So... some friends and I are having a competition to see who can make it up Tank traps (the trail they use for the top truck challenge at hollister hills), the fastest (or at all) in a $700 vehicle. I have a line on an 88 Sami, that I think I can get for 4 or 500.

The guy says it runs, but won't pass smog, so it needs to be green stickered.

He also says that the clutch cable "needs to be re attached".. is this a common thing? Is it a quick thing that I can fix in his driveway before I buy it? Any guidance on this? What to look for? Maybe a page out of an FSM. I'd like to make sure thats really what it is before I tow the thing away. I've never touched a Sami, so I have no idea what I'd be lookin for.

Other questions...

How big of tires can I get on it if I Do a Spring Over? I have a sawzall, and I'm not afraid to use it. What size body lift can I do? Will I need to extend the brakelines? or will they be good enough for the lack of flex in stock springs?

I'd REALLY like to get some 35's under it, because tank traps is VERY deeply rutted on one side, and bigger tires help. I'd happily sacrifice turning radius if thats the only problem going to bigger tires. Whatcha think?

I'm probably going to end up with bald tires with the budget I have, so I'm thinking I might buy some old tire chains cheap (lots of yuppies in the area go to lake tahoe once and never use their chains again), weld a couple pairs together, and throw those on for traction :D

Of course, I'll lincoln lock it front and rear.

Think I have a chance?

lincoln locked , 35's and, stock sami axles, no tcase gears. You willnever get anywhere. you wont be able to steer, and the axles will snap quick, on top of that your clutch will be smoked sinc eyou have no gearing. $700?? no way hell case geras alone are 600 or so

lincoln locked , 35's and, stock sami axles, no tcase gears. You willnever get anywhere. you wont be able to steer, and the axles will snap quick, on top of that your clutch will be smoked sinc eyou have no gearing. $700?? no way hell case geras alone are 600 or so


It only needs to last about 30 minutes.. an hour if i'm unlucky :)

I'm not too worried about being able to steer.. for the most part, the rut guides your tires, and you don't do much steering anyways...

Your comment does make me wonder about wheelspin. Can that little teeny engine push 35's enough to get some wheelspin if the ground is snotty? How about 33's?

I'm thinking I might buy some old tire chains cheap, weld a couple pairs together, and throw those on for traction :D

Of course, I'll lincoln lock it front and rear.

Get pics...

Let me know how it works out.

It only needs to last about 30 minutes.. an hour if i'm unlucky :)

I'm not too worried about being able to steer.. for the most part, the rut guides your tires, and you don't do much steering anyways...

Your comment does make me wonder about wheelspin. Can that little teeny engine push 35's enough to get some wheelspin if the ground is snotty? How about 33's?

No way its going to work without gearing changes. The only way that little engine does anything is by gearing it way down. With 35's it will barely be driveable on the street much less off-road and charging a hill climb.

I don't think you will win unless you can get tcase gears for cheap. Any old beater 4x4 pickup or bronco/blazer would do better IMO.

If you only have 700 bucks it would be really hard to do with a sammy. You might be able to get a running truck, do a spoa lift for free and find some bald tires...... but the lincoln lockers will break the shafts, you won't have ANY POWER, you won't be able to get any wheelspin and you won't be able to crawl without any gearing.

You'd be better off finding a running 1/2 ton 4x4 chevy for under 400 bucks, weld the diffs, find some 35's or 36's and cut the hell out of the fenders. At least you'll have enough power to spin the tires.....

us english guys would dream of spending that kind of money on an offroad toy some on the pro lads do but not amatuers and people just playing. like me lol:laughing:

Get it for $400
Get some 31" MTs (so you can actually turn them with the 1.3L)
Spring over (wont need a body lift; or just trim the shit out of it and put on the 31"s no lift)
Weld front and rear up
Don't forget to FLOOR IT :evil:

Weld axles, cut fenders and put 32s on. Install nitrous bottle. Lean out the carb, advance the timing, and don't bother with a WOT switch. Also, don't bother about a purge valve either just leave the bottle cracked to air itself out. I think you'll be safe with a 250 shot. Also, Before you attempt the first nitrous test, wait until your in the trap and the cameras are rolling.



Carry a fire extinguisher too:D

i just did the "trap" with my samurai about three weeks ago, i'm spooled in the rear open in the front with 513 gears and 4 to 1's in the the t case, 31 inch super swampers, and a 9000 pound warn winch, it's was an adventure spent alot of time on the windsheild frame draging down the side, and made good use of the winch

31's, sawzall, lincoln! Forget the clutch cable, start in low second. Kiss each thumb & say goodbye. Keep it on the floor & PRAY! Tank Trap in the winter is fawked! GFL :flipoff2:

31's, sawzall, lincoln! Forget the clutch cable, start in low second. Kiss each thumb & say goodbye. Keep it on the floor & PRAY! Tank Trap in the winter is fawked! GFL :flipoff2:


I think you get the general attitude :D

I just don't think 31's will do it.. I will need at LEAST 33's, or I'll just be stuck in a rut the whole time.

as for the windshield frame.. that will probably be one of the first things to come off.

apparently this sami has a 1.6 or 1.8 swapped in. Hopefully I'll get a chance to go look at it some day this week after work.


mmmmm NITROUS :D

If I end up with this sami, I'll keep this thread updated.

with some good driving 31 will work just fine i've done the trap three times in the winter

go to www.norcalbigdawgs.net jerry has video:D

mmmmm NITROUS :D

If I end up with this sami, I'll keep this thread updated.



Whatever you do don't follow my advice:eek:

I grew up in San Jose and have been up the trap several times in a couple different yotas, jeeps and a zuki. The zuki had stock gears in it and couldn't make it even though it had everything else (decent suspension, lockers and new 33" mtrs). He ended up having to winch through the rocky section 1/3 of the way up. I'd try to find a fullsize, weld the diffs, chop the fenders, find some used cheap (who cares, even rusty) 15x10's (you'll need the width to stay off the walls) with the biggest used tire you can find and have fun. Good luck to ya man, sounds like a sweet contest.

if you want to cheat a little and dont really care how long it lasts I have a 86 Samurai thats already been compleatly wadded going up and down the trap numurouse times. this samuri has a horrible motor nock but runs and has ran this way for the last 10 holister trips since ive owned it. the tranfercase has 4-1 gears and a riged chain and plate mount, its sprung over on half tread 31-12.50 thornbirds, lincon locked, and a new batery, radiator and a few other parts.
Bad news i got smart, lazy and thought i could flat tow it leaving the drivelines in. and the tranny is now stuck in 4th gear no mater where u place the shifter. SUre it needs a new tranny which im sure you could find 4 a hundred bucks or so. also seats arnt bolted in any more but they come with it
This truck has never had any problems making it up the trap or anywhere else at holister
if your interested you could have the whole thing for 250 bucks and a case of budweiser I bought a new one and could care less about my maste of a parking spot
good luck ad remember with a underbuilt tank trap beater if you let off 4 a second thats were u finish

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/member.php?u=55393
Dzuk at this link says he has 2 spare trannys

I think you should take 2big bronco up on his offer for $250 and also buy the other zuki for $400. Swap out bad for good parts and end up with one good rig proven of making it up TT. $650 with $50 bucks left over for misc stuff and few nights of wrenching.

Without the tcase gears you ain't goin nowhere. I doubt a Zuke could climb those grades with small tires (for better gearing) much less tall tires. You maybe thinking of how other 4x4s work. Put it out of your mind. The Zuke t-case simply ISN"T geared low from the factory. Maybe you could find some whacked-out axles from something that had decent low gears in em. Maybe a tractor or sumthin. :)

MAybe weld some kinda skid plate unnerneeth so it won't matter so much when ya high-center.

For $500 a guy near me has a GMC something, like a Blazer, big engine, double shocks stock on the front, big tires (purdy worn) auto tranny and not THAT bad lookin at all. Prolly a better bet.

did you end up building anything? just courious what ever happend with the 700 dollar project

my advice would be to buy the truck, put 33's on it dont bother welding the axles or anything... spend the rest of the money on the winch and just pull it through, thatll probably be the best bet.

or find someone willing to loan you a built up rig for 700 thatll get you to the top

some junk yard sidekick diffs would help turn some tires.

If you only expect this vehicle to last 30 min then this is what i would do. If you are doing rock crawling with it, then disregard the no brakes part. But if your doing the "Tank Trap" Which is big ruts and mud then follow what i have below. This will make you one hell of a good time until you break something. Oh yea your method of winning = lots of skinny pedal.

Get some 31 inch swampers
Weld the front and rear, any bigger then 31's = no steering at all if your BUFF you can brave 33's.
SPOA with no brake lines and no shocks or get some metro lines or something if you NEED brakes. Otherwise just use the ebrake.
Cut off the front bumper, and cut off alot of the fenders. Maybe even the whole rear behind the two front seats. no doors no windshield no targa bar. Loose the weight.
Bend the front steering so it fits around your springs <- homemade ghetto zlink
Run a tank full of BP race fuel.

I figure if your paying 500$ for a stock samurai, another 50$ for the spring mounts or maybe fab them?, that leaves you 150$ to find some bawled swampers. Something to pull ya through the mud. Less if you require longer brake lines. Hope you can get some good deals.

If you only expect this vehicle to last 30 min then this is what i would do. If you are doing rock crawling with it, then disregard the no brakes part. But if your doing the "Tank Trap" Which is big ruts and mud then follow what i have below. This will make you one hell of a good time until you break something. Oh yea your method of winning = lots of skinny pedal.

Get some 31 inch swampers
Weld the front and rear, any bigger then 31's = no steering at all if your BUFF you can brave 33's.
SPOA with no brake lines and no shocks or get some metro lines or something if you NEED brakes. Otherwise just use the ebrake.
Cut off the front bumper, and cut off alot of the fenders. Maybe even the whole rear behind the two front seats. no doors no windshield no targa bar. Loose the weight.
Bend the front steering so it fits around your springs <- homemade ghetto zlink
Run a tank full of BP race fuel.

I figure if your paying 500$ for a stock samurai, another 50$ for the spring mounts or maybe fab them?, that leaves you 150$ to find some bawled swampers. Something to pull ya through the mud. Less if you require longer brake lines. Hope you can get some good deals.
so u lose the windshield, targa, doors, and the brakes are u trying to tell the guy to kill himself,:shaking: metro line are very cheap at the junk yard less than 5 bucks, for 5 bucks i would really like to see this guy have brakes, tank trap is not that bad, but u don't make it up the hill the first time u need somthing to stop u from going all the way to the bottom