Does anyone have pics of Mike Ladd's coil pivots? I am concidering removing my 5.5" WH coils and going with 3.5 BC coils and pivots.

Why????

No pics, but I've seen a few of them in action. Email Snowball (Mike Ladd), I'm sure he can send you a pic or 2.

To answer ARokCrwlr's question. With the stock set-up, as the axle drops, the coils tend to arc and bind. In theory, the coil pivots allow the coil to remain straight, allowing additional flex. I don't have first hand experience, yet! I'll be installing a pair in a couple of weeks to give them a try :)

mmmm then with that lift Mark you might as well order up some 37 boggers!

Mark, have you even tried out the wristed arm yet?? I don't think that you will need much more flex...........................unless of course you want me to come over again, and trim those pretty fenders of yours:D :D .....

They will rub, I can gaaarrruuntee it.........
But I can still borrow Ryan's Plasma cutter, we can cut those fenders in 30 seconds flat:flipoff2:

Brian--

Originally posted by Rubicrawler
No pics, but I've seen a few of them in action. Email Snowball (Mike Ladd), I'm sure he can send you a pic or 2.

To answer ARokCrwlr's question. With the stock set-up, as the axle drops, the coils tend to arc and bind. In theory, the coil pivots allow the coil to remain straight, allowing additional flex. I don't have first hand experience, yet! I'll be installing a pair in a couple of weeks to give them a try :)

I know the theory-I just don't believe it will make that much difference given the cost. Especially if you run a wristed arm. JMO

Originally posted by welndmn
mmmm then with that lift Mark you might as well order up some 37 boggers!

Oh yeah! I'd love some 37" boggers:) Soon, Grasshopper- very soon:smokin:

37s hah, i will follow your footsteps with my measly 33s :D

When a radius arm and panhard bar equipped coil spung axle droops, it will move down, back, and to the side all at the same time. This is caused by two diffrent arches in movement being created by the links. The coil has to flex in three diffrent positions just for a simple axle movement. The pivot allows the coil to simply extend and compress w/o any undue motion.

Okay, this is a good idea. Honistly, i dont see how you would 'gain' mutch flex with this set up. The winds on the coil only suck up a little bit of extra motion, and eliminating that, would give you a inch or two of extra articulation. Oh joy :rolleyes: Not worth the costs IMO. With the wristed set up, the coils will be giving all they have. So why even bother.

Thanks for the info guys. I just installed a set of extended arms and was thinking the pivots may help me a bit more.

You know what would be better than the coil pivots.....get like an S-10 balljoint and mount that to the radius arm...then drill one single hole in the coil cup and bolt it on.....that way you have 360* motion....Then you loose the coil bulge......then your coils will always look pertty :flipoff2:

OH screw it. The thing will work just fine with what I got. As for pretty, the new SX's I just bought are PRETTY!

What three movements? More like only two, side droop caused by one wheel drooping (axle tilt), and simple up and down movement. With long enough links (say 33"), the up and down shouldn't be much of a problem, especially with poly bushings at that pivot point. As for side droop the pivot would allow happy free motion. Without that pivot it would be killer for a coil, especially in a narrow axled vehicle like a samurai.

Feel free to shoot this full of holes. :flipoff2: At any rate, helping the coil a little bit is better than not at all, IMHO.

I plan on going with the lower end of the coil held sturdily in place with four edges and a bar bolted in the center of the cup. The upper end will slide over a bumpstop made from a tapered boat roller and will remain free to drop, until the limiting strap is hit. :smokin: Just like drop links... :D

What three movements? More like only two, side droop caused by one wheel drooping (axle tilt), and simple up and down movement. With long enough links (say 33"), the up and down shouldn't be much of a problem, especially with poly bushings at that pivot point. As for side droop the pivot would allow happy free motion. Without that pivot it would be killer for a coil, especially in a narrow axled vehicle like a samurai.

Feel free to shoot this full of holes. :flipoff2: At any rate, helping the coil a little bit is better than not at all, IMHO.

I plan on going with the lower end of the coil held sturdily in place with four edges and a bar bolted in the center of the cup. The upper end will slide over a bumpstop made from a tapered boat roller and will remain free to drop, until the limiting strap is hit. :smokin: Just like drop links... :D
You brought this thread back from the dead for that?
we were not talking about links here, Radius arms, They move different :D

I am simply digging for info to make sure these coil pivots work dandy before I fab and weld to my axle, not my radius arms. Why the hell would I put coils on my radius arms?? :confused: Did you??

Hey Mark, looks like we got a bright one here.

Yes the EB bottom coil bucket is bolted to the radius arms.

wasnt there a thread that discussed failures in coil pivots? or was that leaf spring rockers?

I am simply digging for info to make sure these coil pivots work dandy before I fab and weld to my axle, not my radius arms. Why the hell would I put coils on my radius arms?? :confused: Did you??
Ford made them like that for 15 years, you do realease your in the ford section right?

I am building a samurai-type weight solid axle buggy thingy, and I was just curious about the coil pivot idea.... From what I read, it would likely work on my 4-link setup. Now to figure out stuff regarding what type coils to use....

I did use ford shock TOWERS on my sammy.... :D Does this mean I finally belong???

pivots are there for 2 reasons... relax the coils and give you 1.75-2 inches of lift while still using a standard coil.... I tried a 7 inch coil and folded it in half. I know the wristed arms and bearing style fronts work great... I like ex arms and pivots. its all preference...its just simple

Mike-

You can use any jeep or ford coil since they both will fit the coil cups and retainers.

Don't know if it'll help but, Keith Jones at Proto Fab http://www.protofab4x4.com/index.html ran them on his Bronco forever. Maybe you could call him or shoot him an e-mail for more info and/or pics........Hans

Thanks guys for the info!!! I may run some wrecker springs, and have found that the MOOG coil catalogue can cross refence spring rate with size, length, and car type!!! A sampling can be found here:

[URL=http://www.classiccarsprings.com/springrates.html]

Of course, you need the catalogue to figure out what numbers mean what car.... I havn't managed to find that yet...

Do coil pivots allow the coil spring to buckle sideways under full compression, or does the bump stop tower help in any way???

I'll try to bug that other guy too, thanks!!

-M

The ones from bent and twisted pivot front and back rather than side to side. You don't need them to pivot side to side. I like them and they do the two jobs they were ment to do very well.