: 1"BL, broke bolt in body


crawlin'YJ
03-27-2002, 11:48 PM
It's the body mount at the rear right next to the bumper on the pass side.All 1" mounts are in and bolted in place except I can't put the bolt through that one till I find a way to get the rest of the bolt out of the body. It broke off flush in the hole in the body (guess the 1/2 impact wrench has too much torque.) All other bolts came out pretty easily, didn't realize it had broken off till I looked at the rest of the bolt, then at the hole in the body. "Wierd. Guess it won't be easy to put in the new bolt now." I thought of drilling it, but I was thinking that it would probably make it worse. Any ideas?

YJ4LIFE
03-28-2002, 12:41 AM
I hope I won't have that problem this week when I do my 1" :crybaby2:

High5
03-28-2002, 02:24 AM
drill and retap the hole.

Military Jeeper
03-28-2002, 02:55 AM
Depending on how tight it is still in there you can do 2 things of the top of my head

Grind a line in it and use a flat head to unscrew it...........or weld a bolt to it and unscrew it.

m715
03-28-2002, 04:25 AM
Nah...easy solution, take a hole saw and cut a little above where the bolt goes into the body. Then there is a thin piece of metal holding the threaded plate in, knock it out and remove the threaded plate and broken bolt.

Next get a couple big washers a replacement bolt, a nylon lock nut and a plastic body plug, re-install pop in body plug and you are done and never have to worry about braking again

I have some picts on my site cj7jeep.com (http://www.cj7jeep.com) but the stupid #$%^ site won't load for me
If you get it to load look in tech/body

LUke

bigdude
03-28-2002, 04:37 AM
Nah...easy solution, take a hole saw and cut a little above where the bolt goes into the body. Then there is a thin piece of metal holding the threaded plate in, knock it out and remove the threaded plate and broken bolt.

Next get a couple big washers a replacement bolt, a nylon lock nut and a plastic body plug, re-install pop in body plug and you are done and never have to worry about braking again


What he said (sort of). It happened on both of my YJ rear mounts. Just pull the rubber corner guard out so you can see up in there (from underneath). Then cut out a hole. I drilled a few holes then hit it with a sawzall. I did it inside the rear corner so I didn't have to cut holes in the bed area. Took about 15 minutes per side.

I don't think you will be able to drill and tap it (at least not easily), and if it broke then an easy out probably won't get it either.

Jakesteramalamajama
03-28-2002, 04:38 AM
Originally posted by m715
Nah...easy solution, take a hole saw and cut a little above where the bolt goes into the body. Then there is a thin piece of metal holding the threaded plate in, knock it out and remove the threaded plate and broken bolt.

Next get a couple big washers a replacement bolt, a nylon lock nut and a plastic body plug, re-install pop in body plug and you are done and never have to worry about braking again

I have some picts on my site cj7jeep.com (http://www.cj7jeep.com) but the stupid #$%^ site won't load for me
If you get it to load look in tech/body

LUke

This happened to me when I was removing body mounts to install new ones as well. This fix worked great....

Luke didn't say this, but I think it was what he meant: You can access it from the inside of the fender. Just remove any plastic in the fenderwells and make the hole in the back wall of the fenderwell...

Also, you can just make three cuts with a moto tool cutter or die grinder in a "[" shape instead of using a holesaw. Then you can bend it out to gain access and bend it back when you're done. This will leave a smaller hole when you're finished so less crap will theoretically get in there. It'll also minimize the chance of the guide drill damaging the outer surface of the fender when the holesaw pokes through the inner wall.

Jake

Jakesteramalamajama
03-28-2002, 04:41 AM
Originally posted by bigdude


What he said (sort of). It happened on both of my YJ rear mounts. Just pull the rubber corner guard out so you can see up in there (from underneath). Then cut out a hole. I drilled a few holes then hit it with a sawzall. I did it inside the rear corner so I didn't have to cut holes in the bed area. Took about 15 minutes per side.

I don't think you will be able to drill and tap it (at least not easily), and if it broke then an easy out probably won't get it either.

You beat me to it! :flipoff2:

And yeah--you'll never be able to drill and tap it. There's just a nut in there that rides in a carriage that's tack welded to the top surface of the bottom plate of the body. ...Unless you think you can tap a hardened nut...

TrekkinTJ
03-28-2002, 09:04 PM
I would go for the drill... make sure your centered or ur screwed.. if that wont work and If it broke smooth you an JB Weld an extention to it then wratch it the rest of the way with a breaker bar with a cheater handle. That way you don't bounce it off and break the weld. In the mean time while it is just sitting get some rust remover and let it loosen itself. That spray is underated. I have done this before but on a Hummer.
:usa: