. The most common type of AQUEOUS degreaser is one that contains BUTYL CELLOSOLVE (Butyl Glycol, Butyl Oxytol) . "Butyl" is the main ingredient in spray degreasers like 409 and Fanstisck that most of us use in the kitchen. BTW Simple Green is Butyl as well. A solution of aqueous degreaser is about 30-50% degreaser and the rest water, about 200% more butyl than 409,ect. I can't stand using them and most users feel the same way. The solution can be come contaminated with bacteria and cause all sorts of skin problems for the users. There are some high dollar units that will bring the solution up to 180F during the late night killing the bacteria, but there far too expensive for a home shop.

Solvent

Most of the solvent used was 100F Stoddard solvent.Then the greenies came to town. What happened is the local air recourses boards made the chemical companies start selling only solvent with a higher flash points. The higher the flash point, the slower the solvent will evaporate. The lower vaporization rate lowered the VOC level in the solvent. (VOC= volatile organic compound) VOC's are the cause of smog you can see. Just think of L.A. in mid June, when the sky is thick! The A.R.B. kept making us bring the flash point higher and the VOC's lower and lower. In many parts of California solvent use has been banned! The current solvent I can sell in only about 45% of California has a flash point of 170F. parts dry kind of slowly, but you loose very little solvent to evaporation.

The 170F solvent works 300% better than aqueous IMO. Be ready many states just copy California's laws after we work out the bugs.

where can I get just a pump?

my current method is a drum of Kero and a wire brush

What is the best solvent I can find cheap and local. How about gasoline? Paint stripper?

I could care less about the greenies

Ron

Originally posted by ForestCam
Non water based solvents have no electrical value so they can't carry current.

If I remember correctly, water is an insulator. It's the impurities in the water that conduct electricity. I would assume dirty solvent would carry a decent :nuke:

My uncle uses and old bath tub for a solvent tank. It draws off the drain, and pumps back to the other end. Constant agitation while the pump is on.

Well Shiat, I just bought a HF 20 gal model for 139.99 and got pissed when I realized the catalog has the 40 gal one for 139.99. I will be returning the 20 gal one to the store and waiting on the 40 gal one. Now would it be hard to have a separate pump/ silt drop bin under it to allow settleing, and then pump that back up to the bin?

I also bought 2 restaraunt style Stainless Steel sinks with 12 foot tables. Cool deal is at $95 each from auctions and stuff they have a 4" lip so nothing can roll off the table. You can make the sink into a parts washer with a separate bin being needed. Hey Old Scout am I really going to hate the 40 gal HF one? At 139.99 is it that bad. I will use kero/diesel if its better. I was gonna try the water crap till i read this thread.

Now I saw the california ones with the Live Ozzies that eat the grease. They are organisms grease eatin suckers, and pricy at like $800 but all plastic and nice. Too much $$ for me though.

Old Scout PM me about the stuff you sell. Thanks

Fleckster

Originally posted by evilfij
where can I get just a pump?

my current method is a drum of Kero and a wire brush

What is the best solvent I can find cheap and local. How about gasoline? Paint stripper?

I could care less about the greenies

Ron

Stick with the kerosene, or something water based. Cleaning parts with gasoline or paint stripper may work really well, but it's also a major fire hazzard. A tub of kerosene is relatively difficult to accidentally set on fire - water based degreasers, nearly impossible. But a big old tank of gas or paint stripper being aerated by a pump, one spark and there is the potential for a big fire.

Originally posted by oldjeep


Stick with the kerosene, or something water based. Cleaning parts with gasoline or paint stripper may work really well, but it's also a major fire hazzard. A tub of kerosene is relatively difficult to accidentally set on fire - water based degreasers, nearly impossible. But a big old tank of gas or paint stripper being aerated by a pump, one spark and there is the potential for a big fire.

That would be cool, finish washing a part, turn around to install it and boom!

i have a little 5-gallon parts washer. when i got it, i filled it with kerosene. after sitting overnight (with the lid closed), the kerosene fumes were so bad in the garage it was un-bearable and probably dangerous. so, i drained it out and put in Mineral Spirits. it works really well, its cheap, and it easy to get ($10 for 5gallons at Tractor Supply Co.). doesn't seem to evaporate too bad either. hope this helps! matt

Originally posted by Nobody


If I remember correctly, water is an insulator. It's the impurities in the water that conduct electricity. I would assume dirty solvent would carry a decent :nuke:

.

Throw your toaster in the bath tub with ya, then get back to me with your results:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :nuke:

Originally posted by The Fleckster
Now I saw the california ones with the Live Ozzies that eat the grease. They are organisms grease eatin suckers, and pricy at like $800 but all plastic and nice. Too much $$ for me though.

Old Scout PM me about the stuff you sell. Thanks

Fleckster
:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:
Little Ozzies that's great! There are a few companies sell the grease eating critters, but they have problems. The crittters have a nornal life cycle and over time they multiply and multiply then die. There dead bodies become a thick sludge in the bottom of the drum:barf: :barf: . Fleck your too far away, shipping anything to your neck of the woods would be $$ I'll check into a local supplyer for ya, then PM ya.

Originally posted by evilfij
where can I get just a pump?

my current method is a drum of Kero and a wire brush

What is the best solvent I can find cheap and local. How about gasoline? Paint stripper?

I could care less about the greenies

Ron

Northern tool has solvent pumps at good price. Do not use paint stripper! Call a local petroleum distributor and ask for 170F or 140F Stoddard solvent. He will have it in 5,15,30,55 gallon packages.

Originally posted by Old Scout


Throw your toaster in the bath tub with ya, then get back to me with your results:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :nuke:

I think you missed what I was getting at. Distilled H20 does not conduct electricity. The shit running out of your tap is full of impurities and will certainly pack a :nuke: As would dirty solvent.

Originally posted by Nobody


I think you missed what I was getting at. Distilled H20 does not conduct electricity. The shit running out of your tap is full of impurities and will certainly pack a :nuke: As would dirty solvent.

I use one of these every day, do you know what it does?

Enlighten me :confused:

Water that's been double-distilled and deionized has a resistance of 14 megohms. It does conduct, but not much. Add just a little bit of "stuff" and the resistance drops like a rock. Most water has enough stuff in it to be a damn good conductor.

Organic compounds that have carboxylic acid functional groups, alcohols, many ketones, etc. are also decent conductors. Pure aliphatic hydrocarbons are generally OK insulators, and perhalo compounds (eg. freons, polychlorinated biphenyls, etc) are outstanding insulators.

Safe to say that all the assorted shit in a parts washer will conduct very well.

Hey nobody That sounds kinda funny!

It's a conductivity meter

It's used to measure the conductivity of a solution. It uses Microsiemens as it's scale.

Microsiemens (uS) (same as micromhos) is the unit for measuring conductivity and is used to approximate the total dissolved solids content of water. Water with 100mg/L of NaCl has a conductance of 212 uS/cm

I test cleaning solutions,boiler and cooling tower water for work. Many of the brewery's I service have a PLC that will auto dose chemical into a cleaning solution to a certain uS point. This solution is then used to clean a tank.

Lloyd you must be a chemist? Is megohms the same as microohms?

Man you guys are pretty fart smellers.:rasta:


But we all agree that any kind of dirty solvent will conduct, right??

Originally posted by Nobody

But we all agree that any kind of dirty solvent will conduct, right??

I would like to say fresh out of the drum it may conduct. The drum and basin are mild steel as well! A real solvent duty pump is only 10.00 more than a water pump so it seems very foolish to be a cheap bastard;) :D :rasta:

Yeah, I'm a chemist. BS UofR '92; Ph.D. NM Tech. '96. A megohm is 10^6 (one million) ohms; a microohm is 10^-6 (one millionth) of an ohm. Just a difference of 10^12. A mho (unit of conductivity) is an inverse ohm (unit of resistance), so a micromho is the same as a megohm. I always thought that the reversed spelling was pretty neat.

Originally posted by Lloyd
BS UofR '92; Ph.D. NM Tech. '96.

Does this mean we should call you Dr. Bullshit? :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Old Scout


Northern tool has solvent pumps at good price. Do not use paint stripper! Call a local petroleum distributor and ask for 170F or 140F Stoddard solvent. He will have it in 5,15,30,55 gallon packages.

"Stoddard Solvent".. how's that compare to Mineral Spirits and/or mix? ;)

I bought the Homier 20gal "bin" parts washer last summer and just recently finished the shop enough to bother to assemble the washer n' such..

Had a few gallons of Mineral Spirits that went in, but I need another 10-gallons.. but before I run out and throw more $$$ for Mineral Spirits..

Do I really need to look into something else, instead?

Originally posted by tsm1mt


"Stoddard Solvent".. how's that compare to Mineral Spirits and/or mix? ;)

I bought the Homier 20gal "bin" parts washer last summer and just recently finished the shop enough to bother to assemble the washer n' such..

Had a few gallons of Mineral Spirits that went in, but I need another 10-gallons.. but before I run out and throw more $$$ for Mineral Spirits..

Do I really need to look into something else, instead?

MS will work just fine, it's flash point is in the 110-120 range. It seems to be kinda of expensive. what's the going rate for a gallon in a 5 gallon pail?

Originally posted by Old Scout


MS will work just fine, it's flash point is in the 110-120 range. It seems to be kinda of expensive. what's the going rate for a gallon in a 5 gallon pail?

Just shy of $20 for 5gal, IIRC.

Which is why, if I need something else, I wanted to know before I go buy another 10 gallons...

I had 2-3 left over from "put some in a plastic bucket and wash parts".. but it didn't reach the pump (duh) so I bought another 5gal two weeks ago.. still not enough..

Parts store was out (I bought the last one), and I haven't taken the time to visit the petroleum distributor yet to see what they have it for..

Obviously, I haven't really felt like washing anything yet. :D Soon though.. I need to get the front bearings cleaned and repacked and the front end put back together on the racer..

$4 a gallon is a great price, just keep the lid closed.:D You would be hard pressed to get stoddard for less than 3.00-3.50 in a 20 gallon drum.

Ok I've been doing my homework and I just got an email reply from a friend of mine, part of which says:

Conductive fluids require free ions to conduct, as far as I know, kerosene is
considered to be an insulator, not a conductor.

And I looked up the dielectric constant of kerosene which is:
KEROSENE (70° F ) 1.8 (http://www.asiinstr.com/dc1.html#SECTION-K)
Compaired to the dielectric constant of water which is:
WATER 4-88 (http://www.asiinstr.com/dc1.html#SECTION-W)
And the dielectric constant of PVC:


POLYVINYL CHLORIDE 3.4 (http://www.asiinstr.com/dc1.html#SECTION-P)

So by my thinking kerosene is just about as good of an insulator as PVC.:D

So, why don't you explain exactly what a dielectric constant IS, and what relationship it has to electrical conductivity?

You really are making a fool of youself.

I priced mineral sprits at the paint store $4/gal. in 5 gal pails...Home depot had it for $1.87/gal. , then I chop the tops off the cans on the chopsaw and fold the edge over for a nice parts can.

Originally posted by dirtrod
I priced mineral sprits at the paint store $4/gal. in 5 gal pails...Home depot had it for $1.87/gal. , then I chop the tops off the cans on the chopsaw and fold the edge over for a nice parts can.

Cool! I'll be near a Home Depot tomorrow (closest one is 90 miles)..

Originally posted by Lloyd
So, why don't you explain exactly what a dielectric constant IS, and what relationship it has to electrical conductivity?

You really are making a fool of youself.

Why should I explain when it's explained so well here:
Dielectric Constant (http://www.mse.vt.edu/faculty/hendricks/mse4206/projects97/group01/solidstate/dielect.htm)

:flipoff2:

Originally posted by ForestCam


Why should I explain when it's explained so well here:
Dielectric Constant (http://www.mse.vt.edu/faculty/hendricks/mse4206/projects97/group01/solidstate/dielect.htm)

:flipoff2:

Dielectric Constant = is the property of a material that determines the relative speed that an electrical signal will travel in that material

Dielectric strength= is the materals ability to prevent the movment of electricity. but I'm just a dumb chemical salesman, :D :DThe Doctor will be with you shortly :smokin:

I have one of the harbor freight ones the larger one that stands up and has an electric pump. It been sitting on the side of the house for a while out side its in decent shape the inside is a little rusty last time I checked from the water based solvent that was used in it when it was new onlyy used a few times. If someone wants to give me a offer on it I would sell it?:D

Originally posted by ForestCam


Why should I explain when it's explained so well here:
Dielectric Constant (http://www.mse.vt.edu/faculty/hendricks/mse4206/projects97/group01/solidstate/dielect.htm)

:flipoff2:

So you mangaged to find a simple description of dielectric constant. If you bothered to read it, you know that this has NOTHING to do with resistance (assuming, of course, that you do know what resistance is; but that's probably not a valid assumption).

Originally posted by ForestCam

And I looked up the dielectric constant of kerosene which is:
KEROSENE (70° F ) 1.8
Compaired to the dielectric constant of water which is:
WATER 4-88
And the dielectric constant of PVC:


POLYVINYL CHLORIDE 3.4

So by my thinking kerosene is just about as good of an insulator as PVC


Nope, not a fucking clue.

BTW I've had classes in E&M since 1975, held a General class amateur radio license since 78, and you probably can't show me anything with Maxwell's equations. One of my best friends from grad school did a physics dissertation on dielectric measurements, and we worked together on a number of projects; this is something that I know a little about, and my bullshit threshold is very low tonight.

I gave several classes of organic compounds that DO conduct electricity - some very well. Toyota Jim blew his socks off in a free home demonstration. What does this have to do with parts washers? I'll cut to the chase.

You recommended the use of a cheap-ass pump, because someone you know has had it work for them for a while. Old Scout thought this was a bad idea (for good reason) and you want to argue about it. Real incident: a submerged swimming pool lamp worked fine for years for a family. One day a child swam past it, stopped swimming, and sank to the bottom of the pool. Another one went after them, again coming past the lamp. Again to the bottom of the pool. Third kid started after the other two - by this time lots of people were screaming and carrying on - and as he got near the light he felt a strange tingling and backed off. He lived, the other two died, because the lamp fixture had developed a leak.

Now before you give any more expert advice, I want you to go to your friend's parts washer, get hold of a good ground with one wet hand, and stick the other into that bucket and grab that pump while it's running. Maybe nothing will happen - we don't know if that pump's seals leak yet. Maybe they DO. Either way maybe you wont get someone else killed by talking out your ass. :mad3: :flipoff:

Well there's a simple answer tothis and maybe you heard of it. Obviously the person with the swimming person didn't and didn't bother to check if the electrical system in their pool met code.
It's called a Ground Fault Circut Interupter (GFCI).
Either put one in an outlet or they make breakers with them.
Problem solved.

Originally posted by ForestCam
Well there's a simple answer tothis and maybe you heard of it. Obviously the person with the swimming person didn't and didn't bother to check if the electrical system in their pool met code.
It's called a Ground Fault Circut Interupter (GFCI).
Either put one in an outlet or they make breakers with them.
Problem solved.
A GFI cost more than a good solvent pump!
:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

Originally posted by evilfij
where can I get just a pump?


Harbor Freight sells just the pump assembly too. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5286

This is the pump that fits their "heavy duty" washer.

--Dan

Man you guys make me laugh my ass off after welding and working in my shop all day :D . Hats off to ya, and if ya are too cheap to buy the recomended shit then perhaps I can scrounge up some (not being used at this moment dollers...Like i have any)
and send them your way for a few gallons of the good stuff.

Happy scrubbing all.....and why cant we all get along..:beer:

Fleckster

So...................:D
Survey says...el-cheepo (me)
Buy the 30 gal HF POS parts washer and thirty gallons of mineral spirits and I will be basically happy?

Originally posted by Skyetone
So...................:D
Survey says...el-cheepo (me)
Buy the 30 gal HF POS parts washer and thirty gallons of mineral spirits and I will be basically happy?

Add a filter and be VERY happy. :D

My garage is under our house. I don't use volatile chemicals in the garage because of health hazards for my wife and kids and fire hazard.

In the past I've done most of my parts washing in a big plastic tub with STP Grease Eater, then rinsed them with water and let them dry in the sun. Problem is it takes gallons of the STP and then I have to get rid of it, and it requires a sunny day or I get rust. And it's slow.

I don't have any outside place to run a parts washer.

If I get a Harbor Freight parts washer, what can I run it that won't put bad stuff in the air and be a fire hazard? Old Scout, what kind of filter do you suggest for one of those cheapie HF parts washers?

Morgan

A budy got an old stainless sink unit from work, we use a Rubbermaid tub underneath to hold kerosene, and a standard solvent pump back up tot he sink w/ a hose and nozle.

The setup seems to work well.


I will probably make a similar unit using a old kitchen double sink and build a stand for it...

I can't get away with running kerosene in my garage, it's directly under our house.

Morgan

Originally posted by morgan
I can't get away with running kerosene in my garage, it's directly under our house.

Morgan

What would this matter?

Originally posted by Old Scout


Add a filter and be VERY happy. :D

How do you adapt a filter to the free standing basin type, and what filter do you recommend?

The pump I currently have has the slots in the bottom and side of the housing instead of a pickup tube.

I thought of running a different style pump that sits outside the tank with a fuel filter from a deisel, but this seems way too complicated. There must be a setup that's designed for this with cleaneable or replaceable filters with enough capacity to not plug up quickly?

Thanks for any help!

I would think for a filter you could rig up just about anthying... my buddy made a junction block that accepted 2 old Toyota oil filters - works great :)