drivelines with CV

[binderbasher]

I am hunting around for driveline idea's. I have a 1977 scout that had four inch skyjacker springs, shackles, 8" steel wheels, 35 inch bfg's. I got the bright idea to do a non-rs soa using the four inch springs. I bought 10 inch wheels with 21/2" backspace, and 37 inch mtrs. I got the shocks, steering, and springs mounted, and plan to have a local shop do the cut and turn. I am using the hidden ubolt plates with 5/8 ubolts on the front driverside, and rear. Everything looks good so far.

1) The hidden plate on the pass side does not line up with the bolts (when upside down). What is the best plate setup to use for that corner?

2) Is their any used drivelines I can shorten to save some cash? If not who can hook me up with some economical new ones (CV).

3) I noticed when I regeared and added 456 gears, and a detroit f/r my power steering is really straining. Any ideas on how to beef the power steering up.

Thanks in advance for any ideas

[Mechanos]

1) ?????????

2) Jeep Cherokee's use a yoke style 1310 CV joint on the front shaft. It's kinda short so you'd probably have to lenthen it, but it's a source for the CV.

3) Uhhhh.... hydro-assit.

[binderbasher]

any specific year or do all of them use cv?

[binderbasher]

I would like to use a hydro assist, but I blew most of my cash on tires and wheels. I would like to keep it under two hundred bucks for now. That may be on the list for later.

[Mechanos]

Don't recall off top of my head.... but they are the smaller squareish looking ones.

I bought my hydro-assist package (ram, lines, weld on tabs, bolts/nuts) for $200. Tap the box yourself.

[binderbasher]

Who makes the kit you got? I think I know were a 75-80 has been collecting dust, I will have to check it.

[Mechanos]

Rock Logic

[TheCopperCowboy]

Got House? :smokin:

[binderbound]

What are you doing for steering?you said cut and turn so I'm gonna assume your stil running stock scout knuckles.throw them away and get some chevs and run high steer.that way your not running a shitty Z link and poor steering.do a little searching,you can buy the ram alone from west Texas offroad.have napa make your lines and port the box yourself.your out the door for well under 200.

Are you auto or stick?I'm not sure if the CV fits next to an auto very well.

Search some.

[scout254]

hit up front chev 1/2ton drivelines, most are standard 1310 series cv style. Some of the K5 blazers ran a square flange on the t/c though. But yeah, some of the mid 70's fullsize jeep wagoneers also have a 1310 cv style driveline on the front . I have a Neapco u-joint book if you want me to check sizes per applications. If you see a cv shaft from a ford, i believe those are the 1330 series. Are you putting on the cv driveline off the front yoke or the rear? Still running the dana 20?

[TimGilpin]

From what i understand in order to fit a cv up front you have to grind the automatic transmission a little for clearance. I am running the same basic set up as you except full width d44's and I found a driveshaft off of what i believe to be a mid to late 70's waggoneer that was the right length (26") for the front. In order to make it work you will have to get the correct yoke for the transfer case if it is still a dana 20 then one off of an early bronco will work if the spline count is correct (that is what i used). DandC also sells them for 75$ new. For the rear i used that same cv joint from a different driveshaft and had it put on to my scout rear driveshaft by a local shop. Its not the strongest way but I hope to replace it w/ a high angle soon. I also ran high steer and it is very nice i used the bonz arms from dandc and made my own draglink and tierod out of dom tubing with 3/4 in tre's (partnumber ES150R i believe). btw The cut and turn wasnt all that bad just a lot of work.

[binderbasher]

Does anyone have pics of a scout 2 with 4 inch spring soa with hysteer. I am going back and forth between using a reinforced z link, and hysteer. If I use a hysteer it seems like the drag link will be really close to the passenger side spring.

[chris408]

Get a big steering fluid cooler, change the rag joint to a borgeson, up the boost on your box http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html

[binderbasher]

I already have a borg/ joint (complete shaft). Are the agr pumps any good?

[TimGilpin]

I had to have my bonz high steer arms bent up 15 degrees with that there is plenty of clearance for everything Binderbasher I have some pics of mine with the high steer installed that I will e-mail you.

[binderbasher]

Thanks for the pics dude. I think the hysteer is the way to go. Are the tie rod and drag link factory length or custom?

[RustoleumWhite]

I would think that with 4" springs on top of SOA you would have a HUGE z-link to go back down to the stock knuckle mount.


Even with high-steer arms and a small spacer the draglink isn't going to be parallel to the ground, so depending on the clearances you need you may still end up with a small "Z" in the draglink.


Plan on all custom. There are enough parts and manufactures out there now there it should be no problem.

[TimGilpin]

Mine are custom because the axles are full width IH D44s BTW my high steer also has one inch spacers under the arms so plan for longer studs and stuff. The other thing to consider i guess could be a drop pitman arm from super lift i had one while running just 4in springs but to be honest i didnt like it because it ruined turning radius.

[binderbasher]

I think for now I am going to use one of D&C's fattie z draglinks. I will probably have to live with some bump steer for a while. But if it works good then I can't complain. I will know in about a week what I am in for. I also talked to damien about the steering deal. Looks like the future wishlist will be a ported pump, steering box and rock ram. I have been working a crap load of overtime, so I may not be waiting long. I tried a pitman arm once, and found the same. Hopefully the z link wont be bad, and I can go onto better things.:rolleyes: We shall see. I am gonna have to figure out how to do pictures.

[RustoleumWhite]

That's going to be one hell of a Z-link.. figure almost 8-10" of drop.


Hell ya your going to have bump steer.... Hope your caster is good.... very good and you don't get much brake dive when you stab the brakes hard.


Do atleast one high-steer arm and move the draglink up, ifyou get a (standard) short arm, you can probably find a dropped style of pitman arm (there was recent talk of a Superlift arm) that will complement it well and get the draglink much flatter.

With your lift springs you should be able to get away with a dropped pitman arm, its the "flat spring" SOA guys that need the "flat" (i.e. waggy) steering arms.

Get your steering geometry right, then look into Hydro Assist.

[binderbasher]

I have the front end pinion angle set at around 16 deg, and the castor set at 6 deg. That should be a lot better then the 0, and 0 like it was. I am going to order the link tommorow, damien said he uses the same link for stock soa-through 4 inch lift soa. I will try it and make adjustments as necessary. If it feels too high or handles crappy I will get two inch ranchos. Hopefully it will be driveable when I get it all together. I may have to still trim, to get the 37's to not rub on the rear, I dont like bumpstops. Like you say hopefully my face wont look like this :eek: :barf: when I lock up the brakes for some chick on a cell phone.

[TimGilpin]

Just my 2 cents but my front pinion is set at 23 degrees with castor at 6 degrees and it seems to be alot closer than i would think 16 is.

[uglyscout]

[QUOTE=binderbasher]I have the front end pinion angle set at around 16 deg, and the castor set at 6 deg. That should be a lot better then the 0, and 0 like it was. QUOTE]

Did you take these measurements with the axle 'bolted up' or on the floor with the perches set at 0 deg. ?

Things will change when you bolt it up...

[binderbasher]

The reason I chose the 16-18 deg angle is because I don't want any oiling issues. I have not finalized (tack weld for now) everything yet. I ordered a heavy drag link and new spring perchs from D&C today. The perchs I have are crap. I have everything bolted in and those are the final angles. I will replace the old perchs with the new ones, and repeat the above.

After I replace the spring perchs and am happy with the angles, I am going to take it to the local 4x4 shop, and have the knuckles cut and turned ,with a final 6 deg. I am going to order the rear cv shaft from D&C as well, probably in two weeks. That will give me the time to finish up everything else.