While changing my thermostat on my 4runner one of the bolts snapped while taking it out. I have broken two easy outs on it already. What do I do next? Should I drill and re-tap it in place, take it out and do it, or replace the whole lower intake manifold with one from a junk yard?

Thanks,
Sterling

I would drill it, if u do it right, and get lucky, the old threads will be ok.

I got real lucky on my POS 79 by drilling it out. Unfortunatly I didn't have a bolt that fit it, so a bigger one went in loaded with JB Weld :D Not a leak yet in at least 6 mounths

Assuming you havent broke the easy out off inside the bolt, I have had good results with a reverse rotation drill bit. They are made for that perpose (I think) . Its a drill bit that drills in reverse. Just center punch a mark on the bolt and start drillin often the bolt starts to back out before you drill all the way throug.

I broke both bolts on my '85 and one on my '88 trying to change the T-stat. Easy-outs were useless. I ended up drilling them out and tapping them for slightly larger bolts. It sucks when a 10-minute job turns into a several-hour job!

Unfortunately I snapped the second easy out inside the bolt and now have to drill that too. I think I'm going to have to tap'em. Sucks. Dtoy, you're not kidding about this 10 minute to 3 day thing. I thought I'd be done a while ago. I have some other electrical prob to fix too and was just doing the t-stat while I was trying to figure out what's going on. Can't diagnose anything with a car that won't turn on.

Life's a bitch!

Sterling
1985 4Runner (If it would stop breaking, I could start upgrading)

Originally posted by getout
Unfortunately I snapped the second easy out inside the bolt and now have to drill that too. I think I'm going to have to tap'em. Sucks. Dtoy, you're not kidding about this 10 minute to 3 day thing. I thought I'd be done a while ago. I have some other electrical prob to fix too and was just doing the t-stat while I was trying to figure out what's going on. Can't diagnose anything with a car that won't turn on.

Life's a bitch!

Sterling
1985 4Runner (If it would stop breaking, I could start upgrading) Good luck on drilling the EZ out, especially since you are going to have to do it by hand and not with a drill press those suckers are hardened steel. What I did when I broke the one on my Honda was to drill it the size recommend size for the 10mm tap and just ran the tap through the hole so I could use the same size bolt.:eek:

friend of mine showed me how to get the broken E-Z out from the broken stud on my MG's T-stat.
He took a pin punch, a small sledge hammer, a few well placed quick blows to the side of the E-Z out, no more E-Z out.
What was better was the stud loosened up after all that abuse. I don't know about doing that method to an aluminum part though.
Maybe if you are real careful.
Danny

ouch-

easy outs are super hard steel-
they are impossible to drill w/ out a carbide tipped bit.
they will shatter if you can get to it from the side as mentioned above.

if you get it out, and insert can be installed to replace the damaged threads. KeenSert makes a solid replacement or HeliCoil makes a coiled wire insert. If leakage is an issue, the KeenSert is a solid bodied insert that would be easily sealed on installation.

KeenSert Info (http://www.fastenersdirect.com/p_keensertsinsertsstuds.htm)

these are the ONLY inserts we use on aircraft parts that require an insert in aluminum or magnesium parts. I have used several on my truck to replace stripped exhaust stud holes-

later

I always get lucky drilling the bolt almost the whole way out and then using the square easy outs from Sears. I do it all the time that way at the shop without too much bitching.....:rolleyes: