View Full Version : 110v GMAW to 220v
GoatSauce
01-19-2006, 01:46 PM
ok, boys,
Need a little help from the wiring wizards here...
Trying to convert a Lincoln 110v wire feed to a 220v. The plan is to use a 220 Stick welder as the power source. Just need to figure out how to get the 220 power source linked to the 110 wirefeed.
The 110 wire welder will still run gas regulators and the wire feed unit off 110. The power voltage to weld bigger metal will be the only 220 feed coming into the 110 unit, and this voltage (heat) will be adjusted on the 220 stick welder. The ground will also be used off the 220, when in use.
I would like to put the incoming 220 wiring on a switch, enabling me to still have 110 capacity (in case 220 is not avalible).
Wire size I expect to use for both power sources is .30
The reason for the conversion: Projects that require more heat, an unwillingness to drop $1300-$1700 for a new 220v wire feed welder, I already have the 110v welder I would like to convert, and it would make for a super cheap, 220v wire feed welder.:smokin:
What pitfalls should I watch out for?
CrustyJeep
01-19-2006, 01:55 PM
Not gonna help you wire it up, but don't you need a constant voltage power source?
GoatSauce
01-19-2006, 02:11 PM
The thought was to seperate the wiring within the 110v unit to operate the gas regulator and the wire feed off the 110. Then have a switch allowing the choice of 110 -or- 220 for welding heat.
THe 110 heat would continue to be regulated by the 110 unit, and if you were to choose 220 then this heat would be regulated off of the stick welder controls.
Travis Waldher
01-19-2006, 02:32 PM
what's the gun rated for?
CrustyJeep
01-19-2006, 02:48 PM
The thought was to seperate the wiring within the 110v unit to operate the gas regulator and the wire feed off the 110. Then have a switch allowing the choice of 110 -or- 220 for welding heat.
THe 110 heat would continue to be regulated by the 110 unit, and if you were to choose 220 then this heat would be regulated off of the stick welder controls.OK... But the MIG is a constant voltage machine, and the stick welder is constant amperage... I don't think it's going to work.
andyr354
01-19-2006, 03:40 PM
The stick welder AC or DC? if its AC forget it.
BumpyDodge
01-19-2006, 04:13 PM
I think you're missing the fundamentals. Like CrustyJeep mentioned...
You don't have a constant voltage (CV) source from the 220 stick welder. Stick welding is a constant current (CC) process - Mig is a constant voltage (CV) process. They're different welding processes with different desired power supplies. Please don't fry a perfectly good 110 machine.
My stick welder has auxillary 110 power outlets and has an optional CV tap to run a stand-alone wire feeder (Lincoln LN-7) but even that doesn't work too well. It lowers the 110v output power to the wire feeder motor if you go below "5" on the CV heat setting knob. It's only suitable for wire feed welding BIG projects where you're running maximum volts, like structural ironwork.
If you get a voltage sensing wire feeder (Lincoln LN-25) you can Mig to your heart's content with a CC power source (your stick welder) as long as it's DC capable.
BumpyDodge
01-19-2006, 04:21 PM
The thought was to seperate the wiring within the 110v unit to operate the gas regulator and the wire feed off the 110. Then have a switch allowing the choice of 110 -or- 220 for welding heat.
THe 110 heat would continue to be regulated by the 110 unit, and if you were to choose 220 then this heat would be regulated off of the stick welder controls.
110v Mig welder "heat" is the voltage control. Amps are a product of wire speed (not important to know exact number of amps while welding).
220v Stick welder "heat" is the amp control. Volts are a product of arc length. (not important to know exact number of volts while welding).
pmurf1
01-19-2006, 06:24 PM
What pitfalls should I watch out for?
I'd watch out for your cheap ass first off. :shaking: Why disassemble two working welders to make some cobbled together pile of shit that no one will want to use/buy/trade?
Pony up for a 220 wire feed if that's what you want. You can get a Miller 175 for under $800 shipped, a 210 for under $1300 shipped. Sell the arc welder for whatever money you can get out of it, you'll never want to use it after having a nice wire feed available.
GoatSauce
01-23-2006, 10:33 AM
Ok, Wizards...
Thanks for the info, now that I know this won't work, I will abandon my cheap-out mission and save up for the real deal...
GoatSauce
PAToyota
01-23-2006, 11:11 AM
I think you'll be a lot happier that way in the long run.
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