: Broken Pitman Arm????
NorcalVP 03-30-2002, 06:23 PM Down wheelin at hollister today when my spotter got me into a little mess, wheels turned all the way to the right, wedged into a rut (both of them) trying to back out i hear BAM!!! and the steering wheel goes limp. Get out to assess the damage and the Circle part of the IFS pitman arm was broken in two
O -> C
I had the FROR insert welded in and that stayed intact but, the pitman arm itself broke.
Now i am on a quest for another one, but i would like to run something with a little less bend in it, Where can i buy something a little stouter?
Note: If that guy with the Yellow TJ is frequent on this board, THANKS!!! if it weren't for you my rig would still be up on those rock... "Note to self ON BOARD WELDERS ROCK, MUST GET ONE"
v6toy4x 03-30-2002, 06:29 PM hey no help on a flatter pitman arm i just noticed you live in union city cool!!!!!!!!
I believe that the tougher option is to get a sleeved pitman arm. AllPro calls it a "fabricated" pitman arm I believe as compared to their modified stock...
I just looked at the piicture though and youll have to decide for yourself if the part you are refering to is beefier. Kinda looks that way...
Here is what it looks like...
I have a used stock IFS pitman arm I can let go for a couple $$$ - just let me know of you need it...
I have built some like the ones All Pro used for their hem joint steering kits - IMHO much beefier than the stock ones with inserts, and they could be made to use normal tie rod ends too with a little bit O change...
John H 03-30-2002, 06:54 PM I've never seen a pitman arm brake. You may have weakend it when the insert was welded in. The pitman arm that TyTy is showing is for rod end type steering. Not to good for the street but is awesome for the trail. I have a spare pitman arm if you are intrested. It came with my hy-steer kit from All-pro.
NorcalVP 03-30-2002, 07:27 PM THANKS for the offer for the pitman arms. Do Either of you guys have the insert welded in? if so i'd love to get it from you.
Also are their any tricks to getting the old one off??? we musta tried for about 2 hours to get that damn thing off, but it wouldn't budge... So we just welded the entire thing together. (now i got to get a new Drag link end too...)
John H 03-30-2002, 07:31 PM Mine came from my All-pro Hy-steer. It has the insert welded in it. TRE on the bottom.
NorcalVP 03-30-2002, 07:33 PM the insert for chevy TRE? if that's the case i'd love to pick the up from you.... When can i come and pick it up?? how much do you want for it???
John H 03-30-2002, 07:35 PM No it's for FJ80 TRE's. I also have a stock pitman that you can weld the insert yourself.
NorcalVP 03-30-2002, 07:38 PM How much do you want for it?
John H 03-30-2002, 07:39 PM You can have it if you come pick it up.
SeaBass44 03-30-2002, 07:40 PM Originally posted by John H
I've never seen a pitman arm brake. You may have weakend it when the insert was welded in. The pitman arm that TyTy is showing is for rod end type steering. Not to good for the street but is awesome for the trail. I have a spare pitman arm if you are intrested. It came with my hy-steer kit from All-pro.
That's the 2nd one I've seen on POR !
NorcalVP 03-30-2002, 07:58 PM AWESOME!!!!! E-Mail me and i will arrange to come and pick it up.. what type of :beer: do you like??
John H 03-30-2002, 08:25 PM E-mailed you. Sierra Nevada:beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:
OOP'S 03-30-2002, 09:20 PM Do you guys know what the PM at the bottom means "Private Message" Use it!!!!!:D
Mr. Bastard 03-31-2002, 05:26 AM Originally posted by NorcalVP
Also are their any tricks to getting the old one off???
I saw your pics on TTORA...When you get the pitman arm puller on there...tighten it up as much as you can then wack the head of the bolt of the puller with a BFH...POP! Should come free.... ;)
Bones 03-31-2002, 06:31 AM Originally posted by FlatTaco
I saw your pics on TTORA...When you get the pitman arm puller on there...tighten it up as much as you can then wack the head of the bolt of the puller with a BFH...POP! Should come free.... ;)
Yeah, After I nearly destroyed two pullers :eek: :D
toyboy2494 03-31-2002, 09:41 AM try tightening the puller and hit the pitman arm HARD then keep tightening more and eventullay it will pop off. sometimes it takes a while !:D
Mr. Bastard 03-31-2002, 10:43 AM Originally posted by Bones
Yeah, After I nearly destroyed two pullers :eek: :D
Ahem...and one of em was mine... :rolleyes: :flipoff2:
pmurf1 03-31-2002, 12:44 PM I had to use a large industrial bearing puller from Grainger on mine. Work paid for it since we use it to pull large bearings and shafts from big swamp coolers which are always rusted together. It has like 5/8" hardened bolts and a beefy puller section, but I still had to heat the arm up with a torch and pound on it to get it off.
v6toy4x 03-31-2002, 12:52 PM Originally posted by Bones
Yeah, After I nearly destroyed two pullers :eek: :D
go to napa and buy a posi lok puller it will pull anything--it has an outer ring that tightens around the fingers so nothing flexes or comes off they are awsome--but a little pricey $165
SeaBass44 03-31-2002, 01:01 PM Originally posted by v6toy4x
go to napa and buy a posi lok puller it will pull anything--it has an outer ring that tightens around the fingers so nothing flexes or comes off they are awsome--but a little pricey $165
A real tools costs real $$$:rolleyes: don't bitch when your toy tool breaks.....
4wd Wolf 03-31-2002, 06:08 PM Hey there,
NorcalVP- I hope you don't mind, but I was there and snapped some shots.
http://www.wolfstoy.com/wolftoy/pictures/Hollister/Hol-Taco01.jpg
http://www.wolfstoy.com/wolftoy/pictures/Hollister/Hol-Taco-Broken%20Arm.jpg
mkrzys 03-31-2002, 08:57 PM Give AOR4x4.com a call. They have a new pitman arm available that is pretty tuff. Good luck.
ErikB 04-01-2002, 09:47 AM Originally posted by SeaBass44
That's the 2nd one I've seen on POR !
Yep, and both of them were welded. I believe the other one was done by Foothill Offroad.
Why weld the insert in? It cant go anywhere (nut on one side and lip and TRE on the other). I'd think welding (esp. improperly welded) could/would weaken it. I don't think FRORFab recommends welding them...?
Another thing- are you using the GM "drag link" ends? The ones w/ more angle? The tie rod ends could bind pretty easily and snap that pitman...
(looks like the DL end in the pic, just checking though)
SeaBass44 04-01-2002, 09:52 AM Originally posted by ErikB
Yep, and both of them were welded. I believe the other one was done by Foothill Offroad.
Why weld the insert in? It cant go anywhere (nut on one side and lip and TRE on the other). I'd think welding (esp. improperly welded) could/would weaken it. I don't think FRORFab recommends welding them...?
ya I was wondering that to...
TNToy 04-01-2002, 10:03 AM Originally posted by ErikB
Ayou using the GM "drag link" ends? The ones w/ more angle? The tie rod ends could bind pretty easily and snap that pitman...
(looks like the DL end in the pic, just checking though) I dunno about that, Eric... the tierod ends used in the steering stuff I got from kongs have quite a bit of misalignment to them. You'd have to have about 3 FEET of front travel to start bidning those things up... I'm at 22" of front flex right now, and the steering only seems to move about 10 degrees, really.
Shaker 04-01-2002, 10:05 AM OTT makes a pitman arm that has less of an angle in it. Friend ofmine got one I think it was $100 or so. It looked nice....hey what floats your boat right guys.......Good Luck.....:beer: :beer:
paniolo 04-01-2002, 12:34 PM Originally posted by ErikB
Why weld the insert in? It cant go anywhere (nut on one side and lip and TRE on the other). I'd think welding (esp. improperly welded) could/would weaken it. I don't think FRORFab recommends welding them...?
Eric, I'm with you I don't see why the insert needs to be welded?? The bottom lip is where all the stress goes through.
Didn't Chris G mention a while back that All-Pro had seen some variations in the IFS pitman arms and therefore they didn't think a mass produced insert would properly fit all the arms?
ErikB 04-01-2002, 02:19 PM Well I know the FRORFab inserts don't fit if the pitman isn't OEM Toyota... but that's the extent of my knowledge. :emb4:
FWIW, I figure the pitman is the weak link in my steering setup, so I plan on carrying a spare... if I ever get around to it. :rolleyes:
As for TRE/DLE angles, I really don't have a good idea. I know Scott @ Rockstomper had done a little research and found that the GM DLE's had the most misalignment... so that's what he recommended, and that's what I used.
On a 44, if the steering arm isn't machined/bent to level, that end is already at a 10* disadvantage because of the king pin (steering axis) inclination angle, so that one can run out of angle real quick...
Not sure if its a problem w/ the pitman end or not, but its a place to look for problems if you are not sure. If there was binding, it would definitely be bad news!
Shaker 04-01-2002, 03:17 PM I know for a fact that there are 3 different type of Pitman arms "after" the stock Toyota TRE is taken out. The "newer" arms have a "taper" built into the casting that is a PITA to do. Really not worth even messing with. If he's worried about the steering "binding" he can always use 2 ES2027L on the "draglink" ends they have the "highest" angularity to them. Not practical but he won't have any "binding" going on. I'll be making arms here soon to "swap" out with the stock kind. If I ever get time to duplicate my "prototype" arm. Back to my Dungeon I go........Later guys..... :beer: :( :p
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