Heres the specs i gots me a 75 power wagon and the stock steering on the d44 is smashed to rat shit, so I'm thinking just throw it away and gets me a chev 2wd box and pump and do a cross over and possibly a behind the axle tie rod as well
Heres where you guys come in I need some pics and ideas so i dont screw this up, oh yeah I will not be using heims cause it got to be street legal.

use a 2wd dodge box- it will bolt right up... just make sure to brace it!!

A 2wd Saginaw power steering box is the same part # for '70s Dodge pickups and GM/Chevys '68-76. And I'm pretty sure that the only thing that changed for GM in '77-? was they went from flare to o-ring fittings. I've got a box, a pump, and a big cooler - and a long-stroke York to incorporate into the pump mounting bracket. I've got GM flattop D44 knuckles and large-bearing spindles. I've got some ideas, but hard to photograph those. Still missing some parts. Those parts I do have are now buried in a mountain of rubble due to moving my garage last night. Perhaps, someday, I'll find them again and get this thing underway. In the meantime, I'm thinking about arms. OTT makes a beauty, and they're damn proud of it too. I like the photo of Bob Roggy's arm on BillaVista's web site, but not sure if he's ready to make more or not. Probably I'll get his; while the tie rod isn't behind the axle, it's up plenty high. Any comments on frame crossmember interference on these, or isn't it a problem like the GM's?

Here's the single best collection of information on this I've seen: http://billavista.tripod.com/Steeri...eringIndex.html

thanks for the info Lloyd but your link isnt working:(

Sorry. Try this: http://billavista.tripod.com/Steering/Research/steeringresearch.html
or here: http://billavista.tripod.com/Steering/Index/SteeringIndex.html
Also, Parts Mike has a good collection of stuff: http://www.partsmike.com

I may also use his arms and parts to do the inverted-T. I still want to hear from someone about that crossmember though.

You could also do a SEARCH of the Dodge section, and come up with a subject that has been beat to DEATH!!:D

Unfortunately everything older than March 7, 2002 is now GONE due to the software change, so don't be surprised to see a lot of people asking the same old shit, and claiming to have done a search - they actually may have. Fortunately I have archived this topic; but the crossmember wasn't addressed as far as I can find; maybe this means it isn't an issue. If it'd be of interest, I can re-post that thread from my archive (text only).

Ok, I think you have the date wrong on the software change, by like 6+ months, but it doesn’t matter. Most of the X-over discussions where before that.

For the steering box, if you go to a yard and pull a box and steering shaft off a 2wd dodge, it will bolt right up.

Some 4x Dodge boxes will also work. If on your current set up the sector shaft (where the pitman arm is mounted) points down towards the ground, you can use that box. Just remove the cast bracket, and mount the box straight to the frame. The holes are already there, since 2wd and 4wd frames are identical stampings.

It is highly recommended that you replace the factory steering shaft with a Borgeson or comparable replacement. The factory ones, wear out in under 10K miles, and that’s where the majority of the slop is, in the factory setup.

Pitman arm is standard Saginaw spline, so you just have to hunt around to find one that fits your lift. The factory late model 94-01 Dodge 4x is ok, but can be a little short (which will affect your turning radius). Once you get your steering arm on the passenger knuckle, you can figure out what length pitman you need for the correct TR. You may need to trim or modify the factory crossmember for clearance, depending on what pitman arm you end up with.

As far as the steering arms, I would personally go with normal crossover/histeer. While behind the axle is cool, it’s not really necessary. If you’re hitting your histeer, you have other things to deal with! :D Just get some flat top knuckles and some arms, and be done with it. You can use Chevy 4x draglink ends for the draglink, and you will have all the travel and strength you’ll ever need in the linkage.

Don’t worry about the pump. The factory PS pump is a Saginaw unit and will work perfectly with any box you chose, no need to replace it unless it’s worn out.

The one thing you HAVE to do, is to brace the frame. Crossover steering puts so much sideload stress on the frame that it’s guaranteed to crack. A simple brace from the back of the steering box bolts to the passenger side of the front xmember will be plenty, and save you a ton of headaches on the trail.

The one thing to remember is, that no matter how much shite you have to go through to do the conversion, it will only take one second of driving (on or off road) to make it ALL worth it!

Thanks a bunch guys thats exactly the info I was hopeing for I will be changing to a chev 2wd box and pump (current one is on the way out)
I went out and took some mesurements and i think I will need to fab a new cross member, and ditch my pre runner skid plate,and I currently have flat top kunckles so thats not a problem other than that i sholud be good to go once I fab my arms so I'll let you guys Know how my progress goes
Cheers Dale!

Thanks, Patman. You're right, I looked again and there were several more pages of stuff I'd missed, going back to October...:emb4: D'oh! Been trying to get a house built, moved, etc. and my brain doesn't work so well all the time.

I've got a manual 4wd box now (shaft points left) and the pitman arm on it has about 4" offset, so it looks like a good candidate. Are the indexing splines going to screw me on using that arm?

Originally posted by Lloyd
I've got a manual 4wd box now (shaft points left) and the pitman arm on it has about 4" offset, so it looks like a good candidate. Are the indexing splines going to screw me on using that arm?

If the box you have has the shaft pointing left, it will NOT work. Using that box will make your steering backwards. If you mean that the Pitman arm is pointing left, but the sector shaft is pointing down, then it will work.

The indexing splines should be ok, if not, you can just take a file and cut some splines, so you can put it whereever.

Yeah, I know that the box won't work; I've already pulled a pump and box from a '75 Chevy 2wd. I seemed to remember reading something about that particular pitman arm in one of the old threads, but can't seem to find that archive now. Re-using the arm would be nice because I've already got those draglink ends, and can just cut a new tube. Good point on filing out the indexing splines.