Okay, my bud made me a great offer- a Jasper roller cam 5.0 w/less than 1200 mi on it out of his wife's '91 Crown Vic, along with the AOD, computer & wiring harness for $950.

This seems like a sweet deal to me, but my question is what y'all think of the AOD tranny? I'd prefer a 5-spd, but no $ for a NV4500 & I need the overdrive, 'cos of my 4.56s & the fact that the '95 is my DD. Is this tranny stout enough when used off-road?

To me, it just seems easier & cheaper to use the tranny that came with the motor, unless the AOD won't take trail abuse.

Lemme know what y'all think. I'd love to be able to pull the trigger on this & build myself a Feep.

The AOD is a good tranny, not the best for for the money you'll invest it's a good deal.

Not a bad price for the combo, just make sure you get every last piece you can from him. I've seen totaled Mustangs go for $1500-$500 so make sure the engine is good before you let you cash go.

i like mine in my truck and would put one in the jeep as well if i could. i have put mine through some shit too. it has yet to fail me, however last time i said that about something on my truck it went south....

Cool, this swap is looking more & more like a GO.

From what I'm finding, it looks like I'll be able to keep my 231 & should only need the AA AOD to 231 adapter & switch to the 'flush' 23 spline input for the X-case. Does this sound about right, or am I WAY off base here?

Any recommendations for beefing the AOD? It could probably stand to be freshened up & it'll be easier to tinker with it while it's out. I've heard about different valve bodies, but otherwise don't know a lot about this tranny.

H8Monday? Sillyneck? Anyone?

Dammit, not as simple as it appeared at first glance. Don't have to change the input on the X-case- hafta change the output shaft on the tranny. And from what I can find out, that's a complete teardown of the tranny. 'Course, that would be a good time to drop in a different valve body & freshen up the tranny. Dammit! $, $, $!

WTF is with Advance Adapters pricing? YOUCH! Is it hand carved from gold billet or something? $650 for the AOD to 231 adapter! :mad: It includes the necessary output shaft, but GAYZUS!

Don't mean to be a tightwad, but I'm trying to do this as cheaply as possible & the damn AA parts & motor mounts are gonna double the cost as it is.

How tough/intricate are AODs? I'm a competent, tho not great, mechanic. Would swapping output shafts, installing new valve body & a general freshening up be doable by the average Joe? Or am I better off, sucking it up & paying someone to do it?

My bud that's selling me the motor/tranny is a great mechanic & is just dying to help me stuff a 5.0 in my junk, so we oughtta be able to do everything short of running the exhaust- no welder or tubing bender. Just looking for any tips or tricks that'd make this easier & possibly less expensive. Thanx.

That is the same swap I did in my Wrangler I really like the AOD for RockCrawling And the overdrive is nice on the highway I am running 5.38 gears and it seems to be perfect with 36's. I purchased my adapter from Advanced Adapters it was expensive and it didnt look like much when i got it but, I paid a mechanic buddy of mine to put the adapter in and to get a a new torque converter. As far as motor mounts I used AA And they SUCK I have sheared off a total of 7 bolts into the block. I just dont think the support is there. going to have to support that motor a little beter i think. Anyways hope this helped and good luck on the swap definetly the best thing I have ever done!!

Yeah, I remember you saying something about AA's motor mounts being crap. I know Novak makes em & the price ain't too bad. Talked to M.O.R.E, but they don't do Ford 'mounts, just Chevy.

Can't wait to get this process started. Hopefully my bud & I can do the tranny ourselves. I know he can build motors like noone's business, just not sure how smart he is on trannies.

Here is what I did for my 5.0L motor mounts in a CJ

http://www.addingcolor.org/features/cars/mr_n/YellowMotorMountII.jpg

http://www.addingcolor.org/features/cars/mr_n/YellowMotorMountIII.jpg

nice motor mounts gives me some ideas for strengthening mine

Originally posted by Mr.N
Here is what I did for my 5.0L motor mounts in a CJ

http://www.addingcolor.org/features/cars/mr_n/YellowMotorMountII.jpg

http://www.addingcolor.org/features/cars/mr_n/YellowMotorMountIII.jpg

Mr N,
I like your mounts, I modified a set of MORE CJ 5.0 mounts. They are nearly identical at the bushing portion of the mount.
I would suggest just from my own experience, that you run a removeable cross member from side to side, at the engine mount brackets. It looks like you are a quite competent fabricator so it will be an easy modification. Frame rails take a hell of a lot of stress anyway at the engine mount area. The "captive mounting" design of the Round bushings that you and I are using, is a good design, because even if the bushings fail, the bolts will retain the engine,...but the mounts also generate more outward pressure, because there is nothing restricting them from wanting to rotate outward, from the downward pressure, (except for the frame rails). A crossmember at the joints locks the frame rails in tight so that the engine cant flex up and down as the frame rails are forced in and out.
Just my $.02

i had the AA small block ford mounts when i put the old 351w in my jeep years ago. i had a problem breaking eng mount bolts too. plus right before i pulled that motor i actually broke one of the threaded bungs off of the side of the block. definately don't run the aa mounts!

Another set of hand-fabbed 5.0 mount brackets. Mine use the factory HO captive rubber pad mounts, which came with the engine.

http://www.bc4x4.com/chrisw/projects/frameswap/mmnt5.jpg

Chris

I am in the middle of swapping in a 5.0 HO with a AOD tranny into my TJ. I decided to hook it up to a dana 20 t-case out of an old Bronco. I just didn't see the np231 holding up to a V8. Plus it's quite a bit shorter than the stock 231 and is cast iron, with a good gear ratio. I figred if I was investing in the AA adaptor, I should upgrade (with-in reason$$) the t-case to. I also found a place called "TCS" that sells a custom low stall torque converter for towing/off-roading $175.00. TransGo Performance sells a performance shift-kit for $123.00 that basically converts the valve body to "tip-tronic" shifting. The shift kit looks very easy to install, but I did have a professional install the new AA out-put shaft. This combined with the d44 and 9" axles means, basically I will be driving around in a Ford disguised as a Jeep!

Good luck with the swap!

TBone:)

H8monday,

Thanks for the complement. I like your idea, the reaso I din't do that as I thought it wouldn't need it. However have your Testimonial I think I'll look into it. Should be easy enought to do, infact I'm going to make another pair to move the engine up and back an 1".

Originally posted by H8monday


Mr N,
I like your mounts, I modified a set of MORE CJ 5.0 mounts. They are nearly identical at the bushing portion of the mount.
I would suggest just from my own experience, that you run a removeable cross member from side to side, at the engine mount brackets. It looks like you are a quite competent fabricator so it will be an easy modification. Frame rails take a hell of a lot of stress anyway at the engine mount area. The "captive mounting" design of the Round bushings that you and I are using, is a good design, because even if the bushings fail, the bolts will retain the engine,...but the mounts also generate more outward pressure, because there is nothing restricting them from wanting to rotate outward, from the downward pressure, (except for the frame rails). A crossmember at the joints locks the frame rails in tight so that the engine cant flex up and down as the frame rails are forced in and out.
Just my $.02