Went out and piced up a 14 bolt for $60 bones today. Need to know that when doing the disc conversion if i need the part outlined in pink in the first pic or do i just use the part outlined in pink in the second pic. Thanks. Also would like some close ups of disc conversions. Did a search and found a few but would like to see the actual disc up close.

second pic

You will put the disc on where the drum was originally. (As shown in the first pic.) Press out the studs, put the disc on, and press the studs back in to hold the rotor. Don't have any pics of when I did mine. If you need brackets, you might check w/Shaker. His are great, and reasonably priced.

Go to alaskaoffroad.com (http://www.alaskaoffroad.com/axle_tech.htm) for some pics:usa:

http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v0/4/91/82/31049182xoboXbDzJn_ph

http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v0/8/5/3/31180503eOvEukFItF_ph

http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v0/8/5/36/31180536lIiewIHeiU_ph

$60? :D :D I got some disc brackets for ya too....:flipoff2:

Is there any reason this can't be done on a D60?

Works the same on a 60. Just cut the stock caliper support and weld it on. I did have to grid the tapper off the base of the lugs.

If your also looking for brackets, check this out.
Caliper brackets for about 10 bucks and lots of other brackets for less then it would cost to make yourself(if you value your time as much as i do).

http://www.aa-mfg.com/

Originally posted by Gozuki
$60? :D :D I got some disc brackets for ya too....:flipoff2:

Took me and a buddy 45 min to pull and the lady was stupid i guess. Guy across the street wanted $275 - $350 for the same damn thing. Thanks for all the info guys. From the looks of the finished pics i press the studs into the rotor and end up more like pic two then pic one.

Originally posted by PYRO
If your also looking for brackets, check this out.
Caliper brackets for about 10 bucks and lots of other brackets for less then it would cost to make yourself(if you value your time as much as i do).

http://www.aa-mfg.com/

Thanks pyro, would you happen to know the model number i need. They have a lot of caliper brackets. I'm gonna use 3/4 ton gm calipers and i would like to get the weld on brackets. Thanks.

I did have to grid the tapper off the base of the lugs.

What?? I'm just curious...when you do something like this...what occurs in your brain? What do you imagine they were tapered for? Do you think to yourself....stupid engineers always designing and using inteference fits where they're clearly not required....or do you not think about it at all, or ...????

Honestly, I'm really curious.

i hope the pic's you posted are from two different rears. one side is from a standard 14bolt and the other is a cab and chassis hub.

Originally posted by BillaVista


What?? I'm just curious...when you do something like this...what occurs in your brain? Honestly, I'm really curious.


I'm wondering the same thing:smokin:

Originally posted by Brawler


Thanks pyro, would you happen to know the model number i need. They have a lot of caliper brackets. I'm gonna use 3/4 ton gm calipers and i would like to get the weld on brackets. Thanks.

AA-049-A is for the large GM calipers. I just used std front brackets cut down because I had them. Keep in mind, that in order to space the caliper out far enough for a 3/4ton rotor, you will either need to weld another plate on the bracket or fill a small gap with weld at the top of the bracket. Search for brakes pics in the Jeep section. H8monday, used the AA ones on a duallie 14 bolt. O-yeah, mine is a duallie one also.

Originally posted by BillaVista


What?? I'm just curious...when you do something like this...what occurs in your brain? What do you imagine they were tapered for? Do you think to yourself....stupid engineers always designing and using inteference fits where they're clearly not required....or do you not think about it at all, or ...????

Honestly, I'm really curious.

Actually on one of the 14 bolt disc conversions I did, I used 3/4 ton chev front rotors and the 'head' of the 14 bolt wheel studs would not seat fully in the factory counterbore on the rotors.. so I chucked the wheelstuds in my lathe and put an extra chamfer on the head

maybe this is what he is saying?...........

Originally posted by high5
i hope the pic's you posted are from two different rears. one side is from a standard 14bolt and the other is a cab and chassis hub.

No, they are from the same rear end. They came off of a gmc van. I thought that the two sides looked different. Do i have a problem???????

Maybe that is why it was $60.:D

I'd look for another hub that has the drum already pressed on. I have not seen any like the one where the drum slips over the hub. Check them out to see if they measure the same. Might just have to go with different wheel studs. Good luck.

Originally posted by rodzzilla
Maybe that is why it was $60.:D

I'd look for another hub that has the drum already pressed on. I have not seen any like the one where the drum slips over the hub. Check them out to see if they measure the same. Might just have to go with different wheel studs. Good luck.

Damnit, i can never get a break. Pulled both axle shafts and they are different lengths ( i thought they were supposed to be the same ). So am i fawked if i want to do disk brakes?

Ok so it looks like someone in the past must have changed hubs right? Seems that the pics i have found of disc conversions all have the hub in my second pic. Is it real hard to change this hub?

No, the axle shafts SHOULDN'T be the same.

The hubs are interchangeable (both will fit on the spindles), the brake backing plate mount should not be in the right spot on one side.

If you put two of the deeper offset WMS ones (second pic) ones on the housing, your WMS to WMS will be 63", if you use two of the others, you will be at 67".

Also, the "newer" ones use hubs that allow the drums to be taken off without pressing the studs (outboard drums).

It's easy to pull the hubs.

Originally posted by Charly
No, the axle shafts SHOULDN'T be the same.

The hubs are interchangeable (both will fit on the spindles), the brake backing plate mount should not be in the right spot on one side.

If you put two of the deeper offset WMS ones (second pic) ones on the housing, your WMS to WMS will be 63", if you use two of the others, you will be at 67".

Also, the "newer" ones use hubs that allow the drums to be taken off without pressing the studs (outboard drums).

It's easy to pull the hubs.

Well that is good news i guess. What does this mean:

"the brake backing plate mount should not be in the right spot on one side."

Do you know where i can get another hub like the one in the second pic? Seems these would be easier to work with. Thanks for all the info. Want to get this right the first time so i don't have to fuck with it anymore.

It would probably be easier to find a matching hub to the first one. I have seen more like that one on the older 14's.

This is Shaker's stuff on my roommate's 14 bolt...

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/johaines/14bolt%20Disc%20Conversion/

He was very pleased with the kit and the price...

What that means is that the other difference between the c & c hubs (second pic) and the full width hubs (first pic) is that the brake backing plate mount (square steel plate that has 4 holes...the brake backing plate mounts to it.....is in different locations along the tube when comparing the full width housing and the c & c housing. What may make one useable with the other is the fact that one mounts the drums inboard, the other is outboard.

And I agree, if 67" WMS to WMS is OK with you, they will be easier to find.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1816550244&r=0&t=0

You will probably have better luck searching locally, but they are out there to be had.

:beer:

Thanks to everyone for the help and info. I think i will go with the hub in the first pic. More out there and the disc pics i saw looked great. Besides, wider kicks ass. After removing all the crap from inside the hub does the hub come off or is there a trick?

Went and got the right hub today for 12 bucks from pick a part. Big difference.

one more.

Originally posted by Brawler
Went and got the right hub today for 12 bucks from pick a part. Big difference.
By the looks of the hubs in the picture, the standard 67" wide and Duallie 63" wide 14 bolt use the same length axles?

Originally posted by Scouter

By the looks of the hubs in the picture, the standard 67" wide and Duallie 63" wide 14 bolt use the same length axles?

I think the wms is the only difference on these axles. The axle lengths should be the same.

Same shafts, different hubs but only the mounting surface.

Originally posted by Scouter

By the looks of the hubs in the picture, the standard 67" wide and Duallie 63" wide 14 bolt use the same length axles?

Bingo...Only difference is the hubs, drums, & location of the backing plates. (this is the ones that I have seen...not sure if it applys to all)

While i've got yall looking, can i just pound the studs out of the hub and buy new ones cheap. I'm refering to the bolts the tire mounts to.

Originally posted by Brawler
While i've got yall looking, can i just pound the studs out of the hub and buy new ones cheap. I'm refering to the bolts the tire mounts to.

I'd reuse them if you can...BTW, I used 3/4ton rotors from a 75 Chevy. They fit perfectly and I go the cool slots cut out:rolleyes:

Originally posted by CRO


Actually on one of the 14 bolt disc conversions I did, I used 3/4 ton chev front rotors and the 'head' of the 14 bolt wheel studs would not seat fully in the factory counterbore on the rotors.. so I chucked the wheelstuds in my lathe and put an extra chamfer on the head

maybe this is what he is saying?...........


That what i was talking about.

Originally posted by Scout Dude


I used 3/4ton rotors from a 75 Chevy. They fit perfectly and I go the cool slots cut out:rolleyes:


Anything to make that scout more visually appealing :flipoff2:

Originally posted by The Rockslut



Anything to make that scout more visually appealing :flipoff2:


I need all the help I can get:D :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Scout Dude


I'd reuse them if you can...BTW, I used 3/4ton rotors from a 75 Chevy. They fit perfectly and I go the cool slots cut out:rolleyes:

Didn't know they could be re-used. Think i'll just thread a nut on and hammer it out to keep the threads from getting all chingered up.

DUDES how do you remove the hub. I tried and it looked like there was a weird bolt with small holes in it, but I couldn't find a tool for it. Am I stupid (which may not even be related to this problem) or what??

Also who can get me in touch with shaker, I didn't know he had all the stuff in KIT form now. That's sweet!:beer:

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
DUDES how do you remove the hub. I tried and it looked like there was a weird bolt with small holes in it, but I couldn't find a tool for it. Am I stupid (which may not even be related to this problem) or what??

Also who can get me in touch with shaker, I didn't know he had all the stuff in KIT form now. That's sweet!:beer:

Step one: pull the axle ( assuming you have a ff 14bolt)
step two: bend tab down on star washer thing so you can remove the first nut ( use a punch, it should come off easy)
Step three: Remove second nut ( identical to first nut )
Step four: Bang on drum to remove entire assembly from spindle.
Step five: Pound out bolts with BFH and hub seperates from drum.

Thanks Brawler, I'll take a look again sometime.

Anyone with Shakers info?? I guess I'll try a search.

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
DUDES how do you remove the hub. I tried and it looked like there was a weird bolt with small holes in it, but I couldn't find a tool for it. Am I stupid (which may not even be related to this problem) or what??

Also who can get me in touch with shaker, I didn't know he had all the stuff in KIT form now. That's sweet!:beer:

You could have the other style too. It has one nut and a locking clip. The nut has circular slots in it. Napa carries the socket. BTW, most everybody (that I know of) makes the disk bracket kit for the full-width 14 bolts...not the dually ones. You can see how far the new caliper bracket is from the old backing plate mount in the pics that I posted earlier. This would require about a 3 inch spacer to work with the kits.

I have pics of disc conversions done on two different style hubs.

Pic one:

Pic two:

Yep..full-width vs dually..The top one is H8's...same set up as me except that I used 1/2 caliper brackets instead of the AA ones.

Who sells the kit for a full width 14 Bolt where the bracket bolts up to the factory backing plate?

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
DUDES

Also who can get me in touch with shaker, I didn't know he had all the stuff in KIT form now. That's sweet!:beer:

www.Shakerbuilt.com

Originally posted by bigdude
Who sells the kit for a full width 14 Bolt where the bracket bolts up to the factory backing plate?

Shaker among others. Just pimpin for the guys on the board.

:D :D

:beer:

If you can find studs for less than $3 ea I would be supprised.