Why the hell can't I get a decent pedal?? I've bled and bled and bled, changed the master cylinder and bled some more. Pedal goes to the floor, but if I pump it several times it will hold pressure. LSPV?? C'mon I gotta get the rig on the road, Paragon is next week!!

Did you swap to an IFS rear end or do any rear brake work lately? Is your parking brake hooked up? If any of the above are true, manually work the e-brake lever about 30-40 times a side and see if that helps.

Do you have power brakes? If so, you might check for a vacuum hose that's cracked, loose, or pulled off. Or, you might check to see if the brake booster is going out?

McSoo: Power brakes, worked fine a month ago.

pmurf1: swapped in an '86 axle. I'm thinking the brakes are tight enough that it shouldn't be this bad, but I will try this first thing tomorrow.

Hate to ask the obivous, but you are bleeding in this order:
1. Drivers side rear
2. Passenger side rear
3. Passenger side front
4. Drivers side front
5. LSPV (Load sensing proportioning valve)

Go out and manually work the e-brake levers on the backs of the new axle. Do it about 30-40 times and that should solve your problem. Mine did the same thing when I swapped in my wider rear axle. I don't have an ebrake, so it didn't self adjust as if I'd had it. You'll know right away if that solved your problem.

Did you replace your master cylinder if so you need to bench bleed it or else you will forever have air in the lines.

Originally posted by Weelr81
Did you replace your master cylinder if so you need to bench bleed it or else you will forever have air in the lines. This is sort of right. Yes you should always bench bleed a MC but if you don't you can do it on the rig. One person inside to pump and hold the brake pedal the other under the hood with two flare wrenches to crack the front and rear brake lines open and closed to let the trapped air out.

Probably not your problem, but I just solved my brake problem. I had been consistently having the pedal go easily all the way to the floor on the first pump with little or no braking occuring. Pumps 2 through infinity were firm with good braking. If I drove a few seconds or more without braking, then the first pump would go right back to the floor.

I bought a whole set of brake stuff from www.surplusparts.com for $120 or so. New calipers, rotors, MC, rubber brake lines, and got ready to install it all. After pulling the first wheel, I noticed the bearings were really loose. Tightened the nuts on both sides, and test drove it. No more problems. Rotor was traveling so far laterally due to the sloppy bearings, it was forcing the pistons back into the calipers.

Originally posted by OPP'S
...but if you don't you can do it on the rig. One person inside to pump and hold the brake pedal the other under the hood with two flare wrenches to crack the front and rear brake lines open and closed to let the trapped air out.

This is how I've always done it.

82FB: That's a good tip but that's not what I have. Just checked the bearings and it hasn't even left the driveway.

common man is it fixed yet????

CHECK YOUR proportioning valve... i just had mine go out (1983 Yota truck) i`m just gonna bypass it til i get a willwood or somthing along those lines.... Toyota wanted 150 bucks for a Brand new Proportioning valve.. my buddy that works there could get it for 130..... So forget that i`m gonna get creative and see what i can come up with...... lemme know if that was it... It can lose pressure really easy just poke on that boot and see if fluid squirts out... mine did that :D