My D.T. Crawler YJ Re-Build with Dual T-Case

[Double Trouble]

Why is it that one Jeep is Never Enough ?

In winter of 1988 I was infected with Jeep Fever, ever since no method to cure this has worked on me ??
Several years pass and 10 Jeeps later, I am still left with an incurable Jeep Impediment that I enjoy to the MAX, which leads me to my latest 11th project...

... Double Trouble !! a 1990 YJ Rock Crawler Dual T-Cases ( NP231/D300 ) - 100 to 1 Ratio !!

Very Cool - Used the Mad Rooster Kit see posts below...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/productreviews/mad_rooster

(Edited Jan 19th - I just bought a D300 with 4:1 LoMax Kit & 32 Spline F & R Outputs, so... my New Crawl Ratio 153 to 1 !! )

I was going to build ( from scratch ) something similar to this...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/CJRockCrawler.jpg

… but I came across this YJ that was Well Built and very well enjoyed by it's previous owner.
My plan is to rebuild and update the chassis to have a Recreational Crawler, not full out competition.
Here I am, First Day... testing the suspension flex with a Forklift, in my Factory.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0194mail.jpg

SPECS for this chassis ( how I bought it ):

1990 Jeep YJ ( ownership included )
- partial stock YJ frame and custom tube frame with complete roll cage built in
- 1&3/4 and 2" .120 wall tubing
- Ontario Rock Crawl Comp. approved frame and roll cage for the unlimited class
- dual window nets
- roof plates from 1/8 aluminum diamond plate
- front grill / rad hoop tied into fender bars and tied into main roll cage
- seats and shifters mounted to cage
- YJ hood & grill, body panels are aluminum and clear lexan
- all seat belt tabs welded in and ready for 4pt harness
- full dash with autometer sport comp oil & water temp gauges
- stock YJ tilt steering column
- mounts for orbital steering valve
- frame is set up for coils suspension - front 3 link and panhard bar
- rear 4 link
- wheelbase is approx 108 - 110 "
- complete coil suspension with front 3 link, panhard bar, rear 4 link, front 15" travel shocks, rear 12" travel shocks, front 8" coils , rear 5" coils. All suspension and panhard links are made from 2" DOM 1/4 wall tubing using large RE joints, ploy bushings and 3/4 heim joints.

Axles: 5:13 Gearing, Disk Brakes.
Front - Chevy D60 with Detroit Locker, 35 slpine outers, upgraded "U" joints and Drive Plates.
Rear - Ford D60 with welded spiders, 30 spline Yukon Shafts, Chevy disk brakes.


I started the rebuild Oct 05, once I get my pics sorted out I'll show you what I started with and what changes were made for what reason.

One of my main ideas for this build was "Keep it Jeep" as much as possible so it doesn't take away from the performance and/or safety.

Added benefit,... it also keeps the cost down !

[Double Trouble]

Here is the new home for my project. I have a decent sized space in a factory ( my family business ), we manufacture Heavy Equip. so many tools & metal working machinery on site, just not a tube bender !!

This was my main reason for buying a chassis with the tube work already done, this way I could rebuild & update with my own ideas ;)
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0201mail.jpg

Now my problem is what to do first ???

I knew it was going to be an injected YJ 4.0 motor, Auto & I wanted the Double T-Case, so... start from the motor & worked my way back.

One very used CJ 4.2, Auto, D300 - wash/strip off and re-install on my YJ 4.0 motor.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/Doubler03mail.jpg

After a bit of research “On Line” & several phone calls around Ontario, I wasn't able to find the double t-case kit I wanted locally, a brief e-mail to a California Company with a modest amount of money spent and a week later... I have the Mad Rooster NP231/D300 Doubler Kit in my hands !! At this point it starts to get interesting...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/Doubler02mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

As you can see in above post I bought the Double T-Case Kit. The person at Mad Rooster was great to deal with but even then things don't always go as smoothly as the articles you read on Pirate4x4.com !!

One - Mad Rooster Doubler
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/Doubler02mail.jpg

One - Slightly abused NP231 T-Case
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/Doubler04mail.jpg

One - Ugly Old Dana 300
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0025mail.jpg

( Edited Feb 4th - Along this build I bought a Very Built up D300 )
This case has both Output 32 spline shafts, AA Input Shaft and Lowmax 4:1 Kit, Twin Stick, CV yokes front & rear.
My new Crawl Ratio is 153:1, might be too much... let's see when she's done ;)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/D3004to1mail.jpg

( Edited July 20th - D300 Mount Support Bracket )

I was asking around for different ideas on how to support the D300.
This Double Case setup deserves the extra support so the one idea that seemed the strongest & easiest to build is shown in the photo below.

I welded a tube on the cover plate and used leaf spring bushings, with a simple flat mount on my skid plate.
One problem: welding that plate, even though it's thick steel - it warped and now leaks.
I'll drain the case, place a very thin layer of silicone * hope it doesn't effect the bearing shims ?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0017mail-1.jpg

[Double Trouble]

The Mad Rooster kit is well made, the instructions are not the greatest but you can figure it easily enough while you (carefully) test fit parts and assemble.

( Recently spoke with guy at Mad Rooster and changes have been made to the instructions to reflect issues I had with my install. ) It’s GREAT when you can talk with a company and they really listen to you !!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0005NPmail.jpg

Edited ( Mar. 7th-06 )

I did all the mods for the Mad Kit but don't have an Aluminum Welder to cover the opening from triming off the front ouput section.
Finally I came across a friend that could get it done...
Here is the case with the finished welds, what an AMAZING Job... Thanks JD !!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/NP231Weld02mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/NP231Weld01mail.jpg


The instruction don't mention that the 2 studs ( for the adpater flange ) should have the thread drilled out of the NP231 and material ground off the NP231 housing to fit the nut on the opposite side, also not mentioned is the need to cut away at the D300 Shift rod bracket in order to get to the stud with a socket or wrench. ( this is needed when you clock the D300 to it's up most position: see below )

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0028mail.jpg



The Kit comes with a clocking ring for the D300, I quickly drove in the bolts to do my test fitting.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0017mail.jpg

When I went to install the flange plate !! S*** !!
Here is my first real problem, one set of clocking holes is out of degree from the rest. ( note small orange mark to the right side of ring.) So I can only get 5 bolts on the flange plate, which was okay for test fitting ( for now ).

I must say that the guy at Mad Rooster was VERY Helpful and understanding about sending me up a replacement ring. No Arguments, returned every call and answer all my questions. I would do business with them again.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0006mail.jpg


After the minor set backs of... a bit of grinding & cutting, I am left with a T-Case Reduction of 7.1264 to 1 that is only 17.5 inches long ( reminder that a stock NP231 is 18.5 !! ;) and doesn't weight that mucn more than D300.

All the other parts in the kit were perfect quality & fit.
This is the quick description of that kit, it is a little more involved, if anyone wants to know more PM me.

Here is the full powetrain ( I forgot to measure it from tip to tale ? I will post it later) it should be 1" less than a stock YJ.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0024mail.jpg

[BlueAngel]

11 jeeps in 18 years! You must not like settling down :flipoff2: I guess that makes me a loyal owner with only 2 jeeps in 12 years :D

Looks good keep the pictures coming, what else do you plan on changing on the comp yj?

[SPEEDCRAVIN]

Looks like you have a good start... Keep us updated...

JOSH

[HybridPOS]

I like it, keep us updated!

[Double Trouble]

[QUOTE=BlueAngel]11 jeeps in 18 years! You must not like settling down :flipoff2: I guess that makes me a loyal owner with only 2 jeeps in 12 years :D

Hey Blue Angle,

I am Brand Loyal (JEEP, there is NO Prostitute ! Ooops I mean NO Substitute !! ;)

Jokes aside - Jeeps come & go... friends/Family are Forever. This makes my Life Great and my Family Off-Road Adventures just the BEST !!

[TJDale]

Thank you for the right up. I am looking at this kit now for my Jeep. I'm not sure I need all that gearing for our east coast wheelin but I need an adaptor from my tranny to a d300 and this kit is not much more than a regulor adaptor, especially when compaired to a 4:1 kit or a Klune. And its not like I have to use all the gear all the time. But it will be there when I need it. Keep us post on how its all going.

[Double Trouble]

Thank you for the right up. I am looking at this kit now for my Jeep. I'm not sure I need all that gearing for our east coast wheelin but I need an adaptor from my tranny to a d300 and this kit is not much more than a regulor adaptor, especially when compaired to a 4:1 kit or a Klune. And its not like I have to use all the gear all the time. But it will be there when I need it. Keep us post on how its all going.

If the D300 doesn't already fit on your trans, you will still need an adapter to use this kit. The NP231-23 spline input is almost exactly the same as D300 for the Bolt pattern & input spline ( only difference is the length of the input spline, some NP231 are shorter than the 300 so it doesn't seal properly in an older CJ transmission.)

http://www.advanceadapters.com/case8704.html

Check out the above link for info on the 231 & adapters.
I used an older TF999 Trans from a CJ for my Crawler.

[Double Trouble]

This Jeep has seen some Great Off-Road trips already, here are some pics with it's previous owner - down in the Moab and up at Ontario's Rock Crawl Comp.

[ACHASE6002]

tj dale has a 4 cly thats why he has to get that specail adapter, i think

[desertCJ]

tj dale has a 4 cly thats why he has to get that specail adapter, i think

Actually, he could use the 21 spline 231 that he has for the crawl box and put a d300 behind it with my adapter.

[Pinkstonmm]

Recently I have been thinking about dual cases for myself as well. I am running a SM420 with a novak adapter to a dana 300. Is there a way to get this set up to work behind the novak adapter? I have tried searching, but didnt come up with much.

[RockGodTJ]

sweet buildup. keep us updated

[Double Trouble]

tj dale has a 4 cly thats why he has to get that specail adapter, i think

Like Desert CJ said... you won't need a special adapter just the front half of the 21 spline case that is currently in TJDale's Jeep will work with the Mad Rooster Kit because the internal shaft is the same regardless of the NP231 input shaft 21 or 23 spline.

That would be sweet to see a 4cyl Rock Crawling past & around BIG V8's !!

[Double Trouble]

Recently I have been thinking about dual cases for myself as well. I am running a SM420 with a novak adapter to a dana 300. Is there a way to get this set up to work behind the novak adapter? I have tried searching, but didnt come up with much.

If you already have the D300 behind you trans than NO Problem becuae the NP231 - 23 Spline is Exactly the same spline count & bolt pattern. I am using a CJ Tranny and if you look above photos the NP231 bolts directly on it ( No Mods.). The only issue is how it seals on the transmission output but that's an easy fix. Ask Desert CJ and he is very cool to deal with.

[TJDale]

That would be sweet to see a 4cyl Rock Crawling past & around BIG V8's !!


My 4cyl has already crawled up and past bigger rigs with V8s. Seriously though I think I'm going to go with this kit. We'll see.

[doug_1994]

ive been eyeballing this kit for a while now just gotta save up for it, but i will definatly be doing the same thing, only with a np435.

sweet build though, keep the pics coming:beer:

[Double Trouble]

Thank for the compliment guys, there are some amazing projects & builders on this site !!

Okay... back to my build:

So far... the powertrain looks good sitting on my shop floor, getting it into the Crawler was fun because the Jeep is fully caged, removing the front grill would of made this task easy, not possible this time.

I got lazy not wanting to split up the powertrain so I grabbed one of my forklifts & hoisted the thing up on a steep angle and managed to sneak it into the chassis.
I was too preoccupied with getting the thing in safely to take pictures of it dangling in the air.

Here it is temporarily help up by straps and a tube across the cage because there are no motor mounts on the frame !

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0004mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0003mail.jpg



Next Step... Motor mounts, luckily I was stripping a YJ with a bent frame so, cut the motor mounts from that to use in the crawler. It was too easy, a few quick measurements and Weld Away, it's done ? New Problem, engine is too low ! Okay make spacers, you can barley see under the stock mount the rectangle tube, it gave me 1.5" lift and that is better for ground clearance more so for drive shaft angle !!

You may also notice the YJ Inj. 4.0, running a newer intake with Borla header. There are a few more trick to this motor once the rebuild is complete.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/IntakeExhaustMotorLiftmail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

I am at a bit of loss to compromise between: drive shaft angle in relation to the current pinion angle ( none adjustable ) and having a flat skid plate for the T-Cases. The Double Kit doesn't work all that great with a Flat Skid because part of the NP231 hangs low & needs a clocking ring to turn it up ward, this creats a new problem rotating the D300 downward, so my compromise solution is below...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0005mail.jpg

... I measured the output & pinion angles, then lowered the T-case output to the correct angle and made drop sections to the frame supporting the Flat Skid. I'll use a slender center skid to protect the Trans & Oil Pan.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/TCaseSkid1mail.jpg

This Flat skid is the lowest point of my chassis and is 26" off the ground... ( not bad ? ). Hope my centre of gravity is not to high ??

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/TCaseSkid2mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

Now that the Powertrain is in place, I can move forward again to the Front end and fit the Radiator in place. The cage work and chassis setup is Great in this YJ Simple/Strong !! A stock YJ rad will work with the stock motor for now, when I build the stroker 4.5 I'll replace it with a 3 or 4 core aluminum. I will also be adding additional coolers for the Transmission and Hydraulic Steering.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/FrontEndre-workmail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/RadSupportmail.jpg

The chassis was setup previously with full hydraulic steering so... why not keep it that way ? I installed an orbitral that matched the cylinder size & type I am using, the stock YJ pump should provide enough pressure. I may have to add an extra oil tank & cooler ?? For now, I just need to get it done so here is the steer shaft... cute ain't it :)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/SteerPumpShaftmail.jpg

and... here is the shaft installed between the YJ column and orbitral.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/Steeringassembleymail02.jpg

[geberhard]

Nice!! 11 Jeeps, ah that is nothing :) The setup looks great! About the rear pinion angle, any more pics on whow it will come out, and what is the rear driveshaft length now?

Sweet project!

[Double Trouble]

{geberhard} The rear shaft length is 23", I'll have more info on the drive shaft angles and what I will run use... haven't got to that yet, I may modify the rear suspension angle ?

Okay, were was I ?? Oh ya.. the steering pump and orbitral are installed, now to the front axle to mount the cylinder. I was able to get a steer cylinder from my inventory, we use it in our smallest model forklift. The forklift weight is 13,000 lbs. & is capable of carrying an additional 6,000 so I think it should stand up to a bit of pounding from a little Rock Crawler ;)
The cylinder is 2.5" x 1.5" rod x 9" stroke ( internal limited blocks installed for the D60 turning radius.)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/Steering14mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/Steering21mail.jpg


2 Pillow Blocks are welded to the previous support securely mounting the cylinder, the caps have been shaved down to give extra clearance to the rad. The connecting end links are also a modified forklift steer component.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/Steering22mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

While working on all these modification I need to do, one problem keeps hanging over my head ? What do I run for Rims/Tires ??

My wife's Rubicon runs 36" IROKS and we LOVE these tires.

This YJ had 38.5 TSL/SX but that wasn't included in the deal so I needed to buy a set. I did manage to borrow a NICE set of tires to test fit... 36" IROKS on custom rims.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/DTwith36-16s01mail.jpg

Seeing them on the Jeep I was considering staying with 36's so I have the same tires on both TJ & YJ. The IROK 36" is on the LEFT the TSL/SX 38.5 is on the RIGHT.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/DTwith36-16s05mail.jpg

Several phone calls and countless hours spent on the net looking for Rims/Tires, ( used, couldn't find what I liked ) so...I end up buying NEW rims from a shop in Ontario. The price was reasonable and delivery was quick for a set of steel rims with the Bead Lock Welded in place.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/BeadLWheel06mail.jpg

New Problem, the welds were okay but needed a bit of touch up & a VERY Good grinding to remove sharp edges that would eventually chaffe and cut the tire.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/BeadLWheel01mail.jpg

One nights work and problem fixed, now I am ready to scuff & prep for my NEW Colours !!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/BeadLWheel03mail.jpg

(Edit Jan 26th-2006)

Forgot to mention that the Bead Lock ring itself needed some work (grinding).
Because it’s Plasma or Laser cut it has a sharp edge (to the outer ring) this touches the tire ( especially ay Very Low Air pressure ).
The tire bulge will rub against the ring and eventually wear, more likely an impact with a rock will more easily cut through the tire !!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/BeadLWheel04mail.jpg

Simple… round off the edge with a grinder, sand it down a bit further by hand.
This won’t eliminate the problem but definitely less of a chance for failure.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/BeadLWheel05mail.jpg


Here they are my NEW Bead Lock wheel with tires I borrowed ( Okay, Okay.. I Stole them off the wife's Jeep ;)~ Well, I am going to buy her new Better Tires in the spring ! I'll get the Radial version of the same tire they will be better for road use.

Here are her old 36" Bias Ply IROKS on my 15x10" rims.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/BeadLWheel07mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

The Bead Lock Ring is barely finger tighten on and... F*** the ring touches the inner lock and the tire is still lose ??? Now I am starting to get a little p****d off !!

The rim has a 3/4" ring to support the flange and it turns out that the IROK tire has a smaller bead than most other Interco tires or BFG's ect... ? Now I am stuck with a painted rim that I will need rework. I called the shop that made the rims, he was VERY good about coming to get the rims, repair & return them to me.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/BeadLWheel10mail.jpg

I could just imagine what the rims would look like after grinding/welding and touch up...?
HEY..., I have my own solution !! I took the rim into my machine shop & IT FITS on my larger lathe, so I carefully cut down the lip to 1/2" and with minimal touch up paint, it looks fine.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/BeadLWheel11mail.jpg

Sometimes problems provide NEW solutions, mine came in the form of a rim problem that lead me to a tire solution. I needed to get the 36" off the rim to machine it, while at the tire shop chatting I lucked into a deal on a NEW Set of IROKS for a GREAT Price and it so happens that they are a little bigger than the 36...

... on the LEFT is my wife's 36" IROKS, on the RIGHT is the oringinal 38.5" TSL/SX and in the MIDDLE are my new 39.5 IROKS !!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/TireCompare01mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

Now that I have the first tire mounted and a smile from diff to diff :) Let's try it on the Crawler and take a pic...
... Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaat the F*** NOW ???

It won't fit all the way on the hub ? Okay pull it off and grab a rim without the tire to have a better look at what is going on ??

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/FrontCaliper05mail.jpg

Turns out the rim is 1/2 offset different from the old rims and the front caliper will need to be ground down another 1/2 further :( Well, there goes another nights works !!
Remember, TEST FIT everything before hand.
( Of course I already know this but forgot, lucky this time it's not a big deal to fix. )

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/FrontCaliper04mail.jpg

This has to be one of the WORST tasks I've had to do on this project rebuild !! Caliper Grinding :(

Luckily, I didn't mount all 4 tires & rims. With the one rim I spent an evening installing rim/ spin to see what touches / grinding high spot / refit rim & spin again.

I should mention these calpiers were already ground down for the previous 15" wheel, I couldn't imagine the work if you had to do it from a stock Caliper ???

At least the rear calipers are okay because the mount was modified to set the caliper lower onto the rotor. Thanks to the guy who built this chassis.

Here is what the front look like after I was done.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/FCaliper11mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/FCaliper13mail.jpg

Now with rim, pretty close fit... but just enough to clear. I will go back and check for marks once I get it out driving on a trail.
Hope I ground enough off ?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/FCaliperwithRim02mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/FCaliperwithRim01mail.jpg

[Otto Man]

Does the 3/4 ton chevy caliper kit several PBB vendors sell not fit your front 60? I know you can run 15's with no grinding at all with chebby calipers.

[Brink_]

Been there on the caliper grinding. NOT FUN!!! Did it to a stock Dodge 60 to fit 15" rims. Borrowed the biggest grinder I could find and it still sucked a$$.

Things are looking great. Keep the pics coming. Love the doubler.

[doug_1994]

im runnin' the 39.5 iroks also, you will love 'em. nice shop too. wish i had a lathe like that!

[Double Trouble]

Does the 3/4 ton chevy caliper kit several PBB vendors sell not fit your front 60? I know you can run 15's with no grinding at all with chebby calipers.

The axles already had these calipers ( now they are ground down ) so I am working with what I have for now. Thanks for the info. I wasn't aware that another caliper would fit, I may change them the first time I have to do a brakle job ?

[Double Trouble]

im runnin' the 39.5 iroks also, you will love 'em. nice shop too. wish i had a lathe like that!

IROK... We Love them too !!

Here is a pick of my wife's 2003 Rubicon - 8" Double Flex, Skyjacker with 36" IROKS.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/IMG_2554mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0034mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0029mail.jpg

We scored (BIG TIME) getting the lift kit, rims/tires used from another Rubicon that had to down size ?
I think the tire looks ugly ( I prefer the look of the BFG or MTR ) but never imagined how good it off-roads !!
Now, I won't buy any other tire for Trail Use !

And... yes, having a shop with machinery makes a project like this SO much easier. More pics & info coming...

[Double Trouble]

I think I've done enough grinding for 2006, so back to fabricating... many things left to do !

I have a few items that all effect each other, exhaust/engine skid plate/transmission mount. I need to resolve a problem with the Borla Header before I can make my Exhaust.

Problem: The Borla hangs lower than the engine oil pan.
I want to get the skid plate closer to the pan.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/BorlaHdr3mail.jpg

Solution: Notch the Borla just below the collector and heatup the material, bend up and over to clear pan & chassis. Remember that this header was designed to run over to the Passanger side of the chassis with a crossover tube but my Crawler has passanger side drive shaft ( Chevy front axel ) so I need to stay Left.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/BorlaHdr4mail.jpg

Now it is above the Oil pan to clear the Skid Plate.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/BorlaHdr5mail.jpg

It runs straight down the Drivers side with a few strategic beds to clear the T-Cases and come out the center of the rear chassis.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/ExhaustSystem01mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/ExhaustSystem02mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

When I first installed the power train, I needed to quickly hang the trans. so I could make the rear skid plate.
I tried to guess how much space I would need to run the exhaust and miscalculated just a bit.

Here is the first crossmember I built, I needed to go over top of the passenger floor to clear the drive shaft. ( Notice I cut most of the mid floor pan out to work more easily, I'll make a cover for the floor later ;)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/TransCrossMount01mail.jpg

Upper Mount:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/TransMntUppermail.jpg

Now that I've done the exhaust this crossmember just won't fit without rework.
Cut the old tube off, new square tubing on and figure out how to get around the exhaust without it hanging Too Low !!

Using flat bar I made a notched extension to my crossmember to sneak under the tube and attach to the bushing mount.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/TransMnt10mail.jpg

It fits !! I now have the room for the exhaust and haven't
dropped to low to get in the way of my next part... the center skid for the Engine & Trans. Pan.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/TransMnt11mail.jpg

[Sharp]

wow looking good, that CJ in the first pic is awesome!!

[Double Trouble]

wow looking good, that CJ in the first pic is awesome!!

Thanks, yes that CJ is AWESOME !!

As I said in my first post, I really wanted to build that.
I had a 91 YJ that I used for off-roading, I bought a CJ front clip and was about to convert it when a neighbour of mine offered good money to buy it as a YJ ?

I felt bad after wards because I needed a project to build and eventually came across this YJ chassis. I 'll have more pics soon of the build !
Take Care.
DB

[Double Trouble]

wow looking good, that CJ in the first pic is awesome!!

This is one of the CJ's I restored, it was more of a show vehicle than off-roader.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/1986CJBlue02mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/1986CJBlue01mail.jpg

Sold it a while back & miss it but not the carb motor, so I got this Islander Injected 4.0 and started to restore it to build a replica CJ, eventually to build that Super CJ you liked in the first post.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/NelliSofttopmail.jpg

I really do have a Jeep Impedament !! ;)

[Otto Man]

The axles already had these calipers ( now they are ground down ) so I am working with what I have for now. Thanks for the info. I wasn't aware that another caliper would fit, I may change them the first time I have to do a brakle job ?


Those are the chevy 1 ton calipers I believe. I'm running something 70's chevy front calipers for my 14bolt. I know several PBB vendors sell the 3/4 ton brake brackets. With these calipers, 15's fit no problem. I got stuck with 16's because of the ford 1 ton brakes on the front.

Heres a pic of mine. Bling, bling. Yeah I know. :flipoff2:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v155/leadfoot/14bolt/2004_1027_192849AA.jpg

[Double Trouble]

[QUOTE=Otto Man]Those are the chevy 1 ton calipers I believe. I'm running something 70's chevy front calipers for my 14bolt. I know several PBB vendors sell the 3/4 ton brake brackets. With these calipers, 15's fit no problem. I got stuck with 16's because of the ford 1 ton brakes on the front.


Thanks Otto Man, I have the 3/4 ton calipers on my back Ford D60 axle with modified brackets & they still needed a bit of grinding ?? It must be the offset & style of 15" wheel I have , the previous wheels were from Blue Torche Fab and fit okay ( touched a little ).

I am going to try the caliper from the rear, on the front to see if I can use the 3/4 caliper all the way around.
Take Care, thanks again for the info.
DB

[Double Trouble]

Finally ( with the help of my cousin Rob [ THANKS !! ] I have all the brake calipers ground down enough to fit my wheels and see what she looks like with her new rims/rubber :)

I hope the 1/2" offset inward won't have the tires hitting the chassis ??
Oh well, we will find that out later when I test the suspension updates ?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/All4TiresUP2mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/All4TiresDown1mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

I have almost all the parts needed to finish this rebuild, just a few more parts to fabricate and off to my paint booth it goes...

... this weekend I decided to tackle the Engine & Trans. Pan Skid Plate.

I had an idea of how the skid would look but how to mount it so that it doesn't get in the way of the front drive shaft ??? Here is how I did it ...

... I have seen what Rock can do to a Pan or exhaust pipe, this skid is going to be 1/4" plate and has to be mounted very well to support a good hit or the weight of the jeep if I get hung on something ???

Here is one Very exposed mid section...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/TransMnt11mail.jpg

My idea is to have a slender skid just enough to protect the pans & pipes, still leave enough room for the front drive shaft.

Notice my make shift drive shaft, for fitting purpose ONLY !!
Lucky, I still have the front suspension in place to use pieces of wood to hold the pan, while I take measurments, to make the mounting brackets.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/SkidEngTran04mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

As soon as I hung up the plate, I noticed it touched the Trans. crossmember.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/SkidEngTran05mail.jpg

Easy Fix, although I am a littled concerned with how I mounted the skids together.
Is this lip on the second skid going to give me big problems on the rocks ??

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/SkidEngTran017mail.jpg

The front was the Hard Part to deal with...
... what do I do ? It's just hanging there ??

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/SkidEngTran06mail.jpg

I need it strong, not to heavy and easy to mount !
Thick wall square tube...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/SkidEngTran022mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

I used the same idea from my Transmission crossmember for the front Skip Pan mount, go over the drive shaft on top of the passenger side frame rail !!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/SkidEngTran015mail.jpg

Front View ( Installed )
Plenty of room for the drive shaft.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/SkidEngTran021mail.jpg

Rear View - Looks like everything is well protected and clears nicely ;)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/SkidEngTran019mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

Don't you just wish you could buy every part you wanted or needed for you build right at the beggining of your Project ??
Sometimes it not a matter of money... just finding exactly what you want is a Neat Trick ;)

For must of us " Do it Yourself " or " Backyard " Builders, (which I condsider myself because this is my hobby and I don't ever make any money on my work !!), we have to build with what we have on hand.
This can mean some back tracking to re-work areas to fit new parts we just received.

My cousin mounted the Rad for me but at that time no Coolers ? Definitely going to need Trans & Hydraulic Steer Cooler !!

Here is the Rads first install...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/RadSupportmail.jpg

Now with the addition of a few new brackets welded in place and a little grinding re-working mounting tabs on the cooler...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/TranSteerCooler02mail.jpg

I have a clean fit that just clears the front grill !!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/FrintGrill01mail.jpg

[bp95yj]

awesome build up and pics. I really like the skid plates and their design. Everything is tucked up so neatly. It is quiet obvious that you have taken alot of time and thought in this project.

My only question and it may just be the picture but is the front trac bar going to clear the radiator when the front suspension is compressed. I realize the trac bar is going to pivot on the frame side as the suspension cycles but it only looks like you have about an inch of clearance.

Keep up the good work.

Brandon

[Double Trouble]

awesome build up and pics. I really like the skid plates and their design. Everything is tucked up so neatly. It is quiet obvious that you have taken alot of time and thought in this project.

My only question and it may just be the picture but is the front trac bar going to clear the radiator when the front suspension is compressed. I realize the trac bar is going to pivot on the frame side as the suspension cycles but it only looks like you have about an inch of clearance.

Keep up the good work.

Brandon

Thanks Brandon, the track bar is behind the rad ( hard to tell in the pic ) and it does clear. I am more worried about the steer cylinder hitting my RAD !! I can limit the suspension but I want as much travel as possible.

Next week, I will move the Jeep off my hoist and test the suspension clearance for the new parts I installed. Pics coming soon...

DB

[Double Trouble]

Little behind schedule but things are going well, I was hoping to have the YJ off the hoist to work on the suspension but a set back with my seats & interior layout has me reworking this area first.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/BackEnd28mail.jpg

A while back I found a cheap set of seats that fit okay so I mounted them and sent them out to get recovered ( Red won't look right for my final paint scheme ;)

Now that's better !!
This will look just perfect with the Silver & Blue Paint I have selected.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/GraySeat10mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

This is how the seat were previously setup...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/IntOri08mail.jpg

Not any more !!

I need the cross bars lower and I want it removable !!
This will make it easier to remove the floor pan also to service the back half of the drive train.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/SeatMount07mail.jpg

[geberhard]

Coming out great, what is the plan for the tank\cell location?

[Double Trouble]

Coming out great, what is the plan for the tank\cell location?

Thanks, I have three choices for tanks right now.
The original Aluminum Cell is available ( that was in this chassis ) but I need to run external fuel pump.
2nd, I could make my own steel tank and fit in the Jeep Sender with fuel pump.
3rd, use the jeep tank complete and just make a cover for it.
Mount the proper vent & fuel filler neck.

Not sure which way I'll go with this but I have to decide soon !!

[Double Trouble]

Seat Mount continued...

Simple fix... cut some square tubing to make mounts, drill / weld in place and now it's removable.
I don't hit my head on the roll bar anymore.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/SeatSup02mail.jpg

Having all this bolt in is A LOT of work but it will pay in the Long Run when you need to do repairs !!
Trust me ! I Plan to drive this Jeep HARD and enjoy it.
Working from above instead of laying on the ground is Much Better ( ask anyone ).

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/SeatSup03mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

The interior is more work than I expected but the finished result is worth the extra effort.
Here is the new mount for the seat assembly installed.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/FloorPan04mail.jpg

My recovered seat…

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/SeatIN33mail.jpg

I should back track a minute and mention:

One day I got fed up with… up/down - up/down to re & re my t-cases also to setup my T-case Controls so…

You noticed, I took a torch to the floor pan and cut out the center section, now there is plenty of room to work :)

Does anyone miss straight flat floor pans ?? I DO !!

I won’t even admit to how much time went into these floor pans, as I mentioned in an earlier post… it’s worth it later on when it comes time for repairs !

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/FloorPan05mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

I have a few ideas for the interior layout, these keep changing once I’ve over come one problem & create a new one.

I want to be able to ( easily ) reach all the controls and not have any of the levers in my way while bouncing around the Rocks !
Not an easy task when you need FOUR (4) Control levers to drive this Crawler !!

My solution was to cable drive ALL levers, giving more flexibility for mounting.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/ShiftAsy02mail.jpg

1st Lever: Transmission Control - I have a B&M ProStick which is a straight “Bolt On” item or so would think.

2nd Lever: This is were is starts to gets interesting… I have the Mad Rooster Double T-case Kit, I need to shift the NP231 for my Hi/Low Range.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/ShiftAsy03mail.jpg

The center Lever run down the drivers side tunnel to the NP231 shift plate.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/ShiftAsy06mail.jpg

3rd Lever: The second T-Case D300 will be run as a “Twin Stick” Four Wheel Hi/Low
4th Lever: D300 - Front & Rear Wheel Low.

The twin stick is a little tricky for which levers activate Hi/Low – Front/Rear, this WILL be clearly marked on the panel once it’s installed ;)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/ShiftAsy04mail.jpg

[Kraqa]

love the shifters.

[desertCJ]

Nice job on the shifters:) The whole project looks like it's coming along nicely as well.

[butch6924]

Where did you source your cables and what lengths did you go with. I'm working on a similar project for a TJ. By similar I mean the dual cases shifted with cables.

[desertCJ]

Where did you source your cables and what lengths did you go with. I'm working on a similar project for a TJ. By similar I mean the dual cases shifted with cables.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=15059
and
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=10519&langId=-1&top=Y

Should be able to put together what you need:)

[Double Trouble]

Where did you source your cables and what lengths did you go with. I'm working on a similar project for a TJ. By similar I mean the dual cases shifted with cables.

I got my cables from a Drive Shaft company that also supplies Heavy Truck Parts, cables are rated for 250 pounds push/pull force. This is a bit of overkill but I get them a good price.
The Jegs cables ( DesertCJ posted ) look great.


The length used were two (2) 76" cables for the D300 and a 72" for the NP231.
Be carefull with the length, I have NO interior at all so I just cut holes anyplace I wanted to run the cables.
You may require longer cables to route around Heater Box or ??? who knows what.
These cables aren't that flexible, they need a large bend to work smoothly.

[Double Trouble]

My idea for the 3 Lever T-Case Controls turned out Great, again BIG THANKS to Cuz Rob !! My idea but he built it.

New Problem :( the shifter for the Transmission either hits the T-case levers or is too far back for me to reach properly.

The interior layout would be sooooooo much easier if I WASN'T SO DARN TALL !! ( for the records I am 6' 4 & 3/4" TALL ).

We spent one evening trying to figure out the easiest way around this ???
Remember that this is a Rebuild, I am trying my best to work with what is already there, not build new parts each & every time.
I know, there are times when it's better to scrap the old & build new but I leave this as my last alternative.

While moving the shifter around I joked about having it partially over the seat pointing towards me but to make a box with compound angles is Very Difficult !

Rob & I came up with this simple fix, it's strong and was too simple to make, fits perfect :)

A few flat plates cut at the correct angles and two pieces of rod welded to form a SOLID mount.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/ShiftAsy09mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/ShiftAsy11mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/ShiftAsy08mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

Quick Word of Advise...

... TEST FIT EVERYTHING FIRST !!!

I bought a Very Well built D300 ( every upgrade installed ), I put it aside for now & used my old D300 for fitting.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/D3004to1mail.jpg

Why get the new D300 all dirty while grinding & welding ?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0025mail.jpg

To finish off the T-Case Levers ( they need to be angled to the right a bit, not straight up ) I decided to drop in the new D300.
Who wants to lift up a rusty old case when I have a nice clean one ready to go.

I installed the clock ring/Mad Rooster Flange Plate on the new D300 and lugged it over, lifted it up in place, slid it onto the output shaft of the NP231 ???
It stopped 1/2" short of closing against the NP231 ???

WHAT NOW ??? Okay lower back down, check if it was hanging up on anything ?
It wasn't... the shaft is in correctly ? Yes !

Then it hits me ... the new 300 has the AA input shaft so we measure the O.D. length and I.D. Spline length.
It's longer Outside & Shorter Inside !! :(
After a quick search in the AA website, the input was designed to be used with a clocking ring so that you have more spline overlap when you space the case back for the ring.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/D300Input01mail.jpg

You can see that the shaft fits deeper into the stock D300 input below.
If the AA shaft had a deeper spline it would have fit okay.
The Mad Rooster Kit was designed to work with the stock input. It fits perfectly and uses ALL the spline of the stock input !!
The only difference between the stock input and AA is the length ( nothing else ), we measured spline depth and thickness.

The AA adapter is only good for use with a FAT clock ring that adds unwanted length to MY drive line.

What now... cut the shaft or change the input ?
Cutting the shaft will make it weaker ( not good ).
The length is just perfect for fit with the stock input.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/DoublerShaftmail.jpg

I have the stock input, USE IT !!
With the Mad Kit Design it will have the same strength because it uses all the spline that is available.

This should be an easy fix, the stock input popped right out, but... of course not the AA input because that case has the 4:1 KIT !!

Excuse me while I step out around the back of my shop and CUSS Uncontrollably for a little while...
... Okay, I'm back & much better now :)

It looks like I may be able to move the center gears to allow enough room for removal of the input.
I am going to call the guy who built this first before I try it ?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/D300Input03mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

Sorry, I've been tied up with little odds & ends getting ready for paint.
More pics and build info coming soon !!
DB

[Double Trouble]

Finally back to my build...

I resolved my T-Case problems by swapping in the original D300 input ( more work than I expected but this whole project has been like this ;)… hope it will stand up to the abuse ? I think it will !!

Before I get to the final finishing touches, I wanted to test the suspension too make absolutely sure the larger tires won’t rub or touch, my track bar won’t hit the Radiator !! etc…

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/JustChecking06mail.jpg

… well, looks great ! Everything Clears and I can move onto finishing all the little brackets & tabs &… ( why is it that all these small items take SO MUCH TIME ??? ).

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/JustChecking04mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/JustChecking03mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

I am at the end of my list of “ Things to do prior to Paint”, the body panels are now “Bolt On” previously riveted, I added a mounting plate to add on a spare tire carrier ( might try some longer trips away from the safety of my trailer ?).

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/JustBefore04mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/JustBefore06mail.jpg

Late Saturday after noon, no one available to help out so slowly I get the axle removed with a forklift. Luck for me my spray both is HUGE !!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/JustBefore15mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/JustBefore19mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

It’s Sunday morning, early & Very Cold !! Thank God, my friend Peter & Daryl came to help me finish prepping & paint. I couldn’t have got it done in one day without them !!
THANKS GUYS J

Peter has more experience painting than I do so…, he grabbed the gun and went to it.
A quick light coat of primer, then later on followed by a standard ( single component ) Silver Metallic BASF paint. Afterwards Peter mentioned ( Base/Clear ) would have been easier and better for overall finish. I went this way for less hassle measuring and mixing paint/reducer/hardener… Oh Well, you never do stop learning !

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/JustAfter01mail.jpg

I lost my painter after lunch ( plans with the family ), so it’s my turn to spray… what a mess this is going to be. Actually it didn’t turn out that bad, Daryl & I cleaned up the axles, while the chassis was being painted. A quick squirt and they’re done, now the tricky part to masked up the body tub and get the Blue Colour that all the panels will be.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/JustAfter04mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/JustAfter08mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

For the end of a long Sunday, we managed to get the chassis back onto my hoist and place the axles underneath. The last part of this rebuild is the suspension, once I’ve replace bushing and rebuild the heims it’s going all back together !

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PaintedonHoist01mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PaintedonHoist04mail.jpg

[rckjeep98]

Dana 300's are fairly stout stock, I'd worry about that 3 pinion planetary in the NP231. Do you have any plans to swap it with 6 pinion? You can pull the 6 pinion out of 241 and some 231C HD's

[desertCJ]

Dana 300's are fairly stout stock, I'd worry about that 3 pinion planetary in the NP231. Do you have any plans to swap it with 6 pinion? You can pull the 6 pinion out of 241 and some 231C HD's

I haven't hurt the 3 pinion planetary behind a 5.0 V8, I think they will be fine behind a 4.0 6cyl. That is after all the factory application for them.

[Double Trouble]

Dana 300's are fairly stout stock, I'd worry about that 3 pinion planetary in the NP231. Do you have any plans to swap it with 6 pinion? You can pull the 6 pinion out of 241 and some 231C HD's

Your idea is great but I don't have a 241 or the 231C HD, not that easy to find ( possible future upgrade ).

For now these are my thoughts:

This Mad Rooster Kit is new to me but the NP231 I know well !! From my experiences to date, I haven't seen the planetary fail or the casting around that section ? I've seen many variations of broken 231's did a few my self too !

The Mad Kit gives extra support to the 231 housing which will not flex as much keeping the planetary gears running true to the outer ring gear. I believe this will hold up under heavy load.

I am getting closer to completing this build, once it's done ( and the weather warms ups)... I am going to give this Crawler a GOOD THRASHING !!

I'll write up... how things hold up ?

[PRBJeepin]

looks realy good..makes me wanna build something close to it

[rckjeep98]

I suppose the only time you would really worry about the 3 pinion planetary is if you were running two 231 t-cases. The second t-case would be more prone to failure. But then again Klune-V make underdrives and I've never heard of anyone grenading their 231. Your rig is badass though

[moneypit94]

who are the seats made by? sweet build by the way

[Double Trouble]

who are the seats made by? sweet build by the way

Thanks !

The seats are a cheapy set from Driver FX, if you look back in my build they were red fabric.
The grey you see is actually covers, they aren't easy to take off but do fit well and are easier to clean than fabric !

How comfortable they are for a day of Crawling ??
I'll find out soon enough, if they are not then more money goes into a set of buckets !!

[ProJunkRacing]

updates?

[Double Trouble]

As I mentioned in above posts... I have been so bogged down with little things that aren't worthy of photos & explanations ( well maybe a little explanation ).

While rebuilding I "tack/spot" welded my parts on to the frame.
When I did the final welds some pieces warped with the heat and needed to be drill out or trimed or etc...

Set backs like the D300 Input Shaft, seat belts not long enough, steering cooler relocate... I will be commenting on these once I get all the rest of my parts painted and fitting this mess ALL back together.

Thanks for asking, tonight it's suspenion back in, this weekend engine & trans... try to have it running for the end of March.

[Double Trouble]

Wow ! It feels good to finally begin putting this thing back together !! Didn't get as far as wanted to this weekend but still better than nothing.

I was starting to drag my ass along thinking it would never end, there are several things I now see that I would like to rework but that is going to far for this scale of project.
It's a low buck rebuild/restore, not an all out competition "Go For Broke" buggy.

The suspension rework/rebuild was very minor, repair brackets, replace bushings easy fix... painting it was more difficult !

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PaintedAssy02mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PaintedAssy01mail.jpg

Here it is as a Rolling Chassis, now parts are starting to fall into place quickly...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PaintedAssy04mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PaintedAssy03mail.jpg

[bp95yj]

man it really looks good. What is your planned date for the whole vehicle to be completed?

[Tizzledustin]

Looking very sick!!!

[Double Trouble]

man it really looks good. What is your planned date for the whole vehicle to be completed?


Thanks, I am trying to have it finished for the end of March.
I am losing this shop space, lucky plans are a little behind schedule so I have more time to work on my Crawler but I have to get out of here soon !

[Double Trouble]

I have soooooooo many parts lying around my work area, it's a little stressfull trying to decide what to do first ?

My main concern for now is get the main components in, the Heavy Stuff that I need a forklift to install.

For now a Stock 92 YJ 4.0 - HO bolted to a 99 TJ Transmission.
( Wish I had the time or energy to wash it down & paint, but I am behind schedule & I might swap the engine next winter with a stroker 4.5 ? )

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/EngineIn01mail.jpg

Before the engine goes in I needed a better mount.
Figures ( on a weekend ) I have no tubing in my shop that fits the bushing I have !!
Did find larger tube so into the machine shop to boar it out/ cut to width, two plates, a little weld... now I have the Mount Welded to the engine lift block I made earlier.

I don't think I'll ever have to worry about these ;)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/MyMotorMount03mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

I am in shock, I Finally bought something for this Cralwer project that is direct fit, no mods and is light weight !

The original owner/builder of this Jeep kept the Custom Aluminum Fuel Cell to use in his new Chassis, lucky for me it didn't fit.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/FuelCell01mail.jpg

This is just PERFECT exactly what I wanted/needed...
Thanks Chris !

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/FuelCell02mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

Coming out great, what is the plan for the tank\cell location?

Finally, I can answer your question.. see above post !

[Double Trouble]

I have been too busy lately to document & photograph the last part of this build... ( here is a quick update ):

Managed to get the engine/trans. in & start hooking up EVERYTHING !!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/DrvSide24mail.jpg

All the work prior helped this go back together nicely but there is always little set backs that ruin a nights work...
... like: don't have the right size hose or fittings, were are those bolts that I put aside for this part ??

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/Coolers17mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

The rads & fan dropped in okay, funny that an AC-Delco Rad Hose fit better than a Gates hose.
Why is it that each manufacturer has to change the shape of the hoses ?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/Rad14mail.jpg

I want use up as much of the YJ parts as possible to keep the overall cost down so...
... used the stock YJ overflow tank, it snuck right into that spot with a few simple tabs welded in.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PassSide18mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

The steering setup was expensive but for a Crawler ( worth it !! )...

PSC steering pump, YJ pump wouldn't fit because I changed the intake from the 92 YJ to the 99 TJ, bought brackets from a 99 and still found that the YJ pump wouldn't fit.
It wasn't worth the cost to buy a TJ pump when the PSC one performs better for not much more money.

The reservoir is thanks again to my cousin Rob, it's made of 3" exhaust pipe with flanges welded top and bottom.
Nice size and holds more oil than PSC's.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/SteeringComp01mail.jpg

The steering orbitral is in and plumbing done...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/SteeringComp02mail.jpg

The cylinder lines flow nicely to the drivers side, I hope there is enough length when I reach full flex on the Trails ??

Still have to finish adjusting the front end links and get the right size bolts for them !!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/Steeringhoses27mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

I had this idea for the dash ( again using up stock YJ parts )...
... not sure if I like but it will work for now !

It was very easy using the stock YJ harness, plug in away I go with all the gauges ready to Rock !!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PaintedDash02mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PaintedDash01mail.jpg

[Double Trouble]

*** Video Clip*** Testing my steering !!

Having a bit of trouble getting this video clip to work...
... hope this one is okay, should have a better one soon ;)

Click here to watch DT-Crawler-Steering-test (http://media.putfile.com/DT-Crawler-Steering-test)

[FatMeats12]

DT,

what radiator,fan, and shroud did u use on the motor? looks like u made the shroud? Did u get you get all your hydro stuff from psc?

nice build looks good:smokin:

[n0mad]

Nice!!! I might have a new favorite rig, very clean... that canister is *bling*

You actually made the YJ gauges look really nice, I thought that'd be impossible.

[Double Trouble]

DT,

what radiator,fan, and shroud did u use on the motor? looks like u made the shroud? Did u get you get all your hydro stuff from psc?

nice build looks good:smokin:

Thanks, the last part of this build is really beating me up !!

Rad, is a stock replacement 92 YJ.
Fan is SPAL 16" high performance series ( there is an extreme performance but it's not a sealed motor, this Crawler will get wet in Ontario Forest runs !!)
Fan Shroud is 1/8" plate with the ends bent outwards to make it more rigid. There is only a partial outward lip because, I started off wanting to use a rad that had more cores and not as wide but it didn't fit so I had to extend the shroud with a another plate to fit stock YJ.

That reminds me... I have to hook some wires up to this fan soon before I forget ;)

I Did forget to mention the only PSC part is the Pump, my cuz Rob made the steer cyl., links, Reservoir and Mounting for the steer cylinder. The orbitral is made by Eaton and is matched to the steer cyl. specs.

[Double Trouble]

Nice!!! I might have a new favorite rig, very clean... that canister is *bling*

You actually made the YJ gauges look really nice, I thought that'd be impossible.

Thanks !! not too much bling, I do have a bit more to add.
Just wait until you see the engine bay finished and the body panels installed.

The dash still needs a few control switches then it's done !
The stock gauges worked out perfect, 2 plugs and everything is hooked up, doesn't get much easier than that.

[BlueAngel]

It's turning out great! Congrats for a fellow Ontarian :)

[4x4not]

The build is looking awesome! Keep up the good work and can't wait to see it out of the shop and on the trail!

[yuppiedood]

I feel your pain on the height thing in the jeep. I'm 6'4" as well and hit my head on the rollbar at least once a trip.

Nice build!

-Russ

[Double Trouble]

It's turning out great! Congrats for a fellow Ontarian :)

Hey Thanks ! It will be Trail ready soon...

I sent you an e-mail through your web site, never heard back ?
Hope we meet up on the Trails this summer.
DB

[BlueAngel]

Hey Thanks ! It will be Trail ready soon...

I sent you an e-mail through your web site, never heard back ?
Hope we meet up on the Trails this summer.
DB

Oops, sorry DB I never got it, or got deleted by mistake? I sent you a PM.

[Double Trouble]

This has to be the worst time of year to finish up a project !
The weather in Toronto is perfect for wheeling and I'm still running behind schedule, oh well.

Progress has been slow, finally figured out my brake system, electric lock for rear - manual ball valve for front as a park brake lock.

I'll have pics coming soon for the final stages.

Not sure how to run Double Trouble for the first runs ?

Should I...

... take it easy, break it in and slowly see what it can do ?

or

... should I THRASH IT !!

Wonder what you guys here on Pirate think ?
Let me know !
DB

[BlueAngel]

This has to be the worst time of year to finish up a project !
The weather in Toronto is perfect for wheeling and I'm still running behind schedule, oh well.

Progress has been slow, finally figured out my brake system, electric lock for rear - manual ball valve for front as a park brake lock.

I'll have pics coming soon for the final stages.

Not sure how to run Double Trouble for the first runs ?

Should I...

... take it easy, break it in and slowly see what it can do ?

or

... should I THRASH IT !!

Wonder what you guys here on Pirate think ?
Let me know !
DB

It's good weather now, but the rain is starting tomorrow.

I haven't taken mine to a shakedown run yet, still have to work on the hydro assist steering this weekend, but I also want to get it out on the trails!

From previous experience, after a major re-build, I like to take it easy on the first run, there's always small bugs that needs to be addressed.

[desertCJ]

I've been in your shoes and it's always a good idea to get a feel for the rig before you push it to the limits. So, after one trouble free run.....LET HER RIP!

[Jeepindave]

Never built anything near that serious before, but after I got done swapping a twinstick dana 300 and fullsize alxes in my YJ, I gave her hell on the trail for the first two hours, broke a ujoint strap, and didn't have any spares. Had to spend the rest of the day riding shotgun in a buddy's rig. SUCKED. I like the take it easy for the first run, then let her rip idea! IMHO

[Double Trouble]

Good Points made !!

I am just sooooooooooooo frustrated that I would LOVE to take it out and go Ballistic but... I'll take it easy for the first few runs.

Thanks for feed back.
David B.

[PRBJeepin]

anything new??

[Double Trouble]

anything new??

New ? Yes/No... I have taken care of many little odds & ends.

Still having a problem bleeding my Front Brakes, can't find anyone close by me that I can borrow a power bleeder & don't want to speend more money on tools that I'll only use once in Blue Moon ( many other expenses this summer !! )

We've been out wheeling with the wifes Rubicon and managed to break a few parts in that so... that's robbed a bit of time away from the Crawler.

I hope to have it out on the Trail for Beggining of July.
Too Bad we have to work for a living, not enough time to PLAY !!

Anyway, thanks for asking... I'll start a new thread once Double Trouble is done. Can't wait to show this Rig Off !

DB

[Double Trouble]

I know it's been a while but here is Double Trouble, the first time under it's own Power !! ( Rear Drive Shaft Only )

Just checking for leaks & clearance issues if any ?
So far one small leak ( lose clamp on Trans Cooler ).

Double Transfer Case has this Crawling slower than I thought it would !!
The only major problem with my first shake down run was a hesitation in the engine ( under hard throttle ).
Found the cause... Lack of FUEL !!
Stuffs too DAM expensive now ;)

Anyway, video coming soon - once I get the front shaft in and finish up the panels and remember to paint the front grill... it will be off to the Trails for Real Test Run !!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0011mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0013mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0014mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0016mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0009mail.jpg

[rockinjeep]

That is looking good, congrats so far!!!
Mike-

[Bushwhacker]

:smokin:

[Double Trouble]

Thanks Guys !!

I didn't have anyone to take a video clip while it was outside, so I did this inside my shop on a rainy day ( figures ) looks bad but at least she runs.

Still have to finish the battery tie down, a little more electrical, vent tubes for the diffs & cases. The last bit is interior parts and it's ready !

Click here to watch Short-Spin-in-DT (http://media.putfile.com/Short-Spin-in-DT)

[Double Trouble]

Trying for first or second weekend of August to get in a little Shake Down Trail run close to home.
You never know what's going to happen on a rebuild like this ?

I know the suspenion & chassis are well built and have been pre-tested ;)
I just want to be sure of all the custom fabricated parts I made up, also the Double T-Case Setup & Drive Shafts.

I'll tell you this... it has a SHIT LOAD OF PULL in Double LOW.

I may have to upgrade the brake master ( currently corvette ), it's not enough to hold it when I am 2 Wheel Drive stopped in First Gear Double Low !
The whole chassis begins to twist to the right like it's going to flip it's self over !!

[offroadman83]

That beast is a work of art!!! I love the colors and everything about it!!! Awesome, Awesome, Awesome!!!!!:smokin: ------------Kyle

[Double Trouble]

That beast is a work of art!!! I love the colors and everything about it!!! Awesome, Awesome, Awesome!!!!!:smokin: ------------Kyle

Wow... thank you ! Thank You !! THANK YOU !!!

Just wait until I have the rest of the Body Panels on it and get the interior done... I have to find some grey roll bar padding ??
My head is not as Hard as it used to be ;)

Thanks again !
David B.

[offroadman83]

Believe me it is well deserved bro:smokin: ----------Kyle

[cacti]

How's this rig coming along??

[hazer]

That's a great build up Double Trouble.Hopefully we can get wheeling together sometime.
Jason

[Double Trouble]

How's this rig coming along??

Thanks for asking, I've been side tracked because...

... Double Trouble got Married in late Sept !!

My Wife came with two children, which are now mine and we share ALL Our Toys, well most of them ;)
They get my first attention, family & friends are more important than my hobby.

Soooo, it's been impossible to get the time to finish off this project.
Now that things have settled down a bit I can get back to the finishing touches.
Too bad the weather is getting cold, Quickly !!

It's cool that my Wife gave me enough space before the wedding to get a LOT of it done,
most people sell their projects because of wedding or to start a family.

We work hard and play harder as a Team !!
Future plans for Double Trouble is to become a 4 seater when the kids are old enough.
Money permitting Doubel Trouble II, single seater so Dad can really go OFF The JEEP END !!

[Double Trouble]

A bit more work done and a chance to drive it again a little harder ( still around the shop, no trails yet ).

Developed a F******G Ticky Sound when it's in gear ???
I had no one here with me to see where it was coming from, oh well... I'll grab a friend and check it out one night.

Here it is with more of the body panels, still have a few left to install but at least you get to see the front end...
... Yup those are SQUARE Lights !! :)

Can't make up my mind ROUND ? SQUARE ?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0025mail-1.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0023mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0020mail.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/HDavidB/PICT0033mail.jpg

[Jeepermat]

Looking awesome, great build
Nice shop!

[Double Trouble]

Finally getting back to finishing up my Build on Double Trouble.
Too Bad all the cold weather will keep it indoors until Spring !
Wish I was down South so it could go staright to the Trails !!