if you were building a rear 60 would you go full float or semi?

It depends, if I was going to go 8 lug I would go full float but if I needed to stay five or six lug to match the front then I would build a semi-floater.

Why in the hell would I ever swap in a SF? Isn't that the whole reason for swapping...to get rid of that :rainbow: SF and go FF

If I wanted to stay 6 lug (or ford 5 lug...I don't like those dinky lug patterns...) I would have the FF converted to 6 lug and keep it FF.

But then again I have a Blazer and any SF seams like a toothpic!

you can pick up a warn 60 floater kit thats all set up for 5 on 5.5 and those super indestructo-shafts!

trust me, it works great. (you don't want 8 lug wheels, thats the lazy way out... besides you're not towing boats with your trail rig)

Originally posted by WideJ
you can pick up a warn 60 floater kit thats all set up for 5 on 5.5 and those super indestructo-shafts!

trust me, it works great. (you don't want 8 lug wheels, thats the lazy way out... besides you're not towing boats with your trail rig)


why is 8 lug the lazy way out, waht do you need 5 on 5.5? what does towing a boat have to do with bolt pattern?


i myself feel i will be going full float, nice for if and when you break an axle

If you go with the Warn kit you can keep your bead locks.:D arn't they 5 on 5.5 ? and you will only need one spare tire, unless your going 8 bolt fronts. Go full floater easier to change out shafts or pull the rear shafts if you have to tow your busted rig. :rolleyes: What am I thinking you never bust anything Camo I meen BAJG. :flipoff2:

Why I want to go to a semi floating 60 is A. I have one, B. I dont want to take the time to put 8 lug shit on my front 44, and C. if I were to run 35 spline shafts how the hell would I break it with 38-39's? I will only run a 4.0 6cyl and, I belive this type of Dana 60 is the way for me to go. Full floater would be the way to go if I was to run 8 lug but then again why not go with 14 bolt. So I saved my money and finnally got some 6 lug MRT beadlocks and Im not going throught the process of trying to sell my wheels just so I can run a FF60. So this is why I would run SFrear60.:skull:

I've been mulling over the same question, badass, and the conclusion I came to is:

Virtually the only reason you would go SF is because some other factor already forces you to, whether it's wheel investment = keeping a bolt pattern or whatever.

Designing from scratch, I can't see any reason why the SF would be better, and LOTS where the FF is better

- Sooooo easy to replace shaft
- shafts carry no weight (has to be a big plus)
- if you break one and have no spare, wheel remains attached.

Hech, with FF front and rear - you could break 3 shafts and one-wheel it out :D

Only exception I could see is if you happen to fall into sometingk like the Sf J2000 60 with 1.5" 35 spline axles and the width you want. but even then, you're accepting a compromise.

real jeeps have 8 lugs:D

anyway i have run both and i prefer the ff. besides you can find a good ff in a j/yard and save lots of $$$ . if you can'r find a 35spline 60 then use a d70 or a 14bolt. you AIN'T gonna break them. just my op.:D

Originally posted by Jeepmangled87
Why I want to go to a semi floating 60 is A. I have one, B. I dont want to take the time to put 8 lug shit on my front 44

Alright, to each his own, but if you already have six lug spindles (most likely the 'large' spindles), what exactly would take a lot of time? If you have the parts this would take an hour at most.