The 5" spring thread has spurred me to resurrect another "how tall" thread. i searched for the old one but can't find it :(

i'll go first.

rear springs: RTE 3" fronts, 220in/lb.
front springs: genuine "police" springs (supposedly good for 1~2"); around 150 in/lb rate
tires: 33's - 255/85x16 BFG's about half-worn
bolt-ons bumpers/winch/sliders: none.


bumper and sills:
=============
stock rangie front bumper: 27"
sills / slider: a bit over 18"
rear hitch reciever 21"

from the top body line to wheel centers:
==============================
front: 25"
rear: 27"

axle and underbelly clearances:
=======================
bottom of diff @32psi: 10"
axle tube: 13.5"
bottom of frame to ground @ t-case: 18"
bottom of downpipes/cats: 14" :eek: :(

after this little excercise i know what i should try to clean up ...

so - what are the specs on your rig? i'm interested to hear how different setups with what tires work out to for comparison.

92 RRC

rear springs: OME 781, approx. 2" + 1.5" spacers
front springs: OME 751, approx. 2" + 1" spacers
2" Body Lift
tires: Super Swamper SSR 285/75/16 (33.9" dia.), new
bolt-ons bumpers/winch/sliders: Front ARB and winch, RTE sliders, Homebrew rear bumper and swingout.

bumper and sills:
=============
stock rangie front bumper:
slider, ground to bottom of slider 22-3/4"
rear hitch reciever, ground to bottom of hitch 23-1/2"

from the top body line to wheel centers:
==============================
front: 27-1/4"
rear: 29-1/2"

axle and underbelly clearances:
=======================
bottom of diff @35psi: 10-3/4"
axle tube: 14-1/4"
bottom of frame to ground @ t-case: 18-3/4"
bottom of downpipes/cats: 15"

Suspension:
rear springs: Safari Guard 3" 320lb progressive 1" block
Front springs: Safari Guard 3" 265lb progressive
2" body lift
35" tyres @30psi

Bolt ons:

Custom front bumper w/ warn 9500lb winch
Custom rear bumper

Bumper and sills:
Front bumper:34" to top (bottom of grill) about 30" to bottom @ centerline
Rear bumper:34.5" to top (1" below bottom of tailgate) about 32.5" to bottom @ centerline
Receiver hitch:32.5" to bottom (custom in bumper)
(sorry but my bumper locations have no bench mark relation to stock)
Sliders:22.5" to bottom

body line to wheel center:
front: 28.5"
rear: 29.5"

axle and underbody:
bottom of diff at 30psi:(shit,just realized this should all be the same if this is a comparision):11.25"
axle tube: 14.75"
bottom of frame @ t-case: 21"
bottom of downpipes / cats: No cats. Headers and custom exhaust exiting through side of rear bumper. All tucked up at least 4 or 5 inches into frame.

Matt Browne
Overland Engineering

Interesting... I'll take some measurements from Big-ass when I'm out at the hsop tomorrow. I wonder how it measures up.

I know this isnt worth much but I will have around 26"-27" clearance at the lowest point on my frame/body.

Suspension/ Body lifts are a bit overated and can create other problems aside from the obvious ones related to centre of gravity. I think it probably is more important to have a smooth snag free underbelly than lots of ground clearance. Land Rovers have a relatively poor ground clearance to overall height ratio when compared to trucks such as the Toyota Hilux for example.
The almost vertical styling of the bodywork on Rovers also create clearance problems between the roof and the scenery such as trees, boulders etc in tight off camber situations.
Bill.

92 RRC
Front: Stock springs plus jack stands.
Rear: Stock springs plus (minus??) flat tire.

Haven't measured clearance or bumpr height recently, but suffice to say, the front is currently a lot higher than the rear.

AlanB - can you post pics of your rear bumper and tire carrier?

92 RRC
Front: Stock springs plus jack stands.
Rear: Stock springs plus (minus??) flat tire.

Haven't measured clearance or bumpr height recently, but suffice to say, the front is currently a lot higher than the rear.

AlanB - can you post pics of your rear bumper and tire carrier?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=430209

I know this isnt worth much but I will have around 26"-27" clearance at the lowest point on my frame/body.

How did you do this? I have around 6in of lift, 39.5s, a lifted t-case and modified crossmember and a flat plate and I am at 22-23in depending on what I run the rear at. You running 44's and 8in of lift??

Wow...that is awesome Alan. Thanks!!

How did you do this? I have around 6in of lift, 39.5s, a lifted t-case and modified crossmember and a flat plate and I am at 22-23in depending on what I run the rear at. You running 44's and 8in of lift??

This was a calculated figure, and not exact.
I'll have ~8.5" of lift.. I think... I have no idea what it was over stock when I pulled it apart. I know I went 6" over where it was though. And I'll be running 39.5's.

When I get it all back together, I'll have an exact figure. I was actually looking at it today, thinking I might try and drop it an inch or so from where I have it sitting currently.

I'll have ~8.5" of lift.. I think...
:eek: Thats scary. How are the drive line angles? I want to see this. Also what axles are you running. You'll have to have the entire wheels out side the fenders for that thing not to take a roll on a side tilt.

:eek: Thats scary. How are the drive line angles? I want to see this. Also what axles are you running. You'll have to have the entire wheels out side the fenders for that thing not to take a roll on a side tilt.

Angles should be alright. Front axle is forward about 3.5" rear is pushed back about 7." D60/D70 nice and wide.

I'll be starting a thread dedicated to my build soon(there's already a few pics floating around). I don't want to hi-jack this thread.

235/85/r16 BFG A/Ts on stock '92 RRC. I've never measured it. Completely impractical for driving in anything adverse other than deep snow, but they fill up the wheel wells nice!

Angles should be alright. Front axle is forward about 3.5" rear is pushed back about 7." D60/D70 nice and wide.

I'll be starting a thread dedicated to my build soon(there's already a few pics floating around). I don't want to hi-jack this thread.
Should be a pretty cool. I'm interested to see the write up.

How did you do this? I have around 6in of lift, 39.5s, a lifted t-case and modified crossmember and a flat plate and I am at 22-23in depending on what I run the rear at. You running 44's and 8in of lift??

this is why i wanted to see some actual measurements. keep the stats rolling in - this is good stuff. i think we can learn more about the different setups with some actual figures to work with and compare.

235/85/r16 BFG A/Ts on stock '92 RRC. I've never measured it. Completely impractical for driving in anything adverse other than deep snow, but they fill up the wheel wells nice!

naaaaahhhh - bullshit! I wheeled like this with 235/85 tracedges for two years - also on stock rangie springs. you need to cut about 2" from the inside fender surface and they will tuck fine. the fronts should be fine as is.

All you need is to throw in a truetrac in the rear and disco I 24 spl shafts and start picking off lifted jeeps and discos at the ORV areas.

said stock vehicle on 32's - note the daylight on top of the PS rear tire. that was with the old woodheads and swaybar still attached. you can do a lot of wheelin' in your rig just like it sits.

http://www.speakeasy.org/~thefains/img/roverPics/stock_springs_with32s.jpeg