I would like to hear from the people who have swapped out there D30/35 TJ axles for the Rubicon D44 axles and why they went this route.

What were some of the issues (if any) encountered. What modifications were needed to make the swap or any new parts that had to be purchased. Did you increase tire size. How do the new axle work? Are you happy with them or do you wish you went a different way? Did you have problems hooking up the air pumps or drive shafts?

The reason for this thread is that I have a set of Rubicon D44 axles with 4.88 gears installed in the garage ready for the swap but I'm still debating whether I want to go this route. Some advice on the install, drivability and outcome would be appreciated.

I did it because I found a deal on a set with 4.88s. This saved me from having to hunt down axles, bracket kits, gears, lockers, and someone to setup the gears and weld on the brackets (cant do gears or weld). It was bolt in and go for the most part.

I dont plan to go over 35s with this Jeep so these axles will work out just fine. I put a set of USA Alloys in the front and will upgrade the rears when I break them. It gave me the selectable lockers, gearing and rear disks I wanted. After talking to a couple of local guys my price per axle is about what they paid or less for comparable axles (rears at least)

I dont recall having run into any issues. You will need both your driveshafts shortened and will need a 1310/1330 combo u-joint (spicer #5-134X) on the axle end.

The pumps are easy to hook up. Well mine were anyway. I had already ditched the 231 for a flipped/geared D300 so I didnt need to bother hooking the lockers into the t-case. I put them under the hood on the drivers side tray. Clip the plugs off and run red to power and black to ground. I put in an aircraft style toggle switch as the master power and then to rocker switches for the lockers. That way I cant turn the lockers on while driving down the road.

They really are just bolt in and wire up.

Thanks Frostytj,

-I don't have a NP241 so I don't have to worry about hooking it into the T-case. I will run just as you mentioned.
-As for the 1310/1330 combo unit: I was going to switch the 1330 for a 1310. Little weaker but better angle. Iv'e about 7" of lift.
-Did you go to heavy duty U-joints in the front when you went to the alloy's?
-What is the backspacing on your rims?

Thanks Frostytj,

-I don't have a NP241 so I don't have to worry about hooking it into the T-case. I will run just as you mentioned.
-As for the 1310/1330 combo unit: I was going to switch the 1330 for a 1310. Little weaker but better angle. Iv'e about 7" of lift.
-Did you go to heavy duty U-joints in the front when you went to the alloy's?
-What is the backspacing on your rims?