I'm looking to extend my wheelbase 2-3" at each end (also move the rear spring mounts ~3"). This should help with clearance and give me ~7" of length. I was researching the cherokee springs option, but the local shop recommended having a new top leaf made with the off-set center pin location and using the rest of my spring pack. I like this idea (I love the OME springs I already have) and its simple and cheep too (~$60 per leaf). I'm thinking of cutting the eyes off my top spring and using all the leafs with the new main spring. Why shouldn't I do this? I'll be going spring over on my CJ7 w/ Dana 60s and 38s. I'm looking for feedback and ideas.

Do a search for extended wheelbase and waggy springs. There was a huge post on this a while back.

I had waggy springs and MORE SR on my YJ that gave my over 5" of wheelbase extension. I currently have MJ rear springs on my yj but kept the same wheelbase.

Originally posted by The Rockslut
Do a search for extended wheelbase and waggy springs. There was a huge post on this a while back.

I had waggy springs and MORE SR on my YJ that gave my over 5" of wheelbase extension. I currently have MJ rear springs on my yj but kept the same wheelbase.

So your the one running MJ rears. Aren't they 56" long?
What specs to they have? width, rate?, offset. And how can a guy aquire a new set? (huh? huh?....sorry)

Yeah they are 56" long and so are F150 rear springs. The offset of the F150 springs is 7" if i am correct. The MJ offset was around 9" or so and I redrilled the main leaf 2". I have a hook up at a Jeep wrecking yard. If I were to do it again I would go get F150 springs and not redrill the main.
Both springs are 2.5" wide and I am not sure about rates.

Thanks Slut. I'd read about the waggy springs, but I was looking for other options too.

It all depends on how crazy you want to get with your rear frame rails.

I don't plan to extend my frame at all. I'm hoping I'll be able to move the rear spring mounts ~3" aft (to the end of the frame with the shackle mount reversed so the eye is to the rear). This relocation with new main leafs giving 2.5" of offset at the front and rear, I'll go from 94" to 102" of wheelbase. My goal is to keep this a simple and sturdy as possible. I'm a big fan of the K.I.S.S. principle. Also I'd like to maximise my aproach & departure angles.

Does any one have anything bad to say about the new main leaf idea? It will cost me $240 vs the 44044s (did I get that right) for ~$300. Anyone?

Newt, If I understand you correctly, You're talking about making your main leaf on your OME spring pack your second leaf and then having a (longer) main leaf made up. correct?
I don't see why it wouldn't work. Keep in mind that OME springs are made so that each leaf has its own arch and are designed to contact at the ends. So the new main leaf you have built should have less arch in it than your main leaf has now. follow me?
How long do you plan your springs will be?

I don't plan to change the overall spring length. I just want the centering pin to be shifted 2.5" off center (non-symetrical like the waggy front springs are). This should give me 5" more wheel base and really help with clearance at the front of the rear wheelwell and at the firewall/clutch linkage up front. I'm going spring over so one more leaf should work well (limit spring wrap) and I can always remove leafs. I don't like the idea of drilling my main leaf for the offset. I would think it would create a weak point. I also plan to reverse the rear axle shackle mount (eye to the rear) and relocate the fixed mount (using a YJ mount) for 3-4" more wheel base. As far as I can figure, it should all work great. My overall goal is to keep the lift kind of low (for a spring over) and see just how much tire I can make fit. It looks like 38s easy, maybe 39.5s.

I have mixed feelings about re-drilling the spring pack. I know some guys that have gotten away with it but, I also know guys that havn't. Personally I wouldn't do it.
I think you have better options.
If I where you I would look into Cherokee springs, they are 52" long overall and have a 24/28 offset. They are also designed for spring over. If you can push your rear shackle mount outboard 3" then move your solid mount ahead. the configuration should give you 2" more WB. You could redrill the perch for another inch.
(those measurements are approximate and for 1 side) you have the tape.
:D
The Waggy springs they are 47" overall and have a 22.5/24.5 offset.
I must be misunderstanding you. You said that you wanted to move each axle out 3" right? and you can move your shackle mounts 3". If you don't change the spring length, you'll need to move your solid mounts back as well 3". that moves your axle 3".
If you want a little more, drill the perch offset.

Looks like I'm confusing people. The idea that I'm looking for feedback on is having a new main leaf made which has the center pin offset 2.5". I'd add this to the top of my existing OME spring pack. I don't plan to change the overall length of the springs, just where the axle is located by it (the new main leaf will offset the axle 2.5"). My concern is that the now non-symetrical springs may eather be week or suseptable to spring wrap. I like the leaf packs that I have (in terms of flexibility and lift) and having one leaf made should be a good cheep way to modify the existing springs to move the axle 2.5" (total cost will be ~$250 for all 4). Does this make sence?

BTW, my current springs are 44.5" total (from center of eye to center of eye). So that makes them 22.25"/22.25" (eye to centering pin).

My new main leaf would be 45" total and 20"/25" (resulting in ~2.5" of offset - long side to the center of the jeep). The new main leaf would also match the arch of the current main leaf (which I plan to cut the eyes off of, and use as the new 2nd leaf).

Hopefully this helps clarify things.

Running the long side inboard in the rear makes you suseptable of wrap up. plan on a trac-bar.
Earlier you mentioned moving the shackle bracket 3" and that puts you in line for a longer spring, unless you move the solid mount as well.
I still can't see you getting 102" of wheelbase with that configuration, more like 99" 100 at the most. Unless of course you move the springs out board.

The new leaf at the front axle +2.5"
The new leaf at the rear axle +2.5"
Relocating the rear axle spring mounts +3"
Total +8"

Stock CJ7 94" +8" = 102"

I do plan to move both of the rear axle spring mounts (fixed end and shackle end 3" each).

Thanks for trying to decipher my ramblings. I'm hoping the fairly small center pin offset will not lead to excesive spring wrap, but I do plan to run a traction bar (some thing like the Sam's Offroad one). From what I've read, they are a very good idea for any spring over with flexable springs. My modified springs couldn't be any worse than the Cherokee springs for spring wrap, right? (24"/28" vs 20"/25") My long side would still be 3" shorter than the cherokee spring's.

You'll probably be OK. You had me scratching my head a few times but I think I'm on the same page.
Just to throw a monkey wrench in the works, If it where me and I was going to the trouble of moving spring mounts I would cash in on the advantages of a longer spring. Like I said though thats just me. :D Good luck with your project.
If you have any questions that you think I can help with, send me a PM.
Doc.

For the rear, I would have the new main leaf made 3" longer & leave the front mount where it is. Less work & you get a longer spring.