Ive always wondered if somebody could re-drill their centering pin holes on their leaf springs to relocate their axles. I know its possible, but what about the existing holes? Wouldnt that part become weak and be prone to bending and breaking? It would seem like the reason they dont bend and break factory is because the u-bolt plate and spring perch is clamping it keeping it from bending in that area. So, what do you guys think?

I think that is one of the dumbest things to do. As much stress and flexing out springs go through. Not a good idea!

I redrilled the center holes on my flatfender. Moved the rear axle back about an inch. It's not good for axle wrap but I have had no problems with breakage.
~matt

Yeah, I was kinda doubting it, but I wasnt sure. I figured it would be a really bad idea on a narrow leaf spring, but I wasnt sure where I had 2.5" wide springs.

I just thought I would ask, but I guess its better to be safe than be "that guy".

I have redrilled 6 pair of springs for a buddie that builds Sammy's.
None have broken yet.

i have redrilled 3 pair of springs.......all broke at the origanal hole. = bad voodoo

don't do it is my opinion.
drill a new hole in the pearch and move the mounting location that way

whats the reason for redrilling springs? seems youll get the same effect as moving the perches, just changes the angel no? i know it would move the axel. if you really wanna move the axel why not just move the brackets on the frame? please clear this up for me cuz it just seems like a pointless job to me

moving the mounts on the frame is a lot of work, and could easily be out of the skillset someone has. I went through it recently, and if all I had to do was redrill the springs without ill effects, I'd have done that. I know a guy who recently did it on his CJ5 to see how things would all fit together and how he would like the wheelbase...he had plans to link it as soon as he decided whether or not he wanted to do it, and had a ton of random leafs....so he wasn't worried about destroying a set. he went through a ton of bits, hss, cobalt, ti coated...seemed to have quite a bit of trouble.

dont they make plates that have several holes to relocate an axle front to back, i still dont like them but its better than drilling out your springs, jason.

I have done this twice with no problem except for killing drill bits.

:shaking:

The reason I was even considering it is because Ive set a deadline to have this rig 4-wheelin, and the other alternative may set me late of this deadline. However, I would rather be late on my deadline than late getting home...

And the drill bit part isnt too appealing either...

dont they make plates that have several holes to relocate an axle front to back, i still dont like them but its better than drilling out your springs, jason.

Do you know who sells these? I saw them several months ago but I don't know where.

Do you know who sells these? I saw them several months ago but I don't know where.

http://mountainoffroad.com/more.htm It's under the axle mounting hardware section.

drill the perches

Apart from clearance and drive shaft length, what else needs to be addressed to do this?

www.offroaddesign.com Zero Rates (http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero%20Rates.htm)
http://www.offroaddesign.com/images/Offset%20Zero%20Rate%201.JPG

i got a set of those ORD ones, very cool product pushed mine 1.5 inches up just my .02 and its like 55 shipped

One more vote for the zero rates. I did a shackle flip on my Bronco, which moved the axle 1" foward. I used an offset zero rate 1" block to move it back to it's original location. Works like a champ. The ORD ones are very good, but these are definitely easy enough to make yourself.